RE: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Paint able to stand up to 500 degrees

 

I’m going to have to do one this summer.  The DPO used some fairly heavy grit sandpaper on the 300SD presumably to deal with flaking clearcoat.  A Scheib is in my new future.  But plan to do most of the prep myself.

 

Ben near Detroit

 


From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BStromsoe
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2011 10:46 PM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Paint able to stand up to 500 degrees

 

 

Youse guys are getting me ansy to paint.

 

brian from la verne, ca

 

 


From: Alan Boucher <alstheone@verizon.net>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, January 21, 2011 7:21:22 PM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Paint able to stand up to 500 degrees

 

On 1/21/2011 9:14 PM, Mark in Lakewood CO wrote:

 

In 1985,  I completely tore down to nuts and bolts a 1966 Plymouth Sport Fury convertible, and shot it with Sherwin Williams Sunfire, a two-component, single-stage urethane.  The paint still looks great.  Two years later, I used the same product on a 1973 SAAB Sonett III, and that paint still looks good, too.  Then, I did a number of cars using PPG Deltron/Delthane, a two-component, two-stage urethane.  I've decided I really don't like it, especially when compared to the way the Sunfire has held up over the many years.  I've done a few DuPont Centauri jobs, but, I don't much care for DuPont products, either.  (I'll admit at least some of my bias is because of DuPont's General Motors connections as a shareholder and supplier.  Which is really rather silly on my part....)

I agree with Alan, that shooting the color is really the least of any body/paint job.  At least 80% of any paint job is repairing dents and rust, shooting primers and sealers, and sanding, sanding, sanding....  That's where all the labor and associated costs come in, so, I'll second his suggestion to do all the dirty, uncelebrated prep-work, and find someone with a good gun and facility to shoot colors.  (Which, unfortunately, is also the funnest and most rewarding part of the job.)

Mark in Lakewood, CO
1979 300SD (Deperately crying out for a new paint job....)


To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
From: tccservice111@yahoo.com
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 23:59:22 +0000
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Paint able to stand up to 500 degrees

 

I say 10 years nowing it may last 5.

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Nate Rector <tccservice111@...> wrote:
>
>
>  Hey All.
>  
>  Getting mixed info.I want a 10 year paint,with no lifting peeling.The minuim coats please.
>  I'm tring to dothis on $600 max including compressor used?,paint gun,tape,ect..
>

I've also used Sunfire in the past and found that it produced a super gloss.  I only suggested DuPont because they seem to be universal.  The list of paint manufacturers is growing by the day, but availability in any area is usually limited by the choices of the local paint suppliers.  There are several competitive lower price urethanes and epoxies available, but I don't have enough experience with the different brands to suggest one.  In general, it's best to stick to one brand of paint from primers to top coat, but  my local supplier usually suggests more economical choices and he hasn't led me astray yet.  The luckiest thing to find is a shop with someone who has had years of experience and yet is knowledgeable in the newer products.  My feeling about DuPont is that their products are good but not  better than most of the competitive products and their prices are significantly higher than most of the competition.

 

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