directions .
-Nate
Rich wrote:
>
> The pliers are only used to remove the old, leaky pump which is
> being tossed.
> Rich
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "vwnate1" <vwnate1@>
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Yabbutt ;
> >
> > That leaves "Mechanic's marks " (tool marks) on the soft aluminum
> > body of the primer pump and I don't like to do that .
> >
> > If you follow my method of fuel filter change you'll need not
> touch
> > the primer poump at all .
> >
> > -Nate
> > Rich wrote:
> > >
> > > You can use channel-lock pliers to remove the old one without
> taking
> > > off the hose barb. That would work if you were putting on the
> new
> > > style, since it has a smaller hex and a crowsfoot will fit in
the
> > > space to tighten it up.
> > >
> > > True about pumping more. The new style is tiny and takes a lot
> of
> > pumping.
> > >
> > > Since I have been changing pre-filters so often, however, I have
> > > developed a regimen that minimizes the required pumping.
> > >
> > > Do this when you have 3/4 tank or more fuel. And have a yogurt
> cup
> > or
> > > similar handy to put the old filter into.
> > > 1. Loosen both hose clamps.
> > > 2. Remove the feed hose from the old filter.
> > > 3. Quickly slip the new filter on the feed hose.
> > > 4. Hold the new filter upright and watch it magically fill with
> fuel
> > > from the bottom up, while you:
> > > 5. remove the old filter from the pump line.
> > > 6. When it's full of fuel, attach the new filter to the pump
> line.
> > > 7. Twist and arrange as necessary.
> > > 8. Tighten the hose clamps.
> > > Ready to go with minimal or no priming, and very little
> spillage. I
> > > usually drape a rag under the whole works.
> > >
> > > Rich
> >
>
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