Re: [diesel_mercedes] Max Age WVO - WAS Re: [CARS-ETC] What's up with U.S. gasoline prices?

 

I don't see a centrifuge as a hassle. Fill a 55 gal drum, (with a small cent mounted on the lid) flip a switch and go watch a movie. Rule of thumb is a cars oil filter is about 20 microns. Oil filtered through a cent is about 1/2 microns. How about that 5 micron filter lasting 20,000 miles? Cleaner the oil = better flow, better fogging at injectors, less maintainance, better performance, etc., etc., etc., But like Henry said, if someones happy with their process, Great.
 
Mike

--- On Fri, 1/21/11, ygmir111 <ygmir111@att.net> wrote:

From: ygmir111 <ygmir111@att.net>
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Max Age WVO - WAS Re: [CARS-ETC] What's up with U.S. gasoline prices?
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, January 21, 2011, 4:40 PM

 
cool
not sayin you're right or wrong, and parameters mean everything in this.
If you're happy, I'm happy.
I was just sayin, a centrifuge would do a good job.

Henry

----- Original Message -----
From: "n61cm" <jim@tazwade.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2011 2:01 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Max Age WVO - WAS Re: [CARS-ETC] What's up with
U.S. gasoline prices?

Yeah, but a filter would do good enough for less hassle. You could probably
spin a bunch of crap out of diesel fuel straight from the pump but the
engines are made to tolerate a certain amount of crud. Nothing lasts
forever and for me, it's not worth it to try and get an engine to last
forever if the car is going to rust around it anyway. I get 2000 miles out
of a 5 micron filter on wvo that I let sit in a barrel for 30 days.

Jim

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "ygmir111" <ygmir111@...> wrote:
>
> Jim:
> I would respectfully disagree that the centrifuge will not help.
> I just did a test, using a barrel of oil that had sat over a year, and
> our
> summer temps can get over 100 deg.
> It still pulled water, metal, and carbon, out of the mix. And this, at a
> constant feed rate of approx. 8GHP.
> Those can be suspended, even as a colloid, and perhaps "never" (tough
> term)
> settle out.
> But, the centrifuge did remove a pretty fair quantity of stuff. I pulled
> the
> samples from above the bottom of the barrel.
> I'd think, yes, it is another form of "acceleration/gravity" but, at the
> high values that exist, (mine is 1200 times G), it can separate things
> that
> would not, or would probably take "years", to separate.
>
> Just my results, and thoughts.
>
> Henry
>
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Paint able to stand up to 500 degrees

 

Youse guys are getting me ansy to paint.
 
brian from la verne, ca


From: Alan Boucher <alstheone@verizon.net>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, January 21, 2011 7:21:22 PM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Paint able to stand up to 500 degrees

 

On 1/21/2011 9:14 PM, Mark in Lakewood CO wrote:

 

In 1985,  I completely tore down to nuts and bolts a 1966 Plymouth Sport Fury convertible, and shot it with Sherwin Williams Sunfire, a two-component, single-stage urethane.  The paint still looks great.  Two years later, I used the same product on a 1973 SAAB Sonett III, and that paint still looks good, too.  Then, I did a number of cars using PPG Deltron/Delthane, a two-component, two-stage urethane.  I've decided I really don't like it, especially when compared to the way the Sunfire has held up over the many years.  I've done a few DuPont Centauri jobs, but, I don't much care for DuPont products, either.  (I'll admit at least some of my bias is because of DuPont's General Motors connections as a shareholder and supplier.  Which is really rather silly on my part....)

I agree with Alan, that shooting the color is really the least of any body/paint job.  At least 80% of any paint job is repairing dents and rust, shooting primers and sealers, and sanding, sanding, sanding....  That's where all the labor and associated costs come in, so, I'll second his suggestion to do all the dirty, uncelebrated prep-work, and find someone with a good gun and facility to shoot colors.  (Which, unfortunately, is also the funnest and most rewarding part of the job.)

Mark in Lakewood, CO
1979 300SD (Deperately crying out for a new paint job....)

To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
From: tccservice111@yahoo.com
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 23:59:22 +0000
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Paint able to stand up to 500 degrees

 
I say 10 years nowing it may last 5.

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Nate Rector <tccservice111@...> wrote:
>
>
>  Hey All.
>  
>  Getting mixed info.I want a 10 year paint,with no lifting peeling.The minuim coats please.
>  I'm tring to dothis on $600 max including compressor used?,paint gun,tape,ect..
>


I've also used Sunfire in the past and found that it produced a super gloss.  I only suggested DuPont because they seem to be universal.  The list of paint manufacturers is growing by the day, but availability in any area is usually limited by the choices of the local paint suppliers.  There are several competitive lower price urethanes and epoxies available, but I don't have enough experience with the different brands to suggest one.  In general, it's best to stick to one brand of paint from primers to top coat, but  my local supplier usually suggests more economical choices and he hasn't led me astray yet.  The luckiest thing to find is a shop with someone who has had years of experience and yet is knowledgeable in the newer products.  My feeling about DuPont is that their products are good but not  better than most of the competitive products and their prices are significantly higher than most of the competition.

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[diesel_mercedes] I Had To Buy It....

 


As I was @ ETY to-day buying a new Bosch headlight door for the TD , I noticed a brandy new W-123 grille hanging from the ceiling...

They tell me the local body shops are paying $116 each for these , I only wanted the plastic center part and the aluminum strips as my 300CD's grille is beginning to look a bit peaked and the star is corroded too....

What the hell , I bought it (much less $) and will soon take the new but sprung hood star I got for free a while ago and build myself a spiffy front end , being sure of course to transfer my old style 300,000 KM badge over too .

If it'll work , I'll re use the original German surround as it's perfect and only needs minor polishing to look new again .

-Nate

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[diesel_mercedes] ! WARNING ! WARNING ! (waste Oil)

 



That stuff is _loaded_ with carcinogous PCB's ! .

Keep away from him and his house /car / yard etc. .

-Nate

Nate R. Wrote :

I know a guy that ran 50 yr. old veggie oil.It was transformer oil.

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Paint able to stand up to 500 degrees

 

On 1/21/2011 9:14 PM, Mark in Lakewood CO wrote:

 

In 1985,  I completely tore down to nuts and bolts a 1966 Plymouth Sport Fury convertible, and shot it with Sherwin Williams Sunfire, a two-component, single-stage urethane.  The paint still looks great.  Two years later, I used the same product on a 1973 SAAB Sonett III, and that paint still looks good, too.  Then, I did a number of cars using PPG Deltron/Delthane, a two-component, two-stage urethane.  I've decided I really don't like it, especially when compared to the way the Sunfire has held up over the many years.  I've done a few DuPont Centauri jobs, but, I don't much care for DuPont products, either.  (I'll admit at least some of my bias is because of DuPont's General Motors connections as a shareholder and supplier.  Which is really rather silly on my part....)

I agree with Alan, that shooting the color is really the least of any body/paint job.  At least 80% of any paint job is repairing dents and rust, shooting primers and sealers, and sanding, sanding, sanding....  That's where all the labor and associated costs come in, so, I'll second his suggestion to do all the dirty, uncelebrated prep-work, and find someone with a good gun and facility to shoot colors.  (Which, unfortunately, is also the funnest and most rewarding part of the job.)

Mark in Lakewood, CO
1979 300SD (Deperately crying out for a new paint job....)

To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
From: tccservice111@yahoo.com
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 23:59:22 +0000
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Paint able to stand up to 500 degrees

 
I say 10 years nowing it may last 5.

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Nate Rector <tccservice111@...> wrote:
>
>
>  Hey All.
>  
>  Getting mixed info.I want a 10 year paint,with no lifting peeling.The minuim coats please.
>  I'm tring to dothis on $600 max including compressor used?,paint gun,tape,ect..
>


I've also used Sunfire in the past and found that it produced a super gloss.  I only suggested DuPont because they seem to be universal.  The list of paint manufacturers is growing by the day, but availability in any area is usually limited by the choices of the local paint suppliers.  There are several competitive lower price urethanes and epoxies available, but I don't have enough experience with the different brands to suggest one.  In general, it's best to stick to one brand of paint from primers to top coat, but  my local supplier usually suggests more economical choices and he hasn't led me astray yet.  The luckiest thing to find is a shop with someone who has had years of experience and yet is knowledgeable in the newer products.  My feeling about DuPont is that their products are good but not  better than most of the competitive products and their prices are significantly higher than most of the competition.

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Paint able to stand up to 500 degrees

 


I agree with single stage Acrylic Enamel , I love that stuff .

IIRC , Mercedes used Glasuriet paints and you're _not_ going to find better paints than that , _ever_ , _anywhere_ .

-Nate
Nate R. wrote:
>
>
>
> I'm think acrylic enamel.I''ll install new pad,but I want a better paint than factory,and single stage.
>

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[diesel_mercedes] It Must Be Love........

 


Why else would I purchase and rebuild an old Mercedes Station Wagon I refuse to even drive ?? .

SWMBO doesn't know yet but to-morrow Tom and I are driving up to pick up her 300TD from the paint shop , I hope it's a better job than my old Oriental Red Coupe was, that upset me so much I'm selling the car .

-Nate

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RE: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Paint able to stand up to 500 degrees

 

In 1985,  I completely tore down to nuts and bolts a 1966 Plymouth Sport Fury convertible, and shot it with Sherwin Williams Sunfire, a two-component, single-stage urethane.  The paint still looks great.  Two years later, I used the same product on a 1973 SAAB Sonett III, and that paint still looks good, too.  Then, I did a number of cars using PPG Deltron/Delthane, a two-component, two-stage urethane.  I've decided I really don't like it, especially when compared to the way the Sunfire has held up over the many years.  I've done a few DuPont Centauri jobs, but, I don't much care for DuPont products, either.  (I'll admit at least some of my bias is because of DuPont's General Motors connections as a shareholder and supplier.  Which is really rather silly on my part....)

I agree with Alan, that shooting the color is really the least of any body/paint job.  At least 80% of any paint job is repairing dents and rust, shooting primers and sealers, and sanding, sanding, sanding....  That's where all the labor and associated costs come in, so, I'll second his suggestion to do all the dirty, uncelebrated prep-work, and find someone with a good gun and facility to shoot colors.  (Which, unfortunately, is also the funnest and most rewarding part of the job.)

Mark in Lakewood, CO
1979 300SD (Deperately crying out for a new paint job....)

To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
From: tccservice111@yahoo.com
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 23:59:22 +0000
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Paint able to stand up to 500 degrees

 
I say 10 years nowing it may last 5.

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Nate Rector <tccservice111@...> wrote:
>
>
>  Hey All.
>  
>  Getting mixed info.I want a 10 year paint,with no lifting peeling.The minuim coats please.
>  I'm tring to dothis on $600 max including compressor used?,paint gun,tape,ect..
>


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Tires

 

If I'm reading the code right, they were built in '06

bk

--- On Fri, 1/21/11, Alan Boucher <alstheone@verizon.net> wrote:

From: Alan Boucher <alstheone@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Tires
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, January 21, 2011, 12:03 PM

 

On 1/21/2011 1:50 PM, briankk wrote:

 

Scored at not-too-local P&P, (Rancho Cordova) full set of Nokian Hakkkapeliitta 4 winter tires, fully studded, still showing #8 wear indicator, $150 out the door.

Cable chains gone to the dump..

Now I need 4 spare 240D wheels from same source @ $7.00/ea..

bk

Great buy, but how old are they?  Did you check the age code?  I've forgotten how but,  you should check even on purchases from a tire dealer.

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Paint able to stand up to 500 degrees

 

On 1/21/2011 6:59 PM, oldsinner111 wrote:

 

I say 10 years nowing it may last 5.

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Nate Rector <tccservice111@...> wrote:
>
>
>  Hey All.
>  
>  Getting mixed info.I want a 10 year paint,with no lifting peeling.The minuim coats please.
>  I'm tring to dothis on $600 max including compressor used?,paint gun,tape,ect..
>

One other approach that may be less expensive is to do all the prep work, sanding filling etc and then take it to a body shop to have it painted.  The actual spraying of the paint is a small percentage of the total time necessary to do a good job.  The secret is all in the prep.  You can even get a better job out of a Maaco type shop if you do the prep.  They usually  pay their  prep guys a flat rate per car which can lead to a quick once over and a poorer result than if you did the work.  The other reason for their usually low price is that these type of shops use their own  paint supplier and often can't exactly match the original color.   In either of these cases, they may be reluctant to warranty  the job if they don't have full control of every stage in the process. The best approach if you want to explore alternatives to doing it all yourself is to talk to a few of the local body shops to see if they will work with you.   Another approach if you aren't in a hurry is to talk to a local vocational high school to see if they would do some or all of the work.  If you have the time and night classes are available you could sign up, get some training and use their equipment.  Talk to the people in  your area including the local paint suppliers, you'll get an education and what you find out is available locally might surprise you.

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Max Age WVO - WAS Re: [CARS-ETC] What's up with U.S. gasoline prices?

 

If you don't want trivial, this is interesting:

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/100/ph-test-tan-tbn

--- On Fri, 1/21/11, ygmir111 <ygmir111@att.net> wrote:

From: ygmir111 <ygmir111@att.net>
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Max Age WVO - WAS Re: [CARS-ETC] What's up with U.S. gasoline prices?
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, January 21, 2011, 4:01 PM

 

Thanks Blaise........I didn't know that.

good info.

Henry

----- Original Message -----
From: "Blaise Colasante" <supervee03@yahoo.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2011 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Max Age WVO - WAS Re: [CARS-ETC] What's up
with U.S. gasoline prices?

Remember that pH can only be tested in a water based solution. To check used
motor oil or WVO pH you need to take a small amount of oil and add some
water,
shake vigirously for a bit and then let the two liquids separate; oil on
top,
water on the bottom. Test the pH of the water to find out if the oil is
acidic
or basic.
Blaise

________________________________
From: briankk <briankk@att.net>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, January 21, 2011 12:35:13 PM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Max Age WVO - WAS Re: [CARS-ETC] What's up
with
U.S. gasoline prices?

PH testing is near
trivial. http://www.indigo.com/test-strips/ph-test-strips.html

Oil can mechanically fail. Oil pumped from the ground is modified with
plasticizers to get the desired viscosity, this means that the oil has a lot
of
long chain polymers in it, and these long chain polymers are subject to
a phenomenon known as 'shear back", where the polymers trapped between the
cam
and followers (for instance) can be mechanically broken, over time the oil
in
the engine loses viscosity.

Synthetic oils basic molecule is built in the lab, can avoid this, but try
writing to an oil company and start asking detailed question, you may wind
up
talking to a lawyer.

I once talked with an oil engineer/scientist at Shell oil in Houston, asked
what
the specific chemistry was of their oil, and he started to tell me, but
outran
my ability to understand what he was on about somewhere in the first or
second sentence..

(sigh)

bk

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Max Age WVO - WAS Re: [CARS-ETC] What's up with U.S. gasoline prices?

 

Thanks Blaise........I didn't know that.

good info.

Henry

----- Original Message -----
From: "Blaise Colasante" <supervee03@yahoo.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2011 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Max Age WVO - WAS Re: [CARS-ETC] What's up
with U.S. gasoline prices?

Remember that pH can only be tested in a water based solution. To check used
motor oil or WVO pH you need to take a small amount of oil and add some
water,
shake vigirously for a bit and then let the two liquids separate; oil on
top,
water on the bottom. Test the pH of the water to find out if the oil is
acidic
or basic.
Blaise

________________________________
From: briankk <briankk@att.net>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, January 21, 2011 12:35:13 PM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Max Age WVO - WAS Re: [CARS-ETC] What's up
with
U.S. gasoline prices?

PH testing is near
trivial. http://www.indigo.com/test-strips/ph-test-strips.html

Oil can mechanically fail. Oil pumped from the ground is modified with
plasticizers to get the desired viscosity, this means that the oil has a lot
of
long chain polymers in it, and these long chain polymers are subject to
a phenomenon known as 'shear back", where the polymers trapped between the
cam
and followers (for instance) can be mechanically broken, over time the oil
in
the engine loses viscosity.

Synthetic oils basic molecule is built in the lab, can avoid this, but try
writing to an oil company and start asking detailed question, you may wind
up
talking to a lawyer.

I once talked with an oil engineer/scientist at Shell oil in Houston, asked
what
the specific chemistry was of their oil, and he started to tell me, but
outran
my ability to understand what he was on about somewhere in the first or
second sentence..

(sigh)

bk

--- On Fri, 1/21/11, ygmir111 <ygmir111@att.net>wrote:

>From: ygmir111 <ygmir111@att.net>
>Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Max Age WVO - WAS Re: [CARS-ETC] What's up
>with
>U.S. gasoline prices?
>To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
>Date: Friday, January 21, 2011, 9:06 AM
>
>
>
>oil testing, for standard, is about 10 bucks, here.
>but, they don't test for PH. dang.
>
>I've run 20 gals of WMO through the centrifuge, and run it in my
>truck.....works great. I diluted with diesel, before "spinning" to thin it
>for better effect. And thinned again in the tank, since it had diesel
>already in it.
>
>I'm told, "oil" never wears out, only the additives and junk that gets in
>it.
>So, one might imagine given a good enough cleaning, PH balancing, and new
>additives, it could run a long time.
>
>Henry
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "briankk" <briankk@att.net>
>To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Friday, January 21, 2011 9:01 AM
>Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Max Age WVO - WAS Re: [CARS-ETC] What's up
>with U.S. gasoline prices?
>
>Well, that is very interesting. One of the questions in their FAQ is
>whether
>it would be practical to centrifuge and re-use motor oil., they think
>perhaps so if using synthetic motor oil...
>I recall reading somewhere (Diesel Power?), of an aftermarket diesel filter
>that contained an additive package booster. As the used oil becomes
>contaminated with acid the PH goes to hell and starts eating expensive
>bits,
>this package neutralizes that.. I do wonder if you had an synthetic oil
>who's viscosity wasn't dependent on long chain polymers, might not be used
>forever with this combination... How much is oil testing, nowadays?
>bk
>
>--- On Fri, 1/21/11, ygmir111 <ygmir111@att.net> wrote:
>
>From: ygmir111 <ygmir111@att.net>
>Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Max Age WVO - WAS Re: [CARS-ETC] What's up
>with U.S. gasoline prices?
>To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
>Date: Friday, January 21, 2011, 8:21 AM
>
>simplecentrifuge.com
>
>constant feed/output.
>
>-
>
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Paint able to stand up to 500 degrees

 

I do too., clatta clatta!
 
Kevin in Hillsboro, Oregon

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