On 6/23/2012 1:54 PM, Chip wrote:
>
> How do I turn my fog light on?
Pull the head light switch out.
--
Stan George Portland <<
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Care and feeding of my yellow fog lamps
Re: [diesel_mercedes] Idle rough at traffic lights
Rough idling is nearly always due to fuel delivery problems; like fuel filters/strainer, air getting in the system, maybe weak lift pump.
Mine idles roughly whenever the ambient air temps get over 85 degrees F. Never quite figured out why. Both of my engine shocks are bad, as are the engine shock mounts.
Mark in Lakewood, CO (Still runnin' and lovin' a '79 300SD, W116.)
From: "Trish Dougherty" <purrfectharmonyfarm@wifi45.com>
To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2012 11:07:18 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Idle rough at traffic lights
From: "Trish Dougherty" <purrfectharmonyfarm@wifi45.com>
To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2012 11:07:18 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Idle rough at traffic lights
Anyone have an answer as to why my car idles rough while waiting on a traffic light? With the remodel we didn't use the engine shocks. We'll have to do a special creation to use them.
Did I tell you that I broke down for 3 hrs in the WM parking lot? Yeah, when I pulled in and put it in park it went in reverse! The clip holding the shifter came off.
As soon as I got on the freeway my speedometer bounced once then went to zero where it's stuck. Fun not knowing how fast your going. :( For some reason I'm already followed by the local law enforcement, they seem fascinated by my car. I don't need to draw their attention.
Thanks.
'81 300Sd poc!
--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Saw a 1976 W115 300D today
Some engine parts, possibly. Window parts; not likely. Power door lock parts? No. The 115s were blissfully simple, without all the vacuum-powered or automatic climate control stuff. It probably has crank windows, especially if it was Canadian-market. Definitely naturally-aspirated. Even the W123-based 300D didn't get the turbo till sometime mid-'81ish.
'Twould be better to resurrect it and drive it....
(The earliest W115 5-cylinder diesels were badged as "240D 3.0".)
Mark in Lakewood, CO
From: "Lost but making good time." <aldridgetony97@yahoo.com>
To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2012 5:01:40 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Saw a 1976 W115 300D today
From: "Lost but making good time." <aldridgetony97@yahoo.com>
To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2012 5:01:40 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Saw a 1976 W115 300D today
Wondering if it would make much of a parts car for my 83 300D turbo, Did not look too bad, I think it is naturally aspirated, I would not expect it to have parts for the cruisero, but if it had the same stuff for the elec windows and door locks t'would work. Dunno what he is asking, but it has sat in a field for a while. Any advice would be welcome.
If anyone in Western Canada would be interested, it looks like a fairly easy vehicle to get back in roadworthy shape.
Tony.
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Care and feeding of my yellow fog lamps
To turn on the fog lights, you turn the light switch to the parking light position, then PULL the headlight switch out. Not sure about '82s, but the earlier cars (the 108s, anyway) would not allow the fog lights to be on when the headlights were on. The switch would pop back in whenever it was in the headlight or "0" positions. The whole point of fog lights was to get illumination without having the light from the headlights reflecting off the fog or snow back at you. (I've been in snowstorms at night around here when it was actually easier to see the road ahead with the headlights turned OFF!)
As for a source for replacement elements, autohausaz.com shows this one:
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=a3wohn450o4uizev3r0tifzu&makeid=800016@Mercedes&modelid=1193554@300CDT&year=1982&cid=13@Body,%20Trim%20%26%20Lighting&gid=11696@Fog%20Light%20Bulb
Mark in Lakewood, CO
From: "Chip" <czulli@gmail.com>
To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2012 2:54:00 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Care and feeding of my yellow fog lamps
From: "Chip" <czulli@gmail.com>
To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2012 2:54:00 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Care and feeding of my yellow fog lamps
Oh how I hate to look stupid.
How do I turn my fog light on? I have a 1982 turbo coupe 123 that I have owned for way too long not knowing how to light my yellow fog lamps. And...once I know how to light them, what if they don'
t work? I will assume they are special and hard to find a source?
All right, now I have said it and it is out there for the world to have at.
Thanks for helping the slow and needy.
Chip
Houston
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Care and feeding of my yellow fog lamps
Normally, you pull out your light switch directly toward you. Pull in front of a wall and pull the switch out. You may need to turn it a notch. I used my fogs once in 10 years, but have acquired whites to install "someday" for added night time visibility.
brian from laverne, ca
Mary (195K) Martha (280K)
1983 w123 300d's
Mary (195K) Martha (280K)
1983 w123 300d's
From: Chip <czulli@gmail.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2012 1:54 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Care and feeding of my yellow fog lamps
Oh how I hate to look stupid.
How do I turn my fog light on? I have a 1982 turbo coupe 123 that I have owned for way too long not knowing how to light my yellow fog lamps. And...once I know how to light them, what if they don'
t work? I will assume they are special and hard to find a source?
All right, now I have said it and it is out there for the world to have at.
Thanks for helping the slow and needy.
Chip
Houston
How do I turn my fog light on? I have a 1982 turbo coupe 123 that I have owned for way too long not knowing how to light my yellow fog lamps. And...once I know how to light them, what if they don'
t work? I will assume they are special and hard to find a source?
All right, now I have said it and it is out there for the world to have at.
Thanks for helping the slow and needy.
Chip
Houston
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Care and feeding of my yellow fog lamps
at left-of-steering wheel , on dash ,, you have a turn-to-right knob? when turned over to about 3 :Clock position, pull out when and the fog light should be on. My '83 300D works that way. fog light goes off when brights are activated. you can get a 100watt yellow replacement bulb from EBay. abt $7 ... sometimes each sometimes for set of 2 ...+s&h
On Sat, Jun 23, 2012 at 4:54 PM, Chip <czulli@gmail.com> wrote:
Oh how I hate to look stupid.
How do I turn my fog light on? I have a 1982 turbo coupe 123 that I have owned for way too long not knowing how to light my yellow fog lamps. And...once I know how to light them, what if they don'
t work? I will assume they are special and hard to find a source?
All right, now I have said it and it is out there for the world to have at.
Thanks for helping the slow and needy.
Chip
Houston
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Care and feeding of my yellow fog lamps
On my sedans, you pull on the light switch.
Carl
On 6/23/2012 4:54 PM, Chip wrote:
Oh how I hate to look stupid.
How do I turn my fog light on? I have a 1982 turbo coupe 123 that I have owned for way too long not knowing how to light my yellow fog lamps. And...once I know how to light them, what if they don'
t work? I will assume they are special and hard to find a source?
All right, now I have said it and it is out there for the world to have at.
Thanks for helping the slow and needy.
Chip
Houston
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Care and feeding of my yellow fog lamps
Oh how I hate to look stupid.Chip, I'm not sure on the 123, but on the 126, you turn the headlight switch to the headlights 'on' position, and then pull the switch out from the dashboard. There is a pull-on / push-off position for the driving lights. Also, if you have the Euro version, the headlight switch center rail should be straight up and down when in the 'off' position. From that position, there should be two COUNTER clockwise positions. The first position will light the right side front and rear marker lights. The second position lights the left side marker lights. This is because in Europe, cars parked in the first spot from an intersection are supposed to have their lane-side marker lights left on over night, for safety. You can see this feature in films when there is action on a street at night. It's not a bad idea, when parking in dark lots or driveways, when you expect other traffic. I use it frequently in L.A. Tom In a message dated 6/23/2012 8:22:18 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, czulli@gmail.com writes:
How do I turn my fog light on? I have a 1982 turbo coupe 123 that I have owned for way too long not knowing how to light my yellow fog lamps. And...once I know how to light them, what if they don'
t work? I will assume they are special and hard to find a source?
All right, now I have said it and it is out there for the world to have at.
Thanks for helping the slow and needy.
Chip
Houston
__._,_.___
.
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[diesel_mercedes] Saw a 1976 W115 300D today
Wondering if it would make much of a parts car for my 83 300D turbo, Did not look too bad, I think it is naturally aspirated, I would not expect it to have parts for the cruisero, but if it had the same stuff for the elec windows and door locks t'would work. Dunno what he is asking, but it has sat in a field for a while. Any advice would be welcome.
If anyone in Western Canada would be interested, it looks like a fairly easy vehicle to get back in roadworthy shape.
Tony.
__._,_.___
.
__,_._,___
[diesel_mercedes] Re: Re : AC Service
Nate,
I have not tried yet to locate R12 or Freeze 12, but I am headed to a flea market tomorrow and will keep my eyes open. It's been awhile, but I have seen it now and again.
Chip
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
>
> Understood .
>
> Has anyone yet found the correct amount of R134a to use in a R-12 system ? . like I said , once you know the <magic> pressure , it makes the old typ system work pretty well .
>
> Ask him if he knows where to get R-12 , then consider buying an AC flushing kit from Harbor Freight , a new expansion valve and some Esther Oil (Pep Boys oddly enough) and flushing it before installing the new expansion valve and Esther Oil before having him evacuate & re charge it with the R-12.....
>
> I bet you can find it in the local Auto Swaps if you try , just KEEP YOUR MOUTH SHUT and don't wave it around once you have it ~ slip it in a bag and slink off happy .
>
> Can you find " Freeze - 12 " locally ? . it's an R-12 substitute .
>
> -Nate
> Chip wrote:
> >
> >
> > Nate,
> >
> > My German guy here in Houston is cussin me every time I,see him for allowing my R12 system to a newer product. It barely works in this heat, even with your pencil inserts,in center dash. He says it will get no better until I go back to R12.
> >
> > We can't turn back the hands of time, but Damn,if we can't try.
> >
> > Chip
> > Houston
> >
>
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[diesel_mercedes] Care and feeding of my yellow fog lamps
Oh how I hate to look stupid.
How do I turn my fog light on? I have a 1982 turbo coupe 123 that I have owned for way too long not knowing how to light my yellow fog lamps. And...once I know how to light them, what if they don'
t work? I will assume they are special and hard to find a source?
All right, now I have said it and it is out there for the world to have at.
Thanks for helping the slow and needy.
Chip
Houston
__._,_.___
.
__,_._,___
Re: [diesel_mercedes] Idle rough at traffic lights
| you may need a new rack dampening bolt.....been awhile since I've replaced one them but someone else on this list surely has replaced theirs recently and can offer tips if this is the problem. --- On Sat, 6/23/12, Trish Dougherty <purrfectharmonyfarm@wifi45.com> wrote:
|
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Idle rough at traffic lights
I have the same problem with my 82. Much worse with the air on!
Boyd
From: Trish Dougherty <purrfectharmonyfarm@wifi45.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2012 10:07 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Idle rough at traffic lights
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2012 10:07 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Idle rough at traffic lights
Anyone have an answer as to why my car idles rough while waiting on a traffic light? With the remodel we didn't use the engine shocks. We'll have to do a special creation to use them.
Did I tell you that I broke down for 3 hrs in the WM parking lot? Yeah, when I pulled in and put it in park it went in reverse! The clip holding the shifter came off.
As soon as I got on the freeway my speedometer bounced once then went to zero where it's stuck. Fun not knowing how fast your going. :( For some reason I'm already followed by the local law enforcement, they seem fascinated by my car. I don't need to draw their attention.
Thanks.
'81 300Sd poc!
--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com
Did I tell you that I broke down for 3 hrs in the WM parking lot? Yeah, when I pulled in and put it in park it went in reverse! The clip holding the shifter came off.
As soon as I got on the freeway my speedometer bounced once then went to zero where it's stuck. Fun not knowing how fast your going. :( For some reason I'm already followed by the local law enforcement, they seem fascinated by my car. I don't need to draw their attention.
Thanks.
'81 300Sd poc!
--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com
__._,_.___
.
__,_._,___
[diesel_mercedes] Idle rough at traffic lights
Anyone have an answer as to why my car idles rough while waiting on a traffic light? With the remodel we didn't use the engine shocks. We'll have to do a special creation to use them.
Did I tell you that I broke down for 3 hrs in the WM parking lot? Yeah, when I pulled in and put it in park it went in reverse! The clip holding the shifter came off.
As soon as I got on the freeway my speedometer bounced once then went to zero where it's stuck. Fun not knowing how fast your going. :( For some reason I'm already followed by the local law enforcement, they seem fascinated by my car. I don't need to draw their attention.
Thanks.
'81 300Sd poc!
--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com
__._,_.___
.
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[diesel_mercedes] Re : Vacuum Diagnosis & Repair
THANX Brian ! this is good stuff and should be added to the ' FILES ' sectopn of the Home Page as well as downloaded & retained by all here as sooner or later you'll need it .
-Nate
Brian wrote:
>
> Ran across this in my files, might be of some interest:
>
> VACUUM LINE FIXES #1
> The vacuum comes from the intake manifold and is stored in a reservoir in the trunk. If the lock in your doors only works while the car is running or will only work once after you shut the car off, then you've got a vacuum leak. Generally, it's one of the following: a leak in one of the vacuum lines, a leak in one of the vacuum-powered door lock mechanisms or a leak in the reservoir. Most likely it's one of the door lock units. Here is a step-by-step diagnostic that I prepared after fixing a vacuum leak in my own car (W123 230E 84). It turned out to be a failing locking unit for the fuel filler cover in my case.
>
> Step 1. (a) Sit in the car with the doors unlocked and the car running. Stop the engine and wait for a minute or a two. Lock the driver's door. (b) Do the other doors lock properly? If not you have a leak in the unlocking system (yellow lines with a green stripe) and should proceed to "Step 3".
>
> Step 2. (a) Sit in the car with the doors locked and the car running. Stop the engine and wait for a minute or a two. Unlock (open) the driver's door. (b) Do the other doors unlock properly? If not you have a leak in the locking system (yellow lines with a red stripe).
>
> Step 3. Pull out the driver's floor mats. Underneath them, near the door you will find a black plastic cover that protects the vacuum lines. Open it and pull out the appropriate lines (green or red striped). Near the seat you will find an "H" shaped rubber connector. One vacuum line is coming from the engine compartment into the connector, one will go back to the driver's door and one will go ahead to the rear door behind the driver (left side). The last line will go over to the other side of the car. Holding the rubber connector, gently pull out the line that is going to the other side of the car and place the plug into the connector instead. Now you have disconnected the doors on the right side of the car, the trunk and the fuel fill cover. Go back into the car and close the door and start the engine. Repeat either step 1a or 2a, depending witch of them gave you the right result before. Is the rear door on the driver's side locking/unlocking properly? Note that the locking of the other doors will not be working. If the rear door is locking/unlocking properly go to "Step 6" else continue to "Step 4".
>
> Step 4. The rear door is not locking/unlocking and you have a leak in the left side of the car (front and rear door) or in the engine compartment or in the reservoir. Place the line that you pulled out before again into the rubber connector. Gently pull out the line that goes to the rear door and place the plug there instead. Go back into the car, close the door and start the engine. Repeat either step 1a or 2a, depending witch of them gave you the right result before. Do the doors on the right side of the car lock/unlock properly? If they are locking/unlocking you have a leak in the left rear door and should proceed to "Step 5". If they are not working you have a leak in the drivers door or in the engine compartment or the reservoir. You will need a vacuum gauge to continue.
>
> Step 5. You have found the door that is the source of the leak. Now you need to know if it is the vacuum lock unit or the vacuum lines that are leaking. Remove the door panel and you will find the locking unit in the bottom of the inside of the door. Pull out the appropriate line (red or green striped) from the unit and place the plug into the line. Go back into the car, close the doors and start the engine. Repeat either step 1a or 2a like before. Do the doors on the right side of the car lock/unlock properly? If they are locking/unlocking the leak is in the locking unit, if not it's the vacuum line that is the problem. You can easily repair the line with a small rubber tube if you find where it is leaking (just cut it where it is leaking and connect the parts again with the rubber tube). Can't help you with the locking unit.
>
> Step 6. You have a leak in the right side of the car, the trunk or the fuel filler cover. Remove the plug from the rubber connector at the drivers side and place the line back into it again, close the cover and put the floor mats back in. Pull out the front passenger floor mats and underneath you will find another set of rubber connectors in the plastic cover on that side (one for the locking line and one for the unlocking lines like before). These connectors will be "Y" shaped with three ends going back and one to the front. One of the tree ends is connected to the line that is coming from the other side of the car, one goes to the rear door, one to the trunk. The only one that goes forward into the other direction is for the front door. We will start by disconnecting the front passenger door. Gently remove the line from the connector and place the plug instead. Go back into the car, close the doors and start the engine. Repeat either step 1a or 2a like before. Do the rear doors lock/unlock properly? If they do, the front door is the source of the leak and you should proceed to "Step 5". If they are not working just proceed to "Step 7".
>
> Step 7. You have a leak in the right rear door, in the trunk or the fuel filler cover. We will first test the rear door for leaks. Remove the plug from the connector and reinstall the front door vacuum line. Remove the rear door vacuum line from the connector and place the plug there instead. Go back into the car, close the doors and start the engine. Repeat either step 1a or 2a like before. Do the left rear door and front passenger door lock/unlock properly? If they do, the rear door on the right side is the source of the leak and you should proceed to "Step 5". If they are not working just proceed to "Step 8".
>
> Step 8. You have a leak in the trunk or the fuel filler cover. To verify this remove the plug from the connector and reinstall the rear door vacuum line. Remove the last vacuum line from the connector and place the plug there instead. Go back into the car, close the doors and start the engine. Repeat either step 1a or 2a like before. Do the all the doors lock/unlock properly? If they do, you have verified that the leak is in the trunk or the fuel-filler cover and can proceed to "Step 9" after removing the plug and reinstalling the line. If they don't work, try to repeat the process again if you have missed something. If they still don't work the leak will probably be in the line that goes from the left side of the car to the right under the front seats. You might also have a double leak, but since that is highly unlikely I will not deal with that here.
>
> Step 9. We will first examine the fuel filler cover locking for leaks. Remove the plastic cover from inside of the right rear fender. You might have to go into the trunk yourself to disconnect the tree-way rubber connector. Disconnect the line that goes to the filler cover and place the plug instead. Once again repeat either step 1a or 2a like before. Do the all the doors lock/unlock properly? If they don't proceed to "Step 10", but if they do, the leak is in the fuel filler cover vacuum locking unit.
>
> Step 10. The leak is in the trunk locking part.
>
> Regards, Sveinn Thorsteinsson, Reykjavik, Iceland.
>
> VACUUM LINE FIXES - #2
> I got the dash off, and man is it nasty under there! It's more of a pain than the center console, and I was able to remove it without taking off the steering wheel. I didn't twist and turn it too much. No new cracks, that is...
>
> I've found my leak, at last, in the #3 vacuum change over valve for the AC. #3 sucks from a little hole in the bottom, and I'm only assuming that it's not supposed to because none of the others do. I can plug the leak with my finger and the door locks magically work and the engine shuts off instantly. So I'm going to replace the valve and 4 of the 5 pink actuators. 2 don't hold a vacuum and I'm just going to replace them all, except for the re-circulating air flap one because I can't seem to find a replacement. All the parts web sites seem to think it is the same as the center flap actuator, but the two have different mounts. After this job, I'm hoping to get heat on my feet instead of in my face and much harder blowing AC! thanks for the help!
>
> VACUUM LINE FIXES #3
> EARLY STAGE OF MOTOR OIL entering the vacuum system and it will ruin the vac switch mounted at the steering /ignition lock . Remove the lower dash panel, disconnect the speedo cable from behind, carefully flush out the instrument cluster, unscrew the hard oil pressure hose to it's gauge, do not gouge the dash padding with the light reostat while doing all this. NOW you can remove the two vac hoses to the key vacuum switch and inspect for the presence of oil dripping out of the hoses, and if oil is there - replace the vacuum switch and the rubber hoses, and start cleaning back to the source of the oil - the motor.
> The oil usually comes from a leaking Vacuum Pump Diaphram at the front of the motor. Oil will be present also in the brake booster hose and all the other vacuum hoses in the motor room. Any rubber hose with the oil in it must be replaced, and the hard plactic hoses flushed clean with a degreasing spray cleaner like Brakekleen. Where ever oil got to, those vacuum swirches need to be replaced also. The diesel motor oil eats them inside. Of course replacing the vacuum pump diaphram is another job to do. Oil doesn't make it to the doors, so they are not a worry. They will resume operation when all the other stuff is addressed. Installing a small see through inline gas filter at the brake booster T fitting will give you future early warning of the presence of oil , and prevent oil traveling further into all the branches of hoses just at that booster hose T supply fitting. This was a M-B Service Bulletin ages ago.
>
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[diesel_mercedes] Re : AC Service
Understood .
Has anyone yet found the correct amount of R134a to use in a R-12 system ? . like I said , once you know the <magic> pressure , it makes the old typ system work pretty well .
Ask him if he knows where to get R-12 , then consider buying an AC flushing kit from Harbor Freight , a new expansion valve and some Esther Oil (Pep Boys oddly enough) and flushing it before installing the new expansion valve and Esther Oil before having him evacuate & re charge it with the R-12.....
I bet you can find it in the local Auto Swaps if you try , just KEEP YOUR MOUTH SHUT and don't wave it around once you have it ~ slip it in a bag and slink off happy .
Can you find " Freeze - 12 " locally ? . it's an R-12 substitute .
-Nate
Chip wrote:
>
>
> Nate,
>
> My German guy here in Houston is cussin me every time I,see him for allowing my R12 system to a newer product. It barely works in this heat, even with your pencil inserts,in center dash. He says it will get no better until I go back to R12.
>
> We can't turn back the hands of time, but Damn,if we can't try.
>
> Chip
> Houston
>
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