Re: [diesel_mercedes] Help. Someone, apparently from this list, trying to contact me privately

 

Dear friend - we have been invaded by alien beings. I believe that "Kathy" is really a fat sweaty Nigerian named Oguboodu, or a Ukranian mob boss named Borisky who wants to befriend you (and me and 10,000 other Yohooers). Ignore them, run away, do NOT reply, respond, or palaver with.
 
brian from la verne, ca


From: Bogy Wan Kenobi <polespearbogy@yahoo.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, April 7, 2011 6:05:20 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Help. Someone, apparently from this list, trying to contact me privately

 

Someone, apparently from this group, has been trying to contact me privately and wants to have a phone conversation. I do not know this person and am leary of such advances. The name is Kathy Lagoli and I have had strange email responses from her server. And she has emailed me from two different email addresses. I cannot find her email address or name anywhere on the group members list. Has anyone else had such a contact? I don't mind helping someone who is legitimate. But this is the internet and paranoia is my friend here. Can the group moderator perhaps help in identifying this person as a long standing and legitimate member of this group?

Thanks in advance,
Bogy.

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Help. Someone, apparently from this list, trying to contact me privately

 

Run away, run away...

bk

--- On Thu, 4/7/11, Bogy Wan Kenobi <polespearbogy@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Bogy Wan Kenobi <polespearbogy@yahoo.com>
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Help. Someone, apparently from this list, trying to contact me privately
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, April 7, 2011, 6:05 PM

 

Someone, apparently from this group, has been trying to contact me privately and wants to have a phone conversation. I do not know this person and am leary of such advances. The name is Kathy Lagoli and I have had strange email responses from her server. And she has emailed me from two different email addresses. I cannot find her email address or name anywhere on the group members list. Has anyone else had such a contact? I don't mind helping someone who is legitimate. But this is the internet and paranoia is my friend here. Can the group moderator perhaps help in identifying this person as a long standing and legitimate member of this group?

Thanks in advance,
Bogy.

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RE: [diesel_mercedes] progress? report [2 Attachments]

 
[Attachment(s) from bgiovan included below]

I feel ya Blaise.  Hopefully the head and turbo will be back in the next day or so and I can start putting this thing back together.  Have had the radiator redone, starter rebuilt, new water pump, rebuilt vacuum pump, new head (including prechambers) and rebuilt/rebalanced the turbo.

 

Hopefully I can get it all back together too!

 

Ben near Detroit

 

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Blaise Colasante
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2011 7:51 PM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] progress? report

 

 

Well, there's truth in the addage "There's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes"!! A year ago I removed the rear windshield & replaced the seal to stop water getting into my trunk. I also replaced the trunk seal for good measure as it was showing evidence of yielding to the elements in the near term. A few months ago I started loosing power on slight inclines & discovered the dreaded black fuel fungus had taken up residence in my fuel tank. It was BAD so I decided to drop the fuel tank and get it boiled out at the radiator shop.

 

While draining the tank I noticed fuel dripping from the left rear control arm. Fuel supply line was nearly rusted through where it goes over the control arm and had broken during efforts to remove the tank. The fuel return line & brake line were in similarly bad condition. Better to make this discovery in the driveway at home than anywhere else! I also had the opportunity to observe that the CV joint boots were badly torn, devoid of essential lubrication & also in need of replacement. Not knowing the condition of said CV joints I determined to order two new axles & replace the entire units. After the old axles were out I could inspect the CV joints to decide on their ultimate fate. Of course at that time the weather here in the NE was beginning its seasonal decline into winter which would put said projects on hold until spring as I have no indoor facilities to accomplish these efforts.

 

At Christmas a friend with a two bay tractor trailer garage who uses one bay for his manufacturing business had me over to see his shop. Taking note that he has an entirely empty bay I asked if I could bring my ailing old 300D into the bay to do some repairs that would otherwise have to wait for warmer weather. We decided I could trade assistance to his business in trade for accomodations for the Mercedes.

 

I plumbed a 1 gallon empty oil jug into the fuel system under the hood as a short distance fuel tank (since the fuel tank had not been reinstalled & the fuel lines had not been replaced) & drove the 3 miles from home to the shop. In our spacious, heated & well lit accomodations the axles were readily removed and the fuel lines removed & duplicated (yes, I did use a bubble flare tool to make the connections for the master cylinder and the rear Tee connection). In removing the axles it was determined that it would be prudent to replace the axle seals in the differential. The pinion seal was also found wanting. Since I don't have the tools to remove the pinion shaft seal & check and reset the pinion shaft preload I decided to drop the rear and get it to a small independent Mercedes shop to accomplish this.

 

I didn't feel secure under the car attempting to remove the differential while it was on jack stands so I built a set of stackable, interlocking wooden cribbing boxes to support the car and also several to put under the floor jack to raise the car about 20 inches off the ground giving me more ample room to work and providing a rock solid, non-slip support for the car. In removing the four nuts securing the differential to the frame I needed an 18" cheater pipe on the 1/2" drive breaker bar to loosen them. When I thought all was going smoothly the seemed to get hard to turn again & then came out more easily. The exposed ends of the studs were so badly peened & rusted that I actually removed the studs from the differential case. New studs & nuts will replace them on reassembly.

 

After removing the exhaust pipe as a unit and beginning to remove the drive shaft I discovered that my tool box lacked the 41mm & 46 mm wrenches to loosen the nuts that secure the front & rear drive shaft sections. Order from Ebay. The rubber of the drive shaft support bearing was almost completely disintegrated and the transmission support had many radial cracks in the rubber so these were ordered & that task added to the work order. Also noted the absence of both automatic transmission shift linkage bushings. Thankfully both flex discs were in excellent condition.

 

While getting the rear wheels off to remove the axles I noticed that the left parking brake shoes had only a paper thin coating of brake material and on inspecting the right side I found only the badly rusted remains of the brake shoe minus any vestige of brake material. I added those to the outgoing order for rear wheel bearing/seal kits. I have removed the wheel hubs, seals & inner/outer bearing outer races. The bearings are in good condition at 250,000+ miles but since everything is apart and the crush washer needs to be replaced on reassembly it just made sense to replace the wheel bearings and install new grease. The hubs & the differential are going tomorrow to have work done at the shop and then reassembly begins!! Until then there are some sections of floor pan to replace, trunk wheel wells to patch and various other rusted nastiness to fix. I see a MIG welder in my future...I'm not happy pop riveting to repair body panels and even though I can stick weld thin metal with 1/16" 6013 rods the MIG makes it so much easier.

 

The FSM that I downloaded with help from the group, the Peachparts forum DIY archive and questions answered here have been really helpful in getting this far. Thanks to all. Now, if I can just get it all back together!!!!

 

Blaise

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Attachment(s) from bgiovan

2 of 2 Photo(s)

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[diesel_mercedes] Help. Someone, apparently from this list, trying to contact me privately

 

Someone, apparently from this group, has been trying to contact me privately and wants to have a phone conversation. I do not know this person and am leary of such advances. The name is Kathy Lagoli and I have had strange email responses from her server. And she has emailed me from two different email addresses. I cannot find her email address or name anywhere on the group members list. Has anyone else had such a contact? I don't mind helping someone who is legitimate. But this is the internet and paranoia is my friend here. Can the group moderator perhaps help in identifying this person as a long standing and legitimate member of this group?

Thanks in advance,
Bogy.

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] RE : _STILL_ Need A Roofer !

 

Nate,
I don't know if this will help you but this is the strategy I recently used to find a plumber...I drove around a heavily populated area until I found a "mom and pop" kind of operation and got the owner to come over and look at it; he gave me an estimate of $200. The other guys gave me a "minimum estimate' of $950.  The other possible way  is to find an employee of a larger firm to do it on his off time. ... he may even have a sheet of membrane from an old job.
 
BTW, it is not too difficult to install them, FWIW. 
 
The small guys are very competitive and don't spend a loton advertising, getting work by word of mouth.  I had to get a licensed guy to install the plumbing as the code requires a permit for apt buildings in these parts.
 

--- On Thu, 4/7/11, Nate <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Nate <vwnate1@yahoo.com>
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] RE : _STILL_ Need A Roofer !
To: "Replies 126DieselList" <126diesel@yahoogroups.com>, "diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>, "RepliesSoCalTT" <socaltt@yahoogroups.com>, "REPLIES CRETINSyahoolist" <2WheelSocialClub@yahoogroups.com>, "VJLA YahooGroup REPLIES" <vjlamc@yahoogroups.com>, "Tam Hall" <audiolaw@aol.com>
Date: Thursday, April 7, 2011, 1:51 PM




O.K. , so last night a very nice older gentleman came by and said he'd go take a look , I told him I had just put on a totally new hot mop roof , new supports , new wood etc. and I wanted a _MEMBRANE_ roof , did he know what a membrane roof is and what I want ? . he said yes , yes , no worries , he's been doing roofing for 40 years now , he just needs to go look to give me an accurate estimate .

After he'd been up there wandering around for 35 minutes , I climbed the ladder to see he'd _CUT_A_FUCKING_HOLE_ in  my new roof and was puzzledly looking down through the fresh tar paper and tar at the new wood and wondering what the hell I wanted.....

He didn't know what a membrane roof is and I guess was too embarrassed to ask so instead he ruined my new $17,000 roof.....

The hole is of course, directly over my bed , the same place  it began leaking before when the old roof collapsed during a torrential rainstorm . yes , he smeared it shut with some glop .

SO ; _PLEASE_ help me out here ! there _HAS_ to be someone in So. Cal. who knows what and how to apply , a membrane roof coating to a flat roof....

TIA ,

-Nate
.



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: RE : _STILL_ Need A Roofer !

 

Make sure you get a compatible material. Rubber roofs are degraded by asphalt fumes or tar

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From: "c24052000" <jcrcpa@tx.rr.com>
Sender: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thu, 07 Apr 2011 21:41:43 -0000
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
ReplyTo: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: RE : _STILL_ Need A Roofer !

 

I went to this link:
http://www.askthebuilder.com/B200_Membrane_Roofing_Types.shtml

Take the roofer to your computer and show him the data. Hopefully he will fix it.
Chuck

This is what I found. All new to me.

There are three major types of flexible roofing membranes. All of them are fairly complex and some have names that you can barely pronounce. I happen to like the products in the first group - those being the Thermoset types.

Thermoset Membranes

These materials are ones that chemically crosslink. What that means to you is that once seams cure you have one giant molecule of roofing over your head and possessions. That is a huge advantage. Many of the synthetic rubber roofs (EPDM) fall into this category. You also find the CSPE, CR, and ECR compounds/membranes in this group. These membranes are fairly thick and often you will find them in thicknesses between 30 and 60 mils. These roofing materials offer superior performance over a wide range of exposures. If applied according to manufacturers recommendations, they will give you leak free performance for many, many years.

Thermoplastic Membranes

These membranes are very similar to the Thermosets but there is no chemical cross-linking or vulcanization. Seams in the materials are welded together with solvents or heat. The welds - when done properly - are as strong as the material.

PVC plastic materials are part of this group as well as the following materials: CPA, CPE, EIP, NBP, PIB, and TPO. These are "code" acronyms you might hear the roofer talk about. Be sure to ask exactly what type of material you are getting so you can see which group it falls into!

Modified Bitumen Membranes

These membranes combine asphalt with modifiers and reinforcement materials. They are often a "sandwiched" roofing material. These materials can perform well in my opinion but they are not as advanced as the other two groups. These materials are often referred to as "torch-down" roofs because a large flame throwing torch melts the asphalt so that seams can be joined together. You might hear your roofer mention the names APP or SBS when referring to this membrane.

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] progress? report

 

Thanks Brian. I've gotten to love this old diesel and think this wonderful piece of engineering ought to be returned to it's former status & not left to disintegrate.
Blaise

From: BStromsoe <bstromsoe@yahoo.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, April 7, 2011 7:59:36 PM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] progress? report

 

Marvelous. We be proud of you.
 
brian from la verne, ca


From: Blaise Colasante <supervee03@yahoo.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, April 7, 2011 4:50:51 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] progress? report

 

Well, there's truth in the addage "There's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes"!!

Blaise

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] progress? report

 

Marvelous. We be proud of you.
 
brian from la verne, ca


From: Blaise Colasante <supervee03@yahoo.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, April 7, 2011 4:50:51 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] progress? report

 

Well, there's truth in the addage "There's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes"!!

Blaise

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[diesel_mercedes] progress? report

 

Well, there's truth in the addage "There's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes"!! A year ago I removed the rear windshield & replaced the seal to stop water getting into my trunk. I also replaced the trunk seal for good measure as it was showing evidence of yielding to the elements in the near term. A few months ago I started loosing power on slight inclines & discovered the dreaded black fuel fungus had taken up residence in my fuel tank. It was BAD so I decided to drop the fuel tank and get it boiled out at the radiator shop.

 

While draining the tank I noticed fuel dripping from the left rear control arm. Fuel supply line was nearly rusted through where it goes over the control arm and had broken during efforts to remove the tank. The fuel return line & brake line were in similarly bad condition. Better to make this discovery in the driveway at home than anywhere else! I also had the opportunity to observe that the CV joint boots were badly torn, devoid of essential lubrication & also in need of replacement. Not knowing the condition of said CV joints I determined to order two new axles & replace the entire units. After the old axles were out I could inspect the CV joints to decide on their ultimate fate. Of course at that time the weather here in the NE was beginning its seasonal decline into winter which would put said projects on hold until spring as I have no indoor facilities to accomplish these efforts.

 

At Christmas a friend with a two bay tractor trailer garage who uses one bay for his manufacturing business had me over to see his shop. Taking note that he has an entirely empty bay I asked if I could bring my ailing old 300D into the bay to do some repairs that would otherwise have to wait for warmer weather. We decided I could trade assistance to his business in trade for accomodations for the Mercedes.

 

I plumbed a 1 gallon empty oil jug into the fuel system under the hood as a short distance fuel tank (since the fuel tank had not been reinstalled & the fuel lines had not been replaced) & drove the 3 miles from home to the shop. In our spacious, heated & well lit accomodations the axles were readily removed and the fuel lines removed & duplicated (yes, I did use a bubble flare tool to make the connections for the master cylinder and the rear Tee connection). In removing the axles it was determined that it would be prudent to replace the axle seals in the differential. The pinion seal was also found wanting. Since I don't have the tools to remove the pinion shaft seal & check and reset the pinion shaft preload I decided to drop the rear and get it to a small independent Mercedes shop to accomplish this.

 

I didn't feel secure under the car attempting to remove the differential while it was on jack stands so I built a set of stackable, interlocking wooden cribbing boxes to support the car and also several to put under the floor jack to raise the car about 20 inches off the ground giving me more ample room to work and providing a rock solid, non-slip support for the car. In removing the four nuts securing the differential to the frame I needed an 18" cheater pipe on the 1/2" drive breaker bar to loosen them. When I thought all was going smoothly the seemed to get hard to turn again & then came out more easily. The exposed ends of the studs were so badly peened & rusted that I actually removed the studs from the differential case. New studs & nuts will replace them on reassembly.

 

After removing the exhaust pipe as a unit and beginning to remove the drive shaft I discovered that my tool box lacked the 41mm & 46 mm wrenches to loosen the nuts that secure the front & rear drive shaft sections. Order from Ebay. The rubber of the drive shaft support bearing was almost completely disintegrated and the transmission support had many radial cracks in the rubber so these were ordered & that task added to the work order. Also noted the absence of both automatic transmission shift linkage bushings. Thankfully both flex discs were in excellent condition.

 

While getting the rear wheels off to remove the axles I noticed that the left parking brake shoes had only a paper thin coating of brake material and on inspecting the right side I found only the badly rusted remains of the brake shoe minus any vestige of brake material. I added those to the outgoing order for rear wheel bearing/seal kits. I have removed the wheel hubs, seals & inner/outer bearing outer races. The bearings are in good condition at 250,000+ miles but since everything is apart and the crush washer needs to be replaced on reassembly it just made sense to replace the wheel bearings and install new grease. The hubs & the differential are going tomorrow to have work done at the shop and then reassembly begins!! Until then there are some sections of floor pan to replace, trunk wheel wells to patch and various other rusted nastiness to fix. I see a MIG welder in my future...I'm not happy pop riveting to repair body panels and even though I can stick weld thin metal with 1/16" 6013 rods the MIG makes it so much easier.

 

The FSM that I downloaded with help from the group, the Peachparts forum DIY archive and questions answered here have been really helpful in getting this far. Thanks to all. Now, if I can just get it all back together!!!!

 

Blaise

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Doing some R&D need your help

 

Nate, If this is so I can't imagine how you get the mileage you claim considering your driving habits!!
Blaise

From: Nate <vwnate1@yahoo.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, April 7, 2011 8:44:54 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Doing some R&D need your help

 

 the *instant* you go faster than 60 MPH , the fuel economy drops off sharply.... down into the low 20's in fact , remember this .

-Nate

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: RE : _STILL_ Need A Roofer !

 

I went to this link:
http://www.askthebuilder.com/B200_Membrane_Roofing_Types.shtml

Take the roofer to your computer and show him the data. Hopefully he will fix it.
Chuck

This is what I found. All new to me.

There are three major types of flexible roofing membranes. All of them are fairly complex and some have names that you can barely pronounce. I happen to like the products in the first group - those being the Thermoset types.

Thermoset Membranes

These materials are ones that chemically crosslink. What that means to you is that once seams cure you have one giant molecule of roofing over your head and possessions. That is a huge advantage. Many of the synthetic rubber roofs (EPDM) fall into this category. You also find the CSPE, CR, and ECR compounds/membranes in this group. These membranes are fairly thick and often you will find them in thicknesses between 30 and 60 mils. These roofing materials offer superior performance over a wide range of exposures. If applied according to manufacturers recommendations, they will give you leak free performance for many, many years.

Thermoplastic Membranes

These membranes are very similar to the Thermosets but there is no chemical cross-linking or vulcanization. Seams in the materials are welded together with solvents or heat. The welds - when done properly - are as strong as the material.

PVC plastic materials are part of this group as well as the following materials: CPA, CPE, EIP, NBP, PIB, and TPO. These are "code" acronyms you might hear the roofer talk about. Be sure to ask exactly what type of material you are getting so you can see which group it falls into!

Modified Bitumen Membranes

These membranes combine asphalt with modifiers and reinforcement materials. They are often a "sandwiched" roofing material. These materials can perform well in my opinion but they are not as advanced as the other two groups. These materials are often referred to as "torch-down" roofs because a large flame throwing torch melts the asphalt so that seams can be joined together. You might hear your roofer mention the names APP or SBS when referring to this membrane.

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[diesel_mercedes] RE : _STILL_ Need A Roofer !

 


I called him on the advice of a friend .

I'm sure this gentleman could do a fine job of re shingling a peaked roof but that's not what I have nor need...

-Nate
Stan wrote:
>
>
>
> I don't do business with anyone who calls me or knocks on my door. If I
> can't do it myself I will search out the best company available. I
> can't even depend on recommendations from friends because they don't
> always know when they have be swindled. They are usually happy with
> what they don't know.
>
> --
> Stan George Portland <<
>

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