| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (2) |
| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (3) |
My W121, 1961 190Db, had M10x1.0
From:
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 4:26 PM
To:
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Brake line / hose connector screwed up
PB Blaster yesterday. Heat from a torch lighter this morning. Vice grips slipped off a dozen times before it finally broke loose. All I had to do was to loosen it so I could straighten out the extra loop in the hose, then tighten it back up, which I was able to do. In a few years I will probably curse my former self if I ever need to take this thing apart again. Thanks everyone for your help.
In the mean time, I learned a bit about brake lines and connectors. These old diesels use the "bubble flare" aka "DIN flare" aka "ISO flare" aka "DIN/ISO flare" whatever...apparently they are 4.75 mm lines and 3/16" is close enough to substitute without issues. If that is wrong, someone please post a correction.
Excellent FAQ here:
http://store.fedhillusa.com/technicalhelphowtopdfs.aspx
Apparently, flaring tools are available at a number of places, including many McParts stores and ebay.
To repair a section of brake line, it looks like you cut out the bad spot, get a suitable piece of 3/16" hose (or 4.75mm if you really want to be perfect), make a replacement section with a flaring tool and then use unions to piece everything back together.
I'm glad I didn't have to do this LOL but probably one day I will if I keep on driving these old diesels.
Jim
| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (10) |
PB Blaster yesterday. Heat from a torch lighter this morning. Vice grips slipped off a dozen times before it finally broke loose. All I had to do was to loosen it so I could straighten out the extra loop in the hose, then tighten it back up, which I was able to do. In a few years I will probably curse my former self if I ever need to take this thing apart again. Thanks everyone for your help.
In the mean time, I learned a bit about brake lines and connectors. These old diesels use the "bubble flare" aka "DIN flare" aka "ISO flare" aka "DIN/ISO flare" whatever...apparently they are 4.75 mm lines and 3/16" is close enough to substitute without issues. If that is wrong, someone please post a correction.
Excellent FAQ here:
http://store.fedhillusa.com/technicalhelphowtopdfs.aspx
Apparently, flaring tools are available at a number of places, including many McParts stores and ebay.
To repair a section of brake line, it looks like you cut out the bad spot, get a suitable piece of 3/16" hose (or 4.75mm if you really want to be perfect), make a replacement section with a flaring tool and then use unions to piece everything back together.
I'm glad I didn't have to do this LOL but probably one day I will if I keep on driving these old diesels.
Jim
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Alan Boucher <alstheone@...> wrote:
>
> Since I'm assuming that you were planning on replacing at least the hose,
> try some heat from a very small torch flame applied to the metal end of the
> hose, even the heat from a propane or butane torch would usually cause the
> hose end to expand enough to allow you to loosen the nut. First soak the
> line above the nut and and the hose connection liberally with Liquid Stench
> or whatever solvent that works for you. The other problem in a situation
> like this is that the nut has rusted to the tube and turning the nut will
> twist the tube. Before heating the area, be sure to wipe off all of the
> residual liquid, and as always, when working with flames under a car, keep
> some kind of fire extinguisher handy. If you can get it apart, the
> condition of the hex on the nut doesn't really matter as long as you can
> get enough of a grip on it with a vise grip or whatever to tighten it.
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 16, 2013 at 6:10 PM, Nate <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> >
> > German cars tend to have sheet metal clips holding the hose in place then
> > the steel line screws into it , you have the loosen the line then carefully
> > remove the sheet metal clip to get it all apart .
> >
> > Pic would help here .
> >
> > I wish I could be more specific but am not sure what you're working on @
> > there should be two rear brakes hoses as the suspension is independent .
> >
> > -Nate
> > Jim wrote :
> > >
> > > OK what do I do now? The rear brake hose on my W123 won't come loose
> > from the brake line. The bolt head is shot and it's stuck so tight I can't
> > get it apart even with vice grips. I've never cut/repaired a brake line
> > before. I don't know what sizes these things are, where to get parts and
> > tools, never patched a brake line before. I'm guessing if I'm lucky I can
> > get the bolt out of the brake hose by mangling it beyond recognition with
> > vice grips, but I wanted to have tools etc on hand to fix it right then.
> > Maybe I can cut off the flare, slip on a new bolt, and re-flare the line?
> > Anyone know where I can get the stuff to do this with?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Jim
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (9) |
| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (5) |
| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (2) |
I just scrolled through the membership list. Currently, 1552 people are still with us. Taran Reese put it together in 1999 - thanks Taran. Lot of interesting things have happened along the way. Tirades, goof balls, cars that came and went - but always threads about radiators, alternators, shocks, fuel filters, tires, vacuum lines, fuses, etc., etc., etc.
How about some of you who were here in the beginning posting a "hi, I am still alive" comment so we can salute you.
brian from la verne
| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (1) |
Alan,
I have not tried it on brake lines, but for most bolts, P B Blaster works better than Liquid Wrench. Spray it on, hit it one sharp blow with a hammer, wait a few minutes and try to unscrew,
(The design of the P B Blaster can is terrible. If I had not received a strong recommendation, I would have never bought it - it looks amateurish,)
BobbyOn Tue, Apr 16, 2013 at 8:04 PM, Alan Boucher <alstheone@verizon.net> wrote:Since I'm assuming that you were planning on replacing at least the hose, try some heat from a very small torch flame applied to the metal end of the hose, even the heat from a propane or butane torch would usually cause the hose end to expand enough to allow you to loosen the nut. First soak the line above the nut and and the hose connection liberally with Liquid Stench or whatever solvent that works for you. The other problem in a situation like this is that the nut has rusted to the tube and turning the nut will twist the tube. Before heating the area, be sure to wipe off all of the residual liquid, and as always, when working with flames under a car, keep some kind of fire extinguisher handy. If you can get it apart, the condition of the hex on the nut doesn't really matter as long as you can get enough of a grip on it with a vise grip or whatever to tighten it.On Tue, Apr 16, 2013 at 6:10 PM, Nate <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:
German cars tend to have sheet metal clips holding the hose in place then the steel line screws into it , you have the loosen the line then carefully remove the sheet metal clip to get it all apart .
Pic would help here .
I wish I could be more specific but am not sure what you're working on @ there should be two rear brakes hoses as the suspension is independent .
-Nate
Jim wrote :
>
> OK what do I do now? The rear brake hose on my W123 won't come loose from the brake line. The bolt head is shot and it's stuck so tight I can't get it apart even with vice grips. I've never cut/repaired a brake line before. I don't know what sizes these things are, where to get parts and tools, never patched a brake line before. I'm guessing if I'm lucky I can get the bolt out of the brake hose by mangling it beyond recognition with vice grips, but I wanted to have tools etc on hand to fix it right then. Maybe I can cut off the flare, slip on a new bolt, and re-flare the line? Anyone know where I can get the stuff to do this with?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
>
--
Toward freedom,
Bobby Yates Emory
| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (7) |
New life for an old dog.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQjtWIuf0YE&feature=em-subs_digest-vrecs
brian from laverne
| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (1) |
Alan,
I have not tried it on brake lines, but for most bolts, P B Blaster works better than Liquid Wrench. Spray it on, hit it one sharp blow with a hammer, wait a few minutes and try to unscrew,
(The design of the P B Blaster can is terrible. If I had not received a strong recommendation, I would have never bought it - it looks amateurish,)
Bobby
Since I'm assuming that you were planning on replacing at least the hose, try some heat from a very small torch flame applied to the metal end of the hose, even the heat from a propane or butane torch would usually cause the hose end to expand enough to allow you to loosen the nut. First soak the line above the nut and and the hose connection liberally with Liquid Stench or whatever solvent that works for you. The other problem in a situation like this is that the nut has rusted to the tube and turning the nut will twist the tube. Before heating the area, be sure to wipe off all of the residual liquid, and as always, when working with flames under a car, keep some kind of fire extinguisher handy. If you can get it apart, the condition of the hex on the nut doesn't really matter as long as you can get enough of a grip on it with a vise grip or whatever to tighten it.On Tue, Apr 16, 2013 at 6:10 PM, Nate <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:
German cars tend to have sheet metal clips holding the hose in place then the steel line screws into it , you have the loosen the line then carefully remove the sheet metal clip to get it all apart .
Pic would help here .
I wish I could be more specific but am not sure what you're working on @ there should be two rear brakes hoses as the suspension is independent .
-Nate
Jim wrote :
>
> OK what do I do now? The rear brake hose on my W123 won't come loose from the brake line. The bolt head is shot and it's stuck so tight I can't get it apart even with vice grips. I've never cut/repaired a brake line before. I don't know what sizes these things are, where to get parts and tools, never patched a brake line before. I'm guessing if I'm lucky I can get the bolt out of the brake hose by mangling it beyond recognition with vice grips, but I wanted to have tools etc on hand to fix it right then. Maybe I can cut off the flare, slip on a new bolt, and re-flare the line? Anyone know where I can get the stuff to do this with?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
>
| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (6) |
