[diesel_mercedes] Slow, sluggish, old fashioned!
Re: [diesel_mercedes] Radius Arm bushing (trailing arm?) part number needed
Mercedes Benz Classic Center USA
MBUSA, LLC
thomas.hanson@mbusa.com
949 598-4842 direct
949 598-4870 fax
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2012 2:36 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Radius Arm bushing (trailing arm?) part number needed
No one in the area can locate the part, any one know of a mfg and part number that I might be able to bring the locals so they can source it ?
This is the rod that goes from the A-Arm to the frame behind the front wheel. its the bushing at the frame that need replacement.
Many thanks,
Steve
[diesel_mercedes] Re: '81 300 SD. Not the battery, but a vacuum line...any effect on shifting?
first step: tighten the cables to the battery.
Chuck
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Trish Dougherty <purrfectharmonyfarm@...> wrote:
>
> YEA! She starts and turns off!
>
> For the last couple of weeks my battery light has blinked on/off. I
> thought it was just more of the electrical gremlins these cars tend to
> have. Then a couple of times it wouldn't start. I'd switch it off, then on
> again and she started right up.
>
> The other day I was getting ready for a job interview, I opened the windows
> to air it out, heard the CD playing too. I got ready to leave, nothing.
> Not even a click. I did the key jiggle thing. I took it out. I turned it
> off and on. Nothing.
>
> Also over the last few times I've driven I've noticed that I kind of have
> to encourage the shifter into place. It used to work smooth and perfect.
>
> I don't know if the two are related.
>
> I had a feeling it was a vacuum line. We dinked with the car for a while,
> Kevin got it to start, but it wouldn't turn off even with the key removed.
> He finally found an electrical taped mess of a line that had a slit. He
> repaired it and the car starts and turns off now!
>
> Too hot to work on it any longer. The only way to know if it had anything
> to do with the shifter is to drive it. Now it's time for a/c, a snack, some
> old movies and maybe a nap.
>
>
>
> '81 300 SD frakencar
> Trish Dougherty
> PurrFect Harmony Farm
> Ennis, TX
> http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com
>
[diesel_mercedes] Re: Re : Reverse light switch location
Thanks for the tips. It looks like iut was an adjustment, or the selector piece on the switch was out of place with the selector on the transmission.
I pulled the switch apart and it was incredibly clean inside. I was amazed with something that is on the exterier of the car, there was a nice rubber gasket sealing it. While appart I could see what connections it made and it tested good.
Put it together and back on the car, snug, hoping for the best, fearing the worst.
It worked, tightened it up, retest still good.
Last things for inspection are rear muffler, have a straight pipe as the muffler broke right at the weld. Its still really quite, but the shop is giving me a hard time. Much quiter than the owners 50's chevy and employees 4X4 trucks. Have a bosel muffler on order with Advance Auto Parts - online $115, found a $40 off $100 coupon.
Supporting joints are on the way also.
Looks like I will need to go about 3K Miles on Veggie to get even.
STeve
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
>
> It's on the left hand side of the tranny proper , a combination switch that's in the narrowest place between the tranny and the unibody , you need to twist a lock ring before the electric plug comes off .
>
> Then you'll need a 90 degree tool to remove the screws , not a really fun job IMO .
>
> Have you tried testing it by backing up to a glass fronted building @ night and s l o w l y moving the shfit lever through the gears to see if the B.U. lights blink momentarily ? .
>
> Some times the shifter linkage bushing gets worn out or falls apart , leaving the switch un able to align properly .
>
> Did you personally remove and replace both back up light bulbs ? .
>
> -Nate
> Steve wrote:
> >
> > Any one know where the reverse light switch is located.
> >
> > 80-84 300D Automatic trans
> >
> > Another one of the items I was tagged for during the inspection.
> > Did not fine it under the shifter cover. Is it on or in the trans ?
> >
> > Is there a relay also ?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Steve
> >
>
[diesel_mercedes] Trish Has Fun !!
Glad to hear it turns off O.K. ~ fixing those vacuum leaks will make one of these cars stop with a jerk instead of the usual slowly puttering out .
FWIW , the charging lamp on the dashboard rarely flickers or goes out when your alternator is kaputi so I'd make a point of putting a volt meter across the battery terminals A.S.A.P. before you miss a job interview ~ if it only charges up to 13 VDC you're good to go but if it's stuck around 12 volts DC even with the lights Et Al off , you need to address it RIGHT NOW because you can't push start it .
The good thing is : if it's not charging , you needn't $pend much $$ , as the alternator proper rarely poop out , it's just the brushes and they're simple to change @ home and co$t under $35.00 , far less if you buy the crappo brush set & regulator from your local FLAPS ~
Most FLAPS these days carry or can get , STANDARD IGNITION brand parts , the regulator and brush set if # VR-134 , VR-179 , VR-471 , VR-473 , VR-476 VR-485 .
These are all interchangable so find one on the shelf locally and be sure to match it up with the old one before getting it or the box greasy .
Two screws remove and install it to the back of the alternator , Kevin (or you !) should be able to do it from underneath in a half hour or so .
Before anything else , CHECK THE CHARGING VOLTAGE , no special tools , just any old DC volt meter that reaches 15 VDC will do .
If it's charging @ 13 + VDC , the blinking charge light is not the alternator nor brushes so leave them alone & look for loose / mangled wires .
I hope this helps .
-Nate
Trish Wrote :
YEA! She starts and turns off!
For the last couple of weeks my battery light has blinked on/off. I thought it was just more of the electrical gremlins these cars tend to have. Then a couple of times it wouldn't start. I'd switch it off, then on again and she started right up.
The other day I was getting ready for a job interview, I opened the windows to air it out, heard the CD playing too. I got ready to leave, nothing. Not even a click. I did the key jiggle thing. I took it out. I turned it off and on. Nothing.
Also over the last few times I've driven I've noticed that I kind of have to encourage the shifter into place. It used to work smooth and perfect.
I don't know if the two are related.
I had a feeling it was a vacuum line. We dinked with the car for a while, Kevin got it to start, but it wouldn't turn off even with the key removed. He finally found an electrical taped mess of a line that had a slit. He repaired it and the car starts and turns off now!
Too hot to work on it any longer. The only way to know if it had anything to do with the shifter is to drive it. Now it's time for a/c, a snack, some old movies and maybe a nap.
'81 300 SD frakencar
Trish
[diesel_mercedes] Re : Auto Repair
The difference Jim ;
I that your guy is in fact an honest to God _Mechanic_, not a parts changer....
He prolly gets satisfaction from putting things right by his own hands .
-Nate
Jim wrote:
>
> When I got my 84 300D, one of the rear window regulator rigs had a missing gear tooth or three. My mechanic took it out, welded a similar piece of metal to where the tooth/teeth were missing, and then cut and ground the new piece of metal into new teeth. It only took him a few minutes and it has worked like brand-new ever since. He acted like I was crazy for talking about buying a new part for it.
>
> Jim
>
>
>
>
