Caitlin, This stuff may be a matter of relativity. What seems slow to you may not seem slow to others. An easy check for your thermostat (definitely NOT definitive) is how the car runs when its fully warmed up. The temperature gauge should hover around the 80 mark. If it gets to 80 or above, it indicates that the thermostat is regulating water flow to provide adequate running temperature - hence working thermostat. If it never gets up to 80, the thermostat is staying open all the time and is, therefore, bad. A clogged up coolant system, that needs a flush, will tend to run hotter than a clean system that is able to flow more water through the engine and the radiator. So if your system hasn't been flushed in recent history, that's not going to slow down the warming. If the thermostat is holding proper operating temperature, then I'd say wait until warmer weather returns before poking around with it. There can be issues with replacing the thermostat and closing up the system without getting trapped air pockets. Better to deal with that stuff when you're not freezing your patuti off everytime water splashes on it. Thermostats are NOT expensive parts. And they are neither complicated nor particularly fragile. Get one now and play with it in a pan of hot water on your stove. Use a cooking thermometer and heat it in a pan of water. Watch how it opens in hot water and closes again as it cools. Little stuff like this can help you understand the mechanics of your systems much more clearly. Tom In a message dated 12/5/2011 6:17:43 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, tinymachine@gmail.com writes:
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Mark in Lakewood, CO" <beeser750@...> wrote:
> Valve adjustment won't help the warm-up time. Of all the cars I've owned, the dozen or so MB's distinguished themselves for being fast warmer-uppers, so, something is amiss here. Has the thermostat been checked/changed recently?
Coolant is dirty and tired...desperately needs a flush...could that have anything to do with it? No idea on the thermostat itself, is there a way for me to check it? I know those are fairly inexpensive...it's on my list of things to do just so I KNOW when it's "new", but it's farther down the list.
Caitlin, Santa Fe
Have been offered a '77 300D for parts, it is a non turbo. Is it worth getting for the parts, it is about 100 miles away from home, and the steering column was removed but otherwise the car is intact. Would love to have a parts car ( the one with the bear damage did not work out)
Tony.
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Mark in Lakewood, CO" <beeser750@...> wrote:
> Valve adjustment won't help the warm-up time. Of all the cars I've owned, the dozen or so MB's distinguished themselves for being fast warmer-uppers, so, something is amiss here. Has the thermostat been checked/changed recently?
Coolant is dirty and tired...desperately needs a flush...could that have anything to do with it? No idea on the thermostat itself, is there a way for me to check it? I know those are fairly inexpensive...it's on my list of things to do just so I KNOW when it's "new", but it's farther down the list.
Caitlin, Santa Fe
Geez I can't believe that with all that talk, not one person has come up with solid experience in swapping out for a turbo...or at least no one will admit it.
My car '81 300D. Donor car 80' 300 SD. I have the motor and trans. I know the exhaust needs an extension.
Fun? Hahaha....come on down to TX! We could use the help! There's more than enough private, free places to stay. The car is sitting in the shop of the 500 acre church camp where Kevin works. There are 40 buildings of cabins, bunk houses, and others. Plus about 40 hotel rooms. A full kitchen, with service when there are people in camp. When they don't serve, we go in and make our own food. We'll be working on the swap while camp is shut down for the holidays.
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com
Have been offered a '77 300D for parts, it is a non turbo. Is it worth getting for the parts, it is about 100 miles away from home, and the steering column was removed but otherwise the car is intact. Would love to have a parts car ( the one with the bear damage did not work out)
Tony.
BTW getting the car detailed her in Mazatlan today, they are gonna try and buff out the scratches that the idiot (moi) put on the body.
Then next month will probably get the car painted - at least the lower body up to the rub trim.
As of last week the cruise control is working, door locks working and eng running smoother (valve adjust)
Lovin the car more each day.
Some pics mostly of the kids around here.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/technicotony/sets/72157628288368901/show/
Geez I can't believe that with all that talk, not one person has come up with solid experience in swapping out for a turbo...or at least no one will admit it.
My car '81 300D. Donor car 80' 300 SD. I have the motor and trans. I know the exhaust needs an extension.
Fun? Hahaha....come on down to TX! We could use the help! There's more than enough private, free places to stay. The car is sitting in the shop of the 500 acre church camp where Kevin works. There are 40 buildings of cabins, bunk houses, and others. Plus about 40 hotel rooms. A full kitchen, with service when there are people in camp. When they don't serve, we go in and make our own food. We'll be working on the swap while camp is shut down for the holidays.
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Mark in Lakewood, CO" <beeser750@...> wrote:
> Valve adjustment won't help the warm-up time. Of all the cars I've owned, the dozen or so MB's distinguished themselves for being fast warmer-uppers, so, something is amiss here. Has the thermostat been checked/changed recently?
Coolant is dirty and tired...desperately needs a flush...could that have anything to do with it? No idea on the thermostat itself, is there a way for me to check it? I know those are fairly inexpensive...it's on my list of things to do just so I KNOW when it's "new", but it's farther down the list.
Caitlin, Santa Fe
Just don't do it at a rest stop.
Mark,
What a great recommendation. While everyone up north is trying to crank up, I am trying to shut down.
You suggest a rather elegant solution; but for social purpose I think I will use a mite vac.
Chip
Still running in Houston
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Mark in Lakewood, CO" <beeser750@...> wrote:
>
> Cutting off the fuel is the best way to go. If the fuel cut-off on the IP is OK, run a length of vacuum hose from it through the firewall. Suck on said hose to shut it down....
>
>
>
Mark,
What a great recommendation. While everyone up north is trying to crank up, I am trying to shut down.
You suggest a rather elegant solution; but for social purpose I think I will use a mite vac.
Chip
Still running in Houston
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Mark in Lakewood, CO" <beeser750@...> wrote:
>
> Cutting off the fuel is the best way to go. If the fuel cut-off on the IP is OK, run a length of vacuum hose from it through the firewall. Suck on said hose to shut it down....
>
>
>
I don't expect many on this board to own up to this, but there are occasions when I can't shut off my car. In fact, there are frequent occasions when I can't shut it down. Many of these occasions are of a nature that would leave me without my pride in tact if I had to exit my car, open the hood and choke the motor down.
It is because of this frequency of occurrence that I wanted to get some fresh ideas on how to shut her off and not get out of my drivers seat and not do anything two humiliating in the process of stopping the diesel.
The best I have come up with so far is to put it in low, with my brake on and floor the gas, it will rev for a few seconds, but begin to sputter, I back of the gas and she goes dead. This is not always a reliable killing.
Are there better techniques out there to assist in this problem?
And yes, I know, I should be finding the leaks and fixing them; but I am looking for interim solutions here.
Chip
Houston
Hi Mark...it was about 18F this morning...and all the way up to about a whopping 23F now. Need to start the car in about an hour. She's doing great at starting, just rough while cold and takes long to warm up ... so, valve adjustment? ;)
Speaking of finny diesels, this one in Pagosa ain't near as pretty...BUT...even though I am a total n00b, I already have the diesel disease...
http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/cto/2729428585.html
Good thing I have NO cash right now, or I'd probably be in for trouble with SWMBO....
Stay warm...
Caitlin, Santa Fe
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Mark in Lakewood, CO" <beeser750@...> wrote:
>
> What was the morning temperature down there this morning? It was +5 degrees F up here. No going out to visit finny diesels in Julesburg for me today....
>
>
> It sounds like you've pretty much got it down. Each car is a little different. Keep fine tuning your procedure (AND get the valves adjusted), and you'll be starting at temperatures where many gassers fail.
>
>
> BTW, the cam lobe should be facing up (12 o'clock position), and the feeler guage goes between the bottom of the lobe (6 o'clock position) and the cam follower (aka "rocker arm"). Yeah, it'll be an "AHA!" moment once you get the cam cover off and see what's in there.
>
>
> Mark in Lakewood, CO
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "CaitlinDean" <tinymachine@...>
> To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, December 5, 2011 10:03:27 AM
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Cold Startin'...glow plug relay "clunk"
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Alrighty...the fine tuning continues!
>
> What I have been doing is 3 full cycles, then glowing again only until the light goes off and cranking with full pedal until all cylinders fire (fairly quickly I *think*) then backing off throttle until JUST enough fuel for a purr until warmed up. No revving results, and hopefully my plugs have stayed hot.
>
> NOW...I'll try what you say below...one full cycle, plus the light cycle, then 1/2 throttle.
>
> I don't want to be wearing and tearing more than I have to!
>
> Thanks, Nate!
> Caitlin
> Santa Fe
>
I don't expect many on this board to own up to this, but there are occasions when I can't shut off my car. In fact, there are frequent occasions when I can't shut it down. Many of these occasions are of a nature that would leave me without my pride in tact if I had to exit my car, open the hood and choke the motor down.
It is because of this frequency of occurrence that I wanted to get some fresh ideas on how to shut her off and not get out of my drivers seat and not do anything two humiliating in the process of stopping the diesel.
The best I have come up with so far is to put it in low, with my brake on and floor the gas, it will rev for a few seconds, but begin to sputter, I back of the gas and she goes dead. This is not always a reliable killing.
Are there better techniques out there to assist in this problem?
And yes, I know, I should be finding the leaks and fixing them; but I am looking for interim solutions here.
Chip
Houston
