[diesel_mercedes] Re: No Start

 

I found the glow-plug relay; it's far forward on the left side, and the cover pops off, so you can access the 80 Amp fuse and access the multi-pin connectors.

I was lazy, and tried starting it by just waiting to see if it would start--and it did; I just waited ~30 seconds, and it then started without any throttle.

Two people tried starting it and, not noticing the glow-plug light didn't light, proceeded to crank it as though it had cycled--that makes three dim bulbs!

Any idea how hard it is to get at the glow-plug light bulb?

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
>
> First thing is to get your test light and see if the glow plugs are getting any current .
>
> Then look at the rectangular black plastic box on the left inner fenderwell , the wires come out the front of it, be gentle removing the top , once you figure it out , it pops/slips right off .
>
> When I lost a glow plug relay , the light occasionally flickered but NO current made it to the glow plugs .
>
> I'd just go grab a used one , new they're $pendy little buggers .
>
> I see they can be taken apart and the contacts cleaned and polished , I got lazy and replaced mine with a used one and tossed the old dead on in the trash bin .
>
> There's a contact adjuster screw under the cover , loosen the 10 MM lock nut and use a thin flat blade screwdriver to adjust , sorry I haven't yet taught myself the correct adjusting method so be wary you don't get it stuck on and burn out your glow plugs and run the battery dead...
>
> I'm guessing you can remove the adjuster screw and maybe polish it's inner end , Tom might remind me to take one apart in P-A-P next week.
>
> -Nate
> Who Knows Who Wrote :
>
> I work on an 85 300D which suddenly quit starting, though cranking.
>
> Simultaneously, it doesn't turn on the glow plug light.
>
> Are these related?
>
> Where exactly is the glow plug relay?
>
> Apparently the 80A fuse is there, so that might be the problem...
>
> Thanks for any help...
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: How bad is swapping a rear control arm>? w123

 

On 12/19/2011 8:11 PM, ajrnemt wrote:

 

He's not interested in a swap for my rustbucket SD-- "doesn't want another car..."

This will probably slip out of my hands-- I really have other fish to fry the next few weeks..

If I get my passat back on the road, and it's still around, I may try posting a craigslist ad for my 85 SD... That would raise the needed capital, and make space for it.. If I try to hide ONE more car in NW Ohio, I'm sure they'll confine me in a mental hospital...

IF it had a heated garage-- I would go willingly for the winter. I've got so many projects that need tied up..

If someone on the board IS interested, let me know-- I'm willing to go take a peek/pics.. I've had a thing for w123's since I was a teenager, and they were "new..."

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
>
> Looks interesting BUT be aware that sometimes the rust is why the A Arms need replacing , not a simple swap but maybe mucho welding at a frame shop (maybe) .
>
> I'd go look at it for sure .
>
> It's a W-123 so maybe is an '85 ~ unless it's from Sunny Cali. (land of fruits nuts & flakes) it won't have the di$mal air filter and clogged particle trap but it _WILL_ have the wonderful improved transmission and better final drive ratio...
>
> This could well be your dream car for only $1,000 ! .
>
> -Nate
> "ajrnemt" <ajrn@> wrote:
> >
> > http://toledo.craigslist.org/bar/2759406609.html
> >
> > First-- an '86 W123?? I thought the 5cyl turbodiesel went away in '85.
> >
> > Does it mean the "different" tranny like on my '85 300SD??
> >
> > I sent him an email, offering my running rustbucket '85 300SD.
> >
> > I don't really NEED another vehicle, but this would help me "free" myself of one, even if the CD isn't currently drivable.
> >
> >
> > ...I've always wanted a CD. *sigh*
> >
>

Look at it this way, If you get enough cars you'll never have to mow the grass.

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Diagnosing Oil Leaks

 

On 12/19/2011 9:52 PM, Nate wrote:

 


Something that only leaks under full oil pressure.....

Welcome to The Mechanic's nightmare world .

-Nate
Chip wrote:
>
> Nate,
>
> Why was it that I never could get it to leak for me. I cleaned it all up and was under the car from more than a half hour with it running in the Embassy Suites parking lot. I could not get it to drip a drop.
>
> I suppose I needed to increase the rpm's to build the pressure in order to see anything. But at least by fingers, I have been over every inch of hose on the car and have found nothing. How could that be and then leak a quart of oil every 25 miles.
>
> Chip
> Windsor, NC
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Be aware that one must never , _EVER_ use carby cleaner for -anything- because it attacks & destroys rubber (hoses) and plastic (more hoses & tubes) and so will , in every case , make things far worse .
> >
> > Use cans of Engine De - Greaser , the basic stuff , NOT ' foamy ' ,
> > ' steam ' , clinging ' or other bullcrap marketing junk , just Engine Brite brand PN EB1 or similar , spray on two whole cans then allow it to soak into the oil , spray more using a soft brush to work it all around & mix up the old road grime & grease ~ allow to soak for 20 minutes _minimum_ then rinse off with plain water , a garden hose or the coil operated car wash , buying used long sleeve clothes from the Thrift Shop first is wise because as you're doing this job , you'll get covered in oil , nasty mess and it's easier to disrobe & bag up the filthy clothes than it is to clean the mess out of the car seats & doors panels .
> >
> > In a pinch , the engine oil cooler hoses can be repaired at any big rig truck shop by cutting away the round collars where the hose meets the steel pipes , this collar is a manufactured crimp clamp & once it'd cut away , the old rotten hose can be slid off the end of the steel pipe revealing a standard Metric hose nipple , get some correct size _Hydraulic_ hose and some wide , heavy duty hose clamps , measure the hose length thrice , cut once , use the clamps and motor on home .
> >
> > This will work on those golden bronze colored plastic hoses in the fueling system and IP oil feed plastic pipes too , just for God's sake , DO NOT forget to replace them with the correct parts ASAP when you arrive home .
> >
> > Tom and The Mercedes Classic Center has the right stuff that fits , is best quality and the price is discounted so you don't feel the freight charges .
> >
> > Everyone else has pretty much covered the rest so I'll just wait to hear what the trouble is .
> >
> > -Nate
> >
>

Take the easy way out. Fabricate a full engine bay pan with a sump and a return oil pump to put the oil back in the engine.  A full flow filter would be a nice addition.  The pan might even improve your fuel mileage.

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Diagnosing Oil Leaks

 


Something that only leaks under full oil pressure.....

Welcome to The Mechanic's nightmare world .

-Nate
Chip wrote:
>
> Nate,
>
> Why was it that I never could get it to leak for me. I cleaned it all up and was under the car from more than a half hour with it running in the Embassy Suites parking lot. I could not get it to drip a drop.
>
> I suppose I needed to increase the rpm's to build the pressure in order to see anything. But at least by fingers, I have been over every inch of hose on the car and have found nothing. How could that be and then leak a quart of oil every 25 miles.
>
> Chip
> Windsor, NC
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Be aware that one must never , _EVER_ use carby cleaner for -anything- because it attacks & destroys rubber (hoses) and plastic (more hoses & tubes) and so will , in every case , make things far worse .
> >
> > Use cans of Engine De - Greaser , the basic stuff , NOT ' foamy ' ,
> > ' steam ' , clinging ' or other bullcrap marketing junk , just Engine Brite brand PN EB1 or similar , spray on two whole cans then allow it to soak into the oil , spray more using a soft brush to work it all around & mix up the old road grime & grease ~ allow to soak for 20 minutes _minimum_ then rinse off with plain water , a garden hose or the coil operated car wash , buying used long sleeve clothes from the Thrift Shop first is wise because as you're doing this job , you'll get covered in oil , nasty mess and it's easier to disrobe & bag up the filthy clothes than it is to clean the mess out of the car seats & doors panels .
> >
> > In a pinch , the engine oil cooler hoses can be repaired at any big rig truck shop by cutting away the round collars where the hose meets the steel pipes , this collar is a manufactured crimp clamp & once it'd cut away , the old rotten hose can be slid off the end of the steel pipe revealing a standard Metric hose nipple , get some correct size _Hydraulic_ hose and some wide , heavy duty hose clamps , measure the hose length thrice , cut once , use the clamps and motor on home .
> >
> > This will work on those golden bronze colored plastic hoses in the fueling system and IP oil feed plastic pipes too , just for God's sake , DO NOT forget to replace them with the correct parts ASAP when you arrive home .
> >
> > Tom and The Mercedes Classic Center has the right stuff that fits , is best quality and the price is discounted so you don't feel the freight charges .
> >
> > Everyone else has pretty much covered the rest so I'll just wait to hear what the trouble is .
> >
> > -Nate
> >
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Emergency Breakdown Help

 


Glad you made it O.K. ! .

The turbo is on the _right_ side so I fail to see how this is a turbo leak.....

-Nate
Chip wrote:
>
>
>
> Well, I made it to my mechanic in NC. He will look at my car first thing in the morning. What a trip, 4 quarts of oil every 100 miles. Never let it loose oil pressure and the engine is still running great.
>
> Major worries about all the oil that has gotten under the car. I'll get it all steam cleaned while it is in the shop, but I am very nervous about all that new front suspension stuff I had just replaced. If I clean it well has the damage already been done.
>
> The entire trip, more oil came from the passenger side, but both sides of the car ended up coated in oil, just heaver on the left.
>
> I still don't have a clue where the leak is but it sure looks like it is something around the turbo.
>
> I'll check back tomorrow when I should have an answer.
>
> Chip
> Windsor, NC
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: How bad is swapping a rear control arm>? w123

 

He's not interested in a swap for my rustbucket SD-- "doesn't want another car..."

This will probably slip out of my hands-- I really have other fish to fry the next few weeks..

If I get my passat back on the road, and it's still around, I may try posting a craigslist ad for my 85 SD... That would raise the needed capital, and make space for it.. If I try to hide ONE more car in NW Ohio, I'm sure they'll confine me in a mental hospital...

IF it had a heated garage-- I would go willingly for the winter. I've got so many projects that need tied up..

If someone on the board IS interested, let me know-- I'm willing to go take a peek/pics.. I've had a thing for w123's since I was a teenager, and they were "new..."

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
>
> Looks interesting BUT be aware that sometimes the rust is why the A Arms need replacing , not a simple swap but maybe mucho welding at a frame shop (maybe) .
>
> I'd go look at it for sure .
>
> It's a W-123 so maybe is an '85 ~ unless it's from Sunny Cali. (land of fruits nuts & flakes) it won't have the di$mal air filter and clogged particle trap but it _WILL_ have the wonderful improved transmission and better final drive ratio...
>
> This could well be your dream car for only $1,000 ! .
>
> -Nate
> "ajrnemt" <ajrn@> wrote:
> >
> > http://toledo.craigslist.org/bar/2759406609.html
> >
> > First-- an '86 W123?? I thought the 5cyl turbodiesel went away in '85.
> >
> > Does it mean the "different" tranny like on my '85 300SD??
> >
> > I sent him an email, offering my running rustbucket '85 300SD.
> >
> > I don't really NEED another vehicle, but this would help me "free" myself of one, even if the CD isn't currently drivable.
> >
> >
> > ...I've always wanted a CD. *sigh*
> >
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Diagnosing Oil Leaks

 

Nate,

Why was it that I never could get it to leak for me. I cleaned it all up and was under the car from more than a half hour with it running in the Embassy Suites parking lot. I could not get it to drip a drop.

I suppose I needed to increase the rpm's to build the pressure in order to see anything. But at least by fingers, I have been over every inch of hose on the car and have found nothing. How could that be and then leak a quart of oil every 25 miles.

Chip
Windsor, NC

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
>
> Be aware that one must never , _EVER_ use carby cleaner for -anything- because it attacks & destroys rubber (hoses) and plastic (more hoses & tubes) and so will , in every case , make things far worse .
>
> Use cans of Engine De - Greaser , the basic stuff , NOT ' foamy ' ,
> ' steam ' , clinging ' or other bullcrap marketing junk , just Engine Brite brand PN EB1 or similar , spray on two whole cans then allow it to soak into the oil , spray more using a soft brush to work it all around & mix up the old road grime & grease ~ allow to soak for 20 minutes _minimum_ then rinse off with plain water , a garden hose or the coil operated car wash , buying used long sleeve clothes from the Thrift Shop first is wise because as you're doing this job , you'll get covered in oil , nasty mess and it's easier to disrobe & bag up the filthy clothes than it is to clean the mess out of the car seats & doors panels .
>
> In a pinch , the engine oil cooler hoses can be repaired at any big rig truck shop by cutting away the round collars where the hose meets the steel pipes , this collar is a manufactured crimp clamp & once it'd cut away , the old rotten hose can be slid off the end of the steel pipe revealing a standard Metric hose nipple , get some correct size _Hydraulic_ hose and some wide , heavy duty hose clamps , measure the hose length thrice , cut once , use the clamps and motor on home .
>
> This will work on those golden bronze colored plastic hoses in the fueling system and IP oil feed plastic pipes too , just for God's sake , DO NOT forget to replace them with the correct parts ASAP when you arrive home .
>
> Tom and The Mercedes Classic Center has the right stuff that fits , is best quality and the price is discounted so you don't feel the freight charges .
>
> Everyone else has pretty much covered the rest so I'll just wait to hear what the trouble is .
>
> -Nate
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Parts?

 

What in general are you looking for, and where are you located?
 
Tom Hanson
Mercedes Benz Classic Center USA
MBUSA, LLC
thomas.hanson@mbusa.com
949 598-4842 direct
949 598-4870 fax
From: rwillman18 <rwillman18@yahoo.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 5:31 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Parts?

 
Is there a parts house...such as mg's have victoria british..id there a Merc part catolog house?



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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Emergency Breakdown Help

 



Well, I made it to my mechanic in NC. He will look at my car first thing in the morning. What a trip, 4 quarts of oil every 100 miles. Never let it loose oil pressure and the engine is still running great.

Major worries about all the oil that has gotten under the car. I'll get it all steam cleaned while it is in the shop, but I am very nervous about all that new front suspension stuff I had just replaced. If I clean it well has the damage already been done.

The entire trip, more oil came from the passenger side, but both sides of the car ended up coated in oil, just heaver on the left.

I still don't have a clue where the leak is but it sure looks like it is something around the turbo.

I'll check back tomorrow when I should have an answer.

Chip
Windsor, NC

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[diesel_mercedes] No Start

 


First thing is to get your test light and see if the glow plugs are getting any current .

Then look at the rectangular black plastic box on the left inner fenderwell , the wires come out the front of it, be gentle removing the top , once you figure it out , it pops/slips right off .

When I lost a glow plug relay , the light occasionally flickered but NO current made it to the glow plugs .

I'd just go grab a used one , new they're $pendy little buggers .

I see they can be taken apart and the contacts cleaned and polished , I got lazy and replaced mine with a used one and tossed the old dead on in the trash bin .

There's a contact adjuster screw under the cover , loosen the 10 MM lock nut and use a thin flat blade screwdriver to adjust , sorry I haven't yet taught myself the correct adjusting method so be wary you don't get it stuck on and burn out your glow plugs and run the battery dead...

I'm guessing you can remove the adjuster screw and maybe polish it's inner end , Tom might remind me to take one apart in P-A-P next week.

-Nate
Who Knows Who Wrote :

I work on an 85 300D which suddenly quit starting, though cranking.

Simultaneously, it doesn't turn on the glow plug light.

Are these related?

Where exactly is the glow plug relay?

Apparently the 80A fuse is there, so that might be the problem...

Thanks for any help...

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[diesel_mercedes] Re : ' Box Of Mystery '

 


Thanx ! .

As my cars all seem to be working O.K. now , and i replaced the Auxiliary WaterPumps , I'm prolly good to go but now I have another thing to know .

-Nate
Jim wrote:
>
> It's an aluminum box with electronics inside it that is mounted above the glove box on W123s. One screw and one wiring harness. Look on fleabay for part number 0008221003 and you'll see a bunch of 'em for sale. Apparently it interacts with the pushbutton box, the sensors, the monovalve, etc.
>
> Jim
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > ?? wHAT IS THIS MYSTERY BOX ?? .
> >
> > -Nate
> > Jim wrote:
> > >
> > > Solved heater problem 84 300D W123
> > >
> > > Symptoms:
> > > - full heat all the time when temp dial anywhere but "MIN"
> > > - full cold when in MIN detent
> > >
> > > Solution:
> > > Part number 0008221003 - the mystery box
> > >
> > > - Junkyard pulls are all over ebay starting around $50.
> > > - brinsonco.com has them for $115 reman by not-Programa/three year warranty
> > >
> > > Be aware that when other components upstream from this unit go bad, the problem can cascade downstream and burn out this box. These include the monovalve and the electric coolant boost pump. I checked my monovalve for resistance and it was 17, which was within the 11 to 19 acceptable range. I forget what the boost pump range is because I didn't check it...I put a new one on the car. ebay $90.
> > >
> > > Spending too much money on this car.
> > >
> > > Jim
> > >
> >
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: How bad is swapping a rear control arm>? w123

 


Looks interesting BUT be aware that sometimes the rust is why the A Arms need replacing , not a simple swap but maybe mucho welding at a frame shop (maybe) .

I'd go look at it for sure .

It's a W-123 so maybe is an '85 ~ unless it's from Sunny Cali. (land of fruits nuts & flakes) it won't have the di$mal air filter and clogged particle trap but it _WILL_ have the wonderful improved transmission and better final drive ratio...

This could well be your dream car for only $1,000 ! .

-Nate
"ajrnemt" <ajrn@...> wrote:
>
> http://toledo.craigslist.org/bar/2759406609.html
>
> First-- an '86 W123?? I thought the 5cyl turbodiesel went away in '85.
>
> Does it mean the "different" tranny like on my '85 300SD??
>
> I sent him an email, offering my running rustbucket '85 300SD.
>
> I don't really NEED another vehicle, but this would help me "free" myself of one, even if the CD isn't currently drivable.
>
>
> ...I've always wanted a CD. *sigh*
>

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