Re: [diesel_mercedes] please buy this before I do and

Paint looks fine to me. This should be a group purchase, and like a time share we would all get to drive it on a rotating basis each month.

brian

Eric Ditwiler <Eric_Ditwiler@hmc.edu> wrote:
yank the 616 and stick in a 617A and give it a scooby doo paint job

http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/car/563939918.html



brian from la verne, ca


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] 72 280SE, new link

Hmm.....  I actually have the engine and auto transmission from a '71 280SE W108 at my shop.  I'll check it on my way in tomorrow morning.  I don't know if they were using the 722.0/1/2 at that point or not, and now I'm curious as hell....

Mark in Fort Collins, CO


-----Original Message-----
From: Bogy Wan Kenobi
Sent: Feb 5, 2008 6:53 PM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] 72 280SE, new link

The kid pulled the ad because it said $400 OBO and he did not want to go lower
so he relisted here

http://www.ksl.com/?nid=218&ad=2610169&cat=103&lpid=2

It's beautiful.
Bogy.

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[diesel_mercedes] please buy this before I do and

yank the 616 and stick in a 617A and give it a scooby doo paint job

http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/car/563939918.html



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Re: [Diesel-RVs] SpeeCo

SF

Just go to speedco.com and there's a link for Locations. Quite a few
locations. On another group I help moderate, we wrote in to Speedco and they very
much welcome RVs.

Fred White






In a message dated 2/5/2008 8:29:41 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
sf@jeepshots.com writes:

Where are they located? That is a great deal
SF


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] 72 280SE, new link

Looks good - wish I had a garage again so I could pick up a half dozen or so.

Re Mary (300D with the 82 TD engine) daylight revealed my bottom pulley laying harmlessly on its side and all belts off but in good shape (they are new from last May). Towed it in on a flatbed and will take a closer look tomorrow. Can the pulley repair / replacement be done with the car up in the air working underneath?  Can it be done with the radiator in place?

brian

Bogy Wan Kenobi <polespearbogy@yahoo.com> wrote:
The kid pulled the ad because it said $400 OBO and he did not want to go lower
so he relisted here

http://www.ksl.com/?nid=218&ad=2610169&cat=103&lpid=2

It's beautiful.
Bogy.

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[diesel_mercedes] 72 280SE, new link

The kid pulled the ad because it said $400 OBO and he did not want to go lower
so he relisted here

http://www.ksl.com/?nid=218&ad=2610169&cat=103&lpid=2

It's beautiful.
Bogy.


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Re: [Diesel-RVs] SpeeCo

Where are they located? That is a great deal
SF


----- Original Message -----
From: northstatebiker
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 7:48 AM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] SpeeCo


I kept reading here in this forum about SpeedCo. I contacted them
yesterday about service my small block Cummins ISB (16 Qt System, One
Oil Filter, etc.). I asked them about the cost, and here is a copy
of their reply:
----------------------------------------------------------
Hello Mr. Johnson,

Thank you for your interest in Speedco.

For a RV with a Cummins ISB engine, we charge only $85.99 for the PM
Service. This includes changing your oil, 1 Baldwin oil & fuel filter,
greasing the unit, and checking all the vital fluid levels (coolant,
transmission, differential, power steering, washer fluid).

Thank you again for contacting us. If you would like any additional
information, please let us know and we would be glad to assist you.

Sincerely,

Josh Downing
Risk Manager
Speedco Inc.
----------------------------------------------------------

THAT IS A GREAT DEAL!

DJ

p.s. The only thing I might ask for is a Fleetguard Filter which I
believe they might carry. I also would hand them a LUBE POINT copy
from my Freightliner Green Owner's Manual as they might not find all
of the grease fittings.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Moving to Full-Timing

I am a full timer who is starting our 8th year on the road. I have a
few comments that I will add to your list.

One thing I think would help answer your questions is to take
the "Boot Camp" that the Escapees will offer at their Escapade this
Summer. Or attend the Life On Wheels classes offered across the USA.

Either one could be done in a rented RV or from a Motel in the area.

A few of my comets follow

Don Hankins


--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "northstatebiker"
<djohnsonhot@...> wrote:
>
> Here is a few general questions for a fella (and his superior) who
are
> retiring into a MotorHome in the next 18 months. I hope that some
of
> you will be willing to share some honest and supported facts related
> to each.
>
> First, my wife and I did live full time in our RV (a gas rig) back
> when I was in my 30's. We traveled around and pretty much "had it"
> with RV-ing because of the numerous troubles with that RV. So, we
> have the basics down - - but now things have changed:
>
> 1. I need a computer now. It is not a want. We pay bills and I
> move cash around using my computer here at home and on the road.
>
> My question: is there smaller and less expensive satellite based
> high-speed solution out there yet or is one coming? The huge
dishes
> I see are pricey and are often ground mounted. We don't watch TV
on
> the move so I can live with a separate dish that will seek a signal
or
> allow me to use a compass and elevation/azimuth specs.


I have a tripod Satellite Dish and have used it for 4-5 years. It is
great to have but if the decision was to be made today I would
consider the Verizon computer cards.


>
>
> 2. We are moving up to a 40-footer. I know, many will say that is
> either too big or small, but we know we can live with a 40 foot
coach.
>

The bigger the Coach the less places you can take it. Many of the
best roads in California have a 40ft limit. A 40 footer will not fit
in many National Parks.


> a. Which chassis, if you have owned more than a couple,
is
> the easiest to find service for and is the best ride?

I have heard of problem with all brands, I think each has it's own
benefit and each will do the job. I feel that there are more
Freightliner repair locations than any other brand.

>
> b. Are there folks out there living with 2 or more
> slide-outs and what are the pro's and con's of having more than 2
> (such as 4 slides?)


My last Coach had 1 slide this coach has 4. Each slide takes up
storage space and is something else to take care of before being able
to move in the morning. Each slide provides a larger living area, I
think the second slide in a bedroom can be lived without.

>
> c. What about tag axles? Any opinions. I would prefer
to
> not have a tag and a smaller/lighter/lower HP diesel.

I don't want a tag axle. If you are 40' or less it is not needed.

>
> d. For those of you who have owned BOTH the Cummins and
> Cat power plants, which is cheaper/better/less hassle, etc. I can
> live with opinions so long as they are fact-based...


My last 2 coaches had Cummins engines, this one has a cat. My next
one will have a cummins. Cat owners are very loyal to the brand but
I do not see why as most get less MPG than a cummins

>
> e. Has anyone tried to perform their own maintenance on
> the road and to what level have you achieved (oil changes?). I am
a
> self-maintainer for more than a couple of reasons.

I do most of the maintenance myself. Several Escapee parks are great
places to let you do some maintenance. Most commercial parks do not
allow you to do much work on your rig.


>
> f. Are there must-have accessories that are not on the
> general usually-owned items? Such as Electronic, security systems,
> etc.? What about often missed must-haves??
>
> g. Have you full-timers been to Mexico or Canada or
other
> places for wintering and summering breaks. Where have you laid
down
> roots outside of the USA? We have our eyes on Mexico and I know
this
> is a huge subject but some general information would be great. We
> have lived in several Latin Countries over the years so we have no
> fear of Mexicans or other Latin folks and in fact really enjoy those
> cultures (we lived in Spain and Portugal on our Honeymoon - - and
> stayed in France, Austria, Germany and Italy for the winter months
then).
>

I travel to Mexico most winters and have lead trips for the Escapee
Chapter 8 (The Mexican Connection). It is a great country that
should not be missed. But go the first time with a group ether a
caravan company or Chapter 8 or friends that have traveled in Mexico
a lot.

Mexican travel requires a Motorhome that does not have a Diesel
particulate filter which needs 15 ppm diesel fuel. This excludes all
2008 and many 2007 coaches that were not built on 2006 chassis.


> h. Has anyone launched a full-timer life-style and then
> regretted it completely? Meaning, maybe Mom got sick of the road
or
> you began to get tired of the lifestyle and ended it sooner than
> expected and what were your reasons to return to RV-ing as a
> hobby/recreation only? Include medical reasons and why treatment
> was not possible away from "home."
>
> i. This is a big decision: did you keep a "home base"
> (down-sized) for your Rig? Did you keep a garage or storage and
how
> much did stuff did you keep, if any? I have read the gamut. Back
> when we full-timed, I kept a car, two motorcycles, furniture and so
on
> because we were convinced we would own a home again. This time, we
> are not sure but are nervous about getting rid of a lot of stuff
that
> will be way more expensive to replace. I own a Whole house Genset,
a
> Diesel 4-wheel drive/PTO/Front bucket Tractor, and a Goldwing.
Those
> latter items would cost a bunch to replace later. However, this
is a
> teeter-totter thing. We want to full time for the right reasons
> (right meaning, we want that lifestyle) but are going back and forth
> with the "thing" thing. I meant that to be funny but really, I am
> serious about down-sizing. We have already begun with selling
three
> of my four motorcycles and we are dumping the Jeep G.C. and so
on. I
> have a utility trailer with 4 wheels which is a beauty and that we
> might keep for moving stuff later but that may be about it. We are
> pretty much dumping our furniture except Grandma's old trunk (that
> sort of thing). I have some electronics I will keep.....but, we are
> heading in the direction of a full dumping of the stuff that we know
> we can replace later.
>
> That's enough for now. We have plenty of time to work this out.
We
> want to eliminate any emotional attachments. Her Mom and Dad are
set
> for now and my parents are gone. I have a great Brother and
> Sister-in-Law who we will see a lot as time goes on. We hope to
see
> them yearly instead of every 5 years as it is now..and he retires
in 3
> to 6 years. That's one reason for freeing up from our home here.
>
> Thanks for any input and little tidbits would be great. I am
guessing
> that there are others reading this who are bending in our direction
as
> well.....so, I hope this serves the group. If a handful of folks
> here want to take on one or two issues at a time, that would be
great.
>
> I hope the subject works. This is a very compelling subject for
many
> people. The USA is in the midst of one of the biggest financial
> transitions in decades - - those of you who read financial
information
> daily will agree. We are making this move now because we want to
get
> on the road before fuel hits $5 to $6 a gallon or more and it will.
>
> We do have a campground membership and will likely keep busy doing
> seasonal work. If anyone has input there, that would be great. I
> have performed sales consulting out of an RV before and really
enjoyed
> that - - I have a bunch of management and sales experience as well
as
> management consulting work which has kept me busy over the years.
So,
> we plan to have something to do......while having some 4 to 6 month
> breaks to travel overseas.
>
> Thanks for any input!
>
> DJ
>


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[Diesel-RVs] Re: SpeeCo

Nick,

I don't see any reason why not, thier drive thru bays handle semi's
with trailers attached. They have pits for all the oil changes and lube.
I'm sure if it's diesel they will do it. Call ahead to be sure.

Al Sawyer
'05 MADP

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "winnyj2001" <nmunozjr@...> wrote:
>
> Just checked the web site and it says nothing about motorhomes. Do
> you know if they service motorhomes at all locations?
>
> Nick
>


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[Diesel-RVs] Re: SpeeCo

Just checked the web site and it says nothing about motorhomes. Do
you know if they service motorhomes at all locations?

Nick

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "northstatebiker" <djohnsonhot@...>
wrote:
>
> I kept reading here in this forum about SpeedCo. I contacted them
> yesterday about service my small block Cummins ISB (16 Qt System, One
> Oil Filter, etc.). I asked them about the cost, and here is a copy
> of their reply:
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Hello Mr. Johnson,
>
> Thank you for your interest in Speedco.
>
> For a RV with a Cummins ISB engine, we charge only $85.99 for the PM
> Service. This includes changing your oil, 1 Baldwin oil & fuel filter,
> greasing the unit, and checking all the vital fluid levels (coolant,
> transmission, differential, power steering, washer fluid).
>
> Thank you again for contacting us. If you would like any additional
> information, please let us know and we would be glad to assist you.
>
> Sincerely,
>
>
> Josh Downing
> Risk Manager
> Speedco Inc.
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> THAT IS A GREAT DEAL!
>
> DJ
>
> p.s. The only thing I might ask for is a Fleetguard Filter which I
> believe they might carry. I also would hand them a LUBE POINT copy
> from my Freightliner Green Owner's Manual as they might not find all
> of the grease fittings.
>


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Aux. Water Pump FUSE Location ?

Sounds good to me Jeff ;

Where is the yellow 5 Amp. fuse for it located ? it is referanced
inside the fuse box lid (triangle) but I don't see it anywhere and
the new pump isn't running when I press defrost...

Now what? .

-Nate
Jeff wrote:
>
> > I have been researching Klima I and Chrysler Air - Temp service
on
> > The internet and it seems that old Aux. water pumps can draw too
much
> > current (over 3 amps.) and this will in fact , cause the HVAC
> > amplifier behind the glovebox to overheat & burn out .
> >
> > So , I'll go get a couple of the plugs used to connect the Aux.
water
> > pump and make up a fuse holder with a 1.5 or 2 Amp. fuse in it....
> >
> Relay the pump and problem solved...no relay ever drew over 3 amps.
> Jeff
>



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Intake Fuel Prefilters????

I've never ran below 10 gals, for one gauge is not accurate.Probably why I keep bugs in tank.Hey not bearing again, but sticky brakes.

vwnate1 <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:

They're only screens Nate , not designed to stop anything but the
chunks and watery crud , if they filtered well , they'd clog and stop
the car from running soon as they're so small .

I need to remove mine and blow it out backwards , if you remove it
carefully , keeping your finger over the inlet side so it stays full of
fuel , you can upright it and gently shake it to settle 99 % of the
dirt & chunks down into the inlet nipple then simply blow it clean from
the outlet side with your mouth .

if you do this when under 1/4 tank of fuel , it won't siphon out and
make a mess whilst you're fooling with the filter....

No need to clean them with chemicals either .

-Nate
Nate wrote:
>
> Thats me $5. at advance purolator.Better than what mercedessource
> sells.I've seen the black crap go thru the German prefilters.I clean
> mine and reuse with WD40 or gasoline.
>



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Neverending Klima I Fun

> I have been researching Klima I and Chrysler Air - Temp service on
> The internet and it seems that old Aux. water pumps can draw too much
> current (over 3 amps.) and this will in fact , cause the HVAC
> amplifier behind the glovebox to overheat & burn out .
>
> So , I'll go get a couple of the plugs used to connect the Aux. water
> pump and make up a fuse holder with a 1.5 or 2 Amp. fuse in it....
>
Relay the pump and problem solved...no relay ever drew over 3 amps.
Jeff



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[diesel_mercedes] Auxiliary Water Pump

O.K. , I bought a brandy new in the box Bosch one , $120.00 locally as
I wanted it right now , not next week .

It looks _so_ pretty , now I hate to take it under the hood .

MercedesSource.com up in Bellingham , Wa. carries a German made off
brand one for only $74.50 (P/N : CCP-COMAWP) , if I was there I'da
bought it to try .

-Nate


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Intake Fuel Prefilters????

They're only screens Nate , not designed to stop anything but the
chunks and watery crud , if they filtered well , they'd clog and stop
the car from running soon as they're so small .

I need to remove mine and blow it out backwards , if you remove it
carefully , keeping your finger over the inlet side so it stays full of
fuel , you can upright it and gently shake it to settle 99 % of the
dirt & chunks down into the inlet nipple then simply blow it clean from
the outlet side with your mouth .

if you do this when under 1/4 tank of fuel , it won't siphon out and
make a mess whilst you're fooling with the filter....

No need to clean them with chemicals either .

-Nate
Nate wrote:
>
> Thats me $5. at advance purolator.Better than what mercedessource
> sells.I've seen the black crap go thru the German prefilters.I clean
> mine and reuse with WD40 or gasoline.
>



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[diesel_mercedes] Re: JB Weld repair of pitted aluminum

That's pretty good ! .

I had the same problem and it took me quite a while before I found
good used alloy bits to replace my heavily corroded ones with .

-Nate
Rich wrote:
>
> I keep forgetting to write about this.
>
> Many months ago, I replaced some radiator hoses, including the
short
> stubby bypass hose that goes from the water pump to the thermostat
> housing. Some months later, it began to seep a little...just a few
> drops over night. I tighened the clamps a little and the seepage
> increased. The seepage was out the end of the hose, where you can
> see the reinforcement threads.
>
> So I disassembled to have a look see.
>
> The housing stubs where the hoses connect were very pitted,
> including one pinhole all the way through. This one was not the
> leaker. My guess is that where the bypass hose was pressed into a
> pit by clamping pressure, the inner rubber layer was cut.
>
> I cleaned the parts with brake cleaner and filled all the pits I
> could find with JB Weld, reasoning that I could just replace the
> parts for $$ or try the repair and if it doesnt' work and I still
> have to replace the parts, I'm no worse off except for spending a
> little time.
>
> JB Weld stays tacky for quite a while. I had another car running
at
> the time, so I let it set for 2 weeks. Then I filed and sanded it
> smooth and reassembled. It looked pretty good, smooth and dry with
> no tackyness. Of course, the proof of that will be next
> disassembly. See if the JB stays, or comes off with the hose...but
> that's for another day.
>
> It has been leakfree for about a month now.
>



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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 5 dollar prefilters????

Thats me $5. at advance purolator.Better than what mercedessource
sells.I've seen the black crap go thru the German prefilters.I clean
mine and reuse with WD40 or gasoline.


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[Diesel-RVs] Re: SpeeCo

Ron,

First their folks are not mechanics in the truest sense of the word.

Second they encourage the owner to observe and the owner is required
to watch and certify the torqueing of the oil drain plug. An RV
chassis is not the same as a semi tractor. I have pointed out to them
the "u" joint on the steering column, accessed from above, thru the
generator compartment. They thanked me as they were unaware if it.
Very friendly folks and in and out in about 30-45 min.

Al Sawyer
'05 MADP


> Thats right, mechanics are dumb,probably never done a freightliner
> before,and they like to be instructed by the owner how to do their
> job.they might ask you why you dont do it yourself?not a good way
to
> be on their good side while they are working on your coach! just a
> thought, Ron-- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "northstatebiker"
> <djohnsonhot@> wrote:
> >


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[diesel_mercedes] 5 dollar prefilters????

A while back, somebody mentioned paying $5 each for prefilters.

Autohaus Arizona (no affiliation) has them for just over $2. They
have Monark and Bosch. The Bosch are much better made and worth the
slightly higher price. Only problem is that the Bosch ones are now
milky opaque white.

Neither has the brass inserts, but they seem to do fine.

Actually that's not as big of a problem as I thought. I can see the
screen inside, pretty well by shining a flash light from the back and,
sort of, getting a x-ray view of the filter.

Rich


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] JB Weld repair of pitted aluminum

Rich,
well done.
I love "alternate" fixes that work well........
Thanks for posting your results.
Henry

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich" <rj_olaveson@yahoo.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 9:27 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] JB Weld repair of pitted aluminum


I keep forgetting to write about this.

Many months ago, I replaced some radiator hoses, including the short
stubby bypass hose that goes from the water pump to the thermostat
housing. Some months later, it began to seep a little...just a few
drops over night. I tighened the clamps a little and the seepage
increased. The seepage was out the end of the hose, where you can
see the reinforcement threads.

So I disassembled to have a look see.

The housing stubs where the hoses connect were very pitted,
including one pinhole all the way through. This one was not the
leaker. My guess is that where the bypass hose was pressed into a
pit by clamping pressure, the inner rubber layer was cut.

I cleaned the parts with brake cleaner and filled all the pits I
could find with JB Weld, reasoning that I could just replace the
parts for $$ or try the repair and if it doesnt' work and I still
have to replace the parts, I'm no worse off except for spending a
little time.

JB Weld stays tacky for quite a while. I had another car running at
the time, so I let it set for 2 weeks. Then I filed and sanded it
smooth and reassembled. It looked pretty good, smooth and dry with
no tackyness. Of course, the proof of that will be next
disassembly. See if the JB stays, or comes off with the hose...but
that's for another day.

It has been leakfree for about a month now.



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[diesel_mercedes] JB Weld repair of pitted aluminum

I keep forgetting to write about this.

Many months ago, I replaced some radiator hoses, including the short
stubby bypass hose that goes from the water pump to the thermostat
housing. Some months later, it began to seep a little...just a few
drops over night. I tighened the clamps a little and the seepage
increased. The seepage was out the end of the hose, where you can
see the reinforcement threads.

So I disassembled to have a look see.

The housing stubs where the hoses connect were very pitted,
including one pinhole all the way through. This one was not the
leaker. My guess is that where the bypass hose was pressed into a
pit by clamping pressure, the inner rubber layer was cut.

I cleaned the parts with brake cleaner and filled all the pits I
could find with JB Weld, reasoning that I could just replace the
parts for $$ or try the repair and if it doesnt' work and I still
have to replace the parts, I'm no worse off except for spending a
little time.

JB Weld stays tacky for quite a while. I had another car running at
the time, so I let it set for 2 weeks. Then I filed and sanded it
smooth and reassembled. It looked pretty good, smooth and dry with
no tackyness. Of course, the proof of that will be next
disassembly. See if the JB stays, or comes off with the hose...but
that's for another day.

It has been leakfree for about a month now.


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: fuel Primer Pump

Yes, that's a more professional practice. That way, you have a good
idea that re-assembly will work.
Rich

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "vwnate1" <vwnate1@...>
wrote:
>
>
> Yes I know but I still like to practice careful work in both
> directions .
>
> -Nate
> Rich wrote:
> >
> > The pliers are only used to remove the old, leaky pump which is
> > being tossed.
> > Rich
> >
> > --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "vwnate1" <vwnate1@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Yabbutt ;
> > >
> > > That leaves "Mechanic's marks " (tool marks) on the soft
aluminum
> > > body of the primer pump and I don't like to do that .
> > >
> > > If you follow my method of fuel filter change you'll need not
> > touch
> > > the primer poump at all .
> > >
> > > -Nate
> > > Rich wrote:
> > > >
> > > > You can use channel-lock pliers to remove the old one
without
> > taking
> > > > off the hose barb. That would work if you were putting on
the
> > new
> > > > style, since it has a smaller hex and a crowsfoot will fit
in
> the
> > > > space to tighten it up.
> > > >
> > > > True about pumping more. The new style is tiny and takes a
lot
> > of
> > > pumping.
> > > >
> > > > Since I have been changing pre-filters so often, however, I
have
> > > > developed a regimen that minimizes the required pumping.
> > > >
> > > > Do this when you have 3/4 tank or more fuel. And have a
yogurt
> > cup
> > > or
> > > > similar handy to put the old filter into.
> > > > 1. Loosen both hose clamps.
> > > > 2. Remove the feed hose from the old filter.
> > > > 3. Quickly slip the new filter on the feed hose.
> > > > 4. Hold the new filter upright and watch it magically fill
with
> > fuel
> > > > from the bottom up, while you:
> > > > 5. remove the old filter from the pump line.
> > > > 6. When it's full of fuel, attach the new filter to the pump
> > line.
> > > > 7. Twist and arrange as necessary.
> > > > 8. Tighten the hose clamps.
> > > > Ready to go with minimal or no priming, and very little
> > spillage. I
> > > > usually drape a rag under the whole works.
> > > >
> > > > Rich
> > >
> >
>



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[Diesel-RVs] Re: SpeeCo

-I also would hand them a LUBE POINT copy
from my Freightliner Green Owner's Manual as they might not find all
of the grease fittings.
Thats right, mechanics are dumb,probably never done a freightliner
before,and they like to be instructed by the owner how to do their
job.they might ask you why you dont do it yourself?not a good way to
be on their good side while they are working on your coach! just a
thought, Ron-- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "northstatebiker"
<djohnsonhot@...> wrote:
>
> I kept reading here in this forum about SpeedCo. I contacted them
> yesterday about service my small block Cummins ISB (16 Qt System,
One
> Oil Filter, etc.). I asked them about the cost, and here is a copy
> of their reply:
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> Hello Mr. Johnson,
>
> Thank you for your interest in Speedco.
>
> For a RV with a Cummins ISB engine, we charge only $85.99 for the PM
> Service. This includes changing your oil, 1 Baldwin oil & fuel
filter,
> greasing the unit, and checking all the vital fluid levels (coolant,
> transmission, differential, power steering, washer fluid).
>
> Thank you again for contacting us. If you would like any additional
> information, please let us know and we would be glad to assist you.
>
> Sincerely,
>
>
> Josh Downing
> Risk Manager
> Speedco Inc.
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
--
>
> THAT IS A GREAT DEAL!
>
> DJ
>
> p.s. The only thing I might ask for is a Fleetguard Filter which I
> believe they might carry. I also would hand them a LUBE POINT copy
> from my Freightliner Green Owner's Manual as they might not find all
> of the grease fittings.
>


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[Diesel-RVs] SpeeCo

I kept reading here in this forum about SpeedCo. I contacted them
yesterday about service my small block Cummins ISB (16 Qt System, One
Oil Filter, etc.). I asked them about the cost, and here is a copy
of their reply:
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Hello Mr. Johnson,

Thank you for your interest in Speedco.

For a RV with a Cummins ISB engine, we charge only $85.99 for the PM
Service. This includes changing your oil, 1 Baldwin oil & fuel filter,
greasing the unit, and checking all the vital fluid levels (coolant,
transmission, differential, power steering, washer fluid).

Thank you again for contacting us. If you would like any additional
information, please let us know and we would be glad to assist you.

Sincerely,


Josh Downing
Risk Manager
Speedco Inc.
----------------------------------------------------------------------

THAT IS A GREAT DEAL!

DJ

p.s. The only thing I might ask for is a Fleetguard Filter which I
believe they might carry. I also would hand them a LUBE POINT copy
from my Freightliner Green Owner's Manual as they might not find all
of the grease fittings.

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[diesel_mercedes] Neverending Klima I Fun

So ;

I replace my HVAC amplifier and my used auxiliary water pump stopped
working , that's why I stopped getting heat last week .

I have a spare , non -mworking Aux. water pump I was going to take
apart and fiddle with but I think I'll just go buy a new one just to
ensure it's not an issue .

I have been researching Klima I and Chrysler Air - Temp service on
The internet and it seems that old Aux. water pumps can draw too much
current (over 3 amps.) and this will in fact , cause the HVAC
amplifier behind the glovebox to overheat & burn out .

So , I'll go get a couple of the plugs used to connect the Aux. water
pump and make up a fuse holder with a 1.5 or 2 Amp. fuse in it....

Onwards , ever onwards , not much fun with this mangled thumb .

-Nate


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Pulleys & Belts - 300D

IIRC ;

There's some allen headed bolts holding the pulley sheaves to the
dampner , they were prolly not tightened sufficiently as they're a bit
difficult to reach and one must use a long ratchet and support the head
as you tighten them because they're 4" recessed and the allen bit wants
to slip out sideways when you're looseneing / tightening them ~ I had
just this problem when doing my water pump last summer , I wound up
replacing a few of the allen screws when they partially stripped .

-Nate
Brian wrote:
>
> Lost my pulleys and belts off the crankshaft last night on the #134
> while passing through Glendale, CA. Will get the car towed home
> tomorrow morning. Anyone ever have their pulleys separate off the
> crank before? Is it a common or uncommon problem on MB's? Did the
> mechanic who installed my engine (last May) tighten everything down
> per spec? Was it part failure, or mechanics error? It maybe too late
> to blame anyone as 9 months have elapsed, but I have never had "pulley
> failure" before.
>
> brian
>



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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 72 280SE, cracked tranny case, $400.00 OBO in Salt Lake City near perfect otherwise

That's a bad link , says ' ad not found ! ' .

I hopew it works out for you .

-Nate
Bogy wrote:
>
> And I have a spare tranny in my parts car. Mechanical kickdown
type. Question
> is this: will my 79 300TD tranny bolt up to this engine?
>
> I'm guessing it will since the tranny interface is bolted onto the
blocks (as
> opposed to being part of the casting). Just wanna make sure.
>
> Take a look
>
>

http://www.ksl.com/?nid=218&ad=2605058&cat=103&lpid=1
>
> Bogy.
>


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: fuel Primer Pump

Yes I know but I still like to practice careful work in both
directions .

-Nate
Rich wrote:
>
> The pliers are only used to remove the old, leaky pump which is
> being tossed.
> Rich
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "vwnate1" <vwnate1@>
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Yabbutt ;
> >
> > That leaves "Mechanic's marks " (tool marks) on the soft aluminum
> > body of the primer pump and I don't like to do that .
> >
> > If you follow my method of fuel filter change you'll need not
> touch
> > the primer poump at all .
> >
> > -Nate
> > Rich wrote:
> > >
> > > You can use channel-lock pliers to remove the old one without
> taking
> > > off the hose barb. That would work if you were putting on the
> new
> > > style, since it has a smaller hex and a crowsfoot will fit in
the
> > > space to tighten it up.
> > >
> > > True about pumping more. The new style is tiny and takes a lot
> of
> > pumping.
> > >
> > > Since I have been changing pre-filters so often, however, I have
> > > developed a regimen that minimizes the required pumping.
> > >
> > > Do this when you have 3/4 tank or more fuel. And have a yogurt
> cup
> > or
> > > similar handy to put the old filter into.
> > > 1. Loosen both hose clamps.
> > > 2. Remove the feed hose from the old filter.
> > > 3. Quickly slip the new filter on the feed hose.
> > > 4. Hold the new filter upright and watch it magically fill with
> fuel
> > > from the bottom up, while you:
> > > 5. remove the old filter from the pump line.
> > > 6. When it's full of fuel, attach the new filter to the pump
> line.
> > > 7. Twist and arrange as necessary.
> > > 8. Tighten the hose clamps.
> > > Ready to go with minimal or no priming, and very little
> spillage. I
> > > usually drape a rag under the whole works.
> > >
> > > Rich
> >
>



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Pulleys & Belts - 300D

Hi Brian,
 
Just did this job myself. Seems to be more common than it should. In my case the PO had replaced the front crank seal (which he screwed up putting on so it still leaked!). There are 3 Bellville washers on the bolt and the were all on backwards (should be crown out) so the bolt even torqued to 250 ft/lbs wasn't locked. If you are lucky the locator pins just sheared and didn't take out the end of the crankshaft. MB didn't use a key and keyway, they used blind 8mm pins. They can be kind of tricky to put in so patience really helps here. Seems this usually happens from the bolt not torqued, lockwashers on wrong or missing etc...
The pully stack is attached to the harmonic balancer, it will be screwed and you will need another. I think i paid about $150 used.
 
Good luck,
Tony

Brian <bstromsoe@yahoo.com> wrote:
Lost my pulleys and belts off the crankshaft last night on the #134
while passing through Glendale, CA. Will get the car towed home
tomorrow morning. Anyone ever have their pulleys separate off the
crank before? Is it a common or uncommon problem on MB's? Did the
mechanic who installed my engine (last May) tighten everything down
per spec? Was it part failure, or mechanics error? It maybe too late
to blame anyone as 9 months have elapsed, but I have never had "pulley
failure" before.

brian



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Pulleys & Belts - 300D

Did the 6? bolts come out, just the center crankshaft nut or did the whole thing break?  Either way, it ain't pretty!  I've heard of the harmonic balancer separating from the pulleys too.  Hopefully, the crank isn't buggered up since this could happen when the nut comes loose and the end of the crank turns inside the hole as it's coming off.
 
Good luck.
 
Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula
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[diesel_mercedes] Pulleys & Belts - 300D

Lost my pulleys and belts off the crankshaft last night on the #134
while passing through Glendale, CA. Will get the car towed home
tomorrow morning. Anyone ever have their pulleys separate off the
crank before? Is it a common or uncommon problem on MB's? Did the
mechanic who installed my engine (last May) tighten everything down
per spec? Was it part failure, or mechanics error? It maybe too late
to blame anyone as 9 months have elapsed, but I have never had "pulley
failure" before.

brian


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