Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: diesel why the cost, don't blame the tree huggers tho,, Ca. started all this with CARB

 

Doug,

As Mark alluded to - ULSD is the wrong fuel for our MB 300D engines.  In the process of removing the sulfur, the refinery also removes the lubricity.  We need to add lubricity or that fabulous Injection Pump with its tight clearances will bind up.  We can add a little biodiesel or pick your favorite.  I am partial to MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil), but have not tested it. 

This is a very important for all of us.

(Weird Reality Note - It is legal to sell and use LSD (Low Sulfur Diesel - not what you were thinking - the previous government mandated diesel fuel, which we used for years) in any diesel made before 2008.  In spite of the fact that there are lots of pre 2008 diesels, the oil companies no longer make and sell it.   Has anyone seen any?)

Bobby

On Wed, Nov 2, 2011 at 5:29 AM, Doug <doug.traylor@cebridge.net> wrote:
 

  Here is a large part of the answer as too why Diesel Fuel is so much more expensive than gasoline,, we have small mountains of sulfur along the ship channel here in Houston area, as per the EPA, they have to refine almost all the sulfur from the Diesel fuel, too make ultra low sulfur fuels,,thats very expensive, an then someone has too store all that huge amount of sulfur, thats very expensive, too much of it, an nothing its good for either. So, NOW we pay at the pump.
 
  Back in the good old days of cheap Diesel fuel, all that sulfur went out the tailpipe as pollution, an eventually acid rain an such,,, you guys from California should remember, an know that clean air costs us all money,, ya do remember CARB right, well its all over Texas too now,  we pay about 50 cents a gallon of Diesel for cleaner air, which is rare around Houston..
 
  My concern, being a long time Diesel Tech /Instructor, is what is the long term effect upon my darling 300d s  fuel system, an pistons, maybe valves.  Will my like new running engine still last forever with the ultra low sulfur or not,, thats a good question.
 
  So bottom line, now we are having too pay a lot extra for the ultra low sulfur Diesel fuel, is it worth the cost, in cancer rate, an are we loosing part of the energy in the fuel at the same time.  Our exhaust systems should last longer, without all the sulfuric acid coming thu.
 
   Lots of unanswered questions other than the premium cost we are having to pay at the pump. I do not think there are answers to many of the questions, but one thing for sure, our Mercedes engines were designed to run on Diesel fuel that contained mucho sulfur, a type fuel no longer available, except in maybe Mexico.
     Anyone want about a million tons of raw sulfur, Texas will sell it to you CHEAP, almost free, come get the stuff, makes an ugly mountain here in Texas. Plus it stinks like someone eating too much bean dip.   
     Doug Traylor   300d daily driver, 300SD carport parts queen w/ wunderbar turbo engine.




--
Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: water leak

 

Chuck,

we discussed this a few months back and someone posted a link to a youtube video on finding leaks in Mercedes. I have the same problem. Of course I forgot about it all summer. Will have to fix when rain starts. The video shows that there is a seam that can leak in the area by the wipers. Has to be sealed and you will be good. Can someone post that video address again.

thanks, Nick

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "c24052000" <jcrcpa@...> wrote:
>
> This weekend I want to try to fix the water leak in the front window area of the car. I think it is probably a clogged drain below the wipers. Where do the drains exit the car? I am thinking it will be easier to blow air back up the drain, as opposed to taking the metal screen out.
>
> If I have to take out the screen, how does it come out? screws, clips, ? I did not see an easy removal method.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chuck
> 84 300sd
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Car Starts...fixed for $20...thanks!

 


You found it ! that dim light of the tester is the parasitic drain , go start removing fuses until it goes out .

The fuses are indeed aluminum , any VW/BMW/Porsche/Mercedes partshaus or Garage will have the correct copper strip ones in stock , under $1each , if they're really honest , you'll get packs of 5 fuses for $1 .

Get 10 of each : white or black , 8 A. red , 16 A. Blue 30 A.

You _WILL_ be using these ere long .

Post up what year & model your car is again and Brian willprolly find you the fusebox lid cardboard that explains what goes were , each fuse has a *tiny* number casted into the black plastic next to it to correspond with the cardboard .

(_DON'T_ pi$$ off SWMBO !)

-Nate
Caitlin wrote:
>
> THE BATTERY:
>
> So I went to pick up my charged battery at O'Reilly this morning and they
> told me the battery wasn't holding a charge at all.
>
> Battery was dated 9/10, and was a Walmart "everubermaxxierawr" or whatever
> with a 3-year warranty.
>
> Went to Walmart to kindly exchange...but they no longer carry the exact
> model of the trashed battery and the new one was about $18 "more". Ok,
> fine. Cheaper than $100!
>
> Oh, and I sprung for $2 terminal bolts...muuuuuch better.
>
> This new battery was like 97lbs so my gal helped me heft it in place,
> re-installed (sat it nicely in the tray, and YES...NOW i see the bolts and
> the battery lip...just need that little piece...) and Betty started a
> little roughly after 5 days of sitting, but she started!
>
>
> THE GREMLIN (and the fuse box):
>
> I think my persistent drain is also intermittent. The rear foot light
> (what's the proper name for that thing?) was NOT on now, and I only got a
> small glow with the circuit tester. I might come back to this, and I'll
> definitely re-test when I have a weird light that won't go out.
>
> I checked the fuses and some look pretty old, most look aluminum...and I am
> missing the info card on the lid. I am trying to upload a picture (I have
> 2) of it because it almost looks like there are fuses missing...from a
> front row? looks like they'd only have one contact point so maybe these
> holes stay empty? But one has a fuse in it that looks pretty worn.
>
> Gremlin symptoms I have noticed: when I test drove the car didn't notice
> anything, when i picked up the car...rear dome wouldn't go off no matter
> what I tried (so I unplugged it). Sunday when Betty wouldn't start,
> noticed that rear driver side "foot" light in the bottom of the door was on
> and wouldn't turn off. Now it's off. (????)
>
>
> Anyway...I have some big (to me) projects ahead...more on that later.
>
> Thanks for being such a great bunch :)
>
> ~Caitlin in Santa Fe
> --
> Forget safety. Live where you fear to live.
> Destroy your reputation. Be notorious.
> I have tried prudent planning long enough.
> From now on, I'll be mad.
>
> - Rumi
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re : Diesel Price

 


Yep ;

.30 to .50 Cents over gasoline , all over L.A., where it _should_ be cheaper as we refine it right dang here . =8-( .

-Nate
Max Ponders :
>
> Does anyone else have diesel ..................50cents a gallon over regular gas? Max
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re : Battery Hold Down

 


It uses two little steel holders in the front of the battery , they're cheap new @ dealer or maybe junkyard or Indie M-B shop , you'll also need two 6 MM nuts , they'll take a 10 MM socket to install .

Don't sweat the battery clamp nuts ,,just use the correct box end 13 MM wrench , the ratcheting wrenches usually are too big around to fit in close , careful you don't punch a hole in the battery nor crack the post loose , best to not use hokey-a$$ed ratcheting wrenches .

-Nate
Caitlin wrote:
>
> Hi Nate,
>
> I totally appreciate all the info! And I'm thrifty too, so I'm always grateful for "inexpensive but effective" tool tips etc.
>
> So...I actually got'er out before I saw your post, but there's lotsa good stuff in here...
>
> I only had a crescent wrench (kinda little) and obvi that's not the best, and the one nut started out a teensy bit stripped, now it's worse.
>
> Q: I'd like to replace the nuts, what size do I get?
>
> My buddy with the 300TD has shmancy metric wrenches with ratcheting "box" ends, guess I'll borrow those tomorrow :)
>
> That battery IS HEAVY holy cow...but also super super clean, no corrosion or schmutz, just some dust around the bottom from sitting in the dirty tray (oh look...leaves. nice). My gf carried it halfway, she's strong...lotsa yoga or somethin ;)
>
> A generous friend has loaned me her car, so I took the battery to O'Reilly (less than 10 min away) and asked for an overnight trickle charge (they give you a choice, yay!) and the service is free. I didn't think anything was free anymore!
>
> I am 90% sure my problem was an electrical gremlin causing a persistant drain...been driving that thing every day with no problem...then it sits for 2.5 days and it won't start. random cabin lights will not shut off...so...that's my working hypothesis for after I get the battery back in.
>
>
> Q: Is there a way to secure the battery to the tray that isn't a giant PIA? How necessary is this? (mine wasn't attached in anyway, just sitting in the shallow tray, as reported by the mechanic)
>
>
> Thanks!
> Caitlin

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[diesel_mercedes] Re : Cooling System Draining

 


No ;I use the drain plug to drain it into a pan then I remove the lower hose end to facilitate better flushing and internal inspection .

Remember : coolant is DEATH ! it tastes sweet so kids &pets will drink it and _DIE_ ~ not get sick , they'll DIE so be careful when you drain it out , jug it right away and rinse down the spillage with a hose .

-Nate
Caitlin wrote:
>
> I think Trish was telling me that same advice...those T kits just seemed too flimsy...so I appreciate all the confirmation. Gonna return it tomorrow when I pick up my charged battery and get something useful ;)
>
> Nate, you undo the lower hose instead of just using the drain plug on the bottom? This is on my short list, so I'm gathering up intel ;)
>
> Thanks!
> Caitlin in Santa Fe
>
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Re : broken cruise control

 


Tony ;

Save yourself some time & hassle , just unplug the dead one and plug the P-A-P one into the harness & bungie it up out of the way , give it a test drive .

Remember : these things seem to prefer a quick lift & release to set them ,not hold and wait until you feel it begin to accelerate .

-Nate
Tony wrote:
>
> Hey guys, on my car apparently the cc module us on the left of the steering shaft, I picked one up from the Pap near the racetrack, boy they did not have nearly as many goodies as when I was in Lost Wages in the spring. Dunno if we will try the Henderson one. Gonna have to buy a screwdriver to get the original one out, I sweet talked a guy at the Pap to take the only one there out of the car, now I gotta wriggle under and get the two phillips out.
> Tony.
>
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Datsun Tranny Help !

 


I have a 1980 Datsun B210 and I need to know :

What typ of ATF it uses and

How to adjust the vacuum modulator .

I know someone here will either know this info or , know where to find it , I have no luck with Google searches...

TIA ,

-Nate

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: diesel

 

Gonna argue the carbon tax thing, it is the same in Canada, Diesel sells for more there too. & Clinton did not preside in Canada. The oil companies are bending us over with no kisses.

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, briankk <briankk@...> wrote:
>
> It's an artifact of Clintons carbon tax...
>
> --- On Tue, 11/1/11, Lost but making good time. <aldridgetony97@...> wrote:
>
> From: Lost but making good time. <aldridgetony97@...>
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: diesel
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, November 1, 2011, 9:38 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 85 cents higher than regular at some spots in Lost Wages today. It is a shuck, diesel is a lower quality fuel that gas, should be less money. But they can get it so they charge it.
>
>
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "max_stemple" <jasperezra@> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > Does anyone else have diesel ..................50cents a gallon over regular gas? Max
>
> >
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Caitlin's No Start

 

Those fuse box lids are all over the place in PAP's. I think I have 2 or 3 with the paper diagram, and I think the owners manual has the info, and maybe even Haynes manual too.
 
brian from la verne, ca
From: CaitlinDean <tinymachine@gmail.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 2, 2011 4:41 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Caitlin's No Start

 
I posted pics of my open fuse box...there's no chart :( but some definitely look worn, and my gremlin is back...so I'll probably do this tomorrow.

Caitlin in Santa Fe

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, BStromsoe <bstromsoe@...> wrote:
>
> Fuses are cheap insurance. I get the copper ones, and I change them ALL annually no matter what they look like.  
>
>  
> brian from la verne, ca
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Joe ONeill <mnijfo@...>
> To: "diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 2, 2011 7:29 AM
> Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Caitlin's No Start
>
>
>  
>
>
> Caitlin,
>  
> While the subject of fuses is open, I always replace ALL the fuses with copper core ones when I get a new (old) Mercedes, using an electronic parts cleaner while at it on all connections. A complete set can be purchased pretty cheap online from the sources previously mentioned (or on eBay).  Doesn't take long and can save many hours of troubleshooting or even a breakdown down the road.
>  
> Joe
> From: c24052000 <jcrcpa@...>
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, November 2, 2011 9:14 AM
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Caitlin's No Start
>
>
>  
> >regarding the electrical problem. Buy a test light (looks like a screwdriver with a point on one end and a clamp at the other, with a light in the middle) Search youtube for video on testing for electrical problems on mercedes. Or, disconnect negative cable, attach one end of tester to battery post, one end to negative cable. If light glows when attached with car off, there is a drain. Pull fuses one at a time until the light goes off. I start with fuse # 13. see what is on that fuse and look for the reason for the short.
> >At least that is what happened with my car. Electric antenna motor was draining the battery.
> >
> >Chuck
> >
> >--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "CaitlinDean" <tinymachine@> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi Nate,
> >>
> >> I totally appreciate all the info! And I'm thrifty too, so
> I'm always grateful for "inexpensive but effective" tool tips etc.
> >>
> >> So...I actually got'er out before I saw your post, but there's lotsa good stuff in here...
> >>
> >> I only had a crescent wrench (kinda little) and obvi that's not the best, and the one nut started out a teensy bit stripped, now it's worse.
> >>
> >> Q: I'd like to replace the nuts, what size do I get?
> >>
> >> My buddy with the 300TD has shmancy metric wrenches with ratcheting "box" ends, guess I'll borrow those tomorrow :)
> >>
> >> That battery IS HEAVY holy cow...but also super super clean, no corrosion or schmutz, just some dust around the bottom from sitting in the dirty tray (oh look...leaves. nice). My gf carried it halfway, she's strong...lotsa yoga or somethin ;)
> >>
> >> A generous friend has loaned me her car, so I took the battery to O'Reilly (less than 10 min away) and asked for an overnight trickle charge (they give
> you a choice, yay!) and the service is free. I didn't think anything was free anymore!
> >>
> >> I am 90% sure my problem was an electrical gremlin causing a persistant drain...been driving that thing every day with no problem...then it sits for 2.5 days and it won't start. random cabin lights will not shut off...so...that's my working hypothesis for after I get the battery back in.
> >>
> >>
> >> Q: Is there a way to secure the battery to the tray that isn't a giant PIA? How necessary is this? (mine wasn't attached in anyway, just sitting in the shallow tray, as reported by the mechanic)
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks!
> >> Caitlin in Santa Fe
> >>
> >>
> >> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@> wrote:
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > I see lotsa posts
> here and I don't want to overwhelm you but :
> >> >
> >> > A. you asked
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > ~and~
> >> >
> >> > B. I'm not only a Journeyman Mechanic but also a " Yankee Thrifty " (piker cheapskate) so my suggestions will usually involve much less $ and usually some labor on your part , ready ? O.K. lets begin :
> >> >
> >> > Take two cheap Dollar Store wrenches , one 13 X 14 MM , one 1/2" X 9/16" , both to be the double ended typ with one open end and one closed or ' box' end , pop your hood and support it with your left hand whilst you fiddle with the little releasing lock on the leading edge of the hinge's joint with your right hand , once it pulls out a bit , you can raise the hood a tiny bit more , now go 'round and do the same thing on the right side hood hinge and the hood can easily be raised straight up , making battery service dead easy . (cool, eh ? those whacky Germans) DO NOT
> force it ! .
> >> >
> >> > Look at the battery , one cable will be obviously connected to the body , use the box end wrench that fits the nut snugly (now you see why I had you bring both Metric & Fractional tools) to loosen the nut whilst holding the cable with your other hand so it doesn't move the post & damage the battery , once the nut is a turn ot three loose , twist the clamp , as soon as it moves, reverse direction & lift gently , a few wiggles and it'll pop off , tuck it down behind the battery & repeat on the other cable & clamp , put the tools away and lift the _HEAVY_ (800 + CCA) battery out & set it on whatever you have to drag it back to the house in , old shopping cart , wagon etc. once it's home , set it in the laundry sink & wash it well with soap then connect your cheapo $13 WallyMart 3A. battery charger& leave it alone for at least 12 hours , meanwhilst you can /might / prolly should mix up
> a coffee can full of hot water & baking soda and use that to soak the battery cable ends until they no longer fizz , then rinse well and blot dry with paper towels .
> >> >
> >> > Once the battery is charged , place it back in the car and connect the + cable first , then the - Cable , it is *very* important to always disconnect the ground cable first and connect it last , this prevent sparks , fires , burned hands , ruined batteries and blindness caused when the battery explodes in your face .
> >> >
> >> > See if the car cranks & starts , if it clicks , try turning on the headlights ~ they work ? good , now , leave them on and see if they go out when you try to crank it .
> >> >
> >> > If they go out , there's a connection problem .
> >> >
> >> > If they remain bright and the engine doesn't crank , there's a relay / starter keyswitch problem , no worries , we'll get you going soon .
> >>
> >
> >> > How you address it , makes the job go easier and repairs last longer & co$t le$$ too =8-) .
> >> >
> >> > -Nate
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Caitlin's No Start

 

You need to get a copy of the chart and put the right amp fuse in each slot. Someone should be able to provide one for your year and chassis. I have a 124 chassis or I would post mine for you


Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone


-----Original message-----
From: CaitlinDean <tinymachine@gmail.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, Nov 2, 2011 23:45:09 GMT+00:00
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Caitlin's No Start

 

I posted pics of my open fuse box...there's no chart :( but some definitely look worn, and my gremlin is back...so I'll probably do this tomorrow.

Caitlin in Santa Fe

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, BStromsoe <bstromsoe@...> wrote:
>
> Fuses are cheap insurance. I get the copper ones, and I change them ALL annually no matter what they look like.  
>
>  
> brian from la verne, ca
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Joe ONeill <mnijfo@...>
> To: "diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 2, 2011 7:29 AM
> Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Caitlin's No Start
>
>
>  
>
>
> Caitlin,
>  
> While the subject of fuses is open, I always replace ALL the fuses with copper core ones when I get a new (old) Mercedes, using an electronic parts cleaner while at it on all connections. A complete set can be purchased pretty cheap online from the sources previously mentioned (or on eBay).  Doesn't take long and can save many hours of troubleshooting or even a breakdown down the road.
>  
> Joe
> From: c24052000 <jcrcpa@...>
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, November 2, 2011 9:14 AM
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Caitlin's No Start
>
>
>  
> >regarding the electrical problem. Buy a test light (looks like a screwdriver with a point on one end and a clamp at the other, with a light in the middle) Search youtube for video on testing for electrical problems on mercedes. Or, disconnect negative cable, attach one end of tester to battery post, one end to negative cable. If light glows when attached with car off, there is a drain. Pull fuses one at a time until the light goes off. I start with fuse # 13. see what is on that fuse and look for the reason for the short.
> >At least that is what happened with my car. Electric antenna motor was draining the battery.
> >
> >Chuck
> >
> >--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "CaitlinDean" <tinymachine@> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi Nate,
> >>
> >> I totally appreciate all the info! And I'm thrifty too, so
> I'm always grateful for "inexpensive but effective" tool tips etc.
> >>
> >> So...I actually got'er out before I saw your post, but there's lotsa good stuff in here...
> >>
> >> I only had a crescent wrench (kinda little) and obvi that's not the best, and the one nut started out a teensy bit stripped, now it's worse.
> >>
> >> Q: I'd like to replace the nuts, what size do I get?
> >>
> >> My buddy with the 300TD has shmancy metric wrenches with ratcheting "box" ends, guess I'll borrow those tomorrow :)
> >>
> >> That battery IS HEAVY holy cow...but also super super clean, no corrosion or schmutz, just some dust around the bottom from sitting in the dirty tray (oh look...leaves. nice). My gf carried it halfway, she's strong...lotsa yoga or somethin ;)
> >>
> >> A generous friend has loaned me her car, so I took the battery to O'Reilly (less than 10 min away) and asked for an overnight trickle charge (they give
> you a choice, yay!) and the service is free. I didn't think anything was free anymore!
> >>
> >> I am 90% sure my problem was an electrical gremlin causing a persistant drain...been driving that thing every day with no problem...then it sits for 2.5 days and it won't start. random cabin lights will not shut off...so...that's my working hypothesis for after I get the battery back in.
> >>
> >>
> >> Q: Is there a way to secure the battery to the tray that isn't a giant PIA? How necessary is this? (mine wasn't attached in anyway, just sitting in the shallow tray, as reported by the mechanic)
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks!
> >> Caitlin in Santa Fe
> >>
> >>
> >> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@> wrote:
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > I see lotsa posts
> here and I don't want to overwhelm you but :
> >> >
> >> > A. you asked
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > ~and~
> >> >
> >> > B. I'm not only a Journeyman Mechanic but also a " Yankee Thrifty " (piker cheapskate) so my suggestions will usually involve much less $ and usually some labor on your part , ready ? O.K. lets begin :
> >> >
> >> > Take two cheap Dollar Store wrenches , one 13 X 14 MM , one 1/2" X 9/16" , both to be the double ended typ with one open end and one closed or ' box' end , pop your hood and support it with your left hand whilst you fiddle with the little releasing lock on the leading edge of the hinge's joint with your right hand , once it pulls out a bit , you can raise the hood a tiny bit more , now go 'round and do the same thing on the right side hood hinge and the hood can easily be raised straight up , making battery service dead easy . (cool, eh ? those whacky Germans) DO NOT
> force it ! .
> >> >
> >> > Look at the battery , one cable will be obviously connected to the body , use the box end wrench that fits the nut snugly (now you see why I had you bring both Metric & Fractional tools) to loosen the nut whilst holding the cable with your other hand so it doesn't move the post & damage the battery , once the nut is a turn ot three loose , twist the clamp , as soon as it moves, reverse direction & lift gently , a few wiggles and it'll pop off , tuck it down behind the battery & repeat on the other cable & clamp , put the tools away and lift the _HEAVY_ (800 + CCA) battery out & set it on whatever you have to drag it back to the house in , old shopping cart , wagon etc. once it's home , set it in the laundry sink & wash it well with soap then connect your cheapo $13 WallyMart 3A. battery charger& leave it alone for at least 12 hours , meanwhilst you can /might / prolly should mix up
> a coffee can full of hot water & baking soda and use that to soak the battery cable ends until they no longer fizz , then rinse well and blot dry with paper towels .
> >> >
> >> > Once the battery is charged , place it back in the car and connect the + cable first , then the - Cable , it is *very* important to always disconnect the ground cable first and connect it last , this prevent sparks , fires , burned hands , ruined batteries and blindness caused when the battery explodes in your face .
> >> >
> >> > See if the car cranks & starts , if it clicks , try turning on the headlights ~ they work ? good , now , leave them on and see if they go out when you try to crank it .
> >> >
> >> > If they go out , there's a connection problem .
> >> >
> >> > If they remain bright and the engine doesn't crank , there's a relay / starter keyswitch problem , no worries , we'll get you going soon .
> >>
> >
> >> > How you address it , makes the job go easier and repairs last longer & co$t le$$ too =8-) .
> >> >
> >> > -Nate
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

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