RE: [diesel_mercedes] Charging Lamp

 

Faint glow of charging indicator bulb at idle may not be bad; ask any pre-1967 VW owner.  Bill in Oregon

 

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bud S
Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2014 5:46 PM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Charging Lamp

 

 

OK, I have no idea what I really did today. Removed the cluster the other day enough to get to the bulbs. Found bulbs missing for brake pad wear sensors, no bulb for seat belt, no bulb for high beam.

Put new bulbs in except for high beam(there was no receptacle for it). Turned the key to on and same ole same ole, just a warning light for emergency brake preglow.

Took the main connector off and reinstalled. Pushed the cluster back in. Went to start the car and got the charge indicator light, brake and preglow to come on, started the car and the charge indicator went off.

Drove it around and have very faint glow at idle on the charge indicator. My idle might be too low, the tach doesn't work. Stopped the car, restarted and got the charge indicator light on again. So I guess it's working like it's supposed to.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

 

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Charging Lamp

 

OK, I have no idea what I really did today. Removed the cluster the other day enough to get to the bulbs. Found bulbs missing for brake pad wear sensors, no bulb for seat belt, no bulb for high beam.

Put new bulbs in except for high beam(there was no receptacle for it). Turned the key to on and same ole same ole, just a warning light for emergency brake preglow.

Took the main connector off and reinstalled. Pushed the cluster back in. Went to start the car and got the charge indicator light, brake and preglow to come on, started the car and the charge indicator went off.

Drove it around and have very faint glow at idle on the charge indicator. My idle might be too low, the tach doesn't work. Stopped the car, restarted and got the charge indicator light on again. So I guess it's working like it's supposed to.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android


From: Bud S <budski252@yahoo.com>;
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>;
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Charging Lamp
Sent: Thu, Jan 9, 2014 9:01:33 PM

 

Thanks Nate,
I'll try that in the next day or two.

Bud

I see you have the same typing ability as I do :0



On Wednesday, January 8, 2014 10:35 PM, "vwnate1@yahoo.com" <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:
 

O.K. Bud ;

If you tuen the key on then ground the skinny wire leading to the ALTERNATOR , THE CHARGE LAMP SHOULD & MUST COME ON , IF NOT , i'D FIRST CHECK THE DASH BULB AND HOLDER , THEN THE mpc.....

Oops , damn caps lock again .

-Nate


Bud Wrote :

No, the light has never come on since I've had it.  There's always been something wrong with the charging system and I found out there was a late model VR without the "L" leg installed.  Got a Bosch with the "L" leg and it's been charging the battery since I put it in.

Bud



On Monday, January 6, 2014 5:17 PM, "vwnate1@..." <vwnate1@...> wrote:
 

No ;

This is wrong/bad .

Does the low charge light ever come on ? .

-Nate

Bud Wrote :

Just an update, since I've put the new regulator in, it's been charging like a champ.  The only oddball thing is that the battery warning light on the dash does not come on when I put the key to the glow position.  Does that sound right?

Thanks,
Bud
http://www.rhinocat.com/cvaf4u/


On Friday, December 27, 2013 12:38 PM, Bud S <budski252@...> wrote:
 
Thanks Bogy and Carl, I got a wild hair when I woke up this morning and ran the voltage regulator number Vemo V10-77-0001 that was in the car and the replacement and I called my parts house and it seems this regulator is for newer 300sd's.

Dug some more and found http://www.regitar.com/FlyerPDF/cs.pdf which gives info on regulators.  The vemo cross references to a Bosch 1197311027 which doesn't have an "L" leg for the light on the instrument panel.

No light when I turn the key to on, my understanding is the light has to excite the alternator then the light drops out.  I also get a faint glow from the brake light and I replaced the pads and sensors.

I have on order a 1197311004 that has the "L" leg, so I guess I'll see what happens when I replace it. 

Bud
http://www.rhinocat.com/cvaf4u/


On Thursday, December 26, 2013 11:35 PM, Bogy Wan Kenobi <polespearbogy@...> wrote:
 
Bud:

When you plugged the relay back in it behaved as if it was just turned on by the ignition key and began to heat the plugs. Had you given it a few seconds it would have, or at least should have, kicked off and the voltage would have risen back to the idling voltage. If it was me I would chase the alternator because I think your new regulator has failed.

I believe you can disconnect the alternator at the junction block on the right inner fender well. There should be two 'heavy' red cloth covered wires. Some models have them go from the alternator to the starter and then up to the junction block and some go right to the junction block from the alternator. Disconnect them and then attach them to a load like a headlight. Then measure the voltage. If it is still 12.?? volts then the regulator has failed. If it is up to 14.? volts then you have a heavy load or wiring problem.

Just to put it in perspective, one of those heavy wires goes right to the glow plug relay as supply power for the plugs. The other heavy wire goes to the light switch and from there supplies the entire rest of the car. In other words - the glow plugs pull as much as, or more than, the current used by the whole rest of the car.

COLD glow plugs pull upwards of 75 amps for the pencil type. That quickly drops as the plugs warm up. But that initial load  can drop the battery voltage a volt or two. If you disconnect the glow plugs and the voltage rises up to 14.5 volts then you have a GP relay issue. But you have to disconnect the plug with the heavy wires at the glow plug relay. It's the bigger of the two plugs.

Alternatively, you could place a 60 or 80 amp meter between the two heavy red wires and the junction block. Give it 15 minutes to allow for battery charging. A "lot" of current (40 to 80 Amps) flowing during those 15 minutes is the alternator charging the battery. If you only get a few amps or no amps during that 15 minutes then your alternator is bad. But if the current stays maxed out at 40 to 80 amps then you have a wiring problem. If it never goes up you have an alternator/regulator problem.

But your description of the problem sounds more like a failed regulator/alternator to me.

You could pull the alternator and have it tested. But Autozone and checker can't do it. You will have to take it to an auto electric guy or maybe NAPA or such.

This is just my two cents.
But FWIW, I am an electrical engineer.
Bogy.




On Thursday, December 26, 2013 7:43 PM, diyernh <diyernh@...> wrote:

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Cold Starting.

 

Actually in the 240D and 300D that I had which seemed extraordinarily reluctant to start, heavy use of ether seemed to have accelerated burning of the glow plug tips.


On Sat, Jan 11, 2014 at 11:55 AM, <aldridgetony97@yahoo.com> wrote:
 

Curious, my old chev with a 6.2L diesel warned against using ether (starting fluid) because the glow plugs may cause the ether to light up and damage the engine.

Any one have any experience or theories about using it with our Mercedes 5 cyl engines?
I know I know here in Mazatlan the block heater shines every day, but will soon enough be back in the land of below freezing.
Tony




--
Al Boucher

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Cold Starting.

 

I blew out a head gasket on a generator once, last time I used it. Your right. With a worn out engine, maybe. In fact when I first bought my 1959 190D the people were using starting fluid. Diesels are funny that way, worn out would not start unless warm, but driving it the power did not seem any different after rebuilding it. Max


On Sat, Jan 11, 2014 at 9:40 AM, <corvallis@peoplepc.com> wrote:


The compression ratio is way too high to use Starting Fluid, I'm told. I have heard of people using spray can 3-In-One oil. Nate?  Bill in Oregon

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of aldridgetony97@yahoo.com
Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2014 8:55 AM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Cold Starting.

 

Curious, my old chev with a 6.2L diesel warned against using ether (starting fluid) because the glow plugs may cause the ether to light up and damage the engine.

Any one have any experience or theories about using it with our Mercedes 5 cyl engines?

I know I know here in Mazatlan the block heater shines every day, but will soon enough be back in the land of below freezing.

Tony




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RE: [diesel_mercedes] Cold Starting.

 

The compression ratio is way too high to use Starting Fluid, I’m told. I have heard of people using spray can 3-In-One oil. Nate?  Bill in Oregon

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of aldridgetony97@yahoo.com
Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2014 8:55 AM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Cold Starting.

 

Curious, my old chev with a 6.2L diesel warned against using ether (starting fluid) because the glow plugs may cause the ether to light up and damage the engine.

Any one have any experience or theories about using it with our Mercedes 5 cyl engines?

I know I know here in Mazatlan the block heater shines every day, but will soon enough be back in the land of below freezing.

Tony

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Cold Starting.

 

Even in sunny So. Cal. - my glow plug light was dimming, and now is dead. Today I will change my glow plugs (I've had new ones in the trunk for 12 months). Wish I had a reamer in there too, but I was too cheap to spring for one at the time.

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, <aldridgetony97@...> wrote:
>
> Curious, my old chev with a 6.2L diesel warned against using ether (starting fluid) because the glow plugs may cause the ether to light up and damage the engine.
> Any one have any experience or theories about using it with our Mercedes 5 cyl engines?
> I know I know here in Mazatlan the block heater shines every day, but will soon enough be back in the land of below freezing.
> Tony
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Cold Starting.

 

Curious, my old chev with a 6.2L diesel warned against using ether (starting fluid) because the glow plugs may cause the ether to light up and damage the engine.

Any one have any experience or theories about using it with our Mercedes 5 cyl engines?
I know I know here in Mazatlan the block heater shines every day, but will soon enough be back in the land of below freezing.
Tony

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RE: [diesel_mercedes] OK, how do we deal with Ins companies with our old cars?

 

Replacement value should factor into it.

Some older cars policies have a pre-agreed-to replacement value written into them.

 

If you don’t need the money from a settlement right away, pause at each step in the process; think about it a few days.

If you buy the same make and model, use that price plus the cost of the most improvements.

Make copies of your receipts and give them to the person you’re dealing with.

 

There may be the option of buying the car back if the company “totals” it. You could then save usable parts that are there.

 

Your year is too new to show in Hagarty and too old to show in Kelley,

http://www.hagerty.com/valuationtools/HVT/VehicleSearch

 

http://www.kbb.com/used-cars/

 

This might help, but they don’t show a 240.  Take donuts to meetings at their office. Bill in Oregon

http://www.nadaguides.com/Classic-Cars/1980/Volvo

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Aleph93
Sent: Friday, January 10, 2014 7:45 PM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] OK, how do we deal with Ins companies with our old cars?

 

Hi everyone,

My MB is fine, yet my wife's '86 240 Volvo is totaled. Some as***le
turned left into her this morning, smashing the front end of the car,
and sending her to the hospital. She has no broken bones, yet is very
sore. Could have been much worse.

Next is dealing with the insurance company regarding an '86 Volvo w/
250,000 miles, yet ran great. I had recently redone most of the
suspension: springs, struts (Bilstein HD), anti-sway bars, mag wheels,
etc, with top quality parts and was working on the rest. This really
sucks. I expect the ins company to low ball this car, and try to pay us
nothing.
How do we deal with Ins companies with our old cars?

We've already started looking on Craig's List for a replacement.

Thanks

Rob
'85 MB 300D
Garden Grove, CA

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