Well I just broke the rear window out of my wife '85 wagon by accident trying to load a water heater to sell used for $40. What a drag. Anyhow anyone know where to get one, central east coast or as close to Maryland as possible, or maybe an online site.
Thanks for any help. It sure would help me get out of the dog house.
| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (1) |
The lens/reflectors designed for bulbs assume a bulb filament of a specific dimension at a specific place (focus of the reflector.) It is very hard to duplicate this with an aftermarket LED "bulb." You will be disappointed by the results. Bill in From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of audiolaw@aol.com Tom, I have an entirely different question for you. I recently replace the left rear light assembly on my 1981 300SD. I found a good, uncracked one on a 560 SEL in the Monrovia PaP yard. I brought it home, took the lens off the plastic frame, washed it thoroughly, washed the lamp housing, let it all dry completely. After reassembly, and installation of all new bulbs, it fit into my car perfectly, as only a 32 year old Mercedes part can. But while putting in the new bulbs, I started wondering about LEDs. We are getting superbrite LEDs now that have almost the same light output as an incandescent bulb, but at a much lower current draw. I wonder whether we can use LED bulbs in the turn signals. I know that some turn signal activators, particularly "of a certain age" (as we say of beautiful women and machines), required enough current draw from the bulbs to activate. Are the turn signal activators in 123 and 126 series cars able to operate with the low current draw of LEDs? Considering the price of LED bulbs still, I am not excited enough to test them out on my own. But I just know that you folks at the Cordially, The other Tom: '81 300SD, 37+,+++ miles Bill, This is an issue with all LED bulbs. It is amazing what engineering innovations are coming in to the bulb market these days. I have no doubt that there will be LED bulbs that adequately emulate the light throw patterns of incadenscents in a few years. The fact that the current bulbs are available in 1156 format is encouraging. But your comment doesn't actually address the question that I asked. Tom In a message dated 4/2/2013 5:51:51 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, corvallis@peoplepc.com writes:
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2013 5:40 PM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] 123 & 126 Turn signals question
| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (3) |
The lens/reflectors designed for bulbs assume a bulb filament of a specific dimension at a specific place (focus of the reflector.) It is very hard to duplicate this with an aftermarket LED “bulb.” You will be disappointed by the results. Bill in
From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of audiolaw@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2013 5:40 PM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] 123 & 126 Turn signals question
Tom,
I have an entirely different question for you.
I recently replace the left rear light assembly on my 1981 300SD. I found a good, uncracked one on a 560 SEL in the Monrovia PaP yard. I brought it home, took the lens off the plastic frame, washed it thoroughly, washed the lamp housing, let it all dry completely.
After reassembly, and installation of all new bulbs, it fit into my car perfectly, as only a 32 year old Mercedes part can.
But while putting in the new bulbs, I started wondering about LEDs. We are getting superbrite LEDs now that have almost the same light output as an incandescent bulb, but at a much lower current draw.
I wonder whether we can use LED bulbs in the turn signals. I know that some turn signal activators, particularly "of a certain age" (as we say of beautiful women and machines), required enough current draw from the bulbs to activate.
Are the turn signal activators in 123 and 126 series cars able to operate with the low current draw of LEDs? Considering the price of LED bulbs still, I am not excited enough to test them out on my own. But I just know that you folks at the
Cordially,
The other Tom: '81 300SD, 37+,+++ miles
| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (2) |
Tom, I have an entirely different question for you. I recently replace the left rear light assembly on my 1981 300SD. I found a good, uncracked one on a 560 SEL in the Monrovia PaP yard. I brought it home, took the lens off the plastic frame, washed it thoroughly, washed the lamp housing, let it all dry completely. After reassembly, and installation of all new bulbs, it fit into my car perfectly, as only a 32 year old Mercedes part can. But while putting in the new bulbs, I started wondering about LEDs. We are getting superbrite LEDs now that have almost the same light output as an incandescent bulb, but at a much lower current draw. I wonder whether we can use LED bulbs in the turn signals. I know that some turn signal activators, particularly "of a certain age" (as we say of beautiful women and machines), required enough current draw from the bulbs to activate. Are the turn signal activators in 123 and 126 series cars able to operate with the low current draw of LEDs? Considering the price of LED bulbs still, I am not excited enough to test them out on my own. But I just know that you folks at the Classic Center will either know the answer, or know who in Stuttgart to get the answer from. Cordially, The other Tom: '81 300SD, 37+,+++ miles
| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (1) |
| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (1) |
| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (8) |
I installed them yesterday. I coated the backs of them with the brake anti-squeal goo. They stop the car. They do not squeal. I cleaned the crud off my wheels. I will have to drive it around some before I can give you the update on whether my wheels stay clean(er) or not. So far, though, they appear to be good pads.
Jim
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "n61cm" <jim@...> wrote:
>
> I got the Posi-Quiet front brake pads today. Got them super fast off ebay seller
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/370628194422
>
> The face of them are indeed a light brown/tan color like the photo.
>
> Did a search on the reference number on the box 105.01451 and appears that Posi-Quiet are manufactured by Centric.
>
> Will let you know how they perform both in terms of braking and dust as I get them on the car over the next couple of weeks.
>
> My current brakes are fine except for the filth. I don't remember what brand or type they are but I'm sure my former self opted for cheap.
>
> These Posi-Quiets aren't expensive, though, so maybe I was just too ignernt to buy them.
>
> Jim
>
| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (3) |
So you just wipe it on, let it dry, and wipe on another coat, and so on? No polishing it off in between?
Jim
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Parolin" <stevenparolin@...> wrote:
>
> Simple to put on, no buffing off, ues it takes 5-6 coats to look good, but each coat takes 5-10 minutes, so over all about as much time as regular wax.
>
> Steve
>
| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (7) |
Wow, that sounds incredibly tedious. I don't think I could do that.
Jim
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, diyernh <diyernh@...> wrote:
>
> You need to remove the windshield, then clean off any sealant left on
> the frame. Add a 3/8" window rope seal into the corner of the frame,
> mash it down to fillet in the corner. Put the new seal on the
> windshield while it's out of the car. I used duct tape to hold the seal
> to the window. On the outside of the seal, there is a lip that will be
> stretched over the inside metal window frame. I put a lubricated 1/4"
> cotton rope in there, two times around. Lift the window/seal into
> place. Inside the car, you pull the rope in, which lifts the seal over
> the frame. Gently push on the seal/window from the outside. No extra
> hard force! If anything, you are just pushing the windshield down to
> avoid the rope/seal from moving the window away from where it is pulling.
>
> Trim work: 3 small phillips hold the front of the drip rail. Put duct
> tape in the hole in the fender if you drop a screw. A piece of wood and
> mallet will tap the trim upwards along the roof. You don't need to
> remove the entire trim, just push up about a foot or so until the front
> end can be pulled out of the fender. Pad the loose end and tape it
> down. You will probably bump it while working on the window. It will
> scratch your paint.
>
> The aluminum trim around the window can be pried out slowly with a large
> blade or screwdriver. Lubricate it before reinstalling. It can be
> tapped in with a 2x4 and mallet.
>
> On 4/1/2013 7:23 AM, n61cm wrote:
> >
> > Do you have to take the window out to do this job? Or do you just cut
> > out the seal and put in a new one without removing the window?
> >
> > Jim
> >
> > --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:diesel_mercedes%40yahoogroups.com>, diyernh <diyernh@> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > '84 300d. Just finished installing the windshield seal. Wasn't that
> > > bad of a job. The old seal cut out nicely. The new one went in easily.
> > >
> > > The worst thing is the mental scars that my daughter has. Everyone
> > > recommended KY personal lubricant for the cotton cord. It's water based
> > > and doesn't get sticky. She was a little grossed out.
> > >
> > > The 3/8" sealant caulking definitely needed to be pushed flat into the
> > > corner. If you don't push it in far enough, the windshield won't fit
> > nicely.
> > >
> > > I had tried sealing the old seal with flowable silicone. That was a
> > > waste of time, the seal was brittle and cracked. It still leaked.
> > >
> > > I hope this eliminates the swimming pool in the back floorboard. I have
> > > the back window seal ready for the next project.
> > >
> > >
> > > Carl
> > >
> >
> >
>
| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (7) |
