Euro Spec. , this Wagon is seriously FAST with the 'M' code IP .
300 miles , no AC used 22/1 MPG .
-Nate
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A good show Barton ! .
If you look at the wiper arms where the flat part enters the base , they're stamped "R" (rechts/right) and "L" (links/left) ~ I often find them carelessly reversed .
They're actually very easy to pop off but I bet you now know how .
Underneath the 13MM nut , it is _critical_ to use an 8MM wave typ washer ~ this is a common washer and is often left off by DPO's .
I assume the first picture was the Supervisor ? .
Last one in that row were the anxious people waiting to see how Sylvia came out in the end .
FWIW , taking the time to do a good , _thorough_ job it's ' crazy ' ~ it's what the well trained Journeyman Mechanic does on every job , every car no matter how beat up it is ~ also the hallmark of the competent DIY'er .
If you're getting 15 Hg vacuum , the vacuum pump is working O.K. , time to begin testing down stream for vacuum leaks ~ first thing , I'd disconnect & cap off the yellow pipes under the hood & re check , if the vacuum jumps up to 20" , the pump is fine .
Remember to look at the short rubber hoses connecting the brown plastic pipes to the back of the Ign. switch ~ these are usually soft & blubbery after 20 years & will leak away much vacuum .
Replacing all the rubber hose bits you can find , usually makes the whole system perk right up again ~ remember to only take off _ONE_ short hose bit at a time , cut the new section and replace it ,_then_
move on to the next hose bit .
Old hard hoses leak just as much as the soft & blubbery ones ~ if you can easily disconnect any rubber hose bit , _IT_IS_BAD_ .
Never , _EVER_ trim off the end of an old , leaky or cracked bit of hose ~ REPLACE EVERY TIME .
-Nate
Barton wrote :
>
> Done! Complete wiper transmission remove / rebuild / replace....wipers now operate silently and don't thump after 25K mi....found some corrosion under driver side window...led to this being a two weekend job, but done forever as far as I'm concerned...$75.00 and a sunny Memorial day afternoon vs. $750 mechanic repair - priceless...
>
> Pics are here:
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B2r80AnzSdzWek5mQ0tfQjNrTWc&usp=sharing
>
> so glad I had access to the MB repair manual for this operation.....what they don't tell you:
>
> 0). Disconnect the battery and make sure the wiper switch is on "off" :^)
>
> 1). Getting the wiper arms off is a *bitch* - be patient - get them off w/ out cracking the windshield is advised. Getting the plastic trim covers off is the hardest part....they will come off, use a hair dryer to soften them a bit if in a cold climate....(not too hot)
>
> 2). Label the arms before you take them off unless it's already obvious to you (i.e. not me)
>
> 3). The plastic cover over the wiper motor will come off, gently...plastic is brittle...
>
> 5). The plastic trim cover plate that hides the wiper motor and linkage and windshield seal are key to fitment....they will likely be fragile and brittle...take your time.
>
> 6). When re-connecting - unit test everything - the wiper motor w/ no transmission attached, then the the motor and the linkage connected. Then bolt on the lower (pax) wiper arm and test, then the driver arm and test. Adjust to suit....mine clunked, now I know why it failed...
>
> 7). I went kind of crazy and turned this into a three day project including rust-treating the corrosion, scraping out the old body putty, grinding and sealing, vacuuming 29 years of detritus from the whole cavity, 2 coats of primer (white and grey) and then liquid beeswax (corrosion inhibitor) + resurrecting all the rubber and plastic bits with a thorough bath and cavity cleaning...
>
> :^)
>
> I also did a quick-n-dirty vacuum system diagnosis, using my MightyVac vacuum pump (which seems to double as a vacuum gauge)....with the booster supply line disconnected at 600 RPM I measure 15-17 Hg of vac, with engine at 1200 RPM, it's more like 20-24Hg. I went through everything in the engine compartment, it's all well sealed/connected, but will keep looking for any leaks - otherwise it's the vacuum pump (yes/no?)
>
> cheers,
>
> -Barton
>
>
>
>
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Pretty much that's it ~
You don't need a boot spreader , there's yet another fun to remove with greasy hands clip in the center of the CV Joint , you need to remove it ($pecial Tool or mangled fingers) then the entire CV Joint slides off the axle shaft so you can properly clean then re - pack it before replacing the boot .
They used to make " cheater " boots that are split & have a seam , they work O.K. , you need to keep the seam 1,000 % clean & grease free so the special glue (included) will grip both sides of the seam .
These are installed with the axle on the car , all you need is a jack , _SAFETY_STANDS_ , CEMENT (NOT asphalt !) , special CV Joint grease , a whole lot of clean lint free rags and patience ~
_Lots_ of patience .
Google ' quick boot ' , or maybe ' quicky boot ' , some thing like that , they're *much* cheaper too .
-Nate
Nate R. wrote :
>
> Hello all: I'm new at this procedure,I don't own a boot spreader.From what I've read the job supposed to go like this. Raise vehicle andsupport suspesion by where the shocks are.Unbolt rear end from mount to remove cover,using a jack under rear end.Remove cover,and pull the c clip for affected axle..Unbolt axle from hub,pull axle out.
> To replace boot ? ?????
> thats as far as I know. Tennessee Nate
>
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This is the stuff you need in the Blutec system used in the popular Sprinter vans .
In 20years or so , you won't be able to find it anywhere and you'll be forced to scrap your van .
I am pleased to see it available aftermarket but would wonder the quality in spite of it being relatively simple .
The M.S.D.S. sheet is available there .
-Nate
Bill wrote:
>
>
>
> http://www.peakauto.com/products/bluedef/diesel-exhaust-fluid/diesel-exhaust
> -fluid/
>
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Pony up and buy the windshield grommet from The Mercedes Classic Center , use your VIN to ensure the correct part .
There are no clips , the trim fits into the grommet _BEFORE_ the installer installs the glass & grommet to the car .
As soon as he has the old glass out , rush in with your Windex & clean paper towels and clean the pinchwelds HOSPITAL CLEAN ~ you'll prolly find some accumulated dirt & dust in there , DO NOT allow him to just wipe it with an old rag ! .
You live in rain & snow country so paying for the proper _GERMAN_MADE_
glass grommets is the key to preventing leaks , or allowing proper sealing of leaks later on , with 3M silicone stuff .
_DO_NOT_ ever cheap out and use the Uro etc. aftermarket glass grommets as if you do , you'll soon have lakes in the foot wells and rust out soon after .
-Nate
Barton wrote :
>
> ok, not giving up yet...local salvage yard had a new wiper carriage - sent my eldest to retrieve it as am out of town - $70 pre-paid - waiting for me
> at home...have already got the old one out and it clearly failed - however now I'm having the windshield replaced as its the orig (still has MB factory sticker) and is pitted beyond safe driving in winter glare conditions - so the AutoLite glass guy shows up to swap and says the gasket has to be replaced and which isn't covered under my insurance claim. I'll deal with that later, but do want to proceed - seeking recommendation on sourcing a new gasket and trim clips. I know there's lots of places to order from, but where will I get the best quality gasket/seal and can I even get new trim clips?
>
> Will spend my Mem. day weekend diagnosing the vacuum pump, but she'll be back on the road this week - thanks to all for reminding me I don't want to part with this thing just yet :-)
>
> ---------------------------------------
> Sent by ifone, tpyos happen...
> ---------------------------------------
> Barton C. Fiske
> Littleton, MA - USA
> Cell: +1-978-502-4936
>
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Some one's Ex or a dishonest " Mule " .
-Nate
Brad wrote :
>
> I wonder who was in the trunk
>
>
>
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Impressive .
Notice two things :
The warning label on the blade and ,
They didn't try to use an old Mercedes W-123 or W-126 ~ I've watched the Car Crushers down at P-A-P struggle with old Mercedes' and they take a long time to crush one .
I head the medillin cartel has a dozen of these rigs on order....
-Nate
Brian wrote :
>
> Here is a portable PAP car compactor.
>
> http://www.wimp.com/garbagecompactor/
>
> Brian from la verne
>
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IIRC ;
You'll need a really long thin flat nosed punch to knock the retaining pins out , maybe just a 10 penny nail ? .
Go to the .99CENTS Store and buy the three pack of tooth brushes with metal bristles , use the steel (silver color) one to clean off the tracks inside the caliper where the pads go once the old pads are out ~ you'll get lots of brake and rust (red) dust , keep at it until everything is nice and shiny again .
After about _10_Years_ I stepped on my favorite one of these and snapped the head off last Friday , dammit .
-Nate
Rob wrote :
>
> Any updates on the Ceramic Brake pads?
>
> I'm on for this weekend.
> My brake pad wear light is on solid now, though last weekend it was just
> starting to flash when the brakes were applied.
>
> I have 2 sets of ceramic pads, wear sensors, new flexi brakelines, and a
> fresh bottle of brake fluid, so I'm ready to go.
>
> I also have a bottle of Diesel purge to run through it, and some new
> filters.
>
> If I get on a roll, I'll try to cover a bit more of the 30K service needs.
>
> Rob
> '85 300D
> Garden Grove, CA
> =
>
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Pretty much that's it ~
You don't need a boot spreader , there's yet another fun to remove with greasy hands clip in the center of the CV Joint , you need to remove it ($pecial Tool or mangled fingers) then the entire CV Joint slides off the axle shaft so you can properly clean then re - pack it before replacing the boot .
They used to make " cheater " boots that are split & have a seam , they work O.K. , you need to keep the seam 1,000 % clean & grease free so the special glue (included) will grip both sides of the seam .
These are installed with the axle on the car , all you need is a jack , _SAFETY_STANDS_ , CEMENT (NOT asphalt !) , special CV Joint grease , a whole lot of clean lint free rags and patience ~
_Lots_ of patience .
Google ' quick boot ' , or maybe ' quicky boot ' , some thing like that , they're *much* cheaper too .
-Nate
Nate R. wrote :
>
> Hello all: I'm new at this procedure,I don't own a boot spreader.From what I've read the job supposed to go like this. Raise vehicle andsupport suspesion by where the shocks are.Unbolt rear end from mount to remove cover,using a jack under rear end.Remove cover,and pull the c clip for affected axle..Unbolt axle from hub,pull axle out.
> To replace boot ? ?????
> thats as far as I know. Tennessee Nate
>
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?? I thought this would reduce the glare from the summer sun , non ? .
-Nate
Tom wrote :
>
> Brad,
>
> The windshield will work better if you do not chrome it.
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated 5/20/2013 3:47:19 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> brad_macaboy1234@... writes:
>
>
>
>
> Has anyone done this and is it expensive? I ask because have to fabricate
> an old style bumper either from steel (and chrome it) or from Stainless
> steel. Also, I will be fabricating a windshield, probably, similar to a
> t-bucket style; where does one get a windshiled fabricated, that is the glass cut
> for this? I'll fabricate a frame for this also.
>
> Thanks for any of tips,
>
> --- On Fri, 5/17/13, tom hanson <halfviking@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: tom hanson <halfviking@...>
> Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] I need Tom Hanson to email me nate rector
> at tccservice111@...
> To: "diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
> Date: Friday, May 17, 2013, 9:44 PM
>
>
>
>
>
> I don't have that. Parts illustrations only, nothing detailed. I'm out of
> town until next Thursday.
>
>
>
> Tom Hanson
> Mercedes Benz Classic Center USA
> MBUSA, LLC
> thomas.hanson@...
> 949 598-4842 direct
> 949 598-4870 fax
>
>
>
>
>
> From: oldsinner111 <tccservice111@...>
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, May 17, 2013 6:01 AM
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] I need Tom Hanson to email me nate rector at
> tccservice111@...
>
>
>
>
>
> Tom email me if you can email me a schematic for a 98 or 1999 w140 PSE
> pump,the wires in the 21 plug in. thank you
>
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Try Jaloplink or H.A.M.B.
-Nate
Brad wrote :
>
> Has anyone done this and is it expensive? I ask because have to fabricate an old style bumper either from steel (and chrome it) or from Stainless steel. Also, I will be fabricating a windshield, probably, similar to a t-bucket style; where does one get a windshiled fabricated, that is the glass cut for this? I'll fabricate a frame for this also.
>
> Thanks for any of tips,
>
>
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Maybe All Data ? .
I don't have accees to this but other Mechanics tell me it's goof info .
-Nate
Tom wrote :
>
> I don't have that. Parts illustrations only, nothing detailed. I'm out of town until next Thursday.
>
>
> Tom
> ________________________________
> From: Nate R. Wrote :
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] I need Tom Hanson to email me nate rector at tccservice111@...
>
> Â
> Tom email me if you can email me a schematic for a 98 or 1999 w140 PSE pump,the wires in the 21 plug in. thank you
>
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Thank you Carl .
-Nate
Carl wrote :
>
> This is an easy one. Check out the grass on the other side of the bridge!
>
> Go to a dealer and look at any car you would like. Price it out and see
> what the car payments would be. Crawl around in the car looking at all
> of the really fancy crap that will break in 12 months. Check the fuel
> mileage and calculate your fuel payments. Call the insurance company
> and ask what the coverage would cost.
>
> Add it all up:
>
> I'm betting you exceed $1600 the first year. In the second year, you
> will spend more than you will spend on the Mercedes for the next 5
> years. If you do any work yourself to drop the price your grass grows
> greener under you. Have fun mowing!
>
> Carl
>
>
>
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Not to worry Barton ;
Most vacuum pump failures are the check valves and they're pretty easy to replace on the car ~ you just need to be *very* diligent about _ALWAYS_ using two wrenches when loosening or tightening the various vacuum pipe connectors ~
I did Tom's W-126 , the phenolic valve disc had shattered and was bouncing 'round inside the pump proper , he was in a rush so I just installed a junkyard takeout check valve and the result was : every few days the debris would clog the valve and he'd have to use both feet to stop the car as the brake booster stopped from lack of vacuum .
The fix was dead simple : remove the primary vacuum pipe and check valve , start the engine and hold it revved up to about 2,000 RPM's (there's a governor in the Injection Pump so you cannot over rev. the engine) then _wait_ and after a few moments a couple - three tiny bits of junk flew out the open pump , stop engine and replace the check valve & vacuum pipe , all was well until the next valve failed , then I had to remove the whole vacuum pump and remove it's cover and replace the other check valve , since then it's been fine as far as I know ~ the main thing is CLEANING everything before you try to take it apart , this includes scraping the accumulated crud out of the 5 MM hex headed screws so you don't strip them out whilst taking the pump off the engine .
I didn't even need new pump to engine gaskets because Mercedes doesn't use cheapo gasket materiel .
The wiper linkages should be the same as gassers and yes, there are gassers in the Boston Metro junkyards or on some rust bucket in a back yard in Malden or on The North Shore , you just need to get busy with the Want Advertiser / Craigslist etc.and find it .
If you buy a used vacuum pump or wiper transmission off the Internet , be sure to ask for all the attaching hardware as you'll surely drop one or two fasteners or the 5MM socket head screws will be stripped etc.
These jobs are DIY do - able @ home , over some CLEAN PAVEMENT . maybe some thrift store bed sheets if you only have grass or dirt to work on ~ this will allow you to find the dropped screws , brackets etc.
Have you tet used your cheapo Harbor Freight vacuum pump to diagnose the vacuum problem ? . if it builds vacuum slowly or the vacuum signal is jerky , it's almost assuredly the pump's check valves .
I do not recommend using junkyard check valves unless you find some that are gold colored , this indicates they're replacements, being anodized when new .
I hope this helps .
-Nate
Barton wrote :
>
> Had Sylvia into the local shop for a run down on the broken wiper transmission/carriage and to track down a vacuum link - oh, and also a quick fix for the temp sensor lead which recently detached itself from it's wiring. The diagnosis (from the shop's point of view) is to replace the wiper transmission w/ a used part ($250.00), that I need to replace the vacuum pump ($375), and about 5 hours of shop labor (4 for the wiper assembly alone). Total parts, labor and tax is estimated at $1600.00 - which is *way* more than I want to put into this beast right now. (Maybe had it been trouble free for another year, then maybe...). So, I know it's oft quoted, most expensive car you'll never service, or the cheapest car you'll own if you DIY. I'm pretty sure I can do these things on my own, modulo parts and time.
>
> The point of this post? Probably most of all to moan and whine - then to shamelessly ask if anyone has a spare wiper transmission? I knew I should have taken it out of the donor car, but as I said before, ran out of the all too rare spare time to do it before the wrecking truck came to take it to the atom smasher.
>
> Have started looking online - one or two sources claim to have used wiper mechanisms, have not made any calls or inquiries thus far.
>
> I can't see (much) wisdom in installing a salvage vacuum pump, but think I've read/heard of some people rebuilding them. If the remove/replace procedure isn't too hard, I'm perfectly fine with fitting a new one, or attempting a rebuild if it can be done. It's the wiper assembly that has me most worried - in terms of time to locate one, cost of a used unit (new from MB is $650 list), and whether I'll get it right the first, second, or third time.
>
> Depending on which way this goes, I'm almost ready to put this thing up for sale - and you can be sure this will be the first place it's offered - there's too many new parts in it to scrap it - but it would have to go someone who wants the car and knows how to deal with it. Still need the odo fixed and the locks working...low priority compared to the above....
>
> Wish we had more PAP's with available inventory in the greater Boston area - might make this current predicament seem less vexing...
>
> So that's it for now - thanks in advance for comments/advice/heckling from afar and peanut gallery input.
>
>
> -Barton
>
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