Diesel RVs: 01/21/08

Re: [diesel_mercedes] 5mm Torque Converter allen head a bear.

you can get a whole set for under 20 bucks and they are choked down so that the part in the socket is bigger than 5mm

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <primobassoon@sbcglobal.net>
To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 5:21:16 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] 5mm Torque Converter allen head a bear.

I broke an allen wrench trying to get it off so I can drain the converter.
I'm inclined to grind off the round parts and stick what's left into a 5mm
socket and try again or should I buy a real 3/8" drive 5mm allen head of
good quality? Lawrence Rhodes

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
mailto:diesel_mercedes-digest@yahoogroups.com
mailto:diesel_mercedes-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
diesel_mercedes-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

RE: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Fumoto Valve

Our mechanic at work uses rubber gloves (looks like latex but isn't) that
you can get a Costco. I use 'em too and they help keep the slippery filter
from dumping all over you. Makes it a lot easier to get you hands clean
too.

Bob Bartleson
'97 Holiday Rambler 35 CDS, Cat 3126,
2K Accord, FMCA F319719

________________________________

From: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ucdavisgsm
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 2:54 PM
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Fumoto Valve

Jim- use a scratch awl & punch a hole in bottom of filter to drain oil
out before removal. It will take a while to get it all out because of
the small hole; if you don't want to wait, drain enough so you know
oil level is out of the filter mount & top of filter, then plug the
hole w/a sheet metal screw, then spin it off. There will likely still
be some mess, but not a gusher of oil. Mike

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Diesel-RVs%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Jim" <jrbarber@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks all for the Fumoto advice. I like the Ranger Design,
> www.rangerdesign.com/RangerDesign_OilChange.htm
> <www.rangerdesign.com/RangerDesign_OilChange.htm> that seems to be
> less vulnerable to damage.
>
> FWIW, the only time I ever had my oil changed by a "professional"
> instead of doing it myself, was the time I ended up at the Cat Parts
> counter, replacing a X-threaded drain plug.
>
> On a related subject... Any suggestions for removing hot, slippery oil
> filters without losing them? As soon as filter is loose enough for oil
> to start spilling out and burning my hands, it's too slick to hang onto.
> Thought I had a solution when I wrapped duct tape handles around the
> filters before loosening them. That worked until the filter dropped
> free, and still slid thru my hands splashing into my catch bucket. I
> was ready for filter #2. I knew what was going to happen and kept one
> hand cupped under the filter but it still got away and again splashed
> into the bucket. I have a great collection of oil-changing caps and
> t-shirts, each with a different splash design.
>
> Jim in CO
> '87 CC LTD (3208T)
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

--------------------------------------------
Off-topic posts will be removed.
Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
mailto:Diesel-RVs-digest@yahoogroups.com
mailto:Diesel-RVs-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Diesel-RVs] Re: Frozen water pipe!

Glad to hear you have water. If caught again in a deep freeze another
good thing to do at night before you retire is to turn the water pump
off, or shut the outside faucet off. Vent off the pressure from the
water lines, leave a hot and cold water interior faucet open. If
water freezes it has a place to expand, also water under pressure
freezes sooner that water at atmospheric pressure.

Spike

--------------------------------------------
Off-topic posts will be removed.
Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[diesel_mercedes] Re: CD's, Manuals, etc

Hey guys, all of the manuals I got from Mercedes Source SUCK BAD. Anyone who wants
copies can get them from me. I repeat they suck, discourage anyone from buying
manuals from them. It looks like some inbred moron was the official spell-checker, and
the manuals don't even help out. The short radiator hose I ordered (which is supposed to
be an official Mercedes Benz part) came and it is a cheap improvised straight hose with
two hose clamps. I do not feel good about buying parts from Mercedes Source.com
Anyone with a similar experience??

RIchyV

73 220D

- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Brian" <bstromsoe@...> wrote:
>
> My 2 cents - I ordered the MB CD's for $20. There is good news and bad
> news. First the bad news: the CD technology is 15 years old. Life
> would be better if they were DVD's with up to date technology. But
> they are only $20 so they are probably worth the investment. My first
> impression was that it was a waste of $$. However, here is some good
> news. The content information is still good although the pdf files
> were not too crisp, and the search routine was pretty ancient.
>
> I decided to copy the files to my hard drive (500 gig slave) and
> rename the pdf files so I could tell what I was in the file (e.g.,
> "35-450" pdf was renamed "Checkup of rear axle carrier"). Bottom line
> is that with a little tweaking of the CD content, I am OK with
> spending $20. With the files on my hard drive I can enlarge pictures
> and diagrams and print what I need when I need it. The pictures are
> crisper and everything is faster without waiting for the CD to spin
> and search. If the cost had been $100 I might have sent them back.
> Anyway, the CD technology is outdated - they should do a print manual
> bundled with up-to-date DVD's and charge $100 (maybe they do for newer
> models).
>
> brian
>

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[diesel_mercedes] Re: 5mm Torque Converter allen head a bear.

I broke an allen wrench( L shaped not tempered) with a pipe as a
helper. So now I have a broken allen wrench. Two pieces which could
(if you are cheap)be put in a 5mm scocket & used as a 3/8 inch allen
scocket driver. I suspect it broke where it was bent because that is
where it is weakest. I should have used the right tool in the first
place....

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[diesel_mercedes] Re: salt cracking , Alternative Fuel , BioDiesel etc.

Well Brian ;

To-day we saw near new German made dual fuel conversion parts , all
manner of heat exchangers , valves , switches , sensors , warning
lamps , 100 gallon custom made fuel tanks and the list goes on ~ I
got a Raycor water seperator for only $10.00 ~ even the Mercedes
shop guys who were moving through the yard harvesting Mercdes
parts , didn't touch any of that stuff . we left another Raycor
water seperator behind , I thought Tom would want it , he's prolly
waiting to see how I mount up mine ~ I _know_ it works as I drained
out some watery Diesel fuel....

-Nate
Brian wrote:
>
> I am inspired by all the biodiesel discussion. Not quite inspired
enough to do anything about converting yet, but inspired enough to
think about doing it. So, keep the chatter up cause one of these
days I may "convert" - matter of fact, any more fill ups at $3.50
per US gallon and my inspiration level really drops. Every time I
fill up I think about my Social Security increase that started in
January - cause I spend it and more at the pump.
>
> brian

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[diesel_mercedes] Re: cold

It's all relative Max ;

I've been riding my Moto off and on over the Holidays and to work ,
for some wierd reason it's always 42° when I'm riding to work @ 0-
Dark:30....

Besides , if I liked or wanted snow , cold or wet , I'da stayed my
behind in New England .

-Nate
Max wrote:
>
> You California boys are missing out on this Northern air. Nothing
like
> going out on the front porch when its -10 and taking a real deep
breath.
> Wont be starting the Mercedes for a while. Bet those Midwestern
guys are
> cold. Max
>

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: ot: free F-600 cab and chassis

to bad......
and, I have old junkers we could stack on the back..........

----- Original Message -----
From: "vwnate1" <vwnate1@yahoo.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 10:30 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: ot: free F-600 cab and chassis

Well phooey ~

He passed on it as he's moving .

Good thing I no longer live on an old farm else I'd drag it home along
with all manner of old junkers .

-Nate

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[diesel_mercedes] 5mm Torque Converter allen head a bear.

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: ultra low sulfur fuel in 2008 ford f-250

Just a curious question --- everyone is talking about a gasket failure and that leads to a failure of the lift pump -- I presume because the leak is not allowing enough pressure to be on the pump and that results in inadequate lubrication of the pump --- hence the failure of the pump. Time to educate me -- is it not possible to just go in and replace this gasket prior to the leadup to the failure of the pump? I would think that the gasket would be a far less expensive way to go -- I know that it may be hard to access the lift pump but, ----------------------- thoughts from everyone on this.

Appreciate any help from this knowledgeable group.

Dave Knight
2002 Ultimate Advantage Cummins 350 HP ISC
dknig288@comcast.net
Hook'em Horns 1969

-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Karen Barrett" <charli@strato.net>

> that is correct, Mike, there is no additive...
>
> most anyone who trys to skimp by adding stuff to fuel--not going to
> help.....
> probably (matter of time) going to have to replace lift pump eventually -
> because the gasket shrinks...plain and simple, nothing you can do about
> it --
> for those with new engines (particulate filter) - read owners manual, you
> can void the warranty on your motor (they can put on computer, see you've
> run wrong diesel and void your warranty)....
> that's expensive.
>
> JimB
> 2003 Mountainaire Diesel
> Polk City, FL
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ucdavisgsm"
> To:
> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 5:47 PM
> Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: ultra low sulfur fuel in 2008 ford f-250
>
>
> > ajon- No such additive. You'd need a reduce-ative to take the sulfur
> > out. However, see other posts on ULSD & Mexico here on yahoo for a
> > more complete picture. Mike
> >
> > --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "ajon1a" wrote:
> >>
> >> Does anyone know if there is an additive that will allow you to burn
> >> low sulfur fuel in a engine that is made for ulsf. I want to drive
> >> into Mexico where the fuel is still the 500 ppm.
> >>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------
> Off-topic posts will be removed.
> Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you
> have.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
> Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--------------------------------------------
Off-topic posts will be removed.
Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Fumoto Valve

Here is a little hint for the oil filter that works well on my Cummins 8.3

First I completely drain the oil pan and only then do I loosen and remove
the oil filter. There must be some type of syphon action because very little
oil spills out on cracking the filter loose and then the filter is never
more than half full and very easy to remove without spilling. I never get
oil on my arm and a clean rag is all I hold it in to spin it off after it's
loose.

This may not work on all engines but it sure does on mine.

Fred Hengel
94 Dynasty

-------Original Message-------

From: ucdavisgsm
Date: 01/21/08 17:54:12
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Fumoto Valve

Jim- use a scratch awl & punch a hole in bottom of filter to drain oil
out before removal. It will take a while to get it all out because of
the small hole; if you don't want to wait, drain enough so you know
oil level is out of the filter mount & top of filter, then plug the
hole w/a sheet metal screw, then spin it off. There will likely still
be some mess, but not a gusher of oil. Mike

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" <jrbarber@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks all for the Fumoto advice. I like the Ranger Design,
> www.rangerdesign.com/RangerDesign_OilChange.htm
> <www.rangerdesign.com/RangerDesign_OilChange.htm> that seems to be
> less vulnerable to damage.
>
> FWIW, the only time I ever had my oil changed by a "professional"
> instead of doing it myself, was the time I ended up at the Cat Parts
> counter, replacing a X-threaded drain plug.
>
> On a related subject... Any suggestions for removing hot, slippery oil
> filters without losing them? As soon as filter is loose enough for oil
> to start spilling out and burning my hands, it's too slick to hang onto.
> Thought I had a solution when I wrapped duct tape handles around the
> filters before loosening them. That worked until the filter dropped
> free, and still slid thru my hands splashing into my catch bucket. I
> was ready for filter #2. I knew what was going to happen and kept one
> hand cupped under the filter but it still got away and again splashed
> into the bucket. I have a great collection of oil-changing caps and
> t-shirts, each with a different splash design.
>
> Jim in CO
> '87 CC LTD (3208T)
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--------------------------------------------
Off-topic posts will be removed.
Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [diesel_mercedes] salt cracking

KJ,

You are right i thought you where taking issue with running biodiesel
in general, sorry. As you probably know, using salt in making
biodiesel is only one of the ways to make it, most people that make
biodiesel don't use salt.

I know that running on old discarded veggie oil is the best way to go,
but for some reason I am not interested in doing the conversion to my
car, and I don't wont the second fuel tank taking up my trunk.... so
biodiesel is the best bet for me. I changed the fuel lines and have
been running biodiesel for about a year now. I bought my 240D so I
could run biodiesel. So far it's worked out great.

All biodiesel that I know of is made out of waste oil, biodiesel is
just one more step in the process.

Steve

On Jan 21, 2008 5:02 PM, BStromsoe <bstromsoe@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I am inspired by all the biodiesel discussion. Not quite inspired enough to
> do anything about converting yet, but inspired enough to think about doing
> it. So, keep the chatter up cause one of these days I may "convert" - matter
> of fact, any more fill ups at $3.50 per US gallon and my inspiration level
> really drops. Every time I fill up I think about my Social Security increase
> that started in January - cause I spend it and more at the pump.
>
> brian
>
> Karl Järnhammer <jernhammer@ystad.nu> wrote:
>
>
> Steve Schaefer wrote:
>
> The point is
> that Biodiesel burns something like 95% cleaner then
> diesel and if that's not good enough you can get your fuel cost down
> to less then a $1.00 a Gallon. On top of that Biodiesel lubricates
> better then diesel so it's better for your car.
>
> with all the benefits it seems worth looking in to.
>
> Steve,
>
> Sorry - that's not the point.
>
> The point is:
>
> Will a salt agitation and a filtering process convert vegetable oil 'into'
> biodiesel. It seems unsurprisingly that it will not, in spite of some
> fictive nomenclature and some strange drawings of a weird molecular
> structure. It will though, no doubt, sell a few buckets and magic beads. The
> purveyors of the process never actually claim to be making biodiesel, they
> do however try to put it over as a viable compression engine alternative
> fuel. Of course even though the compression engine, now denominated the
> diesel engine, was originally designed to run on vegetable oil, most people
> have lost sight of that. So, basically what they are doing is messing
> unnecessarily with veggie oil diluting it with 'orrible fossil diesel and
> adding salt, then after thrashing the begeebies out of the mix and leaving
> it to settle they're filtering the good looking portion through their magic
> beans and - viola - you got filtered veggie oil with some dino diesel mixed
> in.
>
>
> I wont take issue with you on your percentages as true emission statistics
> are readily available these days. What is confusing though is the lack of
> awareness on the environmental cost involved in the actual manufacture of so
> called bio fuels. In The US it has become viable to convert corn into
> ethanol for fuel, even though the energy required to produce 1 unit of
> ethanol energy derived from corn is some 90% of it's potential capacity -
> depending on how it is produced and even combusted.
>
> If you are looking for the best (even the most wallet friendly) and most
> environmentally beneficial fuel right now then go for wvo (waste vegetable
> oil) it's done it's job and paid it's dues, use it again. It is Co2 neutral,
> more or less. No heavy metals. No spill risk - etc. Don't buy a new car
> (making one costs a lot of energy as does junking the old one).
>
> Biodiesel does lubricate a bit better than dino but it eats rubber and
> flushes your tank and lines - you should be aware of this.
>
> If you want to drive on desulfured (less lubrication) Dino add a little
> veggie like the truckers do.
>
> Or just re use old discarded veggie oil as your main and best environmental
> choice, I even get paid to haul it away sometimes =-O
>
> Best wishes
> KJ
>
>
>
>
> On Jan 21, 2008 8:35 AM, Karl Järnhammer <jernhammer@ystad.nu> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks for going to all this trouble, I have had problems with the concept
> from the beginning. If the whole idea is to lower the viscosity of veggie
> then why not just filter and heat? Of course diluting veggie with fossil
> diesel either before or after filtering will 'runny up' the veggie to some
> extent if it's not too cold where you live and if your veggie is not too
> contaminated - even so, I just can't see the point. Bio diesel it aint! /KJ
> Nate wrote: > O.K. guys and gals, as for me I won't buy into this new thing
> salt > cracking. For one after seperation the salt does not fall to the >
> bottom.Biodiesel part is still salty.I think that is why they ask you > to
> mix with 10% diesel,so you won't taste it.So I'm not taking chances >
> rusting my injector pump,or pistons up. > If you what to make biodiesel
> the old way is safer for the engine. > Glad I could help. TN Nate > > > > >
> Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> brian from la verne, ca
>
> ________________________________
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

--
Steve Schaefer

Those who give up liberty for the sake of security deserve neither
liberty nor security.
--- Ben Franklin

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Diesel-RVs] Re: Fumoto Valve

--------------------------------------------
Off-topic posts will be removed.
Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: ultra low sulfur fuel in 2008 ford f-250

that is correct, Mike, there is no additive...

most anyone who trys to skimp by adding stuff to fuel--not going to
help.....
probably (matter of time) going to have to replace lift pump eventually -
because the gasket shrinks...plain and simple, nothing you can do about
it --
for those with new engines (particulate filter) - read owners manual, you
can void the warranty on your motor (they can put on computer, see you've
run wrong diesel and void your warranty)....
that's expensive.

JimB
2003 Mountainaire Diesel
Polk City, FL

----- Original Message -----
From: "ucdavisgsm" <mike@fleming.cc>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 5:47 PM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: ultra low sulfur fuel in 2008 ford f-250

> ajon- No such additive. You'd need a reduce-ative to take the sulfur
> out. However, see other posts on ULSD & Mexico here on yahoo for a
> more complete picture. Mike
>
> --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "ajon1a" <ajon1@...> wrote:
>>
>> Does anyone know if there is an additive that will allow you to burn
>> low sulfur fuel in a engine that is made for ulsf. I want to drive
>> into Mexico where the fuel is still the 500 ppm.
>>

--------------------------------------------
Off-topic posts will be removed.
Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Diesel-RVs] Re: ultra low sulfur fuel in 2008 ford f-250

ajon- No such additive. You'd need a reduce-ative to take the sulfur
out. However, see other posts on ULSD & Mexico here on yahoo for a
more complete picture. Mike

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "ajon1a" <ajon1@...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know if there is an additive that will allow you to burn
> low sulfur fuel in a engine that is made for ulsf. I want to drive
> into Mexico where the fuel is still the 500 ppm.
>

--------------------------------------------
Off-topic posts will be removed.
Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [Diesel-RVs] ultra low sulfur fuel in 2008 ford f-250

lol

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck & Mary Boros" <elmerfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 3:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] ultra low sulfur fuel in 2008 ford f-250

> Thanks Jim,
> Your are my today's source for my ole learning something new every day.
> Chuck B
>
> JIM FLUCKEY <jflu653@cox.net> wrote:
> The Federal Gov. mandated a standard plug and location to access
> the onboard
> computer for emissions testing. They also standardized the "P" codes as
> relating to emissions, vapor recovery and etc. The other info in the
> computer may be brand specific and not available unless you have a
> dedicated
> terminal and software for the desired model. This info is read from the
> same
> plug or at multiple can bus points in the data stream. Here in AZ older
> OBD
> cars and non-computer cars are checked on a dyno with a tailpipe probe.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chuck & Mary Boros" <elmerfletcher@yahoo.com>
> To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 9:56 AM
> Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] ultra low sulfur fuel in 2008 ford f-250
>
>> Jim,
>> Interesting. In Tennessee, they still use the exhaust probe for testing.
>> It would seem to me that unless all manufacturers install a standard
>> computer check point that would be the same for all vehicles located in
>> about the same place, it would be difficult for the tester to find the
>> jack and its location. I might also say I am shooting from the hip.
>> Chuck B
>>
>>>
>>> Chuck & Mary Boros
>>> 04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
>>> Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat
>>>
>>> ---------------------------------
>>> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try
>>> it
>>> now.
>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --------------------------------------------
>>> Off-topic posts will be removed.
>>> Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV
>>> model
>>> you have.
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
>>> Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>>>
>>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Chuck & Mary Boros
>> 04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
>> Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat
>>
>> ---------------------------------
>> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it
>> now.
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>> --------------------------------------------
>> Off-topic posts will be removed.
>> Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model
>> you have.
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
>> Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Chuck & Mary Boros
> 04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
> Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat
>
> ---------------------------------
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------
> Off-topic posts will be removed.
> Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model
> you have.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
> Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

--------------------------------------------
Off-topic posts will be removed.
Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [Diesel-RVs] ultra low sulfur fuel in 2008 ford f-250

Thanks Jim,
Your are my today's source for my ole learning something new every day. Chuck B

JIM FLUCKEY <jflu653@cox.net> wrote:
The Federal Gov. mandated a standard plug and location to access the onboard
computer for emissions testing. They also standardized the "P" codes as
relating to emissions, vapor recovery and etc. The other info in the
computer may be brand specific and not available unless you have a dedicated
terminal and software for the desired model. This info is read from the same
plug or at multiple can bus points in the data stream. Here in AZ older OBD
cars and non-computer cars are checked on a dyno with a tailpipe probe.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck & Mary Boros" <elmerfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 9:56 AM
Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] ultra low sulfur fuel in 2008 ford f-250

> Jim,
> Interesting. In Tennessee, they still use the exhaust probe for testing.
> It would seem to me that unless all manufacturers install a standard
> computer check point that would be the same for all vehicles located in
> about the same place, it would be difficult for the tester to find the
> jack and its location. I might also say I am shooting from the hip.
> Chuck B
>
>>
>> Chuck & Mary Boros
>> 04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
>> Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat
>>
>> ---------------------------------
>> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it
>> now.
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>> --------------------------------------------
>> Off-topic posts will be removed.
>> Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model
>> you have.
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
>> Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Chuck & Mary Boros
> 04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
> Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it
> now.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------
> Off-topic posts will be removed.
> Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model
> you have.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
> Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--------------------------------------------
Off-topic posts will be removed.
Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Diesel-RVs] Re: ULSD in Baja & in General

Kev- Latest rumor from "Baja Cactus" (i.e. the owner of the El
Rosario PEMEX station; you can find his posts on the forum at
www.BajaNomad.com) is that Baja norte is getting ULSD deliveries from
Pemex, but not Baja Sur (south of the 28th Parallel). Don't know if
that is true; that's what BC reported in a letter to the editor of the
www.vagabundos.com monthly newsletter.

We entered Baja w/our new 08 coach about 10/12/07, and topped off
tanks in Guerrero Negro just above 28th parallel next day. Stayed in
Mulege for a month. Heading back we fueled in San Quintin w/enough
fuel to get us to Tecate & back to ULSD. Filled w/95 gallons near San
Diego.

During the return trip I noticed a soot plume on the coach paint
behind the tailpipe. 200 miles after filling on ULSD, the High
Exhaust Temp Light came on for about 20 minutes, then off. The
engine's computer sensed soot build up in the Particulate Filter of
the 07+ emissions system that is exclusively on the new engines
(pre-07 engines, and therefore virtually all 07 and before coaches
don't have this system and therefore don't have the ULSD requirement),
and ran a regeneration cycle on the PF (runs exhaust temp in the PF up
to 1100 degrees to gasify the soot particles & clean the filter).
After the regen, the soot plume didn't get any darker in the next 350
miles.

Before we bought the 08 coach I consulted w/the Cummins tech reps at
Cummins Northwest in Yakima, WA and at the Redmond FMCA rally. I was
told that a few loads of LSD wouldn't have a noticable effect, tho a
somewhat steady diet of LSD might reduce the lifespan of the PF
significantly (they couldn't quote a part cost but estimated about
$5k). Whether forced regeneration of the PF would help was not
assured but I got speculation it might; your Cummins shop (and I
presume Cat as well) can run a "manual regen" on the PF using their
diagnostic computer setup liked to your engine's computer to clean out
the PF while the rig is parked. I bought the software, pigtail wire,
etc., and was intending on running the regen myself when we got home,
but the engine's onboard sensors/computer beat me to it. There's
$1,200 shot in the butt.

I don't think you will have any problems in Baja with the 2.3 or so
fuel loads you will need to add there for a full peninsula trek to
Cabo & back. You may see the High Exhaust Temp light come on while
driving. Cummins advice if you do: "enjoy the next 20-40 minutes of
driving while the computer cleans out your PF automatically; don't
stop unless you have to as the computer will abort the regen & restart
it later when steady driving is sensed. If the light doesn't go off
after 45 minutes or so, have the engine serviced; there will be code
data & historical data stored by the ECU for the tech to retrieve."
IIWM and there was an idiot light issue, I'd run the Baja fuel down as
low as comfortable (my fuel light comes on w/about 20 gallons still in
the tank, YMMV) and fill up full w/ULSD before the service.

If you have a Cat, you might want to check w/the regional Cat center
to assure their stuff works the same, or what you would need to know
that is different.
Hope this helps, Mike

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "kevinkercher" <kevinkercher@...>
wrote:
> Does anyong know if ULSD is available in Mexico heading to Cabo San
> Lucas? I understand El Rosaria has ULSD but that's 600 miles from
> Cabo. I can only go 900 miles on a tank. That's not enough for the
> return trip. Any ideas?
> Kevin

--------------------------------------------
Off-topic posts will be removed.
Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [Diesel-RVs] ultra low sulfur fuel in 2008 ford f-250

The Federal Gov. mandated a standard plug and location to access the onboard
computer for emissions testing. They also standardized the "P" codes as
relating to emissions, vapor recovery and etc. The other info in the
computer may be brand specific and not available unless you have a dedicated
terminal and software for the desired model. This info is read from the same
plug or at multiple can bus points in the data stream. Here in AZ older OBD
cars and non-computer cars are checked on a dyno with a tailpipe probe.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck & Mary Boros" <elmerfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 9:56 AM
Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] ultra low sulfur fuel in 2008 ford f-250

--------------------------------------------
Off-topic posts will be removed.
Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[diesel_mercedes] rebuilding of heating controller

i recently had my heater controller rebuilt by programa. they did a
great job-looks like new. several of the little light sockets were
melted and they all are new. turn around was quick. cost $175
including shipping.

if your heater is finicky, suggest you give them a try.

www.programainc.com

there are a bunch of vacuum cylinders that are hard to get to and if
one of them is leaking, all the vacuum is lost when that cylinder is
activated. also, there are little hidden surprises in the hoses. on
some of the lines there is a little cintered metal filter, probably for
dampenning. over time the become plugged and block the line. you can
tell where they are- there is a little plastic clip on the outside of
the hose.

pat

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [diesel_mercedes] salt cracking

I am inspired by all the biodiesel discussion. Not quite inspired enough to do anything about converting yet, but inspired enough to think about doing it. So, keep the chatter up cause one of these days I may "convert" - matter of fact, any more fill ups at $3.50 per US gallon and my inspiration level really drops. Every time I fill up I think about my Social Security increase that started in January - cause I spend it and more at the pump.

brian

Karl Järnhammer <jernhammer@ystad.nu> wrote:

Steve Schaefer wrote:

The point is  that Biodiesel burns something like 95% cleaner then
diesel and if that's not good enough you can get your fuel cost down
to  less then a $1.00 a Gallon. On top of that Biodiesel lubricates
better then diesel so it's better for your car.

with all the benefits it seems worth looking in to.
Steve,

Sorry - that's not the point.

The point is:

Will a salt agitation and a filtering process convert vegetable oil 'into' biodiesel. It seems unsurprisingly that it will not, in spite of some fictive nomenclature and some strange drawings of a weird molecular structure. It will though, no doubt, sell a few buckets and magic beads. The purveyors of the process never actually claim to be making biodiesel, they do however try to put it over as a viable compression engine alternative fuel. Of course even though the compression engine, now denominated the diesel engine, was originally designed to run on vegetable oil, most people have lost sight of that. So, basically what they are doing is messing unnecessarily with veggie oil diluting it with 'orrible fossil diesel and adding salt, then after thrashing the begeebies out of the mix and leaving it to settle they're filtering the good looking portion through their magic beans and - viola - you got filtered veggie oil with some dino diesel mixed in.

I wont take issue with you on your percentages as true emission statistics are readily available these days. What is confusing though is the lack of awareness on the environmental cost involved in the actual manufacture of so called bio fuels. In The US it has become viable to convert corn into ethanol for fuel, even though the energy required to produce 1 unit of ethanol energy derived from corn is some 90% of it's potential capacity - depending on how it is produced and even combusted.

If you are looking for the best (even the most wallet friendly) and most environmentally beneficial fuel right now then go for wvo (waste vegetable oil) it's done it's job and paid it's dues, use it again. It is Co2 neutral, more or less. No heavy metals. No spill risk - etc. Don't buy a new car (making one costs a lot of energy as does junking the old one).

Biodiesel does lubricate a bit better than dino but it eats rubber and flushes your tank and lines - you should be aware of this.

If you want to drive on desulfured (less lubrication) Dino add a little veggie like the truckers do.

Or just re use old discarded veggie oil as your main and best environmental choice, I even get paid to haul it away sometimes =-O

Best wishes
KJ
   On Jan 21, 2008 8:35 AM, Karl Järnhammer <jernhammer@ystad.nu> wrote:
  
    Thanks for going to all this trouble, I have had problems with the  concept from the beginning. If the whole idea is to lower the viscosity  of veggie then why not just filter and heat? Of course diluting veggie  with fossil diesel either before or after filtering will 'runny up' the  veggie to some extent if it's not too cold where you live and if your  veggie is not too contaminated - even so, I just can't see the point.   Bio diesel it aint!   /KJ   Nate wrote:  > O.K. guys and gals, as for me I won't buy into this new thing salt  > cracking. For one after seperation the salt does not fall to the  > bottom.Biodiesel part is still salty.I think that is why they ask you  > to mix with 10% diesel,so you won't taste it.So I'm not taking chances  > rusting my injector pump,or pistons up.  > If you what to make biodiesel  the old way is safer for the engine.  > Glad I could help. TN Nate  >  >  >  >  > Yahoo! Groups Links  >  >  >  >  >        
     

brian from la verne, ca

Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. __._,_.___

Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch to Fully Featured
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe

__,_._,___

[Diesel-RVs] Re: Low Sulfur Diesel put into Ultra Low Sulfur Vehicle

DD- Don't sweat it. We have a 2007 emissions Cummins, and ran over a
full tank of LSD through it. It makes a larger amount of soot, which
accumulates inside the "Particulate Filter," AKA cataclysmic
converter. When the package of pyrometers/pressure sensor(s) on the
PF indicates a need, the computer will run a "regeneration cycle" that
runs PF exhaust temp up to 1100 degrees for 20-30 minutes, which burns
the particulates (soot) out thereby regenerating your PF. After 100+
gallons of LSD thru ours, the regen cycle kicked on and ran for about
20 minutes, then shut off.

Here is a link w/info on how the regen is indicated on our rig (and
how it could be better documented):
http://irv2.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/9686094452/m/85010616341
Hope this helps. Mike

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "kanuksearch" <kanuksearch@...> wrote:
>
> Someone inadvertently topped off my tank with 4 gallons of Low Sulfur
> Diesel versus the Ultra Low Sulfur required in my 2007 vehicle. Total
> tank is 26 gallons so this would only be 15%.
>
> What could be the impact if any and do I neeed to do anything to
> minimize the impact of this onetime event besides don't let the vehicle
> out of my sight when it is being fueled.
>
> Would appreciate the Groups advice.
>
> D.D.
>

--------------------------------------------
Off-topic posts will be removed.
Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Diesel-RVs] Re: What does ULSD have to do with a leak in ISC engine fuel lift pump??

AL, Check Cummins Early Warning E05033 dated 3 Aug 2005. Titled: Lift
Pump Leakage Due to ULSD fuel. It covers ISB, ISC, ISL, and others. It
states, the nitrile gasket (between the pump and mount bracket) will
shrink and no longer seal... it also lists old and new P/N's. Talk to
Cummins for the latest info.

-Les Crawshaw

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "aw_florida" <al2florida@...> wrote:
>
> What does ULSD have to do with a gasket leaking on a fuel pump?? I
> have seen a lot of discussion about the lack of lubricity of ULSD, but
> I fail to see what that has to do with a gasket leaking. Maybe I am
> missing something here.
>
> This is the thread where I saw a discussion about the leaking fuel
> pump:

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/message/82540

> Message number 82540 discusses a leaking fuel pump. There is a
> reference to Cummins Bulletin 06T5-18 in this thread. The main part
> of the bulletin is about a new gasket.
>
> Al
> 2003 Phaeaton with ISC 330 engine.
>

--------------------------------------------
Off-topic posts will be removed.
Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [Diesel-RVs] What does ULSD have to do with a leak in ISC engine fuel lift pump??

Isn't the "B" engine related to the engine in Dodge P/U? That era engine is noted for loosing High Pressure pump due to low fuel pressure from the lift pump. Is it not?

Pete

-------------- Original message --------------
From: Chuck & Mary Boros <elmerfletcher@yahoo.com>
Al,
The additives in the ULSD is having some adverse effects on the gaskets and "O" rings in some of the older Cummins engines causing the gasket to leak. The make up of the gasket material coming in contact with the LSD and then the ULSD is the problem. I am a member of another yahoo group where a couple of members had a leaking pump gasket. One coach was on the late 90's, and another is in the early 2000's. One was a "B" engine, and the other was a "C" engine if I remember correctly. They ended up having to change out the entire pump because of damage to the pump before the leak was detected. Cummins said that the problem should show up in the earlier 90's engines. Since not enough of time has expired with the use and effect of ULSD on the Cummins engines, the jury is still out as to how many failures and to which engines are affected. Stay tuned. Chuck B

aw_florida <al2florida@gmail.com> wrote:
What does ULSD have to do with a gasket leaking on a fuel pump?? I
have seen a lot of discussion about the lack of lubricity of ULSD, but
I fail to see what that has to do with a gasket leaking. Maybe I am
missing something here.

This is the thread where I saw a discussion about the leaking fuel
pump: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/message/82540

Message number 82540 discusses a leaking fuel pump. There is a
reference to Cummins Bulletin 06T5-18 in this thread. The main part
of the bulletin is about a new gasket.

Al
2003 Phaeaton with ISC 330 engine.

Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--------------------------------------------
Off-topic posts will be removed.
Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [Diesel-RVs] What does ULSD have to do with a leak in ISC engine fuel lift pump??

Al there appears to be two issues with ULSD. Lubricity is one and the
'reduction of aromatics' is the other. There are additives for additional
lubrication but nothing to increase the aromatic content back to pre-USLD
levels. Aromatics cause seals and gaskets to swell. This is a known factor
and engineers designed their pumps seals and other fuel component gaskets to
accomodate the degree of swelling that occurs. With the advent of ULSD and
the corresponding reduction in aromatics came some seal/gasket issues. In
certain cases the seals shrunk due to decreased aromatics and allowed
leaking to occur. This is how it was explained to me so if I have this wrong
I'm sure someone will enlighten me.

On 21/01/2008, aw_florida <al2florida@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> What does ULSD have to do with a gasket leaking on a fuel pump?? I
> have seen a lot of discussion about the lack of lubricity of ULSD, but
> I fail to see what that has to do with a gasket leaking. Maybe I am
> missing something here.
>
> This is the thread where I saw a discussion about the leaking fuel
> pump: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/message/82540
> Message number 82540 discusses a leaking fuel pump. There is a
> reference to Cummins Bulletin 06T5-18 in this thread. The main part
> of the bulletin is about a new gasket.
>
> Al
> 2003 Phaeaton with ISC 330 engine.
>
>
>

--
Rob, Sue & Merlin Robinson
94 WLWB

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--------------------------------------------
Off-topic posts will be removed.
Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [Diesel-RVs] What does ULSD have to do with a leak in ISC engine fuel lift pump??

Al,
The additives in the ULSD is having some adverse effects on the gaskets and "O" rings in some of the older Cummins engines causing the gasket to leak. The make up of the gasket material coming in contact with the LSD and then the ULSD is the problem. I am a member of another yahoo group where a couple of members had a leaking pump gasket. One coach was on the late 90's, and another is in the early 2000's. One was a "B" engine, and the other was a "C" engine if I remember correctly. They ended up having to change out the entire pump because of damage to the pump before the leak was detected. Cummins said that the problem should show up in the earlier 90's engines. Since not enough of time has expired with the use and effect of ULSD on the Cummins engines, the jury is still out as to how many failures and to which engines are affected. Stay tuned. Chuck B

This is the thread where I saw a discussion about the leaking fuel
pump: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/message/82540

Message number 82540 discusses a leaking fuel pump. There is a
reference to Cummins Bulletin 06T5-18 in this thread. The main part
of the bulletin is about a new gasket.

Al
2003 Phaeaton with ISC 330 engine.

Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--------------------------------------------
Off-topic posts will be removed.
Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Diesel-RVs] What does ULSD have to do with a leak in ISC engine fuel lift pump??

What does ULSD have to do with a gasket leaking on a fuel pump?? I
have seen a lot of discussion about the lack of lubricity of ULSD, but
I fail to see what that has to do with a gasket leaking. Maybe I am
missing something here.

This is the thread where I saw a discussion about the leaking fuel
pump:

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/message/82540

Message number 82540 discusses a leaking fuel pump. There is a
reference to Cummins Bulletin 06T5-18 in this thread. The main part
of the bulletin is about a new gasket.

Al
2003 Phaeaton with ISC 330 engine.

--------------------------------------------
Off-topic posts will be removed.
Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Pulling a trailer with 240D

I've been wondering this myself. I have an 240TD Euro can you please send me pics of the factory hitches.

Thanks, Joe

Jeff Fennema <jeffcosmo@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Can a 240D pull a small trailer? If the answer is yes, how do you
> hookup the hitch?
>
If the existence of a factory hitch attached to a 240 is any indication, the
240 can, indeed, tow a small trailer.
However, said hitch cannot be supplied by a US Merc dealer (it won't fit a
US spec car).
But, if you look in the "Photos" section, you will see a photo gallery of a
build of a trailer hitch for a US spec W123.
It's titled "Trailer Hitch, W123". Catchy, eh?!
If you need more help, let me know. I can also supply photos of a factory
hitch on a Euro-spec Coupe.
Jeff

________________________________________________________________________
Check out our web site at www.ourpersonalsafetyproducts.com over 260 personal and home safety and security products, and be sure to tell your friends and acquaintances.

Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. __._,_.___

__,_._,___

[diesel_mercedes] salty fuel

I just checked my canning jars,that we used to experiment with.
The lids and rings were rusted by the salt,soybean oil,and kero.
So I guess if air can get to it,it will rust.

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [diesel_mercedes] cold

I guess you would need a heated garage.

Max <max@ispvip.biz> wrote:

You California boys are missing out on this Northern air. Nothing like
going out on the front porch when its -10 and taking a real deep breath.
Wont be starting the Mercedes for a while. Bet those Midwestern guys are
cold. Max

Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. __._,_.___

__,_._,___

[diesel_mercedes] cold

You California boys are missing out on this Northern air. Nothing like
going out on the front porch when its -10 and taking a real deep breath.
Wont be starting the Mercedes for a while. Bet those Midwestern guys are
cold. Max

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [Diesel-RVs] ultra low sulfur fuel in 2008 ford f-250

Jim,
Interesting. In Tennessee, they still use the exhaust probe for testing. It would seem to me that unless all manufacturers install a standard computer check point that would be the same for all vehicles located in about the same place, it would be difficult for the tester to find the jack and its location. I might also say I am shooting from the hip. Chuck B

JIM FLUCKEY <jflu653@cox.net> wrote:
I'm not sure the OBD2 would set a code if everything was intact and just
bypassing the normal exhaust stream. In AZ we don't check the tailpipe
emissions on any OBD2 vehicle, we just check the computer for emission codes
and readiness of the systems.
Jim & Sally Fluckey
2001 40' Allegro Bus
Jeep Liberty 4X4 toad
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck & Mary Boros" <elmerfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] ultra low sulfur fuel in 2008 ford f-250

> Jim,
> The only problem one might have using LSD in a ULSD engine is that if one
> has to pass a smog or emissions test to obtain tags or plates yearly,
> Damage to the particle filter will show up as would by passing the filter.
> Chuck B
>
> JIM FLUCKEY <jflu653@cox.net> wrote:
> After some cursory research I don't believe that there is any way
> use an
> additive in your light truck motor. That said I also believe that LSD fuel
> should not hurt your engine. The damage will be to the "cat" and the
> particulate filter. I have heard horror stories of the cost to replace the
> "cat" but I also know that the "cat" is supposed to light itself off every
> so many cycles and burn out the particulates including any excessive
> sulfur.
> I guess if you had to burn LSD on a regular basis I might figure out how
> to
> divert my exhaust from going thru the "cat and trap". LSD in of itself in
> a
> USLD engine will not hurt any internals, just the opposite, the extra
> lubricity of the LSD should be beneficial to the engines Injectors and
> pumps. Our older MH engines have just the opposite problem, what additive
> ,if any, should we add to keep our injectors and pumps lubed now we cant
> rely on the sulfur anymore.
> Jim & Sally Fluckey
> 2001 40' Allegro Bus
> Jeep Liberty 4X4 toad
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ajon1a" <ajon1@msn.com>
> To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 4:10 PM
> Subject: [Diesel-RVs] ultra low sulfur fuel in 2008 ford f-250
>
>> Does anyone know if there is an additive that will allow you to burn
>> low sulfur fuel in a engine that is made for ulsf. I want to drive
>> into Mexico where the fuel is still the 500 ppm.
>>
>>
>>
>> --------------------------------------------
>> Off-topic posts will be removed.
>> Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model
>> you have.
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
>> Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Chuck & Mary Boros
> 04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
> Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it
> now.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------
> Off-topic posts will be removed.
> Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model
> you have.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
> Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--------------------------------------------
Off-topic posts will be removed.
Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [diesel_mercedes] salt cracking and rust

Yes but after shut down when oil leave just salt,no thanks.For me no,I won't buy into this new process.

Bogy Wan Kenobi <polespearbogy@yahoo.com> wrote:

FYI;

Salt does not cause rust. Rust requires oxygen to form. There is no oxygen in
the salt molecule. Or any salt molecule. The salt may grind your IP to a
useless mass of iron. But it will not rust it.

Bogy.

--- Randy Dupree <randy@randydupree.com> wrote:

> could you soak a clean piece of steel in the salt cracked oil to see if it
> rusts?
> Randy Dupree

__________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ

Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. __._,_.___

__,_._,___

Re: [diesel_mercedes] salt cracking

Steve Schaefer wrote:  The point is that Biodiesel burns something like 95% cleaner then diesel and if that's not good enough you can get your fuel cost down to  less then a $1.00 a Gallon. On top of that Biodiesel lubricates better then diesel so it's better for your car.  with all the benefits it seems worth looking in to.

Steve,

Sorry - that's not the point.

The point is:

Will a salt agitation and a filtering process convert vegetable oil 'into' biodiesel. It seems unsurprisingly that it will not, in spite of some fictive nomenclature and some strange drawings of a weird molecular structure. It will though, no doubt, sell a few buckets and magic beads. The purveyors of the process never actually claim to be making biodiesel, they do however try to put it over as a viable compression engine alternative fuel. Of course even though the compression engine, now denominated the diesel engine, was originally designed to run on vegetable oil, most people have lost sight of that. So, basically what they are doing is messing unnecessarily with veggie oil diluting it with 'orrible fossil diesel and adding salt, then after thrashing the begeebies out of the mix and leaving it to settle they're filtering the good looking portion through their magic beans and - viola - you got filtered veggie oil with some dino diesel mixed in.

I wont take issue with you on your percentages as true emission statistics are readily available these days. What is confusing though is the lack of awareness on the environmental cost involved in the actual manufacture of so called bio fuels. In The US it has become viable to convert corn into ethanol for fuel, even though the energy required to produce 1 unit of ethanol energy derived from corn is some 90% of it's potential capacity - depending on how it is produced and even combusted.

If you are looking for the best (even the most wallet friendly) and most environmentally beneficial fuel right now then go for wvo (waste vegetable oil) it's done it's job and paid it's dues, use it again. It is Co2 neutral, more or less. No heavy metals. No spill risk - etc. Don't buy a new car (making one costs a lot of energy as does junking the old one).

Biodiesel does lubricate a bit better than dino but it eats rubber and flushes your tank and lines - you should be aware of this.

If you want to drive on desulfured (less lubrication) Dino add a little veggie like the truckers do.

Or just re use old discarded veggie oil as your main and best environmental choice, I even get paid to haul it away sometimes =-O

Best wishes
KJ

    On Jan 21, 2008 8:35 AM, Karl Järnhammer <jernhammer@ystad.nu> wrote:

     Thanks for going to all this trouble, I have had problems with the  concept from the beginning. If the whole idea is to lower the viscosity  of veggie then why not just filter and heat? Of course diluting veggie  with fossil diesel either before or after filtering will 'runny up' the  veggie to some extent if it's not too cold where you live and if your  veggie is not too contaminated - even so, I just can't see the point.   Bio diesel it aint!   /KJ   Nate wrote:  > O.K. guys and gals, as for me I won't buy into this new thing salt  > cracking. For one after seperation the salt does not fall to the  > bottom.Biodiesel part is still salty.I think that is why they ask you  > to mix with 10% diesel,so you won't taste it.So I'm not taking chances  > rusting my injector pump,or pistons up.  > If you what to make biodiesel the old way is safer for the engine.  > Glad I could help. TN Nate  >  >  >  >  > Yahoo! Groups Links  >  >  >  >  >

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

RV Archive