I can't , this was just a fluke I think .
We had a bit of a cooling trend , Marine Layer of clouds & early morning fog rolled in so a very nice day , I goofed off instead of working to - day but got to feeling guilty so I de - greased the '82 240D's engine to ready it for to - morrow when I'll replace the intake
manifold .
Of course , the Wx. report says it'll zoom back up to at least 100° F to - morrow and hotter Tuesday and Wednesday....
In '82 > 240D's Mercedes _finally_ got a handle on the rockerbox oil vapor separator , it has _THREE_ oil pipes , one is just like the turbo oil return pipe on an OM617 , right down to the two special O-Rings that *MUST* be Diesel resistant else they'll atrophy and leak oil profusely ~ on this 300,000 + mile car I'm sure they're both original and have been leaking of late so I'll replace them when I do the manifold job .
I hate working on nasty , oily , greasy old cars , sadly it's part and parcel of the JOB .
-Nate
Max wrote :
>
> Wow, didn't know you could type. Max
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > O-kay then , let's give this a try .
> >
> > I removed the interior handles and mirror knob , then I gently and carefully pried the door panel away from the door proper , begining along the bottom and working my fingers arond to the ends and up wards . once I had all the clips popped loose I lifted the _rear_ edge of it up until the top edge began to release from it's vertical clips , then you twist the entire panel counter - clockise a tiny bit as you raise it 1/2" or so , this releases the front plastic clip holding the map pocket into place . (often broken , now you know why)
> >
> > Set the panel aside and raise up the plastic vapor barrier sheet from the rear lower edge only *just* enough to access the latch screws , pop out the black plastic oval cover in the door skin & unscrew two # 2 philips screws holding the rear of the exterior handle , peer in through the access hole stamped in the inside of the door and locate the # 2 phillips screw holding the front of the handle in , remove it and push the handle forward , it'll pop loose , set it aside .
> >
> > There are two 3MM locking rods connecting the inside handle and vacuum lock to the latch , there's a tiny sheet matal clip you press upwards on to release it , it'll prolly pop off and fall either inside the door or to the ground where you thoughtfully laid out a light colored old towel or sheet to prevent various tiny screws & clips from bouncing , never to be seen again .
> >
> > Once the clips are removed , the rod can be pushed out , one of the rods hooks in and con't be removed until the latch has been unscrewed and is free to wobble about .
> >
> > There are _four_ phillips screws holding the latch to the door , remove and set aside then work your left hand in through the door skin and your right hand in through the hole where the latch was , wirggle it thisa-way and that , as long as the window is fully up you can push it in a little bit then drop it down and inch or so , then you'll have to wriggle it as youu twist it behind the welded in rear window run channel ~ it's tricky , sort of like those Chinese Puzzles that we had when I were a lad but when you get it * Just So * , it'll easily slip out and plummet to the bottom of the door where you can remove it .
> >
> > Match your new latch to the old one and ascetain that the door handle's long lock rod has a bow tie shaped thing on the very end of it , I found mine in the bottom of the door along with the broken platic tip off the funnel shaped thing that connects the outer handle to the latch proper ~ this is all fairly delicate so be gentle as you test fit the lock shaft into the funnel , and twist it , the funnel has a tip on it that *must* move a flat stamped thing with a slot in it , for the key to lock or unlock the passenger side door .
> >
> > BOTH parts (handle shaft's metal bowtie end $ plastic funnels's tip) were broken on this car , it seems Mercedes wants you to use the key when you install the exterior handle , you must needs twist the key a bit as you gently guide the handle into place and use your eyes , flashlight and third hand to ensure that long shaft goes into the funnel shaped piece rather than dangle tantalizingly just below it .
> >
> > Once you think you have the handle properly installed , hold it in place whilst you insert one of the rear screws then test the key a few times to ensure the lock button goes up and down O.K. , then open the rear door for safety and close and open the front door several times , testing the key's ability to lock/un lock as well as the outer handle's ability to open the door as the handle has a tang that must needs go _behind_ the latch arm , as you're happliy lining up all the other parts.....
> >
> > It works ? good . now , loosen the rear handle screw and install the other two screws , then tighten the rear screws first , followed by the hidden forward inner screw , re attch the actuating rod and it's clip , you're nearly there now . clean up your hands and gently lower the plastic vapor barrier sheet , it is *very* important and often gone missing , you can easily cut one out of clear plasic to suit , re install the inner trim panel , remembering to hold the front edge in first so that flusherginner map pocket clip hooks on the door's cutaway , then drop it down whist alinging the upper edge to grab firmly .
> >
> > Press the lower edge's plastic clips into thier holes , usually a few snap off but no worries .
> >
> > Install the three arm rest screws loosely , then tighten the lower two firmly and finally the upper one that's always lose , I find using spare exterior door handle screws with the attached flat washers , holds this better so it won't come loose again my folks pulling it to close the door . you can use any old 6MM flat washer , DO NOT use a start nor split washer here .
> >
> > Re - install the other trim screws and you're good to go .
> >
> > This is really the short form here , it sounds hard but is mostly a mater of working slowly and deliberately , *gently* above all else .
> >
> > I had several different 2 Philips screw drivers and discovered one fit the screws *much* better than did my old Craftsman , loose fitting Phillips scrwdrivers tend to strip out the heads more easly .
> >
> > Sorry about the crappy photos , I have them saved in my ipod thing so if anyone in So. Cal. knws how to down load them better , let's do that .
> >
> > -Nate
> >
>
[diesel_mercedes] Re : What's Next '82 240D
[diesel_mercedes] Re: What a great site. O/T
Aw , shucks Tony........
=8-)
-Nate
Tony wrote :
>
> Have met two of the posters here Max and Nate, and have discovered that they are good guys. Have lots in common with some of the other posters and hope to meet them someday. Really enjoy the Mercedes info and help, and enjoy the bit of off topic chit chat, except when it goes political.
> A vote of thanks to all here.
> Tony
>
[diesel_mercedes] Re: Door Latch R & R W-123
I wasn't sure it'd be helpful , there is so much fiddling to do , not much grunt at all .
Maybe I'm gatting more patient as I age ? .
This morning I unlocked the driver's side door and was pleased to *see* all the doors *silently* unlock .
I was SO pleased in fact , before I started the car I locked them all again just to watch the knobbies move down ........
I'd hoped that Tom would be there to take (better) pix but door works is a job best done alone and un hurried .
Don't forget the towel ! *!BOING!* =8-) .
I left out the part where the shorter horizontal rod , that connects the latch to the vacuum chamber bell crank , broke (crumbled) it's plastic holder/bushing , this required me to run back to P-A-P where Brian's gold(ish) '83 W-123's doors were still intact and un touched , I ever so carefully took it apart and knocked the little white pin out of the center of the bell crank's pivot bushing , this way I didn't have to worry about the tiny plastic rod holder/bushing thing crumbling as I took the entire bell crank , it's a small but important part .
If you print out my Service Notes and drag them out to the car , they should make sense .
-Nate
Tony wrote :
>
> Nate, once again you star. Am planning on ripping my panel off next week to fix the window.
> The tip about how to use the sledge hammer and pry bar are invaluable <G>.
> Tony
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > O-kay then , let's give this a try .
> >
> > I removed the interior handles and mirror knob , then I gently and carefully pried the door panel away from the door proper , begining along the bottom and working my fingers arond to the ends and up wards . once I had all the clips popped loose I lifted the _rear_ edge of it up until the top edge began to release from it's vertical clips , then you twist the entire panel counter - clockise a tiny bit as you raise it 1/2" or so , this releases the front plastic clip holding the map pocket into place . (often broken , now you know why)
> >
> > Set the panel aside and raise up the plastic vapor barrier sheet from the rear lower edge only *just* enough to access the latch screws , pop out the black plastic oval cover in the door skin & unscrew two # 2 philips screws holding the rear of the exterior handle , peer in through the access hole stamped in the inside of the door and locate the # 2 phillips screw holding the front of the handle in , remove it and push the handle forward , it'll pop loose , set it aside .
> >
> > There are two 3MM locking rods connecting the inside handle and vacuum lock to the latch , there's a tiny sheet matal clip you press upwards on to release it , it'll prolly pop off and fall either inside the door or to the ground where you thoughtfully laid out a light colored old towel or sheet to prevent various tiny screws & clips from bouncing , never to be seen again .
> >
> > Once the clips are removed , the rod can be pushed out , one of the rods hooks in and con't be removed until the latch has been unscrewed and is free to wobble about .
> >
> > There are _four_ phillips screws holding the latch to the door , remove and set aside then work your left hand in through the door skin and your right hand in through the hole where the latch was , wirggle it thisa-way and that , as long as the window is fully up you can push it in a little bit then drop it down and inch or so , then you'll have to wriggle it as youu twist it behind the welded in rear window run channel ~ it's tricky , sort of like those Chinese Puzzles that we had when I were a lad but when you get it * Just So * , it'll easily slip out and plummet to the bottom of the door where you can remove it .
> >
> > Match your new latch to the old one and ascetain that the door handle's long lock rod has a bow tie shaped thing on the very end of it , I found mine in the bottom of the door along with the broken platic tip off the funnel shaped thing that connects the outer handle to the latch proper ~ this is all fairly delicate so be gentle as you test fit the lock shaft into the funnel , and twist it , the funnel has a tip on it that *must* move a flat stamped thing with a slot in it , for the key to lock or unlock the passenger side door .
> >
> > BOTH parts (handle shaft's metal bowtie end $ plastic funnels's tip) were broken on this car , it seems Mercedes wants you to use the key when you install the exterior handle , you must needs twist the key a bit as you gently guide the handle into place and use your eyes , flashlight and third hand to ensure that long shaft goes into the funnel shaped piece rather than dangle tantalizingly just below it .
> >
> > Once you think you have the handle properly installed , hold it in place whilst you insert one of the rear screws then test the key a few times to ensure the lock button goes up and down O.K. , then open the rear door for safety and close and open the front door several times , testing the key's ability to lock/un lock as well as the outer handle's ability to open the door as the handle has a tang that must needs go _behind_ the latch arm , as you're happliy lining up all the other parts.....
> >
> > It works ? good . now , loosen the rear handle screw and install the other two screws , then tighten the rear screws first , followed by the hidden forward inner screw , re attch the actuating rod and it's clip , you're nearly there now . clean up your hands and gently lower the plastic vapor barrier sheet , it is *very* important and often gone missing , you can easily cut one out of clear plasic to suit , re install the inner trim panel , remembering to hold the front edge in first so that flusherginner map pocket clip hooks on the door's cutaway , then drop it down whist alinging the upper edge to grab firmly .
> >
> > Press the lower edge's plastic clips into thier holes , usually a few snap off but no worries .
> >
> > Install the three arm rest screws loosely , then tighten the lower two firmly and finally the upper one that's always lose , I find using spare exterior door handle screws with the attached flat washers , holds this better so it won't come loose again my folks pulling it to close the door . you can use any old 6MM flat washer , DO NOT use a start nor split washer here .
> >
> > Re - install the other trim screws and you're good to go .
> >
> > This is really the short form here , it sounds hard but is mostly a mater of working slowly and deliberately , *gently* above all else .
> >
> > I had several different 2 Philips screw drivers and discovered one fit the screws *much* better than did my old Craftsman , loose fitting Phillips scrwdrivers tend to strip out the heads more easly .
> >
> > Sorry about the crappy photos , I have them saved in my ipod thing so if anyone in So. Cal. knws how to down load them better , let's do that .
> >
> > -Nate
> >
>
[diesel_mercedes] Re: Door Latch R & R W-123
Wow, didn't know you could type. Max
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
>
> O-kay then , let's give this a try .
>
> I removed the interior handles and mirror knob , then I gently and carefully pried the door panel away from the door proper , begining along the bottom and working my fingers arond to the ends and up wards . once I had all the clips popped loose I lifted the _rear_ edge of it up until the top edge began to release from it's vertical clips , then you twist the entire panel counter - clockise a tiny bit as you raise it 1/2" or so , this releases the front plastic clip holding the map pocket into place . (often broken , now you know why)
>
> Set the panel aside and raise up the plastic vapor barrier sheet from the rear lower edge only *just* enough to access the latch screws , pop out the black plastic oval cover in the door skin & unscrew two # 2 philips screws holding the rear of the exterior handle , peer in through the access hole stamped in the inside of the door and locate the # 2 phillips screw holding the front of the handle in , remove it and push the handle forward , it'll pop loose , set it aside .
>
> There are two 3MM locking rods connecting the inside handle and vacuum lock to the latch , there's a tiny sheet matal clip you press upwards on to release it , it'll prolly pop off and fall either inside the door or to the ground where you thoughtfully laid out a light colored old towel or sheet to prevent various tiny screws & clips from bouncing , never to be seen again .
>
> Once the clips are removed , the rod can be pushed out , one of the rods hooks in and con't be removed until the latch has been unscrewed and is free to wobble about .
>
> There are _four_ phillips screws holding the latch to the door , remove and set aside then work your left hand in through the door skin and your right hand in through the hole where the latch was , wirggle it thisa-way and that , as long as the window is fully up you can push it in a little bit then drop it down and inch or so , then you'll have to wriggle it as youu twist it behind the welded in rear window run channel ~ it's tricky , sort of like those Chinese Puzzles that we had when I were a lad but when you get it * Just So * , it'll easily slip out and plummet to the bottom of the door where you can remove it .
>
> Match your new latch to the old one and ascetain that the door handle's long lock rod has a bow tie shaped thing on the very end of it , I found mine in the bottom of the door along with the broken platic tip off the funnel shaped thing that connects the outer handle to the latch proper ~ this is all fairly delicate so be gentle as you test fit the lock shaft into the funnel , and twist it , the funnel has a tip on it that *must* move a flat stamped thing with a slot in it , for the key to lock or unlock the passenger side door .
>
> BOTH parts (handle shaft's metal bowtie end $ plastic funnels's tip) were broken on this car , it seems Mercedes wants you to use the key when you install the exterior handle , you must needs twist the key a bit as you gently guide the handle into place and use your eyes , flashlight and third hand to ensure that long shaft goes into the funnel shaped piece rather than dangle tantalizingly just below it .
>
> Once you think you have the handle properly installed , hold it in place whilst you insert one of the rear screws then test the key a few times to ensure the lock button goes up and down O.K. , then open the rear door for safety and close and open the front door several times , testing the key's ability to lock/un lock as well as the outer handle's ability to open the door as the handle has a tang that must needs go _behind_ the latch arm , as you're happliy lining up all the other parts.....
>
> It works ? good . now , loosen the rear handle screw and install the other two screws , then tighten the rear screws first , followed by the hidden forward inner screw , re attch the actuating rod and it's clip , you're nearly there now . clean up your hands and gently lower the plastic vapor barrier sheet , it is *very* important and often gone missing , you can easily cut one out of clear plasic to suit , re install the inner trim panel , remembering to hold the front edge in first so that flusherginner map pocket clip hooks on the door's cutaway , then drop it down whist alinging the upper edge to grab firmly .
>
> Press the lower edge's plastic clips into thier holes , usually a few snap off but no worries .
>
> Install the three arm rest screws loosely , then tighten the lower two firmly and finally the upper one that's always lose , I find using spare exterior door handle screws with the attached flat washers , holds this better so it won't come loose again my folks pulling it to close the door . you can use any old 6MM flat washer , DO NOT use a start nor split washer here .
>
> Re - install the other trim screws and you're good to go .
>
> This is really the short form here , it sounds hard but is mostly a mater of working slowly and deliberately , *gently* above all else .
>
> I had several different 2 Philips screw drivers and discovered one fit the screws *much* better than did my old Craftsman , loose fitting Phillips scrwdrivers tend to strip out the heads more easly .
>
> Sorry about the crappy photos , I have them saved in my ipod thing so if anyone in So. Cal. knws how to down load them better , let's do that .
>
> -Nate
>
[diesel_mercedes] Re: Door Latch Fun
Well, I think this is really strange. Did you notice its 666 upside down?????????? Maybe a hidden message here? There was frost down below on Saaaturday. How about you? Music happenings in Curlew in two weeks for a disaster relief from the big storm a few weeks ago. Max
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Lost but making good time." <aldridgetony97@...> wrote:
>
> Max maybe it is just in our neck o woods, I get 999 also.
> Not only that but I got off topic whooping cough - arghghgh.
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "max_stemple" <jasperezra@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > I have been getting a "999" code all week. It would not let me post. I just figured someone got tired of me. Hey, wheres the guy that wanted the tail light? I've had it sitting here all summer. Max
> > --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "max_stemple" <jasperezra@> wrote:
> > >
> > > test
> > >
> > > --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Nate <vwnate1@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > WHERE THE HELL IS MY MESSAGE ?! .
> > > >
> > > > -Nate
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
[diesel_mercedes] What a great site. O/T
Have met two of the posters here Max and Nate, and have discovered that they are good guys. Have lots in common with some of the other posters and hope to meet them someday. Really enjoy the Mercedes info and help, and enjoy the bit of off topic chit chat, except when it goes political.
A vote of thanks to all here.
Tony
[diesel_mercedes] Re: Door Latch R & R W-123
Nate, once again you star. Am planning on ripping my panel off next week to fix the window.
The tip about how to use the sledge hammer and pry bar are invaluable <G>.
Tony
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
>
> O-kay then , let's give this a try .
>
> I removed the interior handles and mirror knob , then I gently and carefully pried the door panel away from the door proper , begining along the bottom and working my fingers arond to the ends and up wards . once I had all the clips popped loose I lifted the _rear_ edge of it up until the top edge began to release from it's vertical clips , then you twist the entire panel counter - clockise a tiny bit as you raise it 1/2" or so , this releases the front plastic clip holding the map pocket into place . (often broken , now you know why)
>
> Set the panel aside and raise up the plastic vapor barrier sheet from the rear lower edge only *just* enough to access the latch screws , pop out the black plastic oval cover in the door skin & unscrew two # 2 philips screws holding the rear of the exterior handle , peer in through the access hole stamped in the inside of the door and locate the # 2 phillips screw holding the front of the handle in , remove it and push the handle forward , it'll pop loose , set it aside .
>
> There are two 3MM locking rods connecting the inside handle and vacuum lock to the latch , there's a tiny sheet matal clip you press upwards on to release it , it'll prolly pop off and fall either inside the door or to the ground where you thoughtfully laid out a light colored old towel or sheet to prevent various tiny screws & clips from bouncing , never to be seen again .
>
> Once the clips are removed , the rod can be pushed out , one of the rods hooks in and con't be removed until the latch has been unscrewed and is free to wobble about .
>
> There are _four_ phillips screws holding the latch to the door , remove and set aside then work your left hand in through the door skin and your right hand in through the hole where the latch was , wirggle it thisa-way and that , as long as the window is fully up you can push it in a little bit then drop it down and inch or so , then you'll have to wriggle it as youu twist it behind the welded in rear window run channel ~ it's tricky , sort of like those Chinese Puzzles that we had when I were a lad but when you get it * Just So * , it'll easily slip out and plummet to the bottom of the door where you can remove it .
>
> Match your new latch to the old one and ascetain that the door handle's long lock rod has a bow tie shaped thing on the very end of it , I found mine in the bottom of the door along with the broken platic tip off the funnel shaped thing that connects the outer handle to the latch proper ~ this is all fairly delicate so be gentle as you test fit the lock shaft into the funnel , and twist it , the funnel has a tip on it that *must* move a flat stamped thing with a slot in it , for the key to lock or unlock the passenger side door .
>
> BOTH parts (handle shaft's metal bowtie end $ plastic funnels's tip) were broken on this car , it seems Mercedes wants you to use the key when you install the exterior handle , you must needs twist the key a bit as you gently guide the handle into place and use your eyes , flashlight and third hand to ensure that long shaft goes into the funnel shaped piece rather than dangle tantalizingly just below it .
>
> Once you think you have the handle properly installed , hold it in place whilst you insert one of the rear screws then test the key a few times to ensure the lock button goes up and down O.K. , then open the rear door for safety and close and open the front door several times , testing the key's ability to lock/un lock as well as the outer handle's ability to open the door as the handle has a tang that must needs go _behind_ the latch arm , as you're happliy lining up all the other parts.....
>
> It works ? good . now , loosen the rear handle screw and install the other two screws , then tighten the rear screws first , followed by the hidden forward inner screw , re attch the actuating rod and it's clip , you're nearly there now . clean up your hands and gently lower the plastic vapor barrier sheet , it is *very* important and often gone missing , you can easily cut one out of clear plasic to suit , re install the inner trim panel , remembering to hold the front edge in first so that flusherginner map pocket clip hooks on the door's cutaway , then drop it down whist alinging the upper edge to grab firmly .
>
> Press the lower edge's plastic clips into thier holes , usually a few snap off but no worries .
>
> Install the three arm rest screws loosely , then tighten the lower two firmly and finally the upper one that's always lose , I find using spare exterior door handle screws with the attached flat washers , holds this better so it won't come loose again my folks pulling it to close the door . you can use any old 6MM flat washer , DO NOT use a start nor split washer here .
>
> Re - install the other trim screws and you're good to go .
>
> This is really the short form here , it sounds hard but is mostly a mater of working slowly and deliberately , *gently* above all else .
>
> I had several different 2 Philips screw drivers and discovered one fit the screws *much* better than did my old Craftsman , loose fitting Phillips scrwdrivers tend to strip out the heads more easly .
>
> Sorry about the crappy photos , I have them saved in my ipod thing so if anyone in So. Cal. knws how to down load them better , let's do that .
>
> -Nate
>
[diesel_mercedes] Re: You Eastern guys and rust.
That's a *very* goo skill to have Nate .
-Nate
The _OTHER_ Nate Said :
>
> See guys I repair rust.
>
> --- On Sun, 8/26/12, Nate <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: Nate <vwnate1@...>
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: You Eastern guys and rust.
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sunday, August 26, 2012, 9:22 AM
>
>
>
> Â
>
>
>
>
> No kidding ! .
>
> I was born and raised a (damn) Yankee and soon learned to hate the dreaded " Tin Worm " (rust) because *you* may sleep but it _never_ does .
>
> -Nate
> Alan wrote :
> >
> > In the Northeast we don't often have those kinds of choices.
> >
> > On Sat, Aug 25, 2012 at 10:38 PM, Nate <vwnate1@> wrote:
> >
> > > **
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > That's called " Mechanic's Choice " and I _highy_ concuur .
> > >
> > > -Nate
> > > Mark wrote :
> > > >
> > > > See, for me, rust repair, and body work in general, is slow and painful
> > > and difficult to get right. BUT, a car with mechanical issues, of any type,
> > > is much easier to deal with. I'll take the clean, high-mileage Passat with
> > > the 1.8 turbo and slipped timing belt or blown transmission over grandpa's
> > > 55,000 mile rust-bucket any day.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Mark in Lakewood, CO
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Yahoo! Member Service" <tccservice111@>
> > > > To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 2:34:26 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: You Eastern guys and rust.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Rather have good drive train.
> > > >
> > > > --- On Fri, 8/24/12, Lawrence Rhodes <primobassoon@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > From: Lawrence Rhodes <primobassoon@>
> > > > Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: You Eastern guys and rust.
> > > > To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Date: Friday, August 24, 2012, 3:09 PM
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Posted by: "Yahoo! Member Service" tccservice111@ oldsinner111
> > > > Date: Thu Aug 23, 2012 6:20 am ((PDT))
> > > >
> > > > Here in the Southern State we buy Nothern Cars,their motors are amost
> > > new.But
> > > > they have rust and are cheap.We repair rust and send them to Texas,where
> > > > they"ll never rust again.
> > > >
> > > > Why bother repairing when you can get near perfect bodies for next to
> > > nothing.
> > > >
> > > > http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/3209431540.html Here is the first
> > > hit I
> > > > got. Almost perfect. Lawrence Rhodes....
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
[diesel_mercedes] Door Latch R & R W-123
O-kay then , let's give this a try .
I removed the interior handles and mirror knob , then I gently and carefully pried the door panel away from the door proper , begining along the bottom and working my fingers arond to the ends and up wards . once I had all the clips popped loose I lifted the _rear_ edge of it up until the top edge began to release from it's vertical clips , then you twist the entire panel counter - clockise a tiny bit as you raise it 1/2" or so , this releases the front plastic clip holding the map pocket into place . (often broken , now you know why)
Set the panel aside and raise up the plastic vapor barrier sheet from the rear lower edge only *just* enough to access the latch screws , pop out the black plastic oval cover in the door skin & unscrew two # 2 philips screws holding the rear of the exterior handle , peer in through the access hole stamped in the inside of the door and locate the # 2 phillips screw holding the front of the handle in , remove it and push the handle forward , it'll pop loose , set it aside .
There are two 3MM locking rods connecting the inside handle and vacuum lock to the latch , there's a tiny sheet matal clip you press upwards on to release it , it'll prolly pop off and fall either inside the door or to the ground where you thoughtfully laid out a light colored old towel or sheet to prevent various tiny screws & clips from bouncing , never to be seen again .
Once the clips are removed , the rod can be pushed out , one of the rods hooks in and con't be removed until the latch has been unscrewed and is free to wobble about .
There are _four_ phillips screws holding the latch to the door , remove and set aside then work your left hand in through the door skin and your right hand in through the hole where the latch was , wirggle it thisa-way and that , as long as the window is fully up you can push it in a little bit then drop it down and inch or so , then you'll have to wriggle it as youu twist it behind the welded in rear window run channel ~ it's tricky , sort of like those Chinese Puzzles that we had when I were a lad but when you get it * Just So * , it'll easily slip out and plummet to the bottom of the door where you can remove it .
Match your new latch to the old one and ascetain that the door handle's long lock rod has a bow tie shaped thing on the very end of it , I found mine in the bottom of the door along with the broken platic tip off the funnel shaped thing that connects the outer handle to the latch proper ~ this is all fairly delicate so be gentle as you test fit the lock shaft into the funnel , and twist it , the funnel has a tip on it that *must* move a flat stamped thing with a slot in it , for the key to lock or unlock the passenger side door .
BOTH parts (handle shaft's metal bowtie end $ plastic funnels's tip) were broken on this car , it seems Mercedes wants you to use the key when you install the exterior handle , you must needs twist the key a bit as you gently guide the handle into place and use your eyes , flashlight and third hand to ensure that long shaft goes into the funnel shaped piece rather than dangle tantalizingly just below it .
Once you think you have the handle properly installed , hold it in place whilst you insert one of the rear screws then test the key a few times to ensure the lock button goes up and down O.K. , then open the rear door for safety and close and open the front door several times , testing the key's ability to lock/un lock as well as the outer handle's ability to open the door as the handle has a tang that must needs go _behind_ the latch arm , as you're happliy lining up all the other parts.....
It works ? good . now , loosen the rear handle screw and install the other two screws , then tighten the rear screws first , followed by the hidden forward inner screw , re attch the actuating rod and it's clip , you're nearly there now . clean up your hands and gently lower the plastic vapor barrier sheet , it is *very* important and often gone missing , you can easily cut one out of clear plasic to suit , re install the inner trim panel , remembering to hold the front edge in first so that flusherginner map pocket clip hooks on the door's cutaway , then drop it down whist alinging the upper edge to grab firmly .
Press the lower edge's plastic clips into thier holes , usually a few snap off but no worries .
Install the three arm rest screws loosely , then tighten the lower two firmly and finally the upper one that's always lose , I find using spare exterior door handle screws with the attached flat washers , holds this better so it won't come loose again my folks pulling it to close the door . you can use any old 6MM flat washer , DO NOT use a start nor split washer here .
Re - install the other trim screws and you're good to go .
This is really the short form here , it sounds hard but is mostly a mater of working slowly and deliberately , *gently* above all else .
I had several different 2 Philips screw drivers and discovered one fit the screws *much* better than did my old Craftsman , loose fitting Phillips scrwdrivers tend to strip out the heads more easly .
Sorry about the crappy photos , I have them saved in my ipod thing so if anyone in So. Cal. knws how to down load them better , let's do that .
-Nate
Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: You Eastern guys and rust.
See guys I repair rust. --- On Sun, 8/26/12, Nate <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:
|
[diesel_mercedes] Re: You Eastern guys and rust.
No kidding ! .
I was born and raised a (damn) Yankee and soon learned to hate the dreaded " Tin Worm " (rust) because *you* may sleep but it _never_ does .
-Nate
Alan wrote :
>
> In the Northeast we don't often have those kinds of choices.
>
> On Sat, Aug 25, 2012 at 10:38 PM, Nate <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> >
> > That's called " Mechanic's Choice " and I _highy_ concuur .
> >
> > -Nate
> > Mark wrote :
> > >
> > > See, for me, rust repair, and body work in general, is slow and painful
> > and difficult to get right. BUT, a car with mechanical issues, of any type,
> > is much easier to deal with. I'll take the clean, high-mileage Passat with
> > the 1.8 turbo and slipped timing belt or blown transmission over grandpa's
> > 55,000 mile rust-bucket any day.
> > >
> > >
> > > Mark in Lakewood, CO
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Yahoo! Member Service" <tccservice111@>
> > > To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 2:34:26 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: You Eastern guys and rust.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Rather have good drive train.
> > >
> > > --- On Fri, 8/24/12, Lawrence Rhodes <primobassoon@> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > From: Lawrence Rhodes <primobassoon@>
> > > Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: You Eastern guys and rust.
> > > To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> > > Date: Friday, August 24, 2012, 3:09 PM
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Posted by: "Yahoo! Member Service" tccservice111@ oldsinner111
> > > Date: Thu Aug 23, 2012 6:20 am ((PDT))
> > >
> > > Here in the Southern State we buy Nothern Cars,their motors are amost
> > new.But
> > > they have rust and are cheap.We repair rust and send them to Texas,where
> > > they"ll never rust again.
> > >
> > > Why bother repairing when you can get near perfect bodies for next to
> > nothing.
> > >
> > > http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/3209431540.html Here is the first
> > hit I
> > > got. Almost perfect. Lawrence Rhodes....
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>