Re: [diesel_mercedes] W123 starter problem may be switch or wiring...?

 

Neutral safety switch?

There are a couple of nylon bushings that wear out in the shifter assembly that allow enough 'slop' in the linkage to prevent nss from closing. When they do, starting is iffy until bushings are replaced. Job is fairly easy and parts cheap.

Mark in Texas



On 3/16/2011 9:24 PM, nicholas black wrote:

 

had the same starting thing on my '84  300D.  
cleared itself up.   apparently by wiggling the shifter in the P and N positions it re-seated (or something) the contacts.

  another little electric f y i  that I learned (again and again) is to check the battery ground contact at the body.
 [keep it polished clean -- and I grease it before bolting]
              and make sure the terminal posts are clean/shiny
                 [-and greased, against, or at least to delay further oxidation]
    AND that the wire[s] going into the terminal clamps themselves are not oxidized or loose.
              I just brushed clean all of the fuse terminal contacts with a toothbrush-sized brass-bristled brush ... and cleaned the older (but still good) fuses as well.
 

On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 5:58 PM, n61cm <jim@tazwade.com> wrote:
 

Swapped out the starter on my 82 240D because it was completely dead and power was getting to the solenoid. How much power? Don't really know...used a light, not a meter. New starter has been doing fine. Then, yesterday, dead again. Tried three times with key, nothing going once, nothing going twice, nothing going three times...then as I was about to release the key, suddenly started after a one-second delay. Since then, have started it multiple times, no problems. Next, I had the original starter checked by a reputable starter/alternator shop and they said it was strong, no problems. So now I'm suspecting switch or wiring, mostly switch since wiring wouldn't necessarily be so intermittent. Maybe switch is acting as a resistor and power to solenoid is enough to light the light but not enough to kick the starter. Any idears?

Thanks, y'all.

Jim


 
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] W123 starter problem may be switch or wiring...?

 

had the same starting thing on my '84  300D.  
cleared itself up.   apparently by wiggling the shifter in the P and N positions it re-seated (or something) the contacts.

  another little electric f y i  that I learned (again and again) is to check the battery ground contact at the body.
 [keep it polished clean -- and I grease it before bolting]
              and make sure the terminal posts are clean/shiny
                 [-and greased, against, or at least to delay further oxidation]
    AND that the wire[s] going into the terminal clamps themselves are not oxidized or loose.
              I just brushed clean all of the fuse terminal contacts with a toothbrush-sized brass-bristled brush ... and cleaned the older (but still good) fuses as well.
 

On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 5:58 PM, n61cm <jim@tazwade.com> wrote:
 

Swapped out the starter on my 82 240D because it was completely dead and power was getting to the solenoid. How much power? Don't really know...used a light, not a meter. New starter has been doing fine. Then, yesterday, dead again. Tried three times with key, nothing going once, nothing going twice, nothing going three times...then as I was about to release the key, suddenly started after a one-second delay. Since then, have started it multiple times, no problems. Next, I had the original starter checked by a reputable starter/alternator shop and they said it was strong, no problems. So now I'm suspecting switch or wiring, mostly switch since wiring wouldn't necessarily be so intermittent. Maybe switch is acting as a resistor and power to solenoid is enough to light the light but not enough to kick the starter. Any idears?

Thanks, y'all.

Jim


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] W123 starter problem may be switch or wiring...?

 

Right front fenderwell, Under hood, small black plastic-ish box looking thing with some heavy wires going to/coming from it. pop the top and see two largerish screws and one smaller-ish one. use a wrench or pair of pliers to "short" the smaller one to either of the larger ones. this will bypass all the superfluous wiring elsewhere in the car, and energize the starter solenoid directly. If this works then your starter is good and you have a switch or wiring problem in some of that superfluous wiring mentioned above. Jiggle the trans lever or try starting in neutral and see if the trans safety lockout switch might be the problem.
keep us informed.

Bogy.
"I love a good electrical problem."

--- On Wed, 3/16/11, n61cm <jim@tazwade.com> wrote:

From: n61cm <jim@tazwade.com>
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] W123 starter problem may be switch or wiring...?
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, March 16, 2011, 5:58 PM

Swapped out the starter on my 82 240D because it was completely dead and power was getting to the solenoid.  How much power?  Don't really know...used a light, not a meter.  New starter has been doing fine.  Then, yesterday, dead again.  Tried three times with key, nothing going once, nothing going twice, nothing going three times...then as I was about to release the key, suddenly started after a one-second delay.  Since then, have started it multiple times, no problems.  Next, I had the original starter checked by a reputable starter/alternator shop and they said it was strong, no problems.  So now I'm suspecting switch or wiring, mostly switch since wiring wouldn't necessarily be so intermittent.  Maybe switch is acting as a resistor and power to solenoid is enough to light the light but not enough to kick the starter.  Any idears? 

Thanks, y'all. 

Jim

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Need battery tray for W123

 

Okay, answering my own question here...found one at Diesel Giant for $80 and one at Brinson for $55. Mine is way beyond repairable. In fact, I have to have the wheel well repaired, beyond my capability to do, battery acid has eaten all the way through it. Never noticed it but apparently common.

Jim

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[diesel_mercedes] W123 starter problem may be switch or wiring...?

 

Swapped out the starter on my 82 240D because it was completely dead and power was getting to the solenoid. How much power? Don't really know...used a light, not a meter. New starter has been doing fine. Then, yesterday, dead again. Tried three times with key, nothing going once, nothing going twice, nothing going three times...then as I was about to release the key, suddenly started after a one-second delay. Since then, have started it multiple times, no problems. Next, I had the original starter checked by a reputable starter/alternator shop and they said it was strong, no problems. So now I'm suspecting switch or wiring, mostly switch since wiring wouldn't necessarily be so intermittent. Maybe switch is acting as a resistor and power to solenoid is enough to light the light but not enough to kick the starter. Any idears?

Thanks, y'all.

Jim

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: I love it !!

 



--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Lost but making good time." <aldridgetony97@...> wrote:
>
> Mercedes sat all winter in the car port, this morning I took off the car cover, checked the oil, connected the battery and it flashed right up!!
> Wahoo, now if Max will drop by to shovel the snow from in front of the car, we can park the Toyota & go driving in a real car.
>
Mine sat all winter too(my 4-spd.), when I got in to start it a couple of weeks ago, it was like a time capsule and I remembered what I was doing last fall. Speaking of snow, last fall we put a new cover on one of our solar water heating panels on the roof. Not thinking snow would slide off the new cover. Well the last two days I found out snow would slide off, and it did, right tru the pourch roof. Took out about 3 panels of clear greenhouse stuff. Not complaining in light of events elsewhere. We were gonna replace the stuff soon anyway. Not shoveling sno anymore. Now channeling runoff tru mud on the driveway. Breakup full swing. Max

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[diesel_mercedes] Re : Monovalve

 


No ~

The top is just a weatherproof cover .

To test it , unplug it and apply 12 VDC , you'll hear it click .

-OR- , just go for coffee early in the AM , take a high speed road ~

either the heat works or it'll cut off after a bit .

Don't forget to test the auxiliary water pump before it catches your car on FIRE ...

-Nate
Tony ASKS :
>
> Mercedes sat all winter in the car port, this morning I took off the car cover, checked the oil, connected the battery and it flashed right up!!
> Ran just a bit ragged for the first couple of minutes then smoothed right out. Once I had a bit of warmth in the eng I shut er down & put in the new(ish) mono valve guts.
> Question.
> Hey should I be able to see the button on top of Mono V go up and down when the cabin air is switched from heat to AC?, this would let me know if it is working.
> Wahoo, now if Max will drop by to shovel the snow from in front of the car, we can park the Toyota & go driving in a real car.
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re :

 



--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Lost but making good time." <aldridgetony97@...> wrote:
>
> Mercedes sat all winter in the car port, this morning I took off the car cover, checked the oil, connected the battery and it flashed right up!!
> Ran just a bit ragged for the first couple of minutes then smoothed right out. Once I had a bit of warmth in the eng I shut er down & put in the new(ish) mono valve guts.
> Question.
> Hey should I be able to see the button on top of Mono V go up and down when the cabin air is switched from heat to AC?, this would let me know if it is working.
> Wahoo, now if Max will drop by to shovel the snow from in front of the car, we can park the Toyota & go driving in a real car.
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: A little gas in the tank, also ultra low sulfur fuels

 

Personally I do not add anything to my fuel, MM oil seems to be Nate & co's choice, I have heard 2 stroke oil is designed to burn cleanly in the cylinders, some put canola or olive oil into the tank. I am not an expert, the post below was copied from another site and seemed to make sense to me.

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Bobby Yates Emory <liberty1@...> wrote:
>
> Lost,
>
> \Is there an inexpensive way to get just the mineral oil?
>
> Is the mineral oil in the drugstore the same thing? Is it OK for fuel
> additive use?
>
> On Tue, Mar 15, 2011 at 11:27 PM, Lost but making good time. <
> aldridgetony97@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Copied from another forum,
> >
> > 1. ATF (any flavor) is red in color. It also turns your fuel red. It would
> > be hard to explain red fuel if you ever get dipped.
> >
> > 2. ATF also has friction modifiers in it meant for clutch paks in trannies,
> > not in injection pumps with tight tolerances.
> >
> > 3. This kinda falls under "right tool for the right job". There are much
> > better and cheaper additives to put in the tank designed for diesel engines.
> >
> > And number 4. This is a quote from another forum. The guy that posted this
> > works in the petrochem industry.
> > Originally Posted by Flash
> > How about we look at the chemistry that makes up the Ford ATFs. If you are
> > using Mercon V for your additive, it is a generally 20w mineral fluid and
> > sometimes is a PAO basestock with some diesters. Not bad so far. Now comes
> > the additive package with 2200-2500 ppm's sulphur and 600-800 ppm's of zinc.
> > I don't think I would want to purposely run that much sulphur thru my engine
> > as it will end up as sulphuric acid in the oil. And that much zinc run thru
> > the injectors has got to eventually cause some erosion. So, lets look at
> > Fords Type F ATF. It is a 20w mineral fluid with 12,000-13,000 ppm's of
> > phosphorus, 3500 ppm's zinc, and about 800 ppm's barium. I can't believe
> > this wouldn't poison a diesel engine. The acid load on the oil has to be
> > tremendous. I would suggest using an additive that is made to do the job if
> > you are using an additive at all.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Toward freedom,
>
> Bobby Yates Emory
>

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[diesel_mercedes] I love it !!

 

Mercedes sat all winter in the car port, this morning I took off the car cover, checked the oil, connected the battery and it flashed right up!!
Ran just a bit ragged for the first couple of minutes then smoothed right out. Once I had a bit of warmth in the eng I shut er down & put in the new(ish) mono valve guts.
Question.
Hey should I be able to see the button on top of Mono V go up and down when the cabin air is switched from heat to AC?, this would let me know if it is working.
Wahoo, now if Max will drop by to shovel the snow from in front of the car, we can park the Toyota & go driving in a real car.

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Sagging Rear End

 

Bobby,

I know that.  When I bought my 300SD, it looked like it had been lowered it sat so low, but since I'd seen this problem before, I bought it a new set of Bilstiens, and it went right back up where it belonged.  In fact, it went up so far it topped out the suspension, was several weeks before it settled down where it belongs.

Gas shocks have their own spring rate, and it adds to the spring rate of the springs, if they loose pressure, the car gets lower and softer, usually asymmetrically..

bk

--- On Wed, 3/16/11, Bobby Yates Emory <liberty1@gmail.com> wrote:

From: Bobby Yates Emory <liberty1@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Sagging Rear End
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, March 16, 2011, 10:55 AM

 

BK,
 
There are air shocks that help lift the car.
 
Gas shocks are pressurized, but merely to reduce foaming of the hydraulic fluid.  They are usually higher quality than the non-gas shocks in a manufacturer line.  So, if they lose pressure, they may not be as good a shock, but would not cause that corner to below.
 
I think.
 
Bobby

On Tue, Mar 15, 2011 at 4:43 PM, briankk <briankk@att.net> wrote:
 

I think it may depend on what kind of shocks are fitted.  Gas shocks that lose pressure at one corner will do what you describe.

bk


--- On Tue, 3/15/11, Nate Rector <tccservice111@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Nate Rector <tccservice111@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Sagging Rear End

To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, March 15, 2011, 7:05 AM


 

Weak spring .These cars have the weakest springs,they need a muscle car spring to replace.

--- On Tue, 3/15/11, Don Benski <dbenski@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

From: Don Benski <dbenski@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Sagging Rear End
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, March 15, 2011, 8:58 AM

 

With Spring trying to make an appearance here in the Heartland, the wife has been 'encouraging' me to pull her 1980 300D out of winter storage.   So this past weekend, I open the garage door and notice the right rear is a little low.  My first thought was a low tire, which there was, but even when all tire are properly inflated the passenger side rear is one-half inch lower than the driver side.  Now that doesn't sound like much, but it is quite noticeable.  A peek under the car didn't reveal any obvious problems.  Does this sound like a weak shock or spring?

 

Don in St. Louis (3" of snow on Monday, 70 degrees on Thursday)





--
Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: A little gas in the tank, also ultra low sulfur fuels

 

Lost,
 
\Is there an inexpensive way to get just the mineral oil?
 
Is the mineral oil in the drugstore the same thing?  Is it OK for fuel additive use?

On Tue, Mar 15, 2011 at 11:27 PM, Lost but making good time. <aldridgetony97@yahoo.com> wrote:
 

Copied from another forum,

1. ATF (any flavor) is red in color. It also turns your fuel red. It would be hard to explain red fuel if you ever get dipped.

2. ATF also has friction modifiers in it meant for clutch paks in trannies, not in injection pumps with tight tolerances.

3. This kinda falls under "right tool for the right job". There are much better and cheaper additives to put in the tank designed for diesel engines.

And number 4. This is a quote from another forum. The guy that posted this works in the petrochem industry.
Originally Posted by Flash
How about we look at the chemistry that makes up the Ford ATFs. If you are using Mercon V for your additive, it is a generally 20w mineral fluid and sometimes is a PAO basestock with some diesters. Not bad so far. Now comes the additive package with 2200-2500 ppm's sulphur and 600-800 ppm's of zinc. I don't think I would want to purposely run that much sulphur thru my engine as it will end up as sulphuric acid in the oil. And that much zinc run thru the injectors has got to eventually cause some erosion. So, lets look at Fords Type F ATF. It is a 20w mineral fluid with 12,000-13,000 ppm's of phosphorus, 3500 ppm's zinc, and about 800 ppm's barium. I can't believe this wouldn't poison a diesel engine. The acid load on the oil has to be tremendous. I would suggest using an additive that is made to do the job if you are using an additive at all.




--
Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Detroit engine seizure Freeze Plugs

 

Brian,
 
I could not figure out which one you meant.  Could you tell me in a simpler way - simple ways for us simple minds?
 
Bobby

On Sun, Mar 13, 2011 at 9:53 PM, BStromsoe <bstromsoe@yahoo.com> wrote:
 

This one (old posts) is super great. There are many more, stay tuned.
 
brian from la verne, ca


From: GENE <ekautz@centurytel.net>

To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, March 13, 2011 9:28:51 AM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Detroit engine seizure Freeze Plugs

 

 
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2011 7:43 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Detroit engine seizure Freeze Plugs
Hi   I just joined the group site . I have purchased a 1987
Mercedes-Benz 124 300d that needs a lot of TLC and I need some repair tec.  information.I signed up with Mitchel 1 on line but they don't show how to repair or
give pic's or discribe how to do repairs. My question is
what is the best repair manual or web site to use?
                Thanks Gene
 




--
Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory

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