[Diesel-RVs] Re: Fumoto Valve

What I do is get the oil hot or warm,make sure you can turn the
filter,then punch a hole in the bottom with an ice pick or what
ever,let it drain,then remove.
Phillip
--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" <jrbarber@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks all for the Fumoto advice. I like the Ranger Design,
> www.rangerdesign.com/RangerDesign_OilChange.htm
> <www.rangerdesign.com/RangerDesign_OilChange.htm> that seems to be
> less vulnerable to damage.
>
> FWIW, the only time I ever had my oil changed by a "professional"
> instead of doing it myself, was the time I ended up at the Cat Parts
> counter, replacing a X-threaded drain plug.
>
> On a related subject... Any suggestions for removing hot, slippery
oil
> filters without losing them? As soon as filter is loose enough for
oil
> to start spilling out and burning my hands, it's too slick to hang
onto.
> Thought I had a solution when I wrapped duct tape handles around the
> filters before loosening them. That worked until the filter dropped
> free, and still slid thru my hands splashing into my catch bucket.
I
> was ready for filter #2. I knew what was going to happen and kept
one
> hand cupped under the filter but it still got away and again
splashed
> into the bucket. I have a great collection of oil-changing caps and
> t-shirts, each with a different splash design.
>
> Jim in CO
> '87 CC LTD (3208T)
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Fumoto Valve

Thanks all for the Fumoto advice. I like the Ranger Design,
www.rangerdesign.com/RangerDesign_OilChange.htm
<www.rangerdesign.com/RangerDesign_OilChange.htm> that seems to be
less vulnerable to damage.

FWIW, the only time I ever had my oil changed by a "professional"
instead of doing it myself, was the time I ended up at the Cat Parts
counter, replacing a X-threaded drain plug.

On a related subject... Any suggestions for removing hot, slippery oil
filters without losing them? As soon as filter is loose enough for oil
to start spilling out and burning my hands, it's too slick to hang onto.
Thought I had a solution when I wrapped duct tape handles around the
filters before loosening them. That worked until the filter dropped
free, and still slid thru my hands splashing into my catch bucket. I
was ready for filter #2. I knew what was going to happen and kept one
hand cupped under the filter but it still got away and again splashed
into the bucket. I have a great collection of oil-changing caps and
t-shirts, each with a different splash design.

Jim in CO
'87 CC LTD (3208T)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] do I have to drain the tranny (auto) to change the lines?

Don't need to drain the transmission when removing the lines. Be prepared to lose about two cups of fluid, though, from the cooler.

I have the cooler lines out of my '79 300SD. (I removed them in conjunction with rebuilding the transmission, replacing the crankshaft seals, and whole lotta other stuff.) Mine, too, are badly worn where they clamp to the oil pan, but not yet to the point of leaking. There's supposed to be rubber around the hose at the clamp, but the rubber on mine dried up and disintegrated, leaving a metal clamp to rub a metal tube.

While I had the oil pan off and the crank dropped down to replace the rear crank seal, I decided that with 300,000 miles on this engine to go ahead and replace the rod and main bearing shells. The mains were all good; no longer with the shiny polish the replacement shells had, but certainly serviceable. Four of the rod bearing sets had signs of wear at either side where the rod cap meets the rod. Like dots about the diameter of pencil lead. The fifth cylinder (and last in the oil supply chain) actually had a chunk the size of a pencil erasure out of the very top of the rod side. The crankshaft itself was just fine. The oil pressure on this one kept above the first mark on the guage at idle on the hottest days, and would peg the meter above that, but would drop down to the 3/4-mark when accelerating. The previous owner said it had been doing that the whole time and 50,000 miles he owned the car. It would probably have gone on indefinately like that, but I'm hoping my efforts will have cured that problem, if it even is one.

So, yes, these low ends are fairly bullet-proof.

Mark in Fort Collins, CO

-----Original Message-----
>From: Eric Ditwiler <Eric_Ditwiler@hmc.edu>
>Sent: Jan 19, 2008 9:52 PM
>To: diesel mercedes <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [diesel_mercedes] do I have to drain the tranny (auto) to change the lines?
>
>on a 1982 300CD.
>
>And I mean the metal lines that go all the way back from the rubber end hoses?
>
>Mine leak where they are clamped to the lower oil pan.
>
>
>I hope to get my head on tomorrow.
>
>Hoping that all the stories of bullet proof bottom ends are true

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[diesel_mercedes] do I have to drain the tranny (auto) to change the lines?

on a 1982 300CD.

And I mean the metal lines that go all the way back from the rubber end hoses?

Mine leak where they are clamped to the lower oil pan.

I hope to get my head on tomorrow.

Hoping that all the stories of bullet proof bottom ends are true

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: 96 Monaco Dynasty

Try http://www.coastlinecover.com/coach.htm

-Les Crawshaw

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "Russ Waterhouse"
<mredsel890@...> wrote:
>
> My opinion, you are better off with out anything. A bra will rub
against the paint, and if
> dirt gets under it, you have sandpaper. Since you already have
chips, why worry? Also, a
> bra prevents sun from shining on it. This means the rest of the
coach will bleach/fade out
> and the covered part will not. Either way I feel you will end up
with something that
> looks like crap.
> I repainted my front end and it was not hard, and I was on
crutches.
> Russ
> 34' 1996 HMC Aerosport Special Edition Cummins 8.3 - 300 HP
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "noladiver" <noladiver@...>
> To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 10:42 AM
> Subject: [Diesel-RVs] 96 Monaco Dynasty
>
>
> :I am trying to purchase a "bra" for the front of my Dynasty. There
> : does not seem to be anyone out there (including ADCO) that offers
a
> : front cover. Please note, the plastic shield would work but
would
> : only serve to reveal the chips that are already there AND I am not
> : ready for a front end repaint.
> :
> : Thanks
> :
> :
> :
> : --------------------------------------------
> : Off-topic posts will be removed.
> : Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the
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> :
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> :
> : Yahoo! Groups Links
> :
> :
> :
> :
>

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] 96 Monaco Dynasty

My opinion, you are better off with out anything. A bra will rub against the paint, and if
dirt gets under it, you have sandpaper. Since you already have chips, why worry? Also, a
bra prevents sun from shining on it. This means the rest of the coach will bleach/fade out
and the covered part will not. Either way I feel you will end up with something that
looks like crap.
I repainted my front end and it was not hard, and I was on crutches.
Russ
34' 1996 HMC Aerosport Special Edition Cummins 8.3 - 300 HP

----- Original Message -----
From: "noladiver" <noladiver@yahoo.com>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 10:42 AM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] 96 Monaco Dynasty

:I am trying to purchase a "bra" for the front of my Dynasty. There
: does not seem to be anyone out there (including ADCO) that offers a
: front cover. Please note, the plastic shield would work but would
: only serve to reveal the chips that are already there AND I am not
: ready for a front end repaint.
:
: Thanks
:
:
:
: --------------------------------------------
: Off-topic posts will be removed.
: Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.
:
: To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
: Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
:
: Yahoo! Groups Links
:
:
:
:

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] 96 Monaco Dynasty

Look at RV Toy Store. They have them for 499. Not cheep but a lot of people buy from them.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: noladiver<mailto:noladiver@yahoo.com>
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 11:42 AM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] 96 Monaco Dynasty

I am trying to purchase a "bra" for the front of my Dynasty. There
does not seem to be anyone out there (including ADCO) that offers a
front cover. Please note, the plastic shield would work but would
only serve to reveal the chips that are already there AND I am not
ready for a front end repaint.

Thanks

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Sliding Hitch Advice Needed

parno,
You might want to investigate a extended pin box on your fifth wheeler. I used one on a Jayco fiver with a short bed Ford F 150. It allowed me to turn over 90 degrees. A lot cheaper. Most pin boxes are the same on all fivers. Check your RV dealer for one. Chuck B

parno357 <PM7088@comcast.net> wrote:
I'm being strongly tempted by a used low mileage Cummings Dodge with a
6.5 foot bed.

This would require a sliding hitch at about $700.

I have no experience with these.

Are they ok?

Please chime in.

--

Regards,
Peter T. Arnold
NCT 13990
The Masonic Family Camping Association
1995 F-250 PSD
1998 Prowler 31' 5th

Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

---------------------------------
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Re: [Diesel-RVs] ceiling stain

2 parts water, 1 part Clorox, spray mist and blot gently. Let dry. Worked for me.
J. Ken Coats
2001 National Tradewinds
Now in Mesa, Az
----- Original Message -----
From: donperet2002
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 4:52 PM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] ceiling stain

Hi all,
We have a small brown stain on ceiling fabric that needs to go. I
remember reading posts on how to clean off spot but of course can't
remember what posts said. What's best way? I seem to remember something
about either oxy clean or peroxide???

Don and Shirley Peret
1999 Safari Serengeti
2002 Jeep Wrangler

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Diesel-RVs] ceiling stain

Hi all,
We have a small brown stain on ceiling fabric that needs to go. I
remember reading posts on how to clean off spot but of course can't
remember what posts said. What's best way? I seem to remember something
about either oxy clean or peroxide???

Don and Shirley Peret
1999 Safari Serengeti
2002 Jeep Wrangler

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Sliding Hitch Advice Needed

Before I got my DP I hauled my Damon 34' with my 2003 Dodge diesel. I had a
slider in the short bed but never need to slide as the 5'er had just enough
angle forward on the male stinger to clear except in the worst jack knife
and I avoided that. I did slide it several times after getting boxed in and
P***ed off at truck stops in Mexico. Still got the truck now for sale, DW
cant drive it anymore.
Jim & Sally Fluckey
2001 40' Allegro Bus
Jeep Liberty 4X4 toad
----- Original Message -----
From: "parno357" <PM7088@comcast.net>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 1:26 PM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Sliding Hitch Advice Needed

> I'm being strongly tempted by a used low mileage Cummings Dodge with a
> 6.5 foot bed.
>
> This would require a sliding hitch at about $700.
>
> I have no experience with these.
>
> Are they ok?
>
> Please chime in.
>
> --
>
> Regards,
> Peter T. Arnold
> NCT 13990
> The Masonic Family Camping Association
> 1995 F-250 PSD
> 1998 Prowler 31' 5th
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------
> Off-topic posts will be removed.
> Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model
> you have.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
> Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Pulling a trailer with 240D

Cool thanks

On Jan 19, 2008 5:59 PM, Jeff Fennema <jeffcosmo@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > HeyJeff,
> >
> > I looked in the photo section and did not see anything labeled
> > trailer hitch, am I missing something?
> >
> Perhaps, it was about the 72nd file, so three or more pages in. The Photos
> section is alphabetical, look for the 'next' text near the bottom.
> Jeff
>
>

--
Steve Schaefer

Those who give up liberty for the sake of security deserve neither
liberty nor security.
--- Ben Franklin

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Found a 5mm allen head on the torque converter. Is that the way to drain the Torque Converter.

>I turned over the motor slowly and came across a flush 5mm allen head bolt
> in the Torque converter. Is that the drain for the torque converter
> fluid?
> Lawrence Rhodes.....

T'is. Should be a copper washer under it. Don't lose.

Jeff

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Pulling a trailer with 240D

> HeyJeff,
>
> I looked in the photo section and did not see anything labeled
> trailer hitch, am I missing something?
>
Perhaps, it was about the 72nd file, so three or more pages in. The Photos
section is alphabetical, look for the 'next' text near the bottom.
Jeff

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[diesel_mercedes] Found a 5mm allen head on the torque converter. Is that the way to drain the Torque Converter.

I turned over the motor slowly and came across a flush 5mm allen head bolt
in the Torque converter. Is that the drain for the torque converter fluid?
Lawrence Rhodes.....

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: salt cracking

Here is more information

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uklIlb44l2w

On Jan 19, 2008 5:21 PM, Nate <tccservice111@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> it is doing just like with lye and methonal.3 layers bottom soap,middle
> fuel,top fatty acids. Will let sit over night draw off top layer then
> take fuel layer and filter with baking soda,to see if salt is gone.
>
>

--
Steve Schaefer

Those who give up liberty for the sake of security deserve neither
liberty nor security.
--- Ben Franklin

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: What parts would be needed to install a remote fuel filter?

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com,
Dean, check with your Cummins dealer for a Prim-Loc remote filter kit
#PLU-16MM for a C8.3 if they don't have it Call Spartan Chassis,
parts dept ask for Jeff Mogg and give him that part#, I got my kit
from them for $180.00 plus shipping.
Bill W.
97 U270 Foretravel.

"Dean" <gains44@...> wrote:
>
> Hey Larry, good advice, a variation of which I already use. The real
> problem is leaning down into the engine compartment and removing the
> filter. Either my arms are too short, stomach is too big, or my
> elbows are on backwards, but moving that filter would make my changes
> much easier.
>
> If it is just a matter of fuel lines and a new filter housing mounted
> elsewhere, I could do it without paying for all the labor otherwise
> required.
>
> Dean
>
> --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "triker_38" <triker_38@> wrote:
> >
> > When you take the wet filter out. Put it inside a 1 gal. zip lock
> bag
> > and seal it.
> > Before you carry it through the coach.
> > While you have the engine cover up doing that. It is also a good
> time
> > to check all the belts & maybe clean the radiator if you have a
> rear
> > one.
> >
> > Larry 99 Discovery 34Q + HD FXSTI
> >
> > --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "Dean" <gains44@> wrote:
> > >
> > > My 1994 8.3 300hp Cummins has a nearly inaccessible fuel filter
> > mounted
> > > on the passenger side of my DP. To access the filter I must lift
> the
> > > bed and the engine cover and carry wet fuel filters through coach.
> > >
> > > I do have a fuel/water separator filter mounted near the rear
> bumper
> > > which is very convenient.
> > >
> > > What parts in addition to the fuel lines would I need to move the
> > small
> > > fuel filter to a more accessible position?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > Dean
> > > 1995 CC Magna + Jeep GC
> > >
> >
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: salt cracking

it is doing just like with lye and methonal.3 layers bottom soap,middle
fuel,top fatty acids. Will let sit over night draw off top layer then
take fuel layer and filter with baking soda,to see if salt is gone.

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[diesel_mercedes] salt cracking

If you all have seen that salt cracking idea to make biodiesel without
lye,and methonal.I'm going to try a test here.I'll let you know if it
works.

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Pulling a trailer with 240D

Max wrote:

> Steve Schaefer wrote:
>
> > Can a 240D pull a small trailer? If the answer is yes, how do you
> > hookup the hitch?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Steve Friend
> >
> >
>
> __._Yes, of course. My son pulls a trailer with one of our 240's with
> his snowmobile or 4 wheeler, depending on season. He did say the hills
> are really slow and the car uses more fuel. It bolts on the back. Max
> Dont know why that happens. I do the same thing everytime,_.___
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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Cumins C8.3 300 DIY oil change

Same situation with my C8.3-250. With 24 quarts the toad is a mess
until it blows out a couple quarts. With 22 quarts all is well.

Greg
1994 Pace Arrow C8.3

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "Dean" <gains44@...> wrote:
>
> Fred and George, thanks for the confirming info. I feel much more
> competent now.
>
> I have considered the Fumoto Valve, but always forget about it until
> the next six month oil change. Will order one today.
>
> One of the reasons my oil changes cost too much at the service shops is
> they were charging me for more oil than the engine apparently holds.
> Not a big deal, but still more money in my pocket.
>
> Dean
> 95 CC Magna + Jeep GC
>
>
>
>
> --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "Dean" <gains44@> wrote:
> >
> > My manual says I have about 28 quarts of oil in the engine. I have
> > done six oil changes and each time have drained @ 20 quarts from the
> > system and filled with about twenty quarts. The quantity includes
> the
> > oil filter and spillage (which I always seem to accomplish).
> >
> > My measurements are reasonably accurate. I have done the oil change
> > with the rear wheels on a 6 inch ramp and also on the ground with the
> > coach leveled.
> >
> > What is your experience with this engine as to quantities at oil
> change?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Dean
> > 95 CC Magna, 300 Hp Cummins 8.3L mech
> >
>

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Fumoto Valve

I installed one on my coach last year. The drain plug on my oil pan
is at a 45 degree angle so the Fumoto valve doesn't stick down
inviting trouble. As long as you drive around a bit before draining
the oil it comes out plenty fast. No negatives in my application.

Greg
1994 Pace Arrow C8.3

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, fred hengel <fjh1@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Jim.
>
> The oil pan clearance is the only downside.
>
> For someone who does his own oil changes it's the best thing since
sliced
> bread. You can change your oil anywhere as long as you have empty
jugs with
> you. If you never change the oil yourself theres not a benefit that I am
> aware of.
>
> There are some coaches that could have a lower than normal oil pan.
Common
> sense has to rule here. Most well designed coaches have no problems but
> there are always exceptions so check before doing.
>
> Fred Hengel
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Jim
> Date: 01/18/08 21:57:14
> To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Fumoto Valve
>
> Does anyone have any negative information regarding the Fumoto
> QuickDrain Valve? I'm very interested in using one but have always
> had concerns about it sticking out below the oil pan and getting
> opened or knocked off accidentally. Thanks.
> Jim Barber
> '87 CC LTD
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

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[Diesel-RVs] Sliding Hitch Advice Needed

I'm being strongly tempted by a used low mileage Cummings Dodge with a
6.5 foot bed.

This would require a sliding hitch at about $700.

I have no experience with these.

Are they ok?

Please chime in.

--

Regards,
Peter T. Arnold
NCT 13990
The Masonic Family Camping Association
1995 F-250 PSD
1998 Prowler 31' 5th

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Pulling a trailer with 240D

HeyJeff,

I looked in the photo section and did not see anything labeled
trailer hitch, am I missing something?

On Jan 19, 2008 1:15 PM, Jeff Fennema <jeffcosmo@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Can a 240D pull a small trailer? If the answer is yes, how do you
> > hookup the hitch?
> >
> If the existence of a factory hitch attached to a 240 is any indication,
> the
> 240 can, indeed, tow a small trailer.
> However, said hitch cannot be supplied by a US Merc dealer (it won't fit a
> US spec car).
> But, if you look in the "Photos" section, you will see a photo gallery of a
> build of a trailer hitch for a US spec W123.
> It's titled "Trailer Hitch, W123". Catchy, eh?!
> If you need more help, let me know. I can also supply photos of a factory
> hitch on a Euro-spec Coupe.
> Jeff
>
>

--
Steve Schaefer

Those who give up liberty for the sake of security deserve neither
liberty nor security.
--- Ben Franklin

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] ot: free F-600 cab and chassis

well,
I would drop on by, but, it may be a while.........
especially by the time I find a snow cat I can afford......

----- Original Message -----
From: "Max" <max@ispvip.biz>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] ot: free F-600 cab and chassis

> ygmir111 wrote:
>
>> yup,
>> If you're willing to pay by the hour...........hahahahahaa
>>
>> I think with a new carb and windshields, it'd do it.........
>>
>> I've had stuff trucked here from Fruitvale ID. Are you close to there?
>> If I got a load of stuff from there, maybe the driver could bring it
>> back to
>> you and we could split the cost?
>> I don't know when that'd be, though.........unless he finds me a snow
>> cat up
>> there........
>>
>> seeya,
>> Henry
>>
>> -
>>
>>
> Rats, thought you would just drop on by with it. Will you please park
> your sno-cat here. Max
>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: OT: free F-600 cab and chassis

ok, thanks.

----- Original Message -----
From: "vwnate1" <vwnate1@yahoo.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 10:56 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: OT: free F-600 cab and chassis

I'll keep you posted one way or t'other Henry ;

I called him but he's out working in the field today .

-Nate
Henry wrote:
>
> ok.
> Just let me know.......
>
> Henry

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Fumoto Valve

I had a Fumoto on my Audi - and ripped that puppy right off with a
parking bumper. Cost me an oil pan, 8 quarts of oil and a tow...

With my C8.3 in my 1st Foretravel I went with this design.
http://www.rangerdesign.com/RangerDesign_OilChange.htm

Its safer and has essentially a 'double lock' against draining via the
internal valve and cap w/oring. Its actually a european design. Screwing
in the hose opens the valve, and you can modulate the flow rate.
A bit more expensive, but worth it in my opinion...

I haven't put one on my M-11 yet, but likely will.

Will wrote:
> On my 3126 engine, the drain plug is on the side. If something hit the
> nipple on the Fumoto, it would be hitting the oil pan too.It makes oil
> changes easy while away from base. The idea of a big plastic tub is a
> good one too. I have done that and it works. Brett mentioned the full
> process in a thread a while back. Good system
>
>

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[diesel_mercedes] You Guys (and Gals !) -ROCK- !

I don't want to spill the beans just yet but yeterday evening I
received another important part for my on - going Diesel Coupe fix
up project .

I am usualy the parts finder but here in Sunny So. Cal. some parts
are not available used so when I ask for help with parts , many of
you have been _extremely_ helpful and I really appreciate it .

I have also begun collecting trouble shooting info for the early
Klima I HVAC system and will hopefully soon have a file on it in the
home page .

I even found a nifty diagram of the plumbing of the srvo and the
actual water flow , this should help explain where to install manual
heater valves etc.

Oops ! gotta run SWMBO is dressed and nearly ready to go out .

-Nate

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: OT: free F-600 cab and chassis

I'll keep you posted one way or t'other Henry ;

I called him but he's out working in the field today .

-Nate
Henry wrote:
>
> ok.
> Just let me know.......
>
> Henry

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Pulling a trailer with 240D

Steve Schaefer wrote:

> Can a 240D pull a small trailer? If the answer is yes, how do you
> hookup the hitch?
>
> Thanks
>
> Steve Friend
>
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] ot: free F-600 cab and chassis

ygmir111 wrote:

> yup,
> If you're willing to pay by the hour...........hahahahahaa
>
> I think with a new carb and windshields, it'd do it.........
>
> I've had stuff trucked here from Fruitvale ID. Are you close to there?
> If I got a load of stuff from there, maybe the driver could bring it
> back to
> you and we could split the cost?
> I don't know when that'd be, though.........unless he finds me a snow
> cat up
> there........
>
> seeya,
> Henry
>
> -
>
>
Rats, thought you would just drop on by with it. Will you please park
your sno-cat here. Max

>
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Draining fluid from torque converter W123

Two questions regarding these instructions:
Is the drain bolt accessed through the grill on the bottom of the
transmission?
What size bolt is it? Thanks for any info. Lawrence Rhodes....

2 methods :

1. large socket to turn the front huge bolt at the front crank pully
and if you just rotate the fan blades out of the way - nothing needs
to be removed to crank from below using a breaker bar

2. with a big, broad flat blade screw driver - GENTLY!!
pry againist the bottom of the torque converter housing
slot openings against the T-Q. Mark with a dot of paint so you can tell if
you may have passed the plug by rotating too quickly.

be prepared to have splashing while the ATF is draining !
lay a huge sheet of cardboard down to protect the ground and save clean-up-
and have a pan with atleast 10qt. capacity also.
Always replace the metal crush ring before replacing the drain screw.

when it's time to refill - start with just 2-3 quarts with the motor off.
START the motor and continue to all 1/2 qt at a time and you should filter
the fluid into the dipstick tube - correct method-
so just be damm sure no dirt enters. Dinner Table Clean funnel only !! DO
NOT OVER FILL - bring up to lower mark only. THEN road test for 5 miles and
re-check on level ground at idle. only top up to upper stick mark with a
fully warmed up - hot oil condition. When cold - the oil level my be below
the lower mark - or just at the lower mark depending on your model.

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Fumoto Valve

On my 3126 engine, the drain plug is on the side. If something hit the
nipple on the Fumoto, it would be hitting the oil pan too.It makes oil
changes easy while away from base. The idea of a big plastic tub is a
good one too. I have done that and it works. Brett mentioned the full
process in a thread a while back. Good system

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[Diesel-RVs] 96 Monaco Dynasty

I am trying to purchase a "bra" for the front of my Dynasty. There
does not seem to be anyone out there (including ADCO) that offers a
front cover. Please note, the plastic shield would work but would
only serve to reveal the chips that are already there AND I am not
ready for a front end repaint.

Thanks

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RE: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: ot: free F-600 cab and chassis

www.m-100.cc

when the US came out with big block cars,benz said i
can do that. from what i have read you may have to
sell your house to fix them. youtube has some videos.

greg m

>------- Original Message -------
>From : ygmir111[mailto:ygmir111@att.net]
>Sent : 1/18/2008 7:21:47 PM
>To : diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
>Cc :
>Subject : RE: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: ot: free
F-600 cab and chassis
>
>m100?
You've got me there.........

Henry

----- Original Message -----
From: <gtmode@cyberback.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 4:13 PM
Subject: RE: [diesel_mercedes] Re: ot: free F-600 cab
and chassis

>
> most of them were m100`s. there is a web site.
> google m100.
>
> greg m
>
>
>>------- Original Message -------
>>From : vwnate1[ mailto:vwnate1@yahoo.com]
>>Sent : 1/18/2008 4:11:15 PM
>>To : diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
>>Cc :
>>Subject : RE: [diesel_mercedes] Re: ot: free F-600
> cab and chassis
>>
> >
> Prolly so ;
>
> I'm not sharp on these but I have a buddy who digs
> 'em , I'll let him
> know this weekend .
>
> -Nate
> Henry wrote:
>>
>> it's a big block, not sure, though, of the size.
>> Would there be an easy way to tell?
>>
>> Henry
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "vwnate1" <vwnate1@...>
>> To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 7:06 AM
>> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: ot: free F-600 cab
> and chassis
>>
>>
>>
>> Waht kinda engine ? .
>>
>> -Nate
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Pulling a trailer with 240D

> Can a 240D pull a small trailer? If the answer is yes, how do you
> hookup the hitch?
>
If the existence of a factory hitch attached to a 240 is any indication, the
240 can, indeed, tow a small trailer.
However, said hitch cannot be supplied by a US Merc dealer (it won't fit a
US spec car).
But, if you look in the "Photos" section, you will see a photo gallery of a
build of a trailer hitch for a US spec W123.
It's titled "Trailer Hitch, W123". Catchy, eh?!
If you need more help, let me know. I can also supply photos of a factory
hitch on a Euro-spec Coupe.
Jeff

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: What parts would be needed to install a remote fuel filter?

my 1996 cummins 8.3L had the engine mounted fuel filter where it
could be reached from underneath but it took a long arm. i got the
remote filter kit from cummins and installed it at a lower location.
i think it cost $250. it has the guage that tells me if there is a
restriction in the filter.
tom wilson

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, dknig288@... wrote:
>
> You would need the part that the filter "screws" into. I just had
a remote filter kit installed on my 2002 8.3 at Cummins South. They
moved my only filter to the back, added a second filter in front of
the lift pump and provided all of the hoses. The hoses were
expensive but, they are wrapped in a high temp protective fabric
lookin stuff. They also provided the adapter at the engine where the
fuel goes into it (where the old filter mounting was). Total cost
was a little over $500.00 including parts and labor.
>
> In response to your question, I guess that your would need the
hoses (make sure they can withstand heat from the engine), an adapter
where the old filter mount was located on the engine, another filter
mount (for the new filter location (I don't know if the filter mount
from the engine can be used or not -- I think they may have used that
on my relocation -- the old one from the engine), and the necessary
filter. If you work like me, my labor is very cheap. I could not do
it as I had back surgery this past Fall. The filter setup they gave
me was a regular filter in front of the lift pump (to catch large
debris -- protecting the pump) and then after the lift pump a small
particulate filter to protect the engine. Both of the filters will
collect water at the bottom and can be drained from the bottom and
both are hooked up to the warning light for water in the filter
located on my dash.
>
> --
> Dave Knight
> dknig288@...
> Hook'em Horns 1969
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "Dean" <gains44@...>
>
> > My 1994 8.3 300hp Cummins has a nearly inaccessible fuel filter
mounted
> > on the passenger side of my DP. To access the filter I must lift
the
> > bed and the engine cover and carry wet fuel filters through
coach.
> >
> > I do have a fuel/water separator filter mounted near the rear
bumper
> > which is very convenient.
> >
> > What parts in addition to the fuel lines would I need to move the
small
> > fuel filter to a more accessible position?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Dean
> > 1995 CC Magna + Jeep GC
> >
> >
> >
> > --------------------------------------------
> > Off-topic posts will be removed.
> > Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the
RV model you
> > have.
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
> > Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Rid-X

Hi Chuck,

After Doug's last reply I doubt he is being serious. Either he is parked
alongside an outhouse or he is just having fun to see how far he can stretch
his BS remarks. Pun intended.

Fred Hengel

-------Original Message-------

From: Chuck & Mary Boros
Date: 01/19/08 11:33:03
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Rid-X

Doug,
6 MONTHS give or TAKE 170 DAYS??? Them ole Magna's must be built like a
brick S--- house to hold a tank that large. You probably meant 6 days,
unless your coach stays parked without use for a long time. He He just
kidding. Chuck B

Doug <doug66756@yahoo.com> wrote:
Hi Fred.
No, I ment the toilet. I flush the blank tank when it gets to the 3/4 mark.
Usually happens about every 6 mos, give or take.
DougC
'94 CC Magna
'03 Mini Hummer

test'; ">

---------------------------------
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now.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Rid-X

Doug,
6 MONTHS give or TAKE 170 DAYS??? Them ole Magna's must be built like a brick S--- house to hold a tank that large. You probably meant 6 days, unless your coach stays parked without use for a long time. He He just kidding. Chuck B

Doug <doug66756@yahoo.com> wrote:
Hi Fred.
No, I ment the toilet. I flush the blank tank when it gets to the 3/4 mark. Usually happens about every 6 mos, give or take.
DougC
'94 CC Magna
'03 Mini Hummer

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: What parts would be needed to install a remote fuel filter?

Hey Larry, good advice, a variation of which I already use. The real
problem is leaning down into the engine compartment and removing the
filter. Either my arms are too short, stomach is too big, or my
elbows are on backwards, but moving that filter would make my changes
much easier.

If it is just a matter of fuel lines and a new filter housing mounted
elsewhere, I could do it without paying for all the labor otherwise
required.

Dean

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "triker_38" <triker_38@...> wrote:
>
> When you take the wet filter out. Put it inside a 1 gal. zip lock
bag
> and seal it.
> Before you carry it through the coach.
> While you have the engine cover up doing that. It is also a good
time
> to check all the belts & maybe clean the radiator if you have a
rear
> one.
>
> Larry 99 Discovery 34Q + HD FXSTI
>
> --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "Dean" <gains44@> wrote:
> >
> > My 1994 8.3 300hp Cummins has a nearly inaccessible fuel filter
> mounted
> > on the passenger side of my DP. To access the filter I must lift
the
> > bed and the engine cover and carry wet fuel filters through coach.
> >
> > I do have a fuel/water separator filter mounted near the rear
bumper
> > which is very convenient.
> >
> > What parts in addition to the fuel lines would I need to move the
> small
> > fuel filter to a more accessible position?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Dean
> > 1995 CC Magna + Jeep GC
> >
>

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] What parts would be needed to install a remote fuel filter?

You would need the part that the filter "screws" into. I just had a remote filter kit installed on my 2002 8.3 at Cummins South. They moved my only filter to the back, added a second filter in front of the lift pump and provided all of the hoses. The hoses were expensive but, they are wrapped in a high temp protective fabric lookin stuff. They also provided the adapter at the engine where the fuel goes into it (where the old filter mounting was). Total cost was a little over $500.00 including parts and labor.

In response to your question, I guess that your would need the hoses (make sure they can withstand heat from the engine), an adapter where the old filter mount was located on the engine, another filter mount (for the new filter location (I don't know if the filter mount from the engine can be used or not -- I think they may have used that on my relocation -- the old one from the engine), and the necessary filter. If you work like me, my labor is very cheap. I could not do it as I had back surgery this past Fall. The filter setup they gave me was a regular filter in front of the lift pump (to catch large debris -- protecting the pump) and then after the lift pump a small particulate filter to protect the engine. Both of the filters will collect water at the bottom and can be drained from the bottom and both are hooked up to the warning light for water in the filter located on my dash.

--
Dave Knight
dknig288@comcast.net
Hook'em Horns 1969

-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Dean" <gains44@yahoo.com>

> My 1994 8.3 300hp Cummins has a nearly inaccessible fuel filter mounted
> on the passenger side of my DP. To access the filter I must lift the
> bed and the engine cover and carry wet fuel filters through coach.
>
> I do have a fuel/water separator filter mounted near the rear bumper
> which is very convenient.
>
> What parts in addition to the fuel lines would I need to move the small
> fuel filter to a more accessible position?
>
> Thanks
> Dean
> 1995 CC Magna + Jeep GC
>
>
>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Diesel-RVs] diesel mechanic question

Hi,
I am wondering if there is a diesel mechanic on the list
that would email me privately. I would really appreciate it.

Thanks
Diane

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[diesel_mercedes] Differential fluid

Make sure you all don't make my mistake.It caused a week of worry on
my part.
Check your diff. fluid outside.In the garage it looked like metal
flakes.So I bought a pump(because drain plug frozen) and pumped fluid
outside in 30 degree weather.The flakes were tiny air bubbles not
metal,but in a poorly lit garage looked like flakes.
But Oh well she has sync. 75-90 in her now,to cold here for 85-140.
Have a good weekend all. TN Cold Nate

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: What parts would be needed to install a remote fuel filter?

When you take the wet filter out. Put it inside a 1 gal. zip lock bag
and seal it.
Before you carry it through the coach.
While you have the engine cover up doing that. It is also a good time
to check all the belts & maybe clean the radiator if you have a rear
one.

Larry 99 Discovery 34Q + HD FXSTI

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "Dean" <gains44@...> wrote:
>
> My 1994 8.3 300hp Cummins has a nearly inaccessible fuel filter
mounted
> on the passenger side of my DP. To access the filter I must lift the
> bed and the engine cover and carry wet fuel filters through coach.
>
> I do have a fuel/water separator filter mounted near the rear bumper
> which is very convenient.
>
> What parts in addition to the fuel lines would I need to move the
small
> fuel filter to a more accessible position?
>
> Thanks
> Dean
> 1995 CC Magna + Jeep GC
>

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