I think the quicky fluid change shops like the vacuum and flush methods, as it's easier, and the amount of moron induced bent and leaky pans is reduced. For some reason our Volvo's fluid gets brown in less than 20K (volvo service interval), yet always shifts fine. I had it drained twice before, as it was pretty nasty. Maybe I shouldn't have pulled such a large trailer over the grapevine with it. My MB's fluid looks fine after 30K, except that one time the internals exploded....yet the even then the fluid was still red, though full of metal flakes.
Rob
'85 300D
Garden Grove, CA
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Mark in Lakewood, CO" <beeser750@...> wrote:
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>
>
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>
> Agreed with all that. If the torque convertor doesn't have a drain plug, then disconnect the line that feeds the transmission cooler (generally, the upper of the two lines at the radiator, or the one closest to the upper radiator hose), start the engine, and run about three to five quarts through there.
>
>
> No way I'd do the multiple fluid change, as suggested for the Honda Odyssey. The only good thing about that is you end up with a lot of relatively good used ATF, which can be burned in an ironhead diesel....
>
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> I'm not a big fan of "backflushing" or the "suck out and fill" procedures. It's better than nothing, I guess, but being able to drop and clean the pan has tremendous advantages. Like, replacing the filter.
>
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> Be aware that not all transmissions have a pan to remove. Mitsubishi's F4A, for instance, requires dropping the transaxle and splitting the case to access the "filter". (I use the term "filter" advisedly, as it will let large bits go by. Which wouldn't be such a problem, but for the fact that there's a wave ring in the F4A used behind the V6 engines that tends to break up and get sucked into the pump...:
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> http://www.transmissiondigest.com/tech/TD200508/200508ShiftPointers/200508ShiftPointers.htm
>
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> )
>
>
> Mark in Lakewood, CO
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aleph93" < aleph93@... >
> To: "diesel mercedes" < diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com >
> Sent: Saturday, February 18 , 2012 9:18:23 AM
> Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] how do you say quick? backflushing
>
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> Some remove the return trans cooler line, and drain it into a bucket
> while the car is running, while adding more fluid as you go. When the
> fluid looks all clean, shut it down and reconnect the line, check fluid
> level again. This is a popular method for Volvos. One Volvo parts
> company (IPD) makes a hose that attaches to the trans cooler, just for
> this purpose.
> http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4809/105310-automatic-transmission-flush-kit
>
> If you drain the pan and torque conv, you've drained out most of the fluid.
>
> Rob
> '85 300D
> Garden Grove, CA
> ==
>
> On 2/18/12 2:40 AM, diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com wrote:
> > Re: how do you say quick? backflushing
> > Posted by: "Alan Millar" grunthos503@... grunthos503
> > Date: Fri Feb 17, 2012 5:20 pm ((PST))
> >
> >> > Yea, what about this "backflushing" thing we hear about now. I am
> >> > fairly new to automatic transmissions. My Subaru is a auto and I'm wondering
> >> > about this in lew of changing the filter. Also isnt it true on some cars(most)
> >> > you can't even get all the old oil out of the trans. The Mercedes has a plug
> >> > to pull on the torque converter, so if we drain that and the pan do we get most
> >> > all out? But what about cars that dont have those drains? Max
> > I think it really varies from one make to the next. I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey van, which has a transmission drain plug (but not a filter!!). Despite having a drain plug, there are so many nooks and crannies in the A/T that draining it out by the plug only empties a little over half of the fluid.
> >
> > The official Honda procedure is to drain and fill, run it a little, and repeat three times. So at the end you have 7/8ths new fluid (or 15/16ths new fluid; I forget if you do three or four drains/refills). Seems like an odd design to me, but that's what is in the factory manual.
> >
> > - Alan
>
>
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