thank you too, alan bouchar>
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Re: replacing fuel lines on the 300sdl
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[diesel_mercedes] Re: replacing fuel lines on the 300sdl
Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Diesel purge. DUH! 83 240D.
Barry,
(Like Brian says.)
I think you are supposed to block off the fuel hose so no fuel gets to the engine. You then put the temporary fuel hose down to the bottom of the bottle and over to the input of the primary fuel filter.
(Caution - the primary fuel filter is the little rinky-dinky one that looks like someone picked it up Pep Boys. The big filter that looks like a real fuel filter that would be on a MB diesel, is the secondary fuel filter.)
Although the Diesel Purge goes through the system and is returned out the returns on the injectors and back to the bottle, so it will take a while to burn, no other fuel is being added so it should burn quickly, especially if you are revving the engine..
Bobby
On Mon, Jul 18, 2011 at 7:56 PM, Barry Edwards <duckn8r@me.com> wrote:
Today I ran a can, the page said that it would burn it up in about 15min, but it was pumping fuel
Though the engine and back in the jar after 30min. I turned it of changed the filters does anyone think my fuel pump may not be making enough pressure? After twenty min, I tryed vice grips on the cigar hose to slow down the flow but it still would get by and fill the jar will just keep
The same level in the jar, dose the pump build up pressure or dose it just flow though?
Sent from my iPad
--
Toward freedom,
Bobby Yates Emory
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Diesel purge. DUH! 83 240D.
Re read the instructions. BOTH the lines coming from the fuel tank should be plugged off (I use golf tees). The diesel purge should be recirculating until it is gone. Check Dieselgiants pictures.
brian from la verne, ca
From: Barry Edwards <duckn8r@me.com>
To: "diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 4:56 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Diesel purge. DUH! 83 240D.
Today I ran a can, the page said that it would burn it up in about 15min, but it was pumping fuel
Though the engine and back in the jar after 30min. I turned it of changed the filters does anyone think my fuel pump may not be making enough pressure? After twenty min, I tryed vice grips on the cigar hose to slow down the flow but it still would get by and fill the jar will just keep
The same level in the jar, dose the pump build up pressure or dose it just flow though?
Sent from my iPad
Though the engine and back in the jar after 30min. I turned it of changed the filters does anyone think my fuel pump may not be making enough pressure? After twenty min, I tryed vice grips on the cigar hose to slow down the flow but it still would get by and fill the jar will just keep
The same level in the jar, dose the pump build up pressure or dose it just flow though?
Sent from my iPad
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Porsche Revives the Passion
I'm surprised that the MB factory doesn't do similar rejuvenations.
thanks for posting.
--- On Mon, 7/18/11, Chip <czulli@gmail.com> wrote:
> From: Chip <czulli@gmail.com>
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Porsche Revives the Passion
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Monday, July 18, 2011, 11:43 AM
> Here is a pretty cool link where the
> Porsche Club of America apparently got Porsche factory to
> restore a 1972 911 T. The restored car is to be
> auctioned or raffled at the clubs annual meeting.
>
> You can look at these photo's and see pretty quickly why
> the factory does it best the first time.
>
> Now if MB would just take in my 1982 300 turbo for a once
> over, even if it is still in NC.
>
> Here is the link: http://www.wired.com/autopia/2011/07/porsche-revives-the-passion/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+wired%2Findex+%
>
> Chip
> Houston
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> diesel_mercedes-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Diesel purge. DUH! 83 240D.
Mark,
I think this is confusing. I think this product is made in Germany, but readily available in the USA.
At the top of the can, sometimes it says Liqui Moly and sometimes it says Lubro Moly. Always, it says Diesel Purge in the middle of the can.
Picture:
<http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/mediendb.nsf/gfx2/2005.jpg/$file/2005.jpg>
(Note that the URL says "Liqui" but the can says "Lubro".)
Product page:
<http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/us_2005.html?OpenDocument&land=US>
MSDS:
<http://www.chemical-check.de/clientversion/pdf1/956/2520LMUS_0013_15-06-2009_US.pdf>
(Note that the MSDS says it is made in Germany.)
Bobby
On Sun, Jul 17, 2011 at 8:39 AM, <beeser750@q.com> wrote:
"Diesel Purge" is a(n American) product:
http://www.dieselgiant.com/fueldeliveryanddieselinjectionrelated.htm#Basic%20Diesel%20Purge%20Kit
Scroll down past the nitrile gloves to find the 'Purge kits.
Note that Diesel Purge is NOT an additive, but a flushing agent. SO, follow this procedure EXACTLY:
http://www.dieselgiant.com/injectorcleaning.htm
Mark in Lakewood, CO
From: "Don M" <derekmathew@hotmail.com>
To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2011 4:27:49 PM
Subject: RE: [diesel_mercedes] Diesel purge. DUH! 83 240D.
To what diesel purge do you refer "the German kind"?
<>< Don
--
Toward freedom,
Bobby Yates Emory
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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Diesel purge. DUH! 83 240D.
Today I ran a can, the page said that it would burn it up in about 15min, but it was pumping fuel
Though the engine and back in the jar after 30min. I turned it of changed the filters does anyone think my fuel pump may not be making enough pressure? After twenty min, I tryed vice grips on the cigar hose to slow down the flow but it still would get by and fill the jar will just keep
The same level in the jar, dose the pump build up pressure or dose it just flow though?
Sent from my iPad
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[diesel_mercedes] Re: I have Google + Invites
Chip,
I'm already on Google+ - look me up: Joe Hupp!
Joe
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[diesel_mercedes] Re: replacing fuel lines on the 300sdl
wow, your job description is sheer poetry, such transparent directions; thank you very much...
i am curious, when splicing the two lengths of fuel line(both metal) do we go metal to rubber to metal, slip on and pipe clamps? or metal to metal? how would one splice metal lines? when going metal to metal, wouldn't one have to flare the line, male and female? also, i understand that where the rear metal lines meet the rubber lines it is all slip on and pipe clamps. what happens up front when the metal enters the engine compartment? it it metal right up to the injector pumps, and what type of fitting? metal to rubber to metal?
if the leak is so slow, would it make sense to wrap the line in something just to get the car home, so one does not dribble all the way, or, can one take a length of rubber to bypass rotted metal, again, just to get car home? how to get the air out of the new line? crankcrankcrank? i don't recall there being a hand pump on these models...
thanks again.
you too, bobby.
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Blaise Colasante <supervee03@...> wrote:
>
> The fuel supply line, return line & vent lines are all under the tank. There are
> rubber lines connected to the tubes coming out of the tank that are connected to
> steel lines using hose clamps. The steel lines run over the rear subframe along
> with the steel brake line coming to the rear wheels from the master cylinder.
> This is usually where the lines rust through and leak. Another place they tend
> to rust badly is where they pass through rubber supprt mounts that are metal
> bracketed to the floor pan under the vehicle. Replacement tubing in the proper
> diameter is available at most auto supply places and can be had in various
> lengths or in 25 foot coils. It is pretty easily formed by hand but I used a
> tubing bender to duplicate the bends in the original lines when I replaced them
> in my 1983 300D this winter. Although the brake line was not leaking I also
> replaced it as it was pretty badly rusted over the subframe where the fuel leak
> was. If you are replacing the brake line also you will need a flaring tool that
> can form an inverted or bubble flare to connect the lines to the master cylinder
> and the tee at the rear frame where the single line coming back from the master
> cylinder is divided into the lines that run to each rear brake caliper. The
> cheap AutoZone rental flaring tool didn't do an acceptable job for me so I ended
> up purchasing a very good flaring tool. Unless you have use for one I would try
> to have it done by a shop or borrow a tool. (This is for the brake line only.)
> If you have to do the brake line look carefully at the formed ends. The bubble
> flare is different than the single or double flare used on most other vehicles
> and the other types of flare are incompatible with bubble flare connections on
> the Mercedes master cylinder and tee block at the rear. The job wasn't very
> difficult. Just try to get the bends as close as possible to the original and be
> patient snaking the formed lines into the engine compartment & over the rear
> subframe. Using two lengths of fuel line & splicing them together would make the
> job easier.
> Blaise
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: griegiry <newdlhead@...>
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Mon, July 18, 2011 4:28:20 AM
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: replacing fuel lines on the 300sdl
>
>
> thanks bobby, i gather you are talking about the injector overflow lines? i
> believe this fellow means the tank to engine lines. and that she leaks under the
> trunk. but that he was told the tank is not bad. i gather i have to get to the
> top of the tank to disconnect the fuel line from the sender, or does she have a
> spout out her side? i vaguely remember an article where a tank was removed from
> an sd to facilitate a greasecar kit, does not look like a job for the faint of
> heart.
>
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: replacing fuel lines on the 300sdl
The fuel supply line, return line & vent lines are all under the tank. There are rubber lines connected to the tubes coming out of the tank that are connected to steel lines using hose clamps. The steel lines run over the rear subframe along with the steel brake line coming to the rear wheels from the master cylinder. This is usually where the lines rust through and leak. Another place they tend to rust badly is where they pass through rubber supprt mounts that are metal bracketed to the floor pan under the vehicle. Replacement tubing in the proper diameter is available at most auto supply places and can be had in various lengths or in 25 foot coils. It is pretty easily formed by hand but I used a tubing bender to duplicate the bends in the original lines when I replaced them in my 1983 300D this winter. Although the brake line was not leaking I also replaced it as it was pretty badly rusted over the subframe where the fuel leak was. If you are replacing the brake line also you will need a flaring tool that can form an inverted or bubble flare to connect the lines to the master cylinder and the tee at the rear frame where the single line coming back from the master cylinder is divided into the lines that run to each rear brake caliper. The cheap AutoZone rental flaring tool didn't do an acceptable job for me so I ended up purchasing a very good flaring tool. Unless you have use for one I would try to have it done by a shop or borrow a tool. (This is for the brake line only.) If you have to do the brake line look carefully at the formed ends. The bubble flare is different than the single or double flare used on most other vehicles and the other types of flare are incompatible with bubble flare connections on the Mercedes master cylinder and tee block at the rear. The job wasn't very difficult. Just try to get the bends as close as possible to the original and be patient snaking the formed lines into the engine compartment & over the rear subframe. Using two lengths of fuel line & splicing them together would make the job easier.
Blaise
From: griegiry <newdlhead@aol.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, July 18, 2011 4:28:20 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: replacing fuel lines on the 300sdl
thanks bobby, i gather you are talking about the injector overflow lines? i believe this fellow means the tank to engine lines. and that she leaks under the trunk. but that he was told the tank is not bad. i gather i have to get to the top of the tank to disconnect the fuel line from the sender, or does she have a spout out her side? i vaguely remember an article where a tank was removed from an sd to facilitate a greasecar kit, does not look like a job for the faint of heart.
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] I have Google + Invites
Chip
Yes I'd like an invite
From: Chip <czulli@gmail.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 5:27 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] I have Google + Invites
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 5:27 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] I have Google + Invites
Let me know if you are interested in getting one of these invites for Google +.
Chip
Houston
Chip
Houston
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] I have Google + Invites
Yes please Chip.
2011/7/18 Chip <czulli@gmail.com>
Let me know if you are interested in getting one of these invites for Google +.
Chip
Houston
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[diesel_mercedes] I have Google + Invites
Let me know if you are interested in getting one of these invites for Google +.
Chip
Houston
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[diesel_mercedes] Heavy
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