doug, What is the purpose of the freeze plug? where is it located?
Do I have one on my 300sd?
Thanks
Chuck
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Doug" <doug.traylor@...> wrote:
>
> OK, not reaching 80C on the MBs temp gage seems very wrong to me, mine runs even hotter during cold snaps here in Texas, almost reaches 100C which does not bother me at all, Diesels do not need to run cold. Designed to do that, due to the cold weather in Germany, I have talked to some Mercedes Diesel techs in Germany during vacations there.
>
> I would check the thermostat, maybe it is stuck open or missing, IE none installed, both can be a serious problem in the long run. Engines need to run at normal operating temps. Some people leave the thermostat out on purpose, thinking that its better an maybe help the engine not to overheat. Engines need to warm up at the designed rate, not fast or slower, that causes problems, some are long term problems an not easily detected tho.
>
> Thats a shade tree theory. IE, Leaving the thermostat out. Causes problems in most engines, common cause of camshaft failure in the best of GM gas engines, the Olds V8s of the 50s thru late 90s, aka Kettering Engine, also used by the Army as a tank an other vehicle engine.
>
> The Mercedes engines are designed by some top notch design engineers, its a fallacy to think we can improve on these engines by leaving out parts or listening too the parts being sold by aftermarket companies.
>
> One example is a glow plug kit, called an "upgrade kit", for our MB Diesels, but I think its asking for trouble, because with this kit, the glow plugs stay on much longer allowing the engine to run better cold, which serves only too think its ok to run at highway speeds with a cold engine, I mean it sounds good too most drivers, not too me tho, I hear sounds that indicate too me, its wrong, an hard on engine parts, especially the many bearings an bearing surfaces in the engine.
>
> Another common shade tree theory is altering the percentage of anti freeze to water ratio, most pro techs know the proper ratio, for their area of the country, according to the coldest ambient temp expected.
> For example here along the Gulf Coast of Texas, an this is GM spec for gas an Diesels, we use the -06 Degrees F as a rule of thumb, but many use a simpler 50 / 50 % mix as a rule, which sometimes does cause problems. One has too remember the chill factor too, an many people leave their cars outside, even with the grill, radiator towards the wind.
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> I do not like the pre mix sold now days, they are not mixed very accurately, have seen some tests on them, often failed testing, too much water, but of course that increases their bottom line, IE profits, water is cheap.
>
> No doubt some people use the wrong anti freeze for the MBs, maybe save a buck or two, using off brand products, maybe wrong type,,then experience expensive repairs later, down the road, maybe a water pump or radiator replacement far too early in the wear cycle.
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> While on the topic, I do strongly believe in a product called BARS Leak, thats a brand name, not a generic name, used it since the 1950s in customers an my personal cars, have faith in that brand name, as its served me well over the years.
>
> Another fallacy,, running NO ANTIFREEZE,, at all, proper antifreeze mix needs to be used year round an changed out every two years, FLUSH,, an small bottle of Bars Leaks added too. Prestone products have been great for many years, antifreeze, testers, flush kits, flush chemicals all work well if used as directions indicate.
>
> Now let me touch on Freeze plugs, they commonly fail, but some count on them to always work, well, not even OE or even Dorman work well, most of the time it because of improper installation, or failure too properly maintain the cooling system. Cracked engine blocks from overheating or freezing up are common, an destroys expensive engines.
>
> I have priced used MB Diesel engines here in the Houston area, hard to find, an expensive too, about 3K is common, except from an individual who does not know the value of those engines,. Who knows what you will get either, maybe worn out an basically junk for high dollar.
>
> OK, last topic, strongly urge you guys to get a long skinny car rear view mirror for your tool box, it works well with a small flashlight, to check the weep hole on the bottom of the water pump for leaking, should do this evertime you change oil an filter or under the hood for other service an/or repairs.
>
> OK now for the guy with the sick Detroit, liner packs are available for those engines,, to repair busted, ruined individual cylinders, thats a complete cylinder liner, with piston an rod already installed, makes it simple an less expensive to repair a Detroit, pretty easy actually, just lots of hard work, I have done that up to even V 16s such as the 149 series, 556, an others too, that is the number of cubic inches per cylinder, used as a series number.
> Use the genuine Detroit parts, the made in China junk will waste your time an money, make you mad too. Just make sure the crankshaft is not damaged, or the engine block. I have repaired some major block damage tho, even thrown rods, thru the block side, an damaged cam bearing bores too.
> Doug
>
