[diesel_mercedes] Re: How to replace ignition in 1980 300 TD With key still working.

 

You must leave the tumbler out to replace the ignition.  10mm nut on band alignment somewhat critical.  Went back in smooth.  You must press the steering lock in and press the release pin at the same time and it locks in place and you can then put it in.  Align the lock with the opening. You must align and twist anti theft ring with tumbler and key and the paper clip  just so or the key won't turn.  Will replace speedometer tomorrow and try to start.  Lawrence Rhodes......

From: Lawrence Rhodes <primobassoon@sbcglobal.net>
To: "diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2013 5:32 PM
Subject: How to replace ignition in 1980 300 TD With key still working.

Turns out there are several tricks to getting the old ignition out. First at the first sign of seizure replace it and don't turn the ignition off. There are plenty of videos on how to get a stuck ignition out.  But if you are lucky enough to be able to turn the ignition one last time it is sooooo easy.  My model has one hole at about 11 o'clock. What ever you do don't turn off the ignition.  Put the pin in.  Try to push down until you feel a spring action.  Click the ignition back and forth I'm not sure which position but you will find it.  Then unscrew the black tamper preventer.  The tumbler will come out.  Loosen the 10 mm clamp that locks the ignition to the steering column.  Take off the electrical connections.  A two pin and the large black connector on the back.  Take out the speedometer.  You must depress a pin which is 2 and a half inches down the shaft.  When you get your new ignition you will see how it works.  When the pin is depressed(it only sticks out an eighth of an inch or less)  the ignition/steering lock will move out a bit till it hits the dash.  Then spin a half turn and it will slide out.  Take off the electrical parts and install on the new ignition.  The two pin switch is really hard to get out.  I used a dremel tool to cut it out.  It was still working.  I haven't put it back in but I'm sure it's a lot easier than taking it out.  I put the tumbler back in but it might not spin in easily with the tumbler installed.  I'm going to find out.  Lawrence Rhodes...


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Will seats from 86 300SDL fit my 83 300SD?

 

An update for anyone interested...

Turns out the seller is on the list, so I met up with Rodger and we had a bit of an adventure with the seats.

The rear seat in his SDL was indeed the motorized kind, and the bottom of the seat bolts in, whereas my 83 SD take clips. The current backseat also does not clip in properly as it's from a W123 and the spacing is different.

We thought we had the driver's seat figured out, but it was not to be. The bolts lined up just fine, but the wiring was a few inches too short. Rodger gave me a quick intro to splicing wires, so that I could follow up with that later, but when I went to snap the seatbelt in place, it wouldn't fit. The "tongue" end from my SD seemed too big or a different shape and didn't snap into the "receiving" end from the 86 SDL. I wonder if the seatbelts are original to the 300SD.

So Rodger instead, very generously, repaired my two broken springs on my current driver's seat (from a W123 seats, and blue while my interior is brown) so I had a MUCH comfier ride home.

I had a great time being in newbie mode and picking his brain for my upcoming projects...and he sent me away with a great solution for capturing my coolant when I do my drain n fill.

THANK YOU RODGER!

Caitlin in Santa Fe,
1983 300SD

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Kraly <kevinpaddler@...> wrote:
>
> The front seats will fit, but you may have to rewire the plugs if it has the memory seats. The rear seats will fit also as long as they aren't the optional reclining seats which won't fit into a short wheelbase 126 chassis.
> Kevin from Laporte Colorado who wishes he still had his '83 300SD
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 4, 2013, at 7:01 PM, "CaitlinDean" <tinymachine@...> wrote:
>
> > Hi folks...I am still here, and now that some life things are calming down its time to get back to work on ole Betty.
> >
> > Saw some seats for sale nearby on CL. They are from a 86 300SDL W126. I have a 83 300SD W126. The current seats I have appear to be from a W123 and arent in great shape and the rear doesn't even seem to be properly installed. The price on these are good so I am wondering if they are a fit.
> >
> > Thank you!
> > Caitlin in Santa Fe
> > 83 300SD
> >
> >
>

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[diesel_mercedes] How to replace ignition in 1980 300 TD With key still working.

 

Turns out there are several tricks to getting the old ignition out. First at the first sign of seizure replace it and don't turn the ignition off. There are plenty of videos on how to get a stuck ignition out.  But if you are lucky enough to be able to turn the ignition one last time it is sooooo easy.  My model has one hole at about 11 o'clock. What ever you do don't turn off the ignition.  Put the pin in.  Try to push down until you feel a spring action.  Click the ignition back and forth I'm not sure which position but you will find it.  Then unscrew the black tamper preventer.  The tumbler will come out.  Loosen the 10 mm clamp that locks the ignition to the steering column.  Take off the electrical connections.  A two pin and the large black connector on the back.  Take out the speedometer.  You must depress a pin which is 2 and a half inches down the shaft.  When you get your new ignition you will see how it works.  When the pin is depressed(it only sticks out an eighth of an inch or less)  the ignition/steering lock will move out a bit till it hits the dash.  Then spin a half turn and it will slide out.  Take off the electrical parts and install on the new ignition.  The two pin switch is really hard to get out.  I used a dremel tool to cut it out.  It was still working.  I haven't put it back in but I'm sure it's a lot easier than taking it out.  I put the tumbler back in but it might not spin in easily with the tumbler installed.  I'm going to find out.  Lawrence Rhodes...

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Fuel Economy Check 1984 300CD Auto

 

I have used -0- gallons in Martha and Mary during the month of July as I am carless in Seattle (actually in Puyallup), but will be back August 01 so I can wash both cars and hit the road again

 
brian from laverne, ca
Mary (195K)  Martha (280K)
1983 w123 300d's

From: Nate <vwnate1@yahoo.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2013 10:52 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Fuel Economy Check 1984 300CD Auto

 

AC used , 270 miles , 21.4 MPG's .

The intake screen looks clean , I added Startron anway .

-Nate



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[diesel_mercedes] Fuel Economy Check 1984 300CD Auto

 


AC used , 270 miles , 21.4 MPG's .

The intake screen looks clean , I added Startron anway .

-Nate

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: HVA/C blower problem

 


Not really sure ;

My blower worked fine and dandy except when it didn't , then it began to not want to run on the low speed where I like it .

So , being nosy I took it all apart and found it not only filthy (normal for any air flow device) but the brushes were only like 4 MM long and the commutator was toast~ it's worn at a 45° angle so I know my new brush kit from Mercedes Source is but a band aid repair .

Once I get a bit caught up in my other works (front end rebuild , two engines , routine stuff too) I'll grab Tom and take a P-A-P tour and find one in better shape , maybe even a low use replacement one .

In general , you will always find the highest wear part , the first to fail so I'd look at the blower motor .

-Nate
Rob wrote :
>
> No, I haven't changed out the brushes. What are the signs of bad brushes?
> My blower seems to work fine at all speeds, then nothing, pointing to
> the controller.
> Thanks
>
> Rob
>
>
> On 7/26/13 3:34 AM, diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com wrote:
> > HVA/C blower problem cured?
> > Posted by: "Nate"vwnate1@... vwnate1
> > Date: Thu Jul 25, 2013 2:48 pm ((PDT))
> >
> >
> > Have you yet replaced the blower motor's brushes ? .
> >
> > -Nate
> > Rob wrote :
> >> >
> >> >I spoke too soon. There were more issues w/ the A/C controller, in the form of intermittent air blowing, so I swapped out with one from the PAP, which seems to work fine now. If more issues arise, I might splurge on the new one from the MB Classic Center.
> >> >
> >> >I haven't got to the MB turbo yet, as I've been working on my Wife's 240DL Volvo, which now has new suspension all around W/ springs, Bil HDs, alloys, etc. Very nice.
> >> >
> >> >Rob
> >> >
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re : Fuel knock

 


The injector spray pattern test sounds like the next step , maybe get the Zone Manager involved ? .

Or , see how much $ the indie shop wants to do it .

Is an " Italian Tuneup " out of the question ? .

-Nate
Pete wrote :
>
> I have recently acquired a 2007 R320 V-6 diesel (non-bluetec). It's a
> CPO car with factory warranty for the next year, so I'm pretty much tied
> to dealer services until then. Motor runs perfectly, except under
> light-to-moderate load it seems to be exhibiting some fuel knock on 1
> (maybe 2) cylinders. It's not horrible, but the sound is definitely
> noticeable above the regular background diesel sounds. During my search
> for this car I drove several others, and other than the normal low-end
> diesel sound, none of them had excessive fuel knock.
>
> I've taken it to the dealer twice for this. They reflashed the ECU with
> the latest software update, recalibrated the injectors, electronically
> did an injector balance and compression tests, and declared everything
> "normal". The knock is slightly better after all this, but still quite
> noticeable. So far, the dealer has declined to remove the injectors for
> spray pattern evaluation, which I did ask for.
>
> I'm not sure how I should escalate the issue at this point. I'm
> considering a 2nd opinion from an independent Mercedes shop, and then
> submitting it to Mercedes customer care for review. Other than the
> annoyance, my main concern is about any long-term damage from a bad
> injector / spray pattern.
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice or information...
>
> Pete.
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: HVA/C blower problem cured?

 

No, I haven't changed out the brushes. What are the signs of bad brushes?
My blower seems to work fine at all speeds, then nothing, pointing to
the controller.
Thanks

Rob

On 7/26/13 3:34 AM, diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com wrote:
> HVA/C blower problem cured?
> Posted by: "Nate"vwnate1@yahoo.com vwnate1
> Date: Thu Jul 25, 2013 2:48 pm ((PDT))
>
>
> Have you yet replaced the blower motor's brushes ? .
>
> -Nate
> Rob wrote :
>> >
>> >I spoke too soon. There were more issues w/ the A/C controller, in the form of intermittent air blowing, so I swapped out with one from the PAP, which seems to work fine now. If more issues arise, I might splurge on the new one from the MB Classic Center.
>> >
>> >I haven't got to the MB turbo yet, as I've been working on my Wife's 240DL Volvo, which now has new suspension all around W/ springs, Bil HDs, alloys, etc. Very nice.
>> >
>> >Rob
>> >

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Re : Veggie Oil KILLS Diesel Engines

 

I cold filtered to get out the animals fats which when cold clog filters.I didn't heat my fuel as heating and reheating fuel is bad.I only heated before injectors,and injection pump.
 
 
Tennessee Nate

From: n61cm <jim@tazwade.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2013 7:10 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Re : Veggie Oil KILLS Diesel Engines
 
The problem with anecdotal evidence is that there is no control or scientific method. I think centrifuge, cold-filtering through old blue jeans, etc. is just a waste of time and money and such a mess, I ain't doing it. If I choose my fuel and reject the obviously dirty or water-laden, then use a paint strainer to get the big chunks out, then run it through a 7 micron filter element in a water separating filter, and keep my injectors clean, well, that oughta do it.

Jim

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Re : Veggie Oil KILLS Diesel Engines

 

The problem with anecdotal evidence is that there is no control or scientific method. I think centrifuge, cold-filtering through old blue jeans, etc. is just a waste of time and money and such a mess, I ain't doing it. If I choose my fuel and reject the obviously dirty or water-laden, then use a paint strainer to get the big chunks out, then run it through a 7 micron filter element in a water separating filter, and keep my injectors clean, well, that oughta do it.

Jim

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