craigslist, same car, add has different content.
300d grey market
https://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/5405220167.html
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shit. 83 300d. the guy doesn't even mention it is a grey market german version turbo diesel with roll up windows and euro bumpers.
https://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/5405218855.html
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https://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/5341135297.html
Is that the rod-bender engine or is that engine designation mean it was replaced with the older engine? i;m not interested in this vehicle, this, so if anyone can get around the title issue, go get em.
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Max ;
I use it off and on , I prefer the 10W 40 just because but thinner oils work better and most importantly get up out of the sump and circulating faster so they help prevent engine wear , 90 % of which occurs at initial startup , why over the road engines outlast city use engines.....
Pretty much _any_ modern , multi - viscosity DIESEL RATED oil is orders of magantude better than the Din based crap these engines were designed to run on....
Different brands but wallmart tends to have the best pricing on gallons of Diesel rated oil .
I personally don't like to shop @ wallmart unless it's an emergency or I'm traveling .
-Nate
Max wrote :Anyone use 5W-40 Mobil1 Turbo Diesel oil year round? I saw off road diesel for$ 1.39 yesterday. This is the first time in years diesel is less than regular. On road is about .10 less than reg.. MaxOn Thu, Jan 1
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Friday morning Tom and I hopped into my Sidel Sports Coupe and headed off to Hesperia , Ca. where my friend Rich taught me several new things including how to time the IP .
As it turns out my I still has a lot of dirty crud in it making this near impossible but we were able to make a significant improvement , I now have at least average take off and accelerating power , the scored marks between the mounting flange of the IP and the engine block were close to 1/8" mis aligned , in timing this is a bad as a mile .
Judging by Tom's gritted teeth and white knuckle grip on the " oh , NO ! " handle on the way back (I didn't exceed 85
MPH , honest) I'd say the improvement is noticeable .
I no longer need to go with the flow in traffic , I can easily get into the fast lane and slice and dice with the rest as is right and proper .
I can hardly wait until I get some empty Desert highway and se what the top end is 
.
We removed the IP's # 1 delivery valve and spring , I saw lots of dirt and miniature chunks in there so I am not surprised the valve is now slightly weeping , I'm off to chase parts and will address this soon and report in better detail .
-Nate
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So I was having loss of power issues...changed the fuel filter first, then replaced the gasket on the intake thing because the old one was basically non existent and was pulling too much air into the engine. I was all excited about putting that back all by myself and went to start it up and the battery seemed low. I charged it. The next day I tried to start it again. Battery low. Charged it again and tried to start it up without letting it sit too long and the dash lit up but when i pulled my choke out it was completely dead....no lights, no revs, nothing....I am pretty sure the battery is ok. Had it checked not that long ago....short in the wiring? or what? GRRRR I just wanna drive it :(
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Max ;
I use it off and on , I prefer the 10W 40 just because but thinner oils work better and most importantly get up out of the sump and circulating faster so they help prevent engine wear , 90 % of which occurs at initial startup , why over the road engines outlast city use engines.....
Pretty much _any_ modern , multi - viscosity DIESEL RATED oil is orders of magantude better than the Din based crap these engines were designed to run on....
On Thu, Jan 1
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445 miles , 27 MPG , Silver bottle Diesel Kleen used .
NO AC use , mixed city and highway driving .
-Nate
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Any solutions to New Hampshire cold weather and door locks freezing?
Over the last few years, the drivers door lock has been freezing. I
can't get the key in. If I spend some time, I can thaw it with my bare
hands, holding on to the metal area around the look and repeatedly
taking the key out, warming it and reinserting it. The passenger side
is also difficult, but not as bad.
I've tried the graphite spray, and other lock deicers. I have covered
the lock access, and gaps between the door handle and door with silicone
grease to seal it. Still froze up last week.
Carl in NH
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So I was having loss of power issues...changed the fuel filter first, then replaced the gasket on the intake thing because the old one was basically non existent and was pulling too much air into the engine. I was all excited about putting that back all by myself and went to start it up and the battery seemed low. I charged it. The next day I tried to start it again. Battery low. Charged it again and tried to start it up without letting it sit too long and the dash lit up but when i pulled my choke out it was completely dead....no lights, no revs, nothing....I am pretty sure the battery is ok. Had it checked not that long ago....short in the wiring? or what? GRRRR I just wanna drive it :(
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