In 1985, I completely tore down to nuts and bolts a 1966 Plymouth Sport Fury convertible, and shot it with Sherwin Williams Sunfire, a two-component, single-stage urethane. The paint still looks great. Two years later, I used the same product on a 1973 SAAB Sonett III, and that paint still looks good, too. Then, I did a number of cars using PPG Deltron/Delthane, a two-component, two-stage urethane. I've decided I really don't like it, especially when compared to the way the Sunfire has held up over the many years. I've done a few DuPont Centauri jobs, but, I don't much care for DuPont products, either. (I'll admit at least some of my bias is because of DuPont's General Motors connections as a shareholder and supplier. Which is really rather silly on my part....)
I agree with Alan, that shooting the color is really the least of any body/paint job. At least 80% of any paint job is repairing dents and rust, shooting primers and sealers, and sanding, sanding, sanding.... That's where all the labor and associated costs come in, so, I'll second his suggestion to do all the dirty, uncelebrated prep-work, and find someone with a good gun and facility to shoot colors. (Which, unfortunately, is also the funnest and most rewarding part of the job.)
Mark in Lakewood, CO
1979 300SD (Deperately crying out for a new paint job....)
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
From: tccservice111@yahoo.com
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2011 23:59:22 +0000
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Paint able to stand up to 500 degrees
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Nate Rector <tccservice111@...> wrote:
>
>
> Hey All.
>
> Getting mixed info.I want a 10 year paint,with no lifting peeling.The minuim coats please.
> I'm tring to dothis on $600 max including compressor used?,paint gun,tape,ect..
>
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