[diesel_mercedes] Re: Having trouble 3 > 4 Upshift

 


Thanx ! .

-Nate
Mark wrote:
>
> That band is ooooonly used for reverse. There are two other bands in the 722.00 to 722.03 (non-overdrive, four- and six-bolt pan) transmissions; the way to adjust the operational play in these bands is to swap out a little shaft where the band is anchored to the case. These shafts are available in various lengths.
>
> On these, and nearly all other automatic transmissions, the highest gear is achieved by way of clutch packs, with all bands released.
>
> Mark in Lakewood, CO
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Nate" <vwnate1@...>
> To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 9:36:50 AM
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Having trouble 3 > 4 Upshift
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Mark ;
>
> What about the front band adjustment ? the one with the weird bolt that snaps off ? .
>
> I've not yet done this but several Indie M-B Mechanics have told me I should do it to keep the tranny in proper tune and shifting well .
>
> -Nate
> Mark wrote:
> >
> > What year is the SD? Does the oil pan have four bolts, or six bolts? ('81 and up should have the six-bolt pan transmission.)
> >
> > At the transmission dipstick, is the fluid pink, red/dark red, or brown? Does it have a burnt smell? Is it at the proper level (checked when the car is fully warmed up)?
> >
> > When was the last time the fluid/filter have been changed?
> >
> > Depending on the answers to these questions, you may need to drop the pan and check for any large amounts of debris. There really isn't anything to adjust on these transmissions for the forward gears, outside of the vacuum modulator and kick-down linkage, which would adjust only the timing and quality of the shifts, not the ability to shift.
> >
> > Usually, a failure to shift into the top gear is caused by front clutch failure; either by a burned out clutch pack or a blown piston seal. A transmission shop can check the operation of the clutch pack by applying air pressure to the passageway from the valve body that the feeds the piston. (You can do this yourself, if you have access to compressed air, and know where to apply the pressure....)
> >
> > Mark in Lakewood, CO
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "terryt_97" <terrytan@>
> > To: "diesel mercedes" < diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com >
> > Sent: Saturday, October 8, 2011 9:22:02 AM
> > Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Having trouble getting into drive mode
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Am experiencing shift to drive mode. Checked all vacuum lines.
> > 300SD with 245K shifts into 2nd and 3rd normally but stays on 3rd and will not shift to fourth or drive. Is there any adjusments or do I need to change transmission fluid ? Thanks for any help.
> >
>

__._,_.___
Recent Activity:
MARKETPLACE

Stay on top of your group activity without leaving the page you're on - Get the Yahoo! Toolbar now.

.

__,_._,___
No comments:

[diesel_mercedes] Re: Water

 


Alan, what does inside the cowl mean? My next step is do take off the screens under the wipers, and look there. Is this the right approach?

Thanks

Chuck

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Alan Boucher <alstheone@...> wrote:
>
> On 10/9/2011 6:26 PM, c24052000 wrote:
> >
> > Let's just call this topic water. After replacing the a/c drain tube,
> > which per the pictures needed to be replaced. Once again after a rain
> > storm, I have water in the rear left seat footwell. Took apart all the
> > floor mats, and the panels in the front. There is water on the upper
> > panel which is under the steering column. The panel with the curve in
> > the middle.
> >
> > ran water in the drains and the water goes out below the car, very
> > slight dripping. Ran water around the sunroof, did not notice any
> > leaks then. I am thinking it might be the front window rubber seals.
> > What should I put there? Nothing, replace the seals. Silicone.
> > Some other sealant?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Chuck
> > 1984 300sd 262000, and not counting because the odometer stopped a
> > month ago.
> >
> >
> One other potential leak source is inside the cowl under the vents
> around the wipers. There may be some info in the system about this.
>

__._,_.___
Recent Activity:
MARKETPLACE

Stay on top of your group activity without leaving the page you're on - Get the Yahoo! Toolbar now.

.

__,_._,___
No comments:

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Brakes

 

On 10/9/2011 5:56 PM, Mark in Lakewood, CO wrote:

 
Well, not DOT 5, as that is the silicone brake fluid.  Unless you do a thorough flush, using 95% or better isopropyl alcohol (and often replacing all the rubber bits in the system), NEVER use DOT 5.

Modern DOT 3 or DOT 4 is fine.  I like the synthetic fluids now available.

There most most certainly ARE bleeder screws on those calipers.  Unless, someone has snapped them off....

Mark in Lakewood, CO
From: "Nate Rector" <tccservice111@yahoo.com>
To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 2:55:02 PM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Brakes

 
Dot 4 or higher.

From: Carmine <drnickv@sbcglobal.net>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 3:59 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Brakes

 
Dear enthusiasts

I have a 84 300D. working on the front brakes. had rotors turned, installing new pads. We had also planned on flushing brake system and adding new fluid.

1. What kind of brake fluid is required?

2. No brake bleeders? What the heck is that. Have never seen such a thing in my life. How do you flush system or bleed the brakes? Book seemed a bit unclear.

3. boots in the calipers are starting to crack just like the rest of the rubber on the car. How are these to rebuild? Prices for new ones are a bit more than we want to spend.

thanks, Nick



The problem I had with silicone fluid years ago on a Lancia was that some agent was added to the theoretically inert silicone to cause the rubber brake pats to expand enough to seal..  Of course on the Lancia it caused way too much swedlling and jambed the master cylinder and the brake cylinders.

__._,_.___
Recent Activity:
MARKETPLACE

Stay on top of your group activity without leaving the page you're on - Get the Yahoo! Toolbar now.

.

__,_._,___
No comments:

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Water

 

On 10/9/2011 6:26 PM, c24052000 wrote:

 

Let's just call this topic water. After replacing the a/c drain tube, which per the pictures needed to be replaced. Once again after a rain storm, I have water in the rear left seat footwell. Took apart all the floor mats, and the panels in the front. There is water on the upper panel which is under the steering column. The panel with the curve in the middle.

ran water in the drains and the water goes out below the car, very slight dripping. Ran water around the sunroof, did not notice any leaks then. I am thinking it might be the front window rubber seals.
What should I put there? Nothing, replace the seals. Silicone.
Some other sealant?

Thanks

Chuck
1984 300sd 262000, and not counting because the odometer stopped a month ago.

One other potential leak source is inside the cowl under the vents around the wipers.  There may be some info in the system about this.

__._,_.___
Recent Activity:
MARKETPLACE

Stay on top of your group activity without leaving the page you're on - Get the Yahoo! Toolbar now.

.

__,_._,___
No comments:

[diesel_mercedes] Water

 

Let's just call this topic water. After replacing the a/c drain tube, which per the pictures needed to be replaced. Once again after a rain storm, I have water in the rear left seat footwell. Took apart all the floor mats, and the panels in the front. There is water on the upper panel which is under the steering column. The panel with the curve in the middle.

ran water in the drains and the water goes out below the car, very slight dripping. Ran water around the sunroof, did not notice any leaks then. I am thinking it might be the front window rubber seals.
What should I put there? Nothing, replace the seals. Silicone.
Some other sealant?

Thanks

Chuck
1984 300sd 262000, and not counting because the odometer stopped a month ago.

__._,_.___
Recent Activity:
MARKETPLACE

Stay on top of your group activity without leaving the page you're on - Get the Yahoo! Toolbar now.

.

__,_._,___
No comments:

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Brakes

 

Well, not DOT 5, as that is the silicone brake fluid.  Unless you do a thorough flush, using 95% or better isopropyl alcohol (and often replacing all the rubber bits in the system), NEVER use DOT 5.

Modern DOT 3 or DOT 4 is fine.  I like the synthetic fluids now available.

There most most certainly ARE bleeder screws on those calipers.  Unless, someone has snapped them off....

Mark in Lakewood, CO
From: "Nate Rector" <tccservice111@yahoo.com>
To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 2:55:02 PM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Brakes

 

Dot 4 or higher.

From: Carmine <drnickv@sbcglobal.net>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 3:59 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Brakes

 
Dear enthusiasts

I have a 84 300D. working on the front brakes. had rotors turned, installing new pads. We had also planned on flushing brake system and adding new fluid.

1. What kind of brake fluid is required?

2. No brake bleeders? What the heck is that. Have never seen such a thing in my life. How do you flush system or bleed the brakes? Book seemed a bit unclear.

3. boots in the calipers are starting to crack just like the rest of the rubber on the car. How are these to rebuild? Prices for new ones are a bit more than we want to spend.

thanks, Nick



__._,_.___
Recent Activity:
MARKETPLACE

Stay on top of your group activity without leaving the page you're on - Get the Yahoo! Toolbar now.

.

__,_._,___
No comments:

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Having trouble 3 > 4 Upshift

 

That band is ooooonly used for reverse.  There are two other bands in the 722.00 to 722.03 (non-overdrive, four- and six-bolt pan) transmissions; the way to adjust the operational play in these bands is to swap out a little shaft where the band is anchored to the case.  These shafts are available in various lengths.

On these, and nearly all other automatic transmissions, the highest gear is achieved by way of clutch packs, with all bands released.

Mark in Lakewood, CO
From: "Nate" <vwnate1@yahoo.com>
To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 9:36:50 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Having trouble 3 > 4 Upshift

 


Mark ;

What about the front band adjustment ? the one with the weird bolt that snaps off ? .

I've not yet done this but several Indie M-B Mechanics have told me I should do it to keep the tranny in proper tune and shifting well .

-Nate
Mark wrote:
>
> What year is the SD? Does the oil pan have four bolts, or six bolts? ('81 and up should have the six-bolt pan transmission.)
>
> At the transmission dipstick, is the fluid pink, red/dark red, or brown? Does it have a burnt smell? Is it at the proper level (checked when the car is fully warmed up)?
>
> When was the last time the fluid/filter have been changed?
>
> Depending on the answers to these questions, you may need to drop the pan and check for any large amounts of debris. There really isn't anything to adjust on these transmissions for the forward gears, outside of the vacuum modulator and kick-down linkage, which would adjust only the timing and quality of the shifts, not the ability to shift.
>
> Usually, a failure to shift into the top gear is caused by front clutch failure; either by a burned out clutch pack or a blown piston seal. A transmission shop can check the operation of the clutch pack by applying air pressure to the passageway from the valve body that the feeds the piston. (You can do this yourself, if you have access to compressed air, and know where to apply the pressure....)
>
> Mark in Lakewood, CO
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "terryt_97" <terrytan@...>
> To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 8, 2011 9:22:02 AM
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Having trouble getting into drive mode
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Am experiencing shift to drive mode. Checked all vacuum lines.
> 300SD with 245K shifts into 2nd and 3rd normally but stays on 3rd and will not shift to fourth or drive. Is there any adjusments or do I need to change transmission fluid ? Thanks for any help.
>

__._,_.___
Recent Activity:
MARKETPLACE

Stay on top of your group activity without leaving the page you're on - Get the Yahoo! Toolbar now.

.

__,_._,___
No comments:

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Brakes

 

Dot 4 or higher.

From: Carmine <drnickv@sbcglobal.net>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 3:59 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Brakes

 
Dear enthusiasts

I have a 84 300D. working on the front brakes. had rotors turned, installing new pads. We had also planned on flushing brake system and adding new fluid.

1. What kind of brake fluid is required?

2. No brake bleeders? What the heck is that. Have never seen such a thing in my life. How do you flush system or bleed the brakes? Book seemed a bit unclear.

3. boots in the calipers are starting to crack just like the rest of the rubber on the car. How are these to rebuild? Prices for new ones are a bit more than we want to spend.

thanks, Nick



__._,_.___
Recent Activity:
MARKETPLACE

Stay on top of your group activity without leaving the page you're on - Get the Yahoo! Toolbar now.

.

__,_._,___
No comments:

[diesel_mercedes] Brakes

 

Dear enthusiasts

I have a 84 300D. working on the front brakes. had rotors turned, installing new pads. We had also planned on flushing brake system and adding new fluid.

1. What kind of brake fluid is required?

2. No brake bleeders? What the heck is that. Have never seen such a thing in my life. How do you flush system or bleed the brakes? Book seemed a bit unclear.

3. boots in the calipers are starting to crack just like the rest of the rubber on the car. How are these to rebuild? Prices for new ones are a bit more than we want to spend.

thanks, Nick

__._,_.___
Recent Activity:
MARKETPLACE

Stay on top of your group activity without leaving the page you're on - Get the Yahoo! Toolbar now.

.

__,_._,___
No comments:

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Having trouble getting into drive mode

 

What year of SD300? (different tranny in '85 CA models)
When was it last serviced?

Best check the easy stuff 1st:
Trans fluid level
Trans fluid condition, red & clean, or brown, smells burnt, metal flakes???
Shift linkage, is it really in drive, or is something loose and thus
only looks like it's in drive?

If everything seems normal you may need to drain a bit from the pan, to
see if there's metal flakes.

Rob
'85 300D
Garden grove, CA
==

On 10/9/11 1:07 AM, diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com wrote:
> Having trouble getting into drive mode
> Posted by: "terryt_97"terrytan@earthlink.net terryt_97
> Date: Sat Oct 8, 2011 8:22 am ((PDT))
>
> Am experiencing shift to drive mode. Checked all vacuum lines.
> 300SD with 245K shifts into 2nd and 3rd normally but stays on 3rd and will not shift to fourth or drive. Is there any adjusments or do I need to change transmission fluid ? Thanks for any help.
>
>
>

__._,_.___
Recent Activity:
MARKETPLACE

Stay on top of your group activity without leaving the page you're on - Get the Yahoo! Toolbar now.

.

__,_._,___
No comments:

[diesel_mercedes] Re: Having trouble 3 > 4 Upshift

 


Mark ;

What about the front band adjustment ? the one with the weird bolt that snaps off ? .

I've not yet done this but several Indie M-B Mechanics have told me I should do it to keep the tranny in proper tune and shifting well .

-Nate
Mark wrote:
>
> What year is the SD? Does the oil pan have four bolts, or six bolts? ('81 and up should have the six-bolt pan transmission.)
>
> At the transmission dipstick, is the fluid pink, red/dark red, or brown? Does it have a burnt smell? Is it at the proper level (checked when the car is fully warmed up)?
>
> When was the last time the fluid/filter have been changed?
>
> Depending on the answers to these questions, you may need to drop the pan and check for any large amounts of debris. There really isn't anything to adjust on these transmissions for the forward gears, outside of the vacuum modulator and kick-down linkage, which would adjust only the timing and quality of the shifts, not the ability to shift.
>
> Usually, a failure to shift into the top gear is caused by front clutch failure; either by a burned out clutch pack or a blown piston seal. A transmission shop can check the operation of the clutch pack by applying air pressure to the passageway from the valve body that the feeds the piston. (You can do this yourself, if you have access to compressed air, and know where to apply the pressure....)
>
> Mark in Lakewood, CO
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "terryt_97" <terrytan@...>
> To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 8, 2011 9:22:02 AM
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Having trouble getting into drive mode
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Am experiencing shift to drive mode. Checked all vacuum lines.
> 300SD with 245K shifts into 2nd and 3rd normally but stays on 3rd and will not shift to fourth or drive. Is there any adjusments or do I need to change transmission fluid ? Thanks for any help.
>

__._,_.___
Recent Activity:
MARKETPLACE

Stay on top of your group activity without leaving the page you're on - Get the Yahoo! Toolbar now.

.

__,_._,___
No comments:
Subscribe to: Posts (Atom)