Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: replaced the windshield seal.

 

    Yah,  It'll get so easy and normal, you'll be popping the windshield and back window out every time you want to wash & wax the car.  Just to avoid getting wax on the glass. 
 
Tom 
 
In a message dated 4/5/2013 3:02:24 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, vwnate1@yahoo.com writes:
 


Nah ;

The first time when you're nervous , it seems hard but once you get it , it's like riding s bicycle .

-Nate
Jim wrote :
>
> Wow, that sounds incredibly tedious. I don't think I could do that.
>
> Jim
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, diyernh <diyernh@> wrote:
> >
> > You need to remove the windshield, then clean off any sealant left on
> > the frame. Add a 3/8" window rope seal into the corner of the frame,
> > mash it down to fillet in the corner. Put the new seal on the
> > windshield while it's out of the car. I used duct tape to hold the seal
> > to the window. On the outside of the seal, there is a lip that will be
> > stretched over the inside metal window frame. I put a lubricated 1/4"
> > cotton rope in there, two times around. Lift the window/seal into
> > place. Inside the car, you pull the rope in, which lifts the seal over
> > the frame. Gently push on the seal/window from the outside. No extra
> > hard force! If anything, you are just pushing the windshield down to
> > avoid the rope/seal from moving the window away from where it is pulling.
> >
> > Trim work: 3 small phillips hold the front of the drip rail. Put duct
> > tape in the hole in the fender if you drop a screw. A piece of wood and
> > mallet will tap the trim upwards along the roof. You don't need to
> > remove the entire trim, just push up about a foot or so until the front
> > end can be pulled out of the fender. Pad the loose end and tape it
> > down. You will probably bump it while working on the window. It will
> > scratch your paint.
> >
> > The aluminum trim around the window can be pried out slowly with a large
> > blade or screwdriver. Lubricate it before reinstalling. It can be
> > tapped in with a 2x4 and mallet.
> >
> > On 4/1/2013 7:23 AM, n61cm wrote:
> > >
> > > Do you have to take the window out to do this job? Or do you just cut
> > > out the seal and put in a new one without removing the window?
> > >
> > > Jim
> > >
> > > --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:diesel_mercedes%40yahoogroups.com>, diyernh <diyernh@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > '84 300d. Just finished installing the windshield seal. Wasn't that
> > > > bad of a job. The old seal cut out nicely. The new one went in easily.
> > > >
> > > > The worst thing is the mental scars that my daughter has. Everyone
> > > > recommended KY personal lubricant for the cotton cord. It's water based
> > > > and doesn't get sticky. She was a little grossed out.
> > > >
> > > > The 3/8" sealant caulking definitely needed to be pushed flat into the
> > > > corner. If you don't push it in far enough, the windshield won't fit
> > > nicely.
> > > >
> > > > I had tried sealing the old seal with flowable silicone. That was a
> > > > waste of time, the seal was brittle and cracked. It still leaked.
> > > >
> > > > I hope this eliminates the swimming pool in the back floorboard. I have
> > > > the back window seal ready for the next project.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Carl
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Odometer problems

 

Hello all,

I purchased a 1983 MB 300 turbo diesel about a week ago. The car had 194,900 miles on it when I bought it. As I was driving the car the odometer stopped working when it hit 195,000 miles (precisely). Both the odometer and the trip odometer. I can push the reset button on the trip odometer and it will work for about a mile or so, as does the odometer. In a 42 mile commute I racked up about 10 miles by doing this.

One thing that I did that may have an impact was I was trying to adjust the dash lights (same knob) and may have turned it too far. The knob did pop off in my hand as well as the spring, but I just had to press it back on. May be unrelated since it went 50 miles after that before stopping to work.

Any ideas of what is happening and if I can fix it?

Thanks

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: W123 Wagon Rear hatch window

 


Try cheapautoglass. whatever....

-Nate
, "lucybleu_22" <cccarton@...> wrote:
>
> Well I just broke the rear window out of my wife '85 wagon by accident trying to load a water heater to sell used for $40. What a drag. Anyhow anyone know where to get one, central east coast or as close to Maryland as possible, or maybe an online site.
>
> Thanks for any help. It sure would help me get out of the dog house.
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re : LED Lamp Question

 


Tell you what Tom :

You but four # 1157 and four # 1156 LED lamps and try 'em out , if you don't like 'em , I'll buy 'em including the fright charges and use in my old truck , Ural Motos etc. , no loss to you either way .

Tom's question has to do with the transitorized turn signal flashers out Mercedes' all use ~ LED's likely won't draw sufficient current to make it flash , I don't care I can use them in my stuff .

-Nate
Tom wrote :
>
> Tom,
>
> I have an entirely different question for you.
>
> I recently replace the left rear light assembly on my 1981 300SD. I
> found a good, uncracked one on a 560 SEL in the Monrovia PaP yard. I
> brought it home, took the lens off the plastic frame, washed it thoroughly,
> washed the lamp housing, let it all dry completely.
>
> After reassembly, and installation of all new bulbs, it fit into my
> car perfectly, as only a 32 year old Mercedes part can.
>
> But while putting in the new bulbs, I started wondering about LEDs.
> We are getting superbrite LEDs now that have almost the same light output as
> an incandescent bulb, but at a much lower current draw.
>
> I wonder whether we can use LED bulbs in the turn signals. I know
> that some turn signal activators, particularly "of a certain age" (as we say
> of beautiful women and machines), required enough current draw from the
> bulbs to activate.
>
> Are the turn signal activators in 123 and 126 series cars able to
> operate with the low current draw of LEDs? Considering the price of LED bulbs
> still, I am not excited enough to test them out on my own. But I just know
> that you folks at the Classic Center will either know the answer, or know
> who in Stuttgart to get the answer from.
>
> Cordially,
> The other Tom: '81 300SD, 37+,+++ miles
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Windshield & Backlight Grommets & LEAKS

 


I cannot stress how important it is si use the proper grommets here ~ I've been doing Salvage - reconstruct as well as leak ingress diagnosis and repair for 40 + years now and nothing beats the German OEM rubber ~ yes it co$t$ literally a couple Dollars more but it's wort it in both the ease of installation and the subsequent lack of leaks .

For non German vehicles , use Steele Rubber , they have a tricky but very good OnLine catalog , all rubber is MADE IN AMERICA to boot .

-Nate
Tom wrote :
>
> good advice, Nate. We have good deals on the genuine weatherstripping for whoever needs it.
>
>
> Tom Hanson
> Mercedes Benz Classic Center USA
> MBUSA, LLC
> thomas.hanson@...
> 949 598-4842 direct
> 949 598-4870 fax
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Nate <vwnate1@...>
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, April 1, 2013 8:02 PM
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Windshield & Backlight Grommet
>
>  
>
> The proper way to do this is :
>
> # 1 first & foremost , BUY AN OEM Mercedes grommet ! .
>
> Get a carpet knife with several extra new blades and slowly and carefully cut the rubber away from the glass by inserting it 90° to the glass where the glass meets the edge of the rubber grommet and draw it along , the knife won't want to travel in a straight line , that's fine , let it pop out and begin again , in time you'll have strips of rubber peeling off , keep doing this without pressing on the inside of the glass nor the delicate trim ~
>
> After a while most of the exterior rubber will be gone , tip the knife in at an angle and keep cutting the rubber away until the glass is loose in the body ~ it takes time but your time is *much* cheaper than the glass , even a used one .
>
> Once the glass is loose from the rubber , lift it out and cut away the rubber between the trim and the glass ~ NEVER pull on the trim , it'll *instantly* bend .
>
> Once the glass and rubber are apart , gently use a *new* (! only !) single edge razor blade to scrape the last bits of rubber away but DO NOT clean the edges of the windshield .
>
> Get a work bench , I use an inverted trash can with old carpet on it , flip the windshield upside down and look at the rubber until you find the seal where the ends are joined ~ this goes in the dead center of the top of the glass , you have to work it over the edge
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: replaced the windshield seal.

 


Nah ;

The first time when you're nervous , it seems hard but once you get it , it's like riding s bicycle .

-Nate
Jim wrote :
>
> Wow, that sounds incredibly tedious. I don't think I could do that.
>
> Jim
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, diyernh <diyernh@> wrote:
> >
> > You need to remove the windshield, then clean off any sealant left on
> > the frame. Add a 3/8" window rope seal into the corner of the frame,
> > mash it down to fillet in the corner. Put the new seal on the
> > windshield while it's out of the car. I used duct tape to hold the seal
> > to the window. On the outside of the seal, there is a lip that will be
> > stretched over the inside metal window frame. I put a lubricated 1/4"
> > cotton rope in there, two times around. Lift the window/seal into
> > place. Inside the car, you pull the rope in, which lifts the seal over
> > the frame. Gently push on the seal/window from the outside. No extra
> > hard force! If anything, you are just pushing the windshield down to
> > avoid the rope/seal from moving the window away from where it is pulling.
> >
> > Trim work: 3 small phillips hold the front of the drip rail. Put duct
> > tape in the hole in the fender if you drop a screw. A piece of wood and
> > mallet will tap the trim upwards along the roof. You don't need to
> > remove the entire trim, just push up about a foot or so until the front
> > end can be pulled out of the fender. Pad the loose end and tape it
> > down. You will probably bump it while working on the window. It will
> > scratch your paint.
> >
> > The aluminum trim around the window can be pried out slowly with a large
> > blade or screwdriver. Lubricate it before reinstalling. It can be
> > tapped in with a 2x4 and mallet.
> >
> > On 4/1/2013 7:23 AM, n61cm wrote:
> > >
> > > Do you have to take the window out to do this job? Or do you just cut
> > > out the seal and put in a new one without removing the window?
> > >
> > > Jim
> > >
> > > --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:diesel_mercedes%40yahoogroups.com>, diyernh <diyernh@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > '84 300d. Just finished installing the windshield seal. Wasn't that
> > > > bad of a job. The old seal cut out nicely. The new one went in easily.
> > > >
> > > > The worst thing is the mental scars that my daughter has. Everyone
> > > > recommended KY personal lubricant for the cotton cord. It's water based
> > > > and doesn't get sticky. She was a little grossed out.
> > > >
> > > > The 3/8" sealant caulking definitely needed to be pushed flat into the
> > > > corner. If you don't push it in far enough, the windshield won't fit
> > > nicely.
> > > >
> > > > I had tried sealing the old seal with flowable silicone. That was a
> > > > waste of time, the seal was brittle and cracked. It still leaked.
> > > >
> > > > I hope this eliminates the swimming pool in the back floorboard. I have
> > > > the back window seal ready for the next project.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Carl
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: 1998 300 Diesel

 

Thanks Nate.  Caskets are the only thing I know of that are sealed forever.  I have a trans dipstick for my sprinter and I run everything on Mobil 1.


On Fri, Apr 5, 2013 at 8:50 AM, Yahoo! Member Service <tccservice111@yahoo.com> wrote:
 

change tranny fluid and filter.Alot were called sealed for life.Buy a trans dipstick,use MB fluid or Mobil One syntheic. There are chips you can buy to increase HP,and top end,and mpg.
 
 
Tennessee Nate
From: Chip <czulli@gmail.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, April 5, 2013 7:56 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: 1998 300 Diesel
 


--- In mailto:diesel_mercedes%40yahoogroups.com, Alan Boucher <alstheone@...> wrote:
>
> Looking at a 160,000 mi car. Are there any known problems with this model?
>
> Al Boucher
>
It has no vaccum door lock system, heaters tend to be operational and transmissions often shift with no flairing.

Chip
Houston


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: 1998 300 Diesel

 

Thanks, Chip, I'm still leaning towards 85 300D or SD, but I'll look at the 98.


On Fri, Apr 5, 2013 at 7:56 AM, Chip <czulli@gmail.com> wrote:
 



--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Alan Boucher <alstheone@...> wrote:
>
> Looking at a 160,000 mi car. Are there any known problems with this model?
>
> Al Boucher
>
It has no vaccum door lock system, heaters tend to be operational and transmissions often shift with no flairing.

Chip
Houston


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: 1998 300 Diesel

 

change tranny fluid and filter.Alot were called sealed for life.Buy a trans dipstick,use MB fluid or Mobil One syntheic. There are chips you can buy to increase HP,and top end,and mpg.
 
 
Tennessee Nate
From: Chip <czulli@gmail.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, April 5, 2013 7:56 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: 1998 300 Diesel
 


--- In mailto:diesel_mercedes%40yahoogroups.com, Alan Boucher <alstheone@...> wrote:
>
> Looking at a 160,000 mi car. Are there any known problems with this model?
>
> Al Boucher
>
It has no vaccum door lock system, heaters tend to be operational and transmissions often shift with no flairing.

Chip
Houston

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 1998 300 Diesel

 



--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Alan Boucher <alstheone@...> wrote:
>
> Looking at a 160,000 mi car. Are there any known problems with this model?
>
> Al Boucher
>
It has no vaccum door lock system, heaters tend to be operational and transmissions often shift with no flairing.

Chip
Houston

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