Re: [diesel_mercedes] Interesting headlight problem

 

No. the low beam has a higher resistance than the high beam. If the ground is out or bad then the power will try to find a ground through the lower resistance high beam filament. The high beam is a lower resistance and looks more like a wire than a resistor. So the bulk of the energy will be burnt up in the high resistance low beam. And since both filaments on that side are now in series along with the high beam filament on the other side, before a ground is found there will not be much current flow and only the high resistance low beam will glow. And it will glow dim.
Bogy

--- On Mon, 11/21/11, dntaskwy@aol.com <dntaskwy@aol.com> wrote:

From: dntaskwy@aol.com <dntaskwy@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Interesting headlight problem
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, November 21, 2011, 5:12 PM



In a message dated 11/21/2011 4:06:22 P.M. Central Standard Time, tccservice111@yahoo.com writes:
maybe bad ground
That's my thinking, too.... but then wouldn't the headlight go bright when he measured the voltage?  That got me thinking it could be bad contacts in the socket.
 

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Interesting headlight problem

 

CHECK YOUR GROUND

--- On Mon, 11/21/11, Alan Boucher <alstheone@verizon.net> wrote:

From: Alan Boucher <alstheone@verizon.net>
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Interesting headlight problem
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, November 21, 2011, 3:41 PM

My 300D seemed to have one headlight out.  This is a euro conversion
with replaceable bulbs.  Its been running with these lights for about 3
years.  I checked the bulb - both filaments ok.  I turned on the
Headlights - low beam with driving light switch in off position.  The
lights are lit somewhat dimly and the voltage on the low beam side of
the headlight socket  reads about 3 volts and that filament glows
dimly.  On high beams I have 12 volts and a bright bulb with the driving
lights off.  I'm thinking its the switch but haven't had time to check
further.  Does anyone have a confirmation or other suggestion?

Al Boucher

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Tachometer Amplifier...Cigarette Butt Bust

 

Well, tachometers are a constant PIA. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. Sometimes mechanical, sometimes electrical. Mine are what I call "intermittent" performers. One of the last things I will try to cure again, and again, and again.
 
brian from la verne, ca
From: CaitlinDean <tinymachine@gmail.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 6:36 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Tachometer Amplifier...Cigarette Butt Bust
 
I have a bouncy tachometer and one of the things that seems to work for people (at least temporarily) is the "cigarette butt trick" where you put the filter end of a cigarette inside the housing to provide pressure on the loose contacts.

Well, I found a cigarette butt (who knew THAT would come in "handy"?) while removing the console (scary stuff down there) parts to get them clean and remove switches etc. So I thought I'd give it a try, but no luck.

My tach barely registers AT ALL now. So I guess my options now are:

1) PAP find (wish me luck!)
2) and/or ground the cluster ($10 for a grounding cable shipped, or DIY)
3) $54 shipped electronic tach amp http://mbelectronicupgrades.com/Tachometer_Amp.html
4) used on eBay (currently one for $90+s/h)
5) new @ $135 (or higher)

I'm not having much luck lately...here's to that changing...

Caitlin
Santa Fe



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[diesel_mercedes] Tachometer Amplifier...Cigarette Butt Bust

 

I have a bouncy tachometer and one of the things that seems to work for people (at least temporarily) is the "cigarette butt trick" where you put the filter end of a cigarette inside the housing to provide pressure on the loose contacts.

Well, I found a cigarette butt (who knew THAT would come in "handy"?) while removing the console (scary stuff down there) parts to get them clean and remove switches etc. So I thought I'd give it a try, but no luck.

My tach barely registers AT ALL now. So I guess my options now are:

1) PAP find (wish me luck!)
2) and/or ground the cluster ($10 for a grounding cable shipped, or DIY)
3) $54 shipped electronic tach amp http://mbelectronicupgrades.com/Tachometer_Amp.html
4) used on eBay (currently one for $90+s/h)
5) new @ $135 (or higher)

I'm not having much luck lately...here's to that changing...

Caitlin
Santa Fe

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Signals and Hazards Don't Blink

 

Stan is spot on. Sometimes the bulbs look good, but are really bad. I had no tail light last week so when I was at the PAP I fixed that (grabbed bulbs and changed in the parking lot)
 
brian from la verne, ca
From: Stan George <ssgkag@frontier.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 3:00 PM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Signals and Hazards Don't Blink
 
On 11/21/2011 2:47 PM, CaitlinDean wrote:
> the arrows in the cluster light up, the exterior lights also light,
> but neither "blink".

Usually means not enough current draw to operate the bi-metal flasher.
Could be incorrect hook up but on my car it usually means one of the
exterior bulbs is burnt out or a bad ground. Did you have the flasher
unit disconnected. All connectors back in the correct place.

--
Stan George Portland <<


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Signals and Hazards Don't Blink

 

I'm pretty sure I've got some bad grounds...or just one wreaking havoc all over ;)

All the bulbs are working. I am just putting it back the way I found it, which is no guarantee of "correct". I'll have to look into the flasher unit, just left it as is...merely unhooked the hazard switch, cleaned, re-installed as I found it. I'm still flying without a manual (and I'm an auto-newbie)...hoping to fix that at Christmas time :)

Thanks for the ideas...I'll keep digging!
Caitlin
Santa Fe

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Stan George <ssgkag@...> wrote:
>
> On 11/21/2011 2:47 PM, CaitlinDean wrote:
> > the arrows in the cluster light up, the exterior lights also light,
> > but neither "blink".
>
>
> Usually means not enough current draw to operate the bi-metal flasher.
> Could be incorrect hook up but on my car it usually means one of the
> exterior bulbs is burnt out or a bad ground. Did you have the flasher
> unit disconnected. All connectors back in the correct place.
>
> --
> Stan George Portland <<
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Interesting headlight problem

 

Just to say, check your fuses first. The highs and lows and side to side run off different fuses, and one could be goosey.
 
brian from la verne, ca
From: Alan Boucher <alstheone@verizon.net>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 12:41 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Interesting headlight problem
 
My 300D seemed to have one headlight out. This is a euro conversion
with replaceable bulbs. Its been running with these lights for about 3
years. I checked the bulb - both filaments ok. I turned on the
Headlights - low beam with driving light switch in off position. The
lights are lit somewhat dimly and the voltage on the low beam side of
the headlight socket reads about 3 volts and that filament glows
dimly. On high beams I have 12 volts and a bright bulb with the driving
lights off. I'm thinking its the switch but haven't had time to check
further. Does anyone have a confirmation or other suggestion?

Al Boucher



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Signals and Hazards Don't Blink

 

On 11/21/2011 2:47 PM, CaitlinDean wrote:
> the arrows in the cluster light up, the exterior lights also light,
> but neither "blink".

Usually means not enough current draw to operate the bi-metal flasher.
Could be incorrect hook up but on my car it usually means one of the
exterior bulbs is burnt out or a bad ground. Did you have the flasher
unit disconnected. All connectors back in the correct place.

--
Stan George Portland <<

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[diesel_mercedes] Signals and Hazards Don't Blink

 

I cleaned and re-installed the hazard switch in my 83 300SD. The switch didn't seem very dirty or corroded at all, but I still used a pencil eraser on the contacts and an eensy dab of dielectric grease on each as well.

My problem still exists...when I use the turn signals or the hazard, the arrows in the cluster light up, the exterior lights also light, but neither "blink".

There's a chance things inside the switch slipped during re-assembly, so I can re-check that. I'm waiting on (and losing hope) a replacement from the PO.

Other than replacing this switch (which I'm happy to spend $ on if it fixes my problem, I've found some around $10 on eBay if I can't locate one from my one local PAP), are there any other ideas as to what causes this? All my research said to replace the switch...but since the one I took apart *looked* to be in decent shape, and cleaning didn't seem to fix it, I'm wondering about other possible causes.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Caitlin
Santa Fe

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Interesting headlight problem

 

Check the ground!!!!! Corrosion.
--
Stan George Portland <<

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 83 300SD Aftermarket Radio Removal?

 

Yeah, can't say as I'm attached to this Alpine ;) so I think a radio is on my wishlist. Maybe I'll score at a PAP like Brian! But until then, I'll keep this one wired up...I don't even have sound in one of my speakers :(

Caitlin
Santa Fe

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
>
> I just remove the ashtray then the two # 2 Phillips screws holding in the ash tray bracket , gently remove it and unplug it's wires , then I reach up behind the radio and shove / wiggle until it begins to slide out of the dash , aftermarket radios are always a friction slip fit , makes them easier to steal I guess .
>
> One it's out , make note of what color wires connects to what and toss it in the dust bin , go buy a nice original Becker Electronic and play the same godawful music , louder & clearer too.....
>
> -Nate
> Caitlin wrote:
> >
> > Hi folks, I'm still trying to get to my hazard switch and am stuck at the aftermarket Alpine radio.
> >
> > I went to Walmart and PepBoys and they both have $15 "kits" but I either just want the cheapo tools themselves OR some nifty thrifty DIY solution.
> >
> > Someone mentioned hacksaw blades somewhere on the internet...but I don't have those either ;) Without a good visual, I can't picture how these are in there, therefore I can't come up with something on my own.
> >
> > Any recommendations?
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Caitlin
> > Santa Fe
> >
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Interesting headlight problem

 

On 11/21/2011 5:12 PM, dntaskwy@aol.com wrote:

 

In a message dated 11/21/2011 4:06:22 P.M. Central Standard Time, tccservice111@yahoo.com writes:
maybe bad ground
That's my thinking, too.... but then wouldn't the headlight go bright when he measured the voltage?  That got me thinking it could be bad contacts in the socket.
I measured the voltage without the bulb in the socket .  The low beam read about 3 volts and the bulb when inserted glowed dimly.  The high beam measured 12 volts and the bulb when inserted glowed brightly.  On low beam with the driving lights shut off they still glowed dimly. switching to high beams shut the driving lights off as it should and the High beams were bright.  There is a cross feed somewhere and the switch seems the most likely point.  I just wondered if there was another cause I hadn't considered.

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