Re: [diesel_mercedes] 123 neutral safety switch

 

It's likely the switch plug got pulled loose. But it may be an adjustment.

Try this:   While keeping the key in the start position with one hand, move the tranny lever down through the positions. it may want to start as you pass through the neutral area. if that happens then it is likely an adjustment issue for the starting problem. If the backup lights worked before and don't now then it could be the plug on the switch got loose, down at the tranny itself.

Bogy.


On Thursday, December 26, 2013 3:44 PM, Andrew <okldboy@yahoo.com> wrote:
Hi all

Good afternoon.  Earlier this week I replaced the shifter bushings (two) on my 82 300D, and after re-assembling everything, the car will not start in any gear.  Glow plug light etc comes on but then nothing happens except a single click when I turn the ignition to start.  Headlights do not dim.  I believe this is the neutral safety switch as the reverse lights no longer work.  I must have damaged or moved it somehow.  I can install a new switch, but does anyone know if there is a way to adjust the switch or further diagnose what happened?  Happy to just replace it but am afraid the problem will continue if something is out of adjustments.


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Glow Plug relay

 

Bud:

When you plugged the relay back in it behaved as if it was just turned on by the ignition key and began to heat the plugs. Had you given it a few seconds it would have, or at least should have, kicked off and the voltage would have risen back to the idling voltage. If it was me I would chase the alternator because I think your new regulator has failed.

I believe you can disconnect the alternator at the junction block on the right inner fender well. There should be two 'heavy' red cloth covered wires. Some models have them go from the alternator to the starter and then up to the junction block and some go right to the junction block from the alternator. Disconnect them and then attach them to a load like a headlight. Then measure the voltage. If it is still 12.?? volts then the regulator has failed. If it is up to 14.? volts then you have a heavy load or wiring problem.

Just to put it in perspective, one of those heavy wires goes right to the glow plug relay as supply power for the plugs. The other heavy wire goes to the light switch and from there supplies the entire rest of the car. In other words - the glow plugs pull as much as, or more than, the current used by the whole rest of the car.

COLD glow plugs pull upwards of 75 amps for the pencil type. That quickly drops as the plugs warm up. But that initial load  can drop the battery voltage a volt or two. If you disconnect the glow plugs and the voltage rises up to 14.5 volts then you have a GP relay issue. But you have to disconnect the plug with the heavy wires at the glow plug relay. It's the bigger of the two plugs.

Alternatively, you could place a 60 or 80 amp meter between the two heavy red wires and the junction block. Give it 15 minutes to allow for battery charging. A "lot" of current (40 to 80 Amps) flowing during those 15 minutes is the alternator charging the battery. If you only get a few amps or no amps during that 15 minutes then your alternator is bad. But if the current stays maxed out at 40 to 80 amps then you have a wiring problem. If it never goes up you have an alternator/regulator problem.

But your description of the problem sounds more like a failed regulator/alternator to me.

You could pull the alternator and have it tested. But Autozone and checker can't do it. You will have to take it to an auto electric guy or maybe NAPA or such.

This is just my two cents.
But FWIW, I am an electrical engineer.
Bogy.




On Thursday, December 26, 2013 7:43 PM, diyernh <diyernh@comcast.net> wrote:


Make sure you check your alternator belt.

That drove me insane a few years ago.  My  300D didn't squeal when the belt slipped.  It just slowly lost battery charging power.   New alternator, checking for slow leakes etc.  I changed the belt and everything is great.

Carl


On 12/26/2013 4:10 PM, Bud S wrote:
 
I've been having charging issues.  The PO said it was the voltage regulator, he had one on order when I bought the car, so he gave it to me when it came in.  It's a Vemo(NAPA) VR.  I installed it and sure enough I was getting if I remember correctly 14.5V or there abouts, previous to that the battery was at about 12.6.

Fast forward, I've been stranded a couple of times, got a jump from people, so I started bugging out wires.  I just finished starting the car today, the voltage dropped from 12.75 to 12.4v, revved the engine, nothing different.

Pulled the glow plug relay wires (5 pin connector), no change, started pulling the fuses and have the list but essentially with everything out, voltage is 12.6, revving yields nothing more.

Now the fun part, put the fuses back in, back to 12.4V, then the 5 pin connector to the GP relay, drops it to 11.8V.

I think the GP relay must be sticking.

PO also told me he replaced the glow plugs.  I'm wondering if the relay sticks and keeps them on, would it cause the voltage regulator to fail?

Also noticed that without the 5 pin connector installed the temp gauge does not work.  Install the connector and the gauge reads normal.

Before I install an aftermarket relay with a push button switch to bypass the MB relay, I wanted to run my findings by the list.

Thanks,
Bud





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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Glow Plug relay

 

Make sure you check your alternator belt.

That drove me insane a few years ago.  My  300D didn't squeal when the belt slipped.  It just slowly lost battery charging power.   New alternator, checking for slow leakes etc.  I changed the belt and everything is great.

Carl


On 12/26/2013 4:10 PM, Bud S wrote:

 
I've been having charging issues.  The PO said it was the voltage regulator, he had one on order when I bought the car, so he gave it to me when it came in.  It's a Vemo(NAPA) VR.  I installed it and sure enough I was getting if I remember correctly 14.5V or there abouts, previous to that the battery was at about 12.6.

Fast forward, I've been stranded a couple of times, got a jump from people, so I started bugging out wires.  I just finished starting the car today, the voltage dropped from 12.75 to 12.4v, revved the engine, nothing different.

Pulled the glow plug relay wires (5 pin connector), no change, started pulling the fuses and have the list but essentially with everything out, voltage is 12.6, revving yields nothing more.

Now the fun part, put the fuses back in, back to 12.4V, then the 5 pin connector to the GP relay, drops it to 11.8V.

I think the GP relay must be sticking.

PO also told me he replaced the glow plugs.  I'm wondering if the relay sticks and keeps them on, would it cause the voltage regulator to fail?

Also noticed that without the 5 pin connector installed the temp gauge does not work.  Install the connector and the gauge reads normal.

Before I install an aftermarket relay with a push button switch to bypass the MB relay, I wanted to run my findings by the list.

Thanks,
Bud

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Rear shocks on a 300TD 1980 model

 

If the shocks don't leak, your problem is the nitrogen spheres and not the shocks. Don't get these from the aftermarket. Big waste of money and good uck getting a refund.
 
Tom Hanson
Mercedes Benz Classic Center USA
MBUSA, LLC
thomas.hanson@mbusa.com
949 598-4842 direct

From: Lawrence Rhodes <primobassoon@sbcglobal.net>
To: "diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 25, 2013 9:06 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Rear shocks on a 300TD 1980 model

 
I pushed on the rear of my TD and it bounced 7 times.  Looks like it is time for new shocks.  I also notice bad effects when hitting bumps in the road.  Not fun.  So I went to Autohaus AZ and bought the OEM rear shocks.  There is a set for cars without the auto leveling system.  Question is how do I access the shocks for replacement? I've never done it before.  Lawrence Rhodes


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[diesel_mercedes] 123 neutral safety switch

 

Hi all

Good afternoon. Earlier this week I replaced the shifter bushings (two) on my 82 300D, and after re-assembling everything, the car will not start in any gear. Glow plug light etc comes on but then nothing happens except a single click when I turn the ignition to start. Headlights do not dim. I believe this is the neutral safety switch as the reverse lights no longer work. I must have damaged or moved it somehow. I can install a new switch, but does anyone know if there is a way to adjust the switch or further diagnose what happened? Happy to just replace it but am afraid the problem will continue if something is out of adjustments.

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[diesel_mercedes] Glow Plug relay

 

I've been having charging issues.  The PO said it was the voltage regulator, he had one on order when I bought the car, so he gave it to me when it came in.  It's a Vemo(NAPA) VR.  I installed it and sure enough I was getting if I remember correctly 14.5V or there abouts, previous to that the battery was at about 12.6.

Fast forward, I've been stranded a couple of times, got a jump from people, so I started bugging out wires.  I just finished starting the car today, the voltage dropped from 12.75 to 12.4v, revved the engine, nothing different.

Pulled the glow plug relay wires (5 pin connector), no change, started pulling the fuses and have the list but essentially with everything out, voltage is 12.6, revving yields nothing more.

Now the fun part, put the fuses back in, back to 12.4V, then the 5 pin connector to the GP relay, drops it to 11.8V.

I think the GP relay must be sticking.

PO also told me he replaced the glow plugs.  I'm wondering if the relay sticks and keeps them on, would it cause the voltage regulator to fail?

Also noticed that without the 5 pin connector installed the temp gauge does not work.  Install the connector and the gauge reads normal.

Before I install an aftermarket relay with a push button switch to bypass the MB relay, I wanted to run my findings by the list.

Thanks,
Bud
http://www.rhinocat.com/cvaf4u/

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Re: Rear shocks on a 300TD 1980 model

 

Lift the carpet that is just behind the rear seatbacks. It is the forward most carpet of the rear compartment deck. There will be a 2 or 3 inch, square plastic cap that you have to remove to get to the pressure fitting. And, IIRC, there is a bolt in a spherical or cup-shaped recess that is the upper attach point for the body of the ram. This piece of carpet is held in place by 3 or so small screws. You will probably have to look for them. First time I worked on mine I had to pull the tire and look at the ram and figure out where it would be on the inside. From there on, it was a pretty straightforward game of take-it-apart-till-you-find-the-bolt.

Bogy.



On Thursday, December 26, 2013 7:05 AM, "corvallis@peoplepc.com" <corvallis@peoplepc.com> wrote:


http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/eurotec/2012-03-09_135929_removal_and_installation_of_rear_axle_spring_struts.pdf
 
Does this help? Bill in Oregon
From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Lawrence R hodes
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2013 5:43 AM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] R e: R e: R ear shocks on a 300TD 1980 model
 
What no one can tell me is how to access the top of the shock in a 300TD.  The station wagon is different from the sedan or coupe.  I've heard something about screws hidden under carpet.   Lawrence R hodes




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RE: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Re: Rear shocks on a 300TD 1980 model

 

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/eurotec/2012-03-09_135929_removal_and_installation_of_rear_axle_spring_struts.pdf

 

Does this help? Bill in Oregon

From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lawrence Rhodes
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2013 5:43 AM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Re: Rear shocks on a 300TD 1980 model

 

What no one can tell me is how to access the top of the shock in a 300TD.  The station wagon is different from the sedan or coupe.  I've heard something about screws hidden under carpet.  Lawrence Rhodes

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Re: Rear shocks on a 300TD 1980 model

 

What no one can tell me is how to access the top of the shock in a 300TD.  The station wagon is different from the sedan or coupe.  I've heard something about screws hidden under carpet.  Lawrence Rhodes

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