Re: [diesel_mercedes] my 2 cents on headlights. toothpaste

 

FWIW -  I am an electronics engineer and regularly use baking soda for car batteries and alcohol and other petrochemical based grease removing solvents to clean circuit board edge connectors and plug type connectors.

I also regularly use rubbing compound to clarify plastic headlight lenses. Yes, they are technically abrasive. But at some point they start to be considered polishing compounds rather than abrasive. It is really a mater of degree of fineness in the size of the particles. And when you are done polishing or rubbing them a quick coat of wax will fill the sub visible micro grooves and really put a clear on the lens.

Bogy

--- On Sat, 3/9/13, audiolaw@aol.com <audiolaw@aol.com> wrote:

From: audiolaw@aol.com <audiolaw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] my 2 cents on headlights. toothpaste
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, March 9, 2013, 10:15 PM



    It's VERY important to remember that toothpaste is abrasive, and 'whitening' toothpaste is more abrasive than average toothpaste.  The result of polishing headlights with toothpaste should be the same as polishing any metal or glass with abrasives. 
 
    Even fine abrasives leave groove patterns in what is polished.  The finer the polish, the finer the grooves.  And whether you polish in a straight line or swirl or circles, etc. will also affect the grooves that are left. 
 
    Look at a CD or DVD.  The groove in one of those (one groove, from edge to center) is too fine to be visible to the naked eye.  But tilt the disc in the light and you will see rainbow patterns reflected, as the light refracts off the groove. 
 
    I expect that you can achieve good results with a fine abrasive.  I don't know that toothpaste is fine enough.  But now that they're clean, get an LED minimag lite and shine it through from the bulb socket.  Move it around and see how the light comes through the lens, and whether it is getting refracted or the lens focus is affected. 
 
    You might want to get some very fine silver or other polish to follow the toothpaste. 
 
    ALSO, notice that the refracting grooves also happen whenever anyone uses emery paper or a fine file on electrical connections.  It doesn't take much to cut through any coating on the connection and expose the base metal, thereby decreasing the electrical conductivity AND opening the door to corrosion starting. 
 
    That's why electronic engineers always say NEVER 'clean' any electrical connection with anything harsher than a pencil eraser. 
 
Tom 
 
 
In a message dated 3/9/2013 9:52:51 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, jcrcpa@tx.rr.com writes:
 

Last week I cleaned the headlights on my cars based on a utube video.
colgate whitening toothpaste. rub on rub off. made them clear as ... well it made them clear. I will report back after a few weeks.

Chuck
84 300sd



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] my 2 cents on headlights. toothpaste

 

    It's VERY important to remember that toothpaste is abrasive, and 'whitening' toothpaste is more abrasive than average toothpaste.  The result of polishing headlights with toothpaste should be the same as polishing any metal or glass with abrasives. 
 
    Even fine abrasives leave groove patterns in what is polished.  The finer the polish, the finer the grooves.  And whether you polish in a straight line or swirl or circles, etc. will also affect the grooves that are left. 
 
    Look at a CD or DVD.  The groove in one of those (one groove, from edge to center) is too fine to be visible to the naked eye.  But tilt the disc in the light and you will see rainbow patterns reflected, as the light refracts off the groove. 
 
    I expect that you can achieve good results with a fine abrasive.  I don't know that toothpaste is fine enough.  But now that they're clean, get an LED minimag lite and shine it through from the bulb socket.  Move it around and see how the light comes through the lens, and whether it is getting refracted or the lens focus is affected. 
 
    You might want to get some very fine silver or other polish to follow the toothpaste. 
 
    ALSO, notice that the refracting grooves also happen whenever anyone uses emery paper or a fine file on electrical connections.  It doesn't take much to cut through any coating on the connection and expose the base metal, thereby decreasing the electrical conductivity AND opening the door to corrosion starting. 
 
    That's why electronic engineers always say NEVER 'clean' any electrical connection with anything harsher than a pencil eraser. 
 
Tom 
 
 
In a message dated 3/9/2013 9:52:51 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, jcrcpa@tx.rr.com writes:
 

Last week I cleaned the headlights on my cars based on a utube video.
colgate whitening toothpaste. rub on rub off. made them clear as ... well it made them clear. I will report back after a few weeks.

Chuck
84 300sd

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[diesel_mercedes] my 2 cents on headlights. toothpaste

 

Last week I cleaned the headlights on my cars based on a utube video.
colgate whitening toothpaste. rub on rub off. made them clear as ... well it made them clear. I will report back after a few weeks.

Chuck
84 300sd

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Rebuilding a 91 350SDL

 

Bobby,

Thanks for the suggestions. We have monitored oil over the years but have not seen any obvious indications of pollution beyond normal diesel oil wear. I am considering sending off some for chemical analysis.

Oil consumption was "normal" according to MB before the failure. My experience with this engine started with about a half a quart consumption every 3000 miles (my typical oil change intervals with diesels). Peaked at around 2 quarts at point it failed.

I have had starting issues with car that originally pointed me at the starter. Engine would seem to be locked and starter would not spin the flywheel. We determined that the starter was bad and replaced. (Note: the starter on this engine is too heavy to handle with one hand overhead and under the car - unfortunate near miss was learning opportunity here) Rebuilt the starter and all was good for about a year. May not have been entirely the starter as car started to feel "locked up" once or twice which a bump or two with starter would "free" the engine and it would start right up.

Mechanic felt that the car ran too smoothly for a bent crank arm when this started.

Additionally for some reason we started to experience a loss of coolant a 30,000 before failure. No sign of water in the oil. Eventually we found some pin hole leaks in water pump that prompted replacement

I am not ruling out an issue with #1 cylinder. Regardless we are planning to replace all the crank ams with larger ones if they are not already there.

Where would you look for after market fuel warming add ons?

I am pretty sure that some of the bio d we make is sub par. I have had 2 incidents with glycerol in the fuel. Removed, cleaned and replaced tank and all lines and filters and pumps on 2 of 3 diesels.

Am also interested in options on injectors. My bio d partner has an elsbett kit in his VW that seems to eat anything it is offered. Question is would some modification to the injectors offer any engine performance improvements?

Thanks for your input,
Rusty

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Bobby Yates Emory <liberty1@...> wrote:
>
> Rusty,
>
> MaBenz will rebuild and fix these for free, if it has not already been
> upgraded. (Note: this is rumor, not something I have done.)
>
> You and the re-builder need to carefully check several items, to find out
> what went wrong, and correct it.
>
> 1. Empty the oil and check if it seems OK or if it has been "polluted".
>
> 1. A. Is the level about what you expect or is it over full?
>
> 1. B. Is the oil diluted by the B95?
>
> 1. C. Is the oil jelled?
>
> If A and B, then check the rings for letting the fuel gets passed and the
> injectors for being clogged. If either, heat the fuel more before it gets
> to the injection pump.
>
> If A and C, then your transesterfication is not converting all the oil
> to bio-diesel. Veggie oil is not compatible with engine oil.
>
> 2. Are the rod and main bearings bad? If so, check the oil and see A-B or
> A-C.
>
> 3. Are the injectors slightly clogged or grossly clogged?
>
> If slightly, get new injector nozzles and rebuild injectors.
>
> If grossly, get new nozzles, rebuild injectors, and add more heat before
> the IP.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Bobby
>
> On Wed, Mar 6, 2013 at 10:31 PM, rmh3_98 <rmh3_98@...> wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > I'm am having my 91 SDL rebuilt after it died a while back. Not sure what
> > killed it yet as we will learn more after we crack open the engine. I have
> > run bio diesel in her for about the last 100m miles. I am pretty sure that
> > this had an impact on her demise. I am also prepared to find the infamous
> > "crank arm" issue. We are planning to upgrade to heavier crank arms to
> > start.
> >
> > My question is "What would you modify, replace or upgrade during the
> > process?"
> >
> > I plan to continue to use bio diesel. May blend it down a bit below B-95
> > though.
> >
> > Suggestions or directions to other sources is greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Rusty
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Toward freedom,
>
> Bobby Yates Emory
>

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