Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re : Serious Cold Wx. Starting Drill

 

No, NO!  She needs to do the valve adjustment now, in the cold, like I and many of the rest of us do....  That's how you LEARN!

"Keep the faith ! Spring *is* coming ."

Sheese, it's not even WINTER, yet....

Mark in Lakewood, CO (aka "Icebutt")

From: "Nate" <vwnate1@yahoo.com>
To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2011 2:35:37 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re : Serious Cold Wx. Starting Drill

Next time I remind you to have the valves adjusted & do the Diesel Purge & thin hot oil & filter change in August or September , I'm betting you'll listen .

At this point ,it's prolly $ well spent to have your local Indie M-B Garage do it , you can prolly hang around & drink coffee while they do it , takes a few hours in the cold though .

Keep the faith ! Spring *is* coming .

-Nate

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: SWEET ! .

 

Yeah, c'mon!  Don't keep us a secret!

Mark in Lakewood, CO

From: "BStromsoe" <bstromsoe@yahoo.com>
To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2011 2:27:25 PM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: SWEET ! .

 

Tell your friends to join too. We won't bite.
 
brian from la verne, ca

From: CaitlinDean <tinymachine@gmail.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2011 9:46 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: SWEET ! .

 
It's 30deg here right now...that's NOT centigrade ;)

Been mostly having good solid starts...2 bad days in a row where the parasitic drain (still haven't found it) took too much out of the battery (sat too long due to icy roads, etc) and we needed a jump each time, so we invested in a trickle charger and haven't needed it yet.

My friends with the wagon are not having such good results...I'm trying to help them out by passing along the wisdom from here...

...and dreaming of moving to Cali ;)

Caitlin
Santa Fe
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: 1985 turbo diesel

 

One quick test that I do is to pull off the oil fill cap when it is running.  If it blows off in your hand, it has considerable blowby.  If it will just sit on the top, rattling with a little oil fumes, it "could" be okay.

Yes, my 300D does have one small rust spot in front of the rear wheel. It needs rear shocks.  I just spent a few days spraying fluid-film under all my cars.  The rust is local to that one spot.  When I bought the car, I was the first to see it with the for sale sign.  By the time I came back, there were 4 other people waiting in case I didn't buy it.  It wasn't going to last long at that price.

Also, I run biodiesel.  This car will pay me back in less than a year on fuel.

Carl



On 12/15/2011 10:21 PM, rwillman18 wrote:

 

300D...WOW thanks for all the info...everything you mentioned works presently.

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, audiolaw@... wrote:
>
> You haven't identified the model that you are looking at. Is it a 300SD,
> 300TD or 300D or 300CD?
>
> A 300SD is the large, "S-Klasse" four door sedan. A 300TD is a
> station wagon of the midsize (currently "E-Klasse") range. A 300D is the midsize
> four door sedan. A 300CD is the two door "sports coupe" of the midsize
> line.
>
> The midsize cars in this line are all built on the 123 basic unibody
> model. The 300SD is on the 126 unibody that was also the 420SE, 500 and 560
> SE (and in Europe, the 300 and 380 SE), gas powered cars.
>
> Which one you are considering will make a big difference in ease of
> maintenance and finding parts.
>
> It may be counter intuitive, but the large 300SD is more fuel
> efficient than the smaller 300D, TD and CD, because the 126 was among the first
> cars with real wind tunnel research in its design, and it used aluminum for
> things like the hood and deck lid, to lower weight.
>
> $5,500 is probably a good price for a no rust, low mileage version of
> any of these cars. BUT, BUT, BUT, it is very important to remember that
> the most expensive car you will ever own is a "cheap" Mercedes.
>
> These cars can last essentially forever. But the work on them can be
> expensive and the parts are, well, Mercedes-priced.
>
> When you're reading posts on this forum, you are mostly talking to
> people who get a lot of their parts in pick-a-part yards, and do the work
> themselves. If you can do that, then the car can be a daily driver for you,
> your children, your grandchildren, and then some. If you can't do the work,
> but have a good mechanic who can (and will) the same longevity is
> obtainable, but at MUCH higher cost.
>
> Look at the HVAC system. Does the AC blow cold? Does the cruise
> control work (very likely not).
>
> When you turn the driver's side door key, do the locks on ALL the
> doors go up? (These cars have a vacuum pump on the engine (and the 300SD has
> another on in the trunk. Mercedes loves to run things, from the door locks
> to the transmission shifting, with vacuum. The vacuum lines are reliable,
> but the little flexible rubber bits that join sections of vacuum lines and
> vacuum lines to activating parts wear and leak and cause nightmares.
>
> Run the sunroof open and closed a few times. Is it stiff, jerky,
> frozen? This is not terrible to fix, but again, if you do it, you save bundles
> of money. (I'm in So. Cal. and very sunburn prone. I can't remember the
> last time I had my sunroof open.)
>
> The sunroof and the HVAC system have drain hoses that can get plugged.
> ALSO, under the hood hinges, back by the firewall, there is a deep pocket
> on each side. These have drain holes at the bottom, but they fill up with
> leaves and stuff. If they are not cleaned out, they are natural breeding
> spots for rust.
>
> Has anyone told you that the hood on this car will stand straight up,
> 90 degrees from the road surface? It takes playing with the latch at the
> hinge points (on both sides), but it makes service work MUCH easier.
>
> REMEMBER, if you're not going to do-it-yourself, this could be an
> expensive car to own.
>
> Tom, '81 300SD, 354,3++ miles.
>
>
> I think that in 1985 you're still looking at the iron head, 5 cylinder
> engine. This need a valve adjustment every now and again. You do this by
> yourself, in your own driveway, at no cost except the 30 minutes involved
> and the extensive post-job treatment with hand cleaner. Otherwise, you
> either pay a mechanic a small fortune to do it or you let the engine run rough
> and try to destroy itself.
>
> 120,000 miles is nothing on this engine. Anticipate a good one
> running over 300,000 without much cost (but do give it regular filter changes,
> oil changes and valve adjustments). Use only synthetic motor oil. Flush the
> cooling system.
>
> The dash lights will be dim. Live with it or try an LED upgrade
> (information all over the web).
>
>
>
> In a message dated 12/15/2011 12:37:35 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> rwillman18@... writes:
>
>
>
>
> I am contemplating the purchase of a 1985 turbo diesel with 120,000 miles.
> The car is tip top…no rust, and aside from a few chips in the paint a great
> looking car. I am in Wisconsin and I want to know if 5500.00 is a fair
> price and can I use it as a daily driver? What should I be looking at on this
> car? Thank for the help!!
>


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: 1985 turbo diesel

 

Well, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I paid $1800 for Martha,  my 1983 w123 300d turbo with 235,000 miles because the seller was desperate.  But, in 1990, I paid $7000 for Mary, my first 1983 w123 300d turbo with 60,000 miles (Mary & Martha = twins). In 2006 I put another $5000 into Mary for an engine. So, I have maybe $15K invested in Mary, and $3K in Martha. I drive them both but prefer Mary - maybe because I have invested so much. Kind of like the story of the chicken and the pig when it was time to sacrifice before the Lord. Eggs were cheap, but a pork chop was costly.
 
brian from la verne, ca

From: rwillman18 <rwillman18@yahoo.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2011 7:16 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: 1985 turbo diesel

 

Really...it's that high?

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, BStromsoe <bstromsoe@...> wrote:
>
> Great car. Hope it has 2K or 3K cash in the trunk to help offset the purchase price.
>
>  
> brian from la verne, ca
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: rwillman18 <rwillman18@...>
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2011 12:31 PM
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] 1985 turbo diesel
>
>
>  
> I am contemplating the purchase of a 1985 turbo diesel with 120,000 miles. The car is tip top…no rust, and aside from a few chips in the paint a great looking car. I am in Wisconsin and I want to know if 5500.00 is a fair price and can I use it as a daily driver? What should I be looking at on this car? Thank for the help!!
>



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: 1985 turbo diesel

 

    Remember, Brian is here in So.Cal. where there are a large number of such cars to choose from, on any given day. 
 
Tom
 
 
In a message dated 12/15/2011 7:19:22 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, rwillman18@yahoo.com writes:
 


Really...it's that high?

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, BStromsoe <bstromsoe@...> wrote:
>
> Great car. Hope it has 2K or 3K cash in the trunk to help offset the purchase price.
>
>  
> brian from la verne, ca
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: rwillman18 <rwillman18@...>
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2011 12:31 PM
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] 1985 turbo diesel
>
>
>  
> I am contemplating the purchase of a 1985 turbo diesel with 120,000 miles. The car is tip top…no rust, and aside from a few chips in the paint a great looking car. I am in Wisconsin and I want to know if 5500.00 is a fair price and can I use it as a daily driver? What should I be looking at on this car? Thank for the help!!
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 1985 turbo diesel

 

Waukesha WI

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, tom hanson <halfviking@...> wrote:
>
> Miles are great, price is a little high. Where are you in WI?
>
>
> Tom Hanson
> Mercedes Benz Classic Center USA
> MBUSA, LLC
> thomas.hanson@...
> 949 598-4842 direct
> 949 598-4870 fax
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: rwillman18 <rwillman18@...>
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2011 12:31 PM
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] 1985 turbo diesel
>
>
>  
> I am contemplating the purchase of a 1985 turbo diesel with 120,000 miles. The car is tip top…no rust, and aside from a few chips in the paint a great looking car. I am in Wisconsin and I want to know if 5500.00 is a fair price and can I use it as a daily driver? What should I be looking at on this car? Thank for the help!!
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 1985 turbo diesel

 

300D...WOW thanks for all the info...everything you mentioned works presently.

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, audiolaw@... wrote:
>
> You haven't identified the model that you are looking at. Is it a 300SD,
> 300TD or 300D or 300CD?
>
> A 300SD is the large, "S-Klasse" four door sedan. A 300TD is a
> station wagon of the midsize (currently "E-Klasse") range. A 300D is the midsize
> four door sedan. A 300CD is the two door "sports coupe" of the midsize
> line.
>
> The midsize cars in this line are all built on the 123 basic unibody
> model. The 300SD is on the 126 unibody that was also the 420SE, 500 and 560
> SE (and in Europe, the 300 and 380 SE), gas powered cars.
>
> Which one you are considering will make a big difference in ease of
> maintenance and finding parts.
>
> It may be counter intuitive, but the large 300SD is more fuel
> efficient than the smaller 300D, TD and CD, because the 126 was among the first
> cars with real wind tunnel research in its design, and it used aluminum for
> things like the hood and deck lid, to lower weight.
>
> $5,500 is probably a good price for a no rust, low mileage version of
> any of these cars. BUT, BUT, BUT, it is very important to remember that
> the most expensive car you will ever own is a "cheap" Mercedes.
>
> These cars can last essentially forever. But the work on them can be
> expensive and the parts are, well, Mercedes-priced.
>
> When you're reading posts on this forum, you are mostly talking to
> people who get a lot of their parts in pick-a-part yards, and do the work
> themselves. If you can do that, then the car can be a daily driver for you,
> your children, your grandchildren, and then some. If you can't do the work,
> but have a good mechanic who can (and will) the same longevity is
> obtainable, but at MUCH higher cost.
>
> Look at the HVAC system. Does the AC blow cold? Does the cruise
> control work (very likely not).
>
> When you turn the driver's side door key, do the locks on ALL the
> doors go up? (These cars have a vacuum pump on the engine (and the 300SD has
> another on in the trunk. Mercedes loves to run things, from the door locks
> to the transmission shifting, with vacuum. The vacuum lines are reliable,
> but the little flexible rubber bits that join sections of vacuum lines and
> vacuum lines to activating parts wear and leak and cause nightmares.
>
> Run the sunroof open and closed a few times. Is it stiff, jerky,
> frozen? This is not terrible to fix, but again, if you do it, you save bundles
> of money. (I'm in So. Cal. and very sunburn prone. I can't remember the
> last time I had my sunroof open.)
>
> The sunroof and the HVAC system have drain hoses that can get plugged.
> ALSO, under the hood hinges, back by the firewall, there is a deep pocket
> on each side. These have drain holes at the bottom, but they fill up with
> leaves and stuff. If they are not cleaned out, they are natural breeding
> spots for rust.
>
> Has anyone told you that the hood on this car will stand straight up,
> 90 degrees from the road surface? It takes playing with the latch at the
> hinge points (on both sides), but it makes service work MUCH easier.
>
> REMEMBER, if you're not going to do-it-yourself, this could be an
> expensive car to own.
>
> Tom, '81 300SD, 354,3++ miles.
>
>
> I think that in 1985 you're still looking at the iron head, 5 cylinder
> engine. This need a valve adjustment every now and again. You do this by
> yourself, in your own driveway, at no cost except the 30 minutes involved
> and the extensive post-job treatment with hand cleaner. Otherwise, you
> either pay a mechanic a small fortune to do it or you let the engine run rough
> and try to destroy itself.
>
> 120,000 miles is nothing on this engine. Anticipate a good one
> running over 300,000 without much cost (but do give it regular filter changes,
> oil changes and valve adjustments). Use only synthetic motor oil. Flush the
> cooling system.
>
> The dash lights will be dim. Live with it or try an LED upgrade
> (information all over the web).
>
>
>
> In a message dated 12/15/2011 12:37:35 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> rwillman18@... writes:
>
>
>
>
> I am contemplating the purchase of a 1985 turbo diesel with 120,000 miles.
> The car is tip top…no rust, and aside from a few chips in the paint a great
> looking car. I am in Wisconsin and I want to know if 5500.00 is a fair
> price and can I use it as a daily driver? What should I be looking at on this
> car? Thank for the help!!
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 1985 turbo diesel

 


Really...it's that high?

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, BStromsoe <bstromsoe@...> wrote:
>
> Great car. Hope it has 2K or 3K cash in the trunk to help offset the purchase price.
>
>  
> brian from la verne, ca
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: rwillman18 <rwillman18@...>
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2011 12:31 PM
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] 1985 turbo diesel
>
>
>  
> I am contemplating the purchase of a 1985 turbo diesel with 120,000 miles. The car is tip top…no rust, and aside from a few chips in the paint a great looking car. I am in Wisconsin and I want to know if 5500.00 is a fair price and can I use it as a daily driver? What should I be looking at on this car? Thank for the help!!
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 1985 turbo diesel

 


Max...where are you located? Car is being sold by the grandson of the original owner...who is selling it for him since he can no longer drive. I have seen the car up on a rack and it is extremly clean zero rust..hard to find here in the North! I've looked at over 40 cars and most sellers are less than honest...untill now..I would be interested in your car, can you tell me any more...pictures?

-- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "max_stemple" <jasperezra@...> wrote:
>
> Yea, lets be real here. First of all $55 is probably the asking price. 120K for miles if true is low, not to say the car can't be or is not trashed. Is it the original owner? Do they have the history of the car? Rust? Check it out real close and if you can't do it yourself hire someone who can. For comparison I have a 1980 240 for sale. It has a Mercedes Benz engine(not rebuilt) installed by a Mercedes Benz dealer at 90K miles. Car has 180K. California car no rust. I bought from original owner. I have all documentation of work history including the original p.o. Brand new set of tires, ect., ect., ect., Car could be driven to NYC tomorrow. I am asking a whole lot less. Did I say it also has a four speed transmission and a heater system that really works, none of that push button crap. Max
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, BStromsoe <bstromsoe@> wrote:
> >
> > Great car. Hope it has 2K or 3K cash in the trunk to help offset the purchase price.
> >
> >  
> > brian from la verne, ca
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: rwillman18 <rwillman18@>
> > To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2011 12:31 PM
> > Subject: [diesel_mercedes] 1985 turbo diesel
> >
> >
> >  
> > I am contemplating the purchase of a 1985 turbo diesel with 120,000 miles. The car is tip top…no rust, and aside from a few chips in the paint a great looking car. I am in Wisconsin and I want to know if 5500.00 is a fair price and can I use it as a daily driver? What should I be looking at on this car? Thank for the help!!
> >
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Solved heater problem 84 300D W123

 

Solved heater problem 84 300D W123

Symptoms:
- full heat all the time when temp dial anywhere but "MIN"
- full cold when in MIN detent

Solution:
Part number 0008221003 - the mystery box

- Junkyard pulls are all over ebay starting around $50.
- brinsonco.com has them for $115 reman by not-Programa/three year warranty

Be aware that when other components upstream from this unit go bad, the problem can cascade downstream and burn out this box. These include the monovalve and the electric coolant boost pump. I checked my monovalve for resistance and it was 17, which was within the 11 to 19 acceptable range. I forget what the boost pump range is because I didn't check it...I put a new one on the car. ebay $90.

Spending too much money on this car.

Jim

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Re : Serious Cold Wx. Starting Drill

 

Ha Ha, I remember my 6 volt VW bug. When you turned on the headlight switch it took a few seconds for the lights to actually come on. When I moved to the arctic region of N.E. Washington I had to install a 8 volt battery to get it to start. max

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
>
> O.K. Caitlin ;
>
> Just pop the hood after shut down and disconnect the _negative_ battery cable clamp , then in the morning it'll have plenty to get you fired up .
>
> This was a mandatory thing when I lived in New Hampshire in the 1960's & we had mostly crappy old worn out 6 volt vehicles , even the clock would run the battery down too far to start reliably in deepest winter .
>
> Just remember : DO NOT allow any fool to spray ether (starting fluid) anywhere near your precious Mercedes as it WILL kill the engine ! .
>
> Next time I remind you to have the valves adjusted & do the Diesel Purge & thin hot oil & filter change in August or September , I'm betting you'll listen .
>
> At this point ,it's prolly $ well spent to have your local Indie M-B Garage do it , you can prolly hang around & drink coffee while they do it , takes a few hours in the cold though .
>
> Keep the faith ! Spring *is* coming .
>
> -Nate
> C

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