Re: [diesel_mercedes] Auxiliary glow plug switch.

 

I had a 1977 240D that I rigged up with a toggle switch connected to I think the violet wire going to the glow plug relay.
As I remember, it bypassed the relay timer.
It would keep the plugs glowing after the motor started as well.
This helped cold weather starts too.
One other person that had done the same mod would flip the switch when he went through the drive through and found it quiter when he was ordering.

Mark
From: Lawrence Rhodes <primobassoon@sbcglobal.net>
To: "diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2014 9:32:04 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Auxiliary glow plug switch.

 
I have found that working glow plugs make a huge difference in starting a diesel.  Sometimes just a little more time is needed.  You can do this with double starts which means running two start cycles.  Another method which on one car became the normal method was to put in a manual glow plug switch in.  This includes a simple automotive relay you can buy at a parts store for under 10 dollars or take one from under the hood of just about any car in a junk yard.  Very simple.   Two connections of the four or 5 terminals are the activation circuit.  Two others(usually the big ones) carry the current to the glow plug circuit.(a circuit in electrical terms can be as simple as a battery, switch and light bulb with wires connecting them together.) You hook a direct connection from your battery to a fuse, then the relay, from the relay splice into the glow plug circuit.  Then you have to connect the activation circuit using a momentary switch.  I found the pin in the circuit that activates the glow plug light so when I push the switch the glow plug light illuminates.  I believe I have documented this somewhere on the this lists website so  look for the pictures if you are interested in this modification.  I count to 5 normally.  10 in winter.  Lawrence Rhodes.........
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/photos/album/899645931/pic/list my modification of a series model 1977.  Requires using different glow plugs that ground.



__._,_.___
Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (2)
Recent Activity:
.

__,_._,___
No comments:

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Front/Rear Glass replacement.. w126

 

You can also call one of the Franchise glass guys.  They may be able to source the glass, but make sure they can get the rubber molding.  Assuming we aren't talking about a "modern" glue it in installation.


On Thu, Jan 16, 2014 at 10:18 AM, brian's 83 300d's <bstromsoe@yahoo.com> wrote:
 

I did one mistake (let a local yahoo put it in for a "good" price), and then I did one smart thing (had the other car in for a fender repair and the body shop guy called in a glass man he used). Both were about $200 as I recall, but the second installation was perfecto. So, my advice - go to a body shop where they do insurance repair work and let them install a window IF IF IF the price is right.

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, <ajrn@...> wrote:
>
> did you "source" your own glass-- or just hand it off to a body/autoglass shop?
>




--
Al Boucher

__._,_.___
Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (5)
Recent Activity:
.

__,_._,___
No comments:

[diesel_mercedes] Auxiliary glow plug switch.

 

I have found that working glow plugs make a huge difference in starting a diesel.  Sometimes just a little more time is needed.  You can do this with double starts which means running two start cycles.  Another method which on one car became the normal method was to put in a manual glow plug switch in.  This includes a simple automotive relay you can buy at a parts store for under 10 dollars or take one from under the hood of just about any car in a junk yard.  Very simple.   Two connections of the four or 5 terminals are the activation circuit.  Two others(usually the big ones) carry the current to the glow plug circuit.(a circuit in electrical terms can be as simple as a battery, switch and light bulb with wires connecting them together.) You hook a direct connection from your battery to a fuse, then the relay, from the relay splice into the glow plug circuit.  Then you have to connect the activation circuit using a momentary switch.  I found the pin in the circuit that activates the glow plug light so when I push the switch the glow plug light illuminates.  I believe I have documented this somewhere on the this lists website so  look for the pictures if you are interested in this modification.  I count to 5 normally.  10 in winter.  Lawrence Rhodes.........
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/photos/album/899645931/pic/list my modification of a series model 1977.  Requires using different glow plugs that ground.

__._,_.___
Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (1)
Recent Activity:
.

__,_._,___
No comments:

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Charging Lamp

 

As soon as I start mine its 14.55 volts, at idle. Max


On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 7:56 PM, Bud S <budski252@yahoo.com> wrote:


Well, I haven't had the battery die yet, light is still working as I described.  Today when I got home I left the engine running and checked the voltage.  It was 12.2, reved the engine a bit and no change didn't force a charge.  The light on the dash goes off completely at about 35mph and above.

I've got a brand new Bosch voltage regulator in there, it's probably got 100 miles on it.

I'm thinking of picking up one of those cigarette lighter voltmeters to see what it's doing.

I was surprised the battery ground goes to sheet metal and not the engine/tranny bell housing, I'll have to add a ground cable.

Bud



On Sunday, January 12, 2014 9:23 AM, "vwnate1@yahoo.com" <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:
 


O.K. Bud ;

Sounds good .

In many older vehicles , over time resistance builds up so the charging light will glow faintly as you drive when all is well .

Just get a DC voltmeter or $5 Harbor Freight Multi-Meter and check the voltage across the center of the battery's posts , while the engine is running ~ if it's below 13 VDC , rev. the engine ~ not much , don't rev. the pi$$ out of it trying to force it to charge ~ the voltage will either ride to 13 + VDC as soon as the engine revs up or it won't .

If it doesn't , the brushes in the alternator are prolly bad , even if it's a rebuilt unit .

If the voltage rises , try it again with the lights and HVAC fan going , these 55 Ampere alternators don't have much extra so 12.7 VDC with everything going is O.K. , don't panic .

Get a flashlight and look at the round black thing on the back of the alternator ~ unless it clearly says " BOSCH " on it , it's crap , _period_ go to a Partshaus and order up a BOSH brand ( ! only !) # 1 197 311 02X voltage regulator , it comes with new brushes and you can install it in 15 minutes or so .

The last digit isn't important , might be 2 , 5 , 7 , whatever .

I carry one in my glove box as I travel a lot and don't want to have to go to M-B Dealer if it poops out , FLAPS will only ever have crappo off branded junk ones on the shelf , they're NO DANG GOOD because the charge at a very low rate .

If you like to tinker , the red 1.5 MM wires connecting the alternator to the battery etc. have brass ring connectors that can be hand polished then you replace the tiny Metric screws & washers that hold them to the black plastic box the all join in , sometimes this helps bot the charge rate and the glowing charge light .

Unless you personally added  a battery ground to engine cable , it needs one .

-Nate
(who keeps a BOSCH voltage regulator next to my computer so folks will always get the right one !)


Bud Wrote :

OK, I have no idea what I really did today. Removed the cluster the other day enough to get to the bulbs. Found bulbs missing for brake pad wear sensors, no bulb for seat belt, no bulb for high beam.
Put new bulbs in except for high beam(there was no receptacle for it). Turned the key to on and same ole same ole, just a warning light for emergency brake & preglow.
Took the main connector off and reinstalled. Pushed the cluster back in. Went to start the car and got the charge indicator light, brake and preglow to come on, started the car and the charge indicator went off.
Drove it around and have very faint glow at idle on the charge indicator. My idle might be too low, the tach doesn't work. Stopped the car, restarted and got the charge indicator light on again. So I guess it's working like it's supposed to.

From: Bud S <budski252@...>;
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>;
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Charging Lamp
Sent: Thu, Jan 9, 2014 9:01:33 PM

 
Thanks Nate,
I'll try that in the next day or two.

Bud

I see you have the same typing ability as I do :0



On Wednesday, January 8, 2014 10:35 PM, "vwnate1@..." <vwnate1@...> wrote:
 

O.K. Bud ;

If you tuen the key on then ground the skinny wire leading to the ALTERNATOR , THE CHARGE LAMP SHOULD & MUST COME ON , IF NOT , i'D FIRST CHECK THE DASH BULB AND HOLDER , THEN THE mpc.....

Oops , damn caps lock again .

-Nate


Bud Wrote :

No, the light has never come on since I've had it.  There's always been something wrong with the charging system and I found out there was a late model VR without the "L" leg installed.  Got a Bosch with the "L" leg and it's been charging the battery since I put it in.

Bud



On Monday, January 6, 2014 5:17 PM, "vwnate1@..." <vwnate1@...> wrote:
 

No ;

This is wrong/bad .

Does the low charge light ever come on ? .

-Nate

Bud Wrote :

Just an update, since I've put the new regulator in, it's been charging like a champ.  The only oddball thing is that the battery warning light on the dash does not come on when I put the key to the glow position.  Does that sound right?

Thanks,
Bud
http://www.rhinocat.com/cvaf4u/


On Friday, December 27, 2013 12:38 PM, Bud S <budski252@...> wrote:
 
Thanks Bogy and Carl, I got a wild hair when I woke up this morning and ran the voltage regulator number Vemo V10-77-0001 that was in the car and the replacement and I called my parts house and it seems this regulator is for newer 300sd's.

Dug some more and found http://www.regitar.com/FlyerPDF/cs.pdf which gives info on regulators.  The vemo cross references to a Bosch 1197311027 which doesn't have an "L" leg for the light on the instrument panel.

No light when I turn the key to on, my understanding is the light has to excite the alternator then the light drops out.  I also get a faint glow from the brake light and I replaced the pads and sensors.

I have on order a 1197311004 that has the "L" leg, so I guess I'll see what happens when I replace it. 

Bud


On Thursday, December 26, 2013 11:35 PM, Bogy Wan Kenobi <polespearbogy@...> wrote:
 
Bud:

When you plugged the relay back in it behaved as if it was just turned on by the ignition key and began to heat the plugs. Had you given it a few seconds it would have, or at least should have, kicked off and the voltage would have risen back to the idling voltage. If it was me I would chase the alternator because I think your new regulator has failed.

I believe you can disconnect the alternator at the junction block on the right inner fender well. There should be two 'heavy' red cloth covered wires. Some models have them go from the alternator to the starter and then up to the junction block and some go right to the junction block from the alternator. Disconnect them and then attach them to a load like a headlight. Then measure the voltage. If it is still 12.?? volts then the regulator has failed. If it is up to 14.? volts then you have a heavy load or wiring problem.

Just to put it in perspective, one of those heavy wires goes right to the glow plug relay as supply power for the plugs. The other heavy wire goes to the light switch and from there supplies the entire rest of the car. In other words - the glow plugs pull as much as, or more than, the current used by the whole rest of the car.

COLD glow plugs pull upwards of 75 amps for the pencil type. That quickly drops as the plugs warm up. But that initial load  can drop the battery voltage a volt or two. If you disconnect the glow plugs and the voltage rises up to 14.5 volts then you have a GP relay issue. But you have to disconnect the plug with the heavy wires at the glow plug relay. It's the bigger of the two plugs.

Alternatively, you could place a 60 or 80 amp meter between the two heavy red wires and the junction block. Give it 15 minutes to allow for battery charging. A "lot" of current (40 to 80 Amps) flowing during those 15 minutes is the alternator charging the battery. If you only get a few amps or no amps during that 15 minutes then your alternator is bad. But if the current stays maxed out at 40 to 80 amps then you have a wiring problem. If it never goes up you have an alternator/regulator problem.

But your description of the problem sounds more like a failed regulator/alternator to me.

You could pull the alternator and have it tested. But Autozone and checker can't do it. You will have to take it to an auto electric guy or maybe NAPA or such.

This is just my two cents.
But FWIW, I am an electrical engineer.
Bogy.




On Thursday, December 26, 2013 7:43 PM, diyernh <diyernh@...> wrote:





__._,_.___
Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (17)
Recent Activity:
.

__,_._,___
No comments:

[diesel_mercedes] Re: Front/Rear Glass replacement.. w126

 

I did one mistake (let a local yahoo put it in for a "good" price), and then I did one smart thing (had the other car in for a fender repair and the body shop guy called in a glass man he used). Both were about $200 as I recall, but the second installation was perfecto. So, my advice - go to a body shop where they do insurance repair work and let them install a window IF IF IF the price is right.

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, <ajrn@...> wrote:
>
> did you "source" your own glass-- or just hand it off to a body/autoglass shop?
>

__._,_.___
Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (4)
Recent Activity:
.

__,_._,___
No comments:

[diesel_mercedes] college graduates

 

Thu, 16 Jan 2014 08:04:57 -0500

SPRINGFIELD, Mass. (AP) — A trio of would-be Massachusetts car thieves had to hit the brakes on their plan because none of them knew how to drive a stick.

Police in Springfield say the men pulled a knife on a food delivery driver Tuesday night and demanded the grub and his keys. But then they noticed the car had a manual transmission.

Sgt. John Delaney tells The Republican newspaper (http://bit.ly/1mahyod) the thieves argued among themselves then ran down the street with their ill-gotten dinner.

The driver was not seriously hurt. There have been no arrests.

 

__._,_.___
Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (2)
Recent Activity:
.

__,_._,___
No comments:
Subscribe to: Posts (Atom)