[diesel_mercedes] 240D, Manual, 280K miles, Portland, OR - Gotta sell this little beauty...

If anyone in the area is interested, we'd really like to find a good
home for this guy.

See my message a little earlier in the month, or take a look at our
craigslist posting...

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/car/543277810.html

Make an offer...I promise not to laugh.

Leo


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Pictures

aaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh hahahahahaahahaahhaa......
You funny!!
You bery funny guy!!!!


----- Original Message -----
From: "BStromsoe" <bstromsoe@yahoo.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 10:20 PM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Pictures


> This has to do with hearing impaired people who are overweight and anxious
> to drop some pounds. Can be acheived by utilizing smaller, slimmer
> hearing aids.
>
> brian
>
> Kevin Kraly <kraly@comcast.net> wrote: thin the heard.
> I just can't figure how to do that........
>
> You can start by selling me the '72 220D.
>
> Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
> 1983 300SD 266Kmi, Ursula
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> brian from la verne, ca
>
> ---------------------------------
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Pictures

This has to do with hearing impaired people who are overweight and anxious to drop some pounds. Can be acheived by utilizing smaller,  slimmer hearing aids.

brian

Kevin Kraly <kraly@comcast.net> wrote:
thin the heard.
I just can't figure how to do that........

You can start by selling me the '72 220D.

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 266Kmi, Ursula



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brian from la verne, ca


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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Mounting Solar Panels

Degrease/dewax the area first.

rickca99 wrote:
> Hi All,
>
>
> I am about to mount 3 110 watt solar panels to our fiberglass roof
> using 3M VHB tape acquired from AM Solar.
>
> Is there anything I should be aware of before mounting these using this
> tape?
>
> Thanks for any information.
>
>
> Rick Clark 2002 DSDP 3852, Spartan MM, Cummins ISC 350, '98 TJ Toad
>
> http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/bb317/rickca55/
>
> http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2090792
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------
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>
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>
>
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Pulling a trailer with 240D

Jeff,

I looked at that a long time ago and there is a hitch for the 123s that's reasonably safe unless you want to tow a cattle car. Will have to look in my archives to find you info, later next week.

Darryl Urcheck (yes the guy from the Cit lists lol who also owns a 240d)

On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 20:19:30 -0600, Jeff Fennema wrote
> > hey I just called u-haul about installing a hitch on my 240D. They
> > said they did not have one for the 240D. Has anyone installed a
> > u-haul hitch on there 240D, I thought someone said they had?
> >
> I would very much doubt that anyone had a hitch for a car that was produced
> last over 23 years ago, was somewhat limited in appeal due to excessively
> high purchase price (my coupé, $37,000 in '84: an Eldorado - $18,000), and
> the overwhelming trend towards towing with trucks.
> Further, the only hitch I have ever seen on any W123 not my own, was an
> extremely dangerous affair bolted through the trunk floor (too thin by far)
> and through the rear bumper (attached to the car by a rubber mount, AND
> aluminum to boot).
> However, that said, Valley Hitch, FWIW, list a hitch for W123, but there is
> no picture available, and no one I've talked to knows what this thing looks
> like.
>
> For those who can, or know someone who fabricates, there is enough info in
> my Photo entry on hitches to allow you to fabricate a safe, sturdy hitch for
> any W123. Raw material is a hitch for a Jeep Cherokee of late-eighties
> vintage (the really square ones). These are common in junkyards (the hitch,
> AND the Jeep). Bonus: the fabrication was really quite simple - cut the arms
> off the centre bar, drill to fit behind the bumper mounts, then reweld back
> onto the bar in a different location than was before. I could probably do
> another in a couple hours, it's that easy.
>
> Jeff
>
>


--
WOW! Homepage (http://www.wowway.com)

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[diesel_mercedes] cold starting

I'm thinking about driving my '85 300TD into the frigid depths of
Quebec City, Canada during mid-February. I was wondering if anyone
had any personal experience with starting a vehicle such as mine in
temperatures around -25C (-15F). I have a block heater installed and
I plan to use it but I'm not sure if that'll be enough. Any thoughts?
Would starting fluid help in addition to the block heater being
plugged in?

Thanks,

Victor



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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: House WATER PUMPS

Don,
You might want to look at shurflo.com. It shows the rebuilt kits for all their pumps. All pumps show a check valve kit. The physical location of the check valves are not shown in the drawings. I would think that the check valve is located in the discharge head area. The drawing for the 4.0 and 5.7 series pumps show the old pump housing. Chuck B

Don & Vicki Leith <dleith@escapees.com> wrote:
Chuck,

The check valve could be built in to the pump discharge but it is definitely
past the impeller and volute. Therefore no back pressure is on the volute
except incoming pressure from the fresh water holding tank.

Don Leith

> Don,
> Interesting. I cannot remember there being a check valve after the
> output of my water pump. If there was one, I would not have had 2 pump
> failures due to back flow pressure from the water heater. When I changed
> out my pump, there was water flowing back from the water heater. I am led
> to believe that the check valve is in the water pump. It is raining
> tonight so I will try to take a look tomorrow to be sure. As you know I
> have been wrong several times. Chuck B
>
> Don & Vicki Leith <dleith@escapees.com> wrote:
> Chuck,


Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Realtime tire inflation systems

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "david brady" <dmb993@...> wrote:
>
> Folks,
> Here's a hypothetical question for you. Assume the tire load tables
> spec that you should be running 100psi in your steer tires to
support your 10,000lb front end. We all know that the 100psi should
be set when the tire is cold. What if I install a realtime tire
inflation/deflation system that can alter the tire pressure as I
drive down the road. How should the pressures in the tire be
adjusted. If all that's required is 100psi to support 10,000 pounds,
then as the tire heats and the pressures rise, is it reasonable to
bleed of pressure back to the 100psi required to sustain the load?
>
> Thanks,
> David Brady
> Blue Bird, LXi
>

No, David, that's not how it works. Some military vehicles are
equipped with a "realtime tire inflation/deflation system" to allow
them to maintain traction OFF THE ROAD in conditions such as sand and
mud -- not to try to maintain a set pressure. If you were stuck in
sand, for example, deflating your motorhome tires down to 35-40 psi
might allow you to drive out of the sand, but if you drove on
pavement at that pressure, the tire would soon get hot enough to
actually catch fire!

I was running a service station back when tubeless tires were new on
the market. One day a customer on Highway 66 drove in to fill up
with gas, and he asked me to check his tires, which were hot. I
checked one tire, and it read about 36 psi, and he said, "Bleed it
off! Bleed it off!" I told him that if I bled it off, he would need
to air it back up when it cooled down, and if I bled it down to 32
psi, within a few miles the heat would bring it back up to 36 psi
again. The difference was how hot the tire would have to get in
order to build up to 36 psi.

He said, "That's a tubeless tire, and it'll blow out at 45 psi!" I
said I didn't know who told him that, but it wasn't true. When
someone brought in a tubeless car tire with a slow leak, I aired it
up to 100 psi and then ran water across the tire looking for leaks.
If I couldn't find a leak at 100 psi, then I would deflate the tire,
break down the beads and coat them with rubber cement and reinflated
the tire back up to 32 psi. I never had a comeback for a slow leak.

Like Russ said, I've seen wheels split from overloading, but I've
never seen a tire blow out from too much pressure.

Weigh your coach, then adjust your tire pressure for the load that
tire is carrying, and then check the pressure every week or two with
a gauge. You might need only 85-90 psi on your steer tires to carry
the load, and it will definitely ride better. On the highway, I
check my tires by pounding them with lug wrench (mostly to see if one
of my duals is low. You can't always tell by looking.). Listen for
the "ring" of a tire, and then if you
hear "boing," "boing," "boing," "thud," you'll know that particular
tire needs attention.

Ken Molloy
1994 Allegro Bay 37' DP with no toad
5.9 l Cummins 230 hp w/Allison M-3060


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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Realtime tire inflation systems

First - your real time inflation-deflation system has to continuously
maintain pressure well over 125 pounds per square inch to a rotating
mass. Just how do you plan on sealing that?
And what are you accomplishing - ride quality? If that tire pressure
increases 35 pounds (which its designed to do by the manufacturer) due
to heating up, you aren't really accomplishing anything else other than
improving ride quality. Oh, and excercising a compressor system that has
to pump your tires back up each time you stop or slow down and they
start to cool.

david brady wrote:
> Dave,
>
> Why?
>
> --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, Dave Head <v8q@...> wrote:
>
>>nope
>>
>>david brady wrote:
>>
>>>Folks,
>>>
>>>Here's a hypothetical question for you. Assume the tire load
>
> tables
>
>>>spec that you should be running 100psi in your steer tires to
>
> support
>
>>>your 10,000lb front end. We all know that the 100psi should be
>
> set when
>
>>>the tire is cold. What if I install a realtime tire
>
> inflation/deflation
>
>>>system that can alter the tire pressure as I drive down the road.
>
> How
>
>>>should the pressures in the tire be adjusted. If all that's
>
> required is
>
>>>100psi to support 10,000 pounds, then as the tire heats and the
>>>pressures rise, is it reasonable to bleed of pressure back to the
>>>100psi required to sustain the load?
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>David Brady
>>>Blue Bird, LXi
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>--------------------------------------------
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>>>Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the
>
> RV model you have.
>
>>>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
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>>>
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: House WATER PUMPS

Chuck,

The check valve could be built in to the pump discharge but it is definitely
past the impeller and volute. Therefore no back pressure is on the volute
except incoming pressure from the fresh water holding tank.


Don Leith


> Don,
> Interesting. I cannot remember there being a check valve after the
> output of my water pump. If there was one, I would not have had 2 pump
> failures due to back flow pressure from the water heater. When I changed
> out my pump, there was water flowing back from the water heater. I am led
> to believe that the check valve is in the water pump. It is raining
> tonight so I will try to take a look tomorrow to be sure. As you know I
> have been wrong several times. Chuck B
>
> Don & Vicki Leith <dleith@escapees.com> wrote:
> Chuck,

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Pictures

thin the heard.
I just can't figure how to do that........

You can start by selling me the '72 220D.

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 266Kmi, Ursula



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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: House WATER PUMPS

Don,
Interesting. I cannot remember there being a check valve after the output of my water pump. If there was one, I would not have had 2 pump failures due to back flow pressure from the water heater. When I changed out my pump, there was water flowing back from the water heater. I am led to believe that the check valve is in the water pump. It is raining tonight so I will try to take a look tomorrow to be sure. As you know I have been wrong several times. Chuck B

Don & Vicki Leith <dleith@escapees.com> wrote:
Chuck,

Incorrect. The pressure is against the check valve which is after the pump
discharge. Without a check valve the pressure just made by the pump would
bleed back into the water storage tank.

Don Leith

> CORRECT Jim,
> Sometimes the air head space in the top of a water can go away and be
> replaced with water. When water is heated, it expands. If there is no
> air space to expand, it has to go somewhere. Ever see a weeping PTR valve
> leaking water? Re establish the air space in the tank and the weeping
> stops. If one does not have a accumulator tank, the pressure is then on
> the water pump. Chuck B


Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Realtime tire inflation systems

Dave,

Why?

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, Dave Head <v8q@...> wrote:
>
> nope
>
> david brady wrote:
> > Folks,
> >
> > Here's a hypothetical question for you. Assume the tire load
tables
> > spec that you should be running 100psi in your steer tires to
support
> > your 10,000lb front end. We all know that the 100psi should be
set when
> > the tire is cold. What if I install a realtime tire
inflation/deflation
> > system that can alter the tire pressure as I drive down the road.
How
> > should the pressures in the tire be adjusted. If all that's
required is
> > 100psi to support 10,000 pounds, then as the tire heats and the
> > pressures rise, is it reasonable to bleed of pressure back to the
> > 100psi required to sustain the load?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > David Brady
> > Blue Bird, LXi
> >
> >
> >
> > --------------------------------------------
> > Off-topic posts will be removed.
> > Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the
RV model you have.
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
> > Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>


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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Correct Tire Pressure

Hi Russ,
Please re read my post. If you are at max weight the tires can carry, the minimum cold pressure needed IS the max cold pressure stamped on the tire. Sometimes confusing. Same thing in my book. Again, a play with words that Charlie posted. Our rims have the max pressure stamped onto the rims. They are the Accuride alumium rims that came with our 04 Windsor. Might want to look at the latest Goodyear motorhome tire pressure guide. They warn against exceeding the cold tire pressure on the rims A lot of good information to be had. Oh by the way, you can still ride with me. I have tire change road care insurance so you will not be required to help. Just hold on tight when she blows. Chuck B

Russ Waterhouse <mredsel890@earthlink.net> wrote:
Chuck,
No where does it give a minimum. You are presuming a minimum. If you look at all cars
and trucks, the average pressure is well below the Max. Mostly to smooth out the ride. The
tires says "Maximum tire pressure XXXLBS to carry XXXX pounds" No minimum mentioned.
Glad I am not riding with you. Hate to waste an afternoon changing a tire. I have not
seen pressure stamped into a rim. I HAVE seen rims split from to much weight/pressure.
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck & Mary Boros" <elmerfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Correct Tire Pressure

: Hi Russ,
: To me, it is kind of a play with words. I read it both ways. The maximum cold
pressure that is recommended, but the minimun cold pressure to carry the maxium load.
With that in mind, one also has to take into count the maximum pressure that is stamped on
most rims. If I remember correctly, the maximum cold pressure on my tires is 125 lbs.
The rims state 120 lbs. Interesting. Chuck B
:
: Russ Waterhouse <mredsel890@earthlink.net> wrote:
: To me, the side wall reads Maximum pressure for Maximum load, Increasing the
tire pressure
: beyond the Max pressure is asking for trouble. As is overloading the tires.
: Russ
: ----- Original Message -----
: From: "cbgramp" <cbgramps@embarqmail.com>
: To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
: Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 8:55 AM
: Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Correct Tire Pressure
:
:: Not really. The 110 psi is the minimum pressure requiered to carry
:: the maximum load. You can increase the pressure beyond 110 psi but it
:: will not increase the carrying capacity of the tire. Of course,
:: hopefully, you won't need the maximum carrying capacity of the tires
:: so you can carry less pressure and get the job done.
::
:: Charlie
:: 1999 Tradewinds
::
:: --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, Chuck & Mary Boros
:: <elmerfletcher@...> wrote:
:: >
:: > The 110 psi cold is the maxium COLD pressure you can put into the
:: tires. As you drive down the blvd, the heat from the tires rolling
:: will increase that pressure. That is why Goodyear wants you to use
:: the cold pressure figures at the beginning of each day. The duals on
:: the rear need to be within one or so lbs from each other or one tire
:: will run hotter than the other. I'm sure someone will chime in about
:: road crown.
:: >
:: > You need to load your coach with all your goodies,the DW, fill
:: your diesel tank, propane and fresh water tanks. Then go weigh your
:: coach. Goodyear has a chart on what tire pressure you need to use
:: for each axle. You can probably find that chart on line.
:: > You never did say what size tires you had. Chuck B
:: >
:: > raasfarm <raasfarm@...> wrote:
:: > I recently purchased a 2006 Gulfstream Friendship G7
:: motorhome on the
:: > Freightliner chassis. What is the correct air pressure? The tire
:: > manufacturer, Goodyear, has 110 psi cold.
:: >
:: >
:: >
:: >
:: >
:: >
:: > Chuck & Mary Boros
:: > 04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
:: > Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat
:: >
:: > ---------------------------------
:: > Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
:: >
:: > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
:: >
::
::
::
::
:: --------------------------------------------
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:: Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.
::
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::
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::
::
::
::
:
:
:
:
:
:
: Chuck & Mary Boros
: 04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
: Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat
:
: ---------------------------------
: Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
:
: [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
:
:
:
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Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

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[Diesel-RVs] Water pump not working

My water pump is blowing the 10 amp fuse as soon as I hit the remote
switch. The light on the remote switch doesn't even flicker before
the fuse blows. I'm told it is a diaphragm pump. I assume diaphragm
pumps can't bind up outside of the motor itself. It got cold in the
bay as the heater was off temporarily when a fuse tripped, but it ran
perfect for two weeks after that. Then I hit the switch, and it did
nothing - no noise whatsoever since. The outside hose froze when the
fuse tripped, but I don't know about the pump itself. Even if the
pump did freeze, does it make sense that it would work for two weeks
and then quit? I think it's a ShurFlo.

If the motor is binding, is it possible to get it turning by banging
on the pump housing? Or is there any way to manually turn the motor
like a garbage disposal? The pump is not easily accessible at all on
my coach.

Mike
2007 Fleetwood Bounder 38V

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Correct Tire Pressure

Chuck,
No where does it give a minimum. You are presuming a minimum. If you look at all cars
and trucks, the average pressure is well below the Max. Mostly to smooth out the ride. The
tires says "Maximum tire pressure XXXLBS to carry XXXX pounds" No minimum mentioned.
Glad I am not riding with you. Hate to waste an afternoon changing a tire. I have not
seen pressure stamped into a rim. I HAVE seen rims split from to much weight/pressure.
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck & Mary Boros" <elmerfletcher@yahoo.com>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Correct Tire Pressure


: Hi Russ,
: To me, it is kind of a play with words. I read it both ways. The maximum cold
pressure that is recommended, but the minimun cold pressure to carry the maxium load.
With that in mind, one also has to take into count the maximum pressure that is stamped on
most rims. If I remember correctly, the maximum cold pressure on my tires is 125 lbs.
The rims state 120 lbs. Interesting. Chuck B
:
: Russ Waterhouse <mredsel890@earthlink.net> wrote:
: To me, the side wall reads Maximum pressure for Maximum load, Increasing the
tire pressure
: beyond the Max pressure is asking for trouble. As is overloading the tires.
: Russ
: ----- Original Message -----
: From: "cbgramp" <cbgramps@embarqmail.com>
: To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
: Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 8:55 AM
: Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Correct Tire Pressure
:
:: Not really. The 110 psi is the minimum pressure requiered to carry
:: the maximum load. You can increase the pressure beyond 110 psi but it
:: will not increase the carrying capacity of the tire. Of course,
:: hopefully, you won't need the maximum carrying capacity of the tires
:: so you can carry less pressure and get the job done.
::
:: Charlie
:: 1999 Tradewinds
::
:: --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, Chuck & Mary Boros
:: <elmerfletcher@...> wrote:
:: >
:: > The 110 psi cold is the maxium COLD pressure you can put into the
:: tires. As you drive down the blvd, the heat from the tires rolling
:: will increase that pressure. That is why Goodyear wants you to use
:: the cold pressure figures at the beginning of each day. The duals on
:: the rear need to be within one or so lbs from each other or one tire
:: will run hotter than the other. I'm sure someone will chime in about
:: road crown.
:: >
:: > You need to load your coach with all your goodies,the DW, fill
:: your diesel tank, propane and fresh water tanks. Then go weigh your
:: coach. Goodyear has a chart on what tire pressure you need to use
:: for each axle. You can probably find that chart on line.
:: > You never did say what size tires you had. Chuck B
:: >
:: > raasfarm <raasfarm@...> wrote:
:: > I recently purchased a 2006 Gulfstream Friendship G7
:: motorhome on the
:: > Freightliner chassis. What is the correct air pressure? The tire
:: > manufacturer, Goodyear, has 110 psi cold.
:: >
:: >
:: >
:: >
:: >
:: >
:: > Chuck & Mary Boros
:: > 04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
:: > Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat
:: >
:: > ---------------------------------
:: > Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
:: >
:: > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
:: >
::
::
::
::
:: --------------------------------------------
:: Off-topic posts will be removed.
:: Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.
::
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:: Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
::
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::
::
::
::
:
:
:
:
:
:
: Chuck & Mary Boros
: 04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
: Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat
:
: ---------------------------------
: Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
:
: [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
:
:
:
: --------------------------------------------
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:
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:
:
:
:

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[diesel_mercedes] Link to photos

OOps,
I hope this is the direct link.
Otherwise, they're posted under "Henry's cars".

http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/photos/browse/a48d



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[diesel_mercedes] Pictures

Hi all,
I couldn't help it.
I got all my cars in one place, at one time, running.......(well, er......)

Anyway,
I thought I'd post a few pics on the group photo page, before I have to thin
the heard.
I just can't figure how to do that........I like them all......

Just thought I'd share......

Henry


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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: House WATER PUMPS

CORRECT Jim,
Sometimes the air head space in the top of a water can go away and be replaced with water. When water is heated, it expands. If there is no air space to expand, it has to go somewhere. Ever see a weeping PTR valve leaking water? Re establish the air space in the tank and the weeping stops. If one does not have a accumulator tank, the pressure is then on the water pump. Chuck B

JIM FLUCKEY <jflu653@cox.net> wrote:
All, I feel I must chime in and maybe shed some light on the accumulator
issue. Water is not compressable to any reasonable extent, therefor as
heated water expands some means of allowing this extra volume to go
somewhere must be built into the system. The air space in the water heater
is there for this reason. True, the increased pressure is in the whole
system but the air space gives the non-compressable water somewher to go.
Jim & Sally Fluckey
2001 40' Allegro Bus
Jeep Liberty 4X4 toad
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Brinck" <gbrinck@cfl.rr.com>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 4:14 PM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: House WATER PUMPS

> Not sure what your point is, Chuck. I'm not arguing with you about Shurflo
> failures and I AGREED that back pressure is a problem that Shurflo had to
> deal with. The only point I was trying to make is that the air head in the
> tank that was alluded to in your earlier post neither causes nor
> alleviates back pressure from the hot water tank - the back pressure is
> there just the same whether there is a air head or not. The same would
> apply to the air head in an accumulator, which is probably why they don't
> recommend that either.
>
> Am not trying to be argumentative - just clarifying the effect of an air
> head in the system.
>
>
>
>> Gary,
>> Shurflo warranty's their high end Smart Sensor pumps for 3 years. They
>> were
>> experiencing a excessive failure rate of damage to the internal pump from
>> back flow pressure. They do not recommend the need for using a
>> accumulator
>> tank with that pump. Their studies and testings found that that the the
>> pumps
>> that failed came off RV's with hot water heaters as opposed to RV's that
>> were
>> equipped with Aqua/Hydro hot systems. Because of replacing pumps under
>> warranty, Shurflo had to either quit making the Smart Sensor pumps or
>> correct
>> the situation be redesign. They chose the latter. I had several
>> discussions
>> withn their engineers on the phone and at the last FMCA International
>> rally.
>> That is their answer.
>> Therefore it appears that you are shooting from the hip trying to make
>> your
>> point. Chuck B
>
>
> Gary
> --
> Gary & Nancy Brinck
> 2004 American Tradition 40V
> 2007 GMC Acadia
>
>
> --------------------------------------------
> Off-topic posts will be removed.
> Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model
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>


Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

---------------------------------
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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: House WATER PUMPS

All, I feel I must chime in and maybe shed some light on the accumulator
issue. Water is not compressable to any reasonable extent, therefor as
heated water expands some means of allowing this extra volume to go
somewhere must be built into the system. The air space in the water heater
is there for this reason. True, the increased pressure is in the whole
system but the air space gives the non-compressable water somewher to go.
Jim & Sally Fluckey
2001 40' Allegro Bus
Jeep Liberty 4X4 toad
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Brinck" <gbrinck@cfl.rr.com>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 4:14 PM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: House WATER PUMPS


> Not sure what your point is, Chuck. I'm not arguing with you about Shurflo
> failures and I AGREED that back pressure is a problem that Shurflo had to
> deal with. The only point I was trying to make is that the air head in the
> tank that was alluded to in your earlier post neither causes nor
> alleviates back pressure from the hot water tank - the back pressure is
> there just the same whether there is a air head or not. The same would
> apply to the air head in an accumulator, which is probably why they don't
> recommend that either.
>
> Am not trying to be argumentative - just clarifying the effect of an air
> head in the system.
>
>
>
>> Gary,
>> Shurflo warranty's their high end Smart Sensor pumps for 3 years. They
>> were
>> experiencing a excessive failure rate of damage to the internal pump from
>> back flow pressure. They do not recommend the need for using a
>> accumulator
>> tank with that pump. Their studies and testings found that that the the
>> pumps
>> that failed came off RV's with hot water heaters as opposed to RV's that
>> were
>> equipped with Aqua/Hydro hot systems. Because of replacing pumps under
>> warranty, Shurflo had to either quit making the Smart Sensor pumps or
>> correct
>> the situation be redesign. They chose the latter. I had several
>> discussions
>> withn their engineers on the phone and at the last FMCA International
>> rally.
>> That is their answer.
>> Therefore it appears that you are shooting from the hip trying to make
>> your
>> point. Chuck B
>
>
> Gary
> --
> Gary & Nancy Brinck
> 2004 American Tradition 40V
> 2007 GMC Acadia
>
>
> --------------------------------------------
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>
>
>

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: House WATER PUMPS

Gary,
Give Shurflo a call and argue your point with them. I'm just the messanger. Chuck B

Gary Brinck <gbrinck@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
Not sure what your point is, Chuck. I'm not arguing with you about Shurflo failures and I AGREED that back pressure is a problem that Shurflo had to deal with. The only point I was trying to make is that the air head in the tank that was alluded to in your earlier post neither causes nor alleviates back pressure from the hot water tank - the back pressure is there just the same whether there is a air head or not. The same would apply to the air head in an accumulator, which is probably why they don't recommend that either.

Am not trying to be argumentative - just clarifying the effect of an air head in the system.

> Gary,
> Shurflo warranty's their high end Smart Sensor pumps for 3 years. They were
> experiencing a excessive failure rate of damage to the internal pump from
> back flow pressure. They do not recommend the need for using a accumulator
> tank with that pump. Their studies and testings found that that the the pumps
> that failed came off RV's with hot water heaters as opposed to RV's that were
> equipped with Aqua/Hydro hot systems. Because of replacing pumps under
> warranty, Shurflo had to either quit making the Smart Sensor pumps or correct
> the situation be redesign. They chose the latter. I had several discussions
> withn their engineers on the phone and at the last FMCA International rally.
> That is their answer.
> Therefore it appears that you are shooting from the hip trying to make your
> point. Chuck B

Gary
--
Gary & Nancy Brinck
2004 American Tradition 40V
2007 GMC Acadia



Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: House WATER PUMPS

Not sure what your point is, Chuck. I'm not arguing with you about Shurflo failures and I AGREED that back pressure is a problem that Shurflo had to deal with. The only point I was trying to make is that the air head in the tank that was alluded to in your earlier post neither causes nor alleviates back pressure from the hot water tank - the back pressure is there just the same whether there is a air head or not. The same would apply to the air head in an accumulator, which is probably why they don't recommend that either.

Am not trying to be argumentative - just clarifying the effect of an air head in the system.

> Gary,
> Shurflo warranty's their high end Smart Sensor pumps for 3 years. They were
> experiencing a excessive failure rate of damage to the internal pump from
> back flow pressure. They do not recommend the need for using a accumulator
> tank with that pump. Their studies and testings found that that the the pumps
> that failed came off RV's with hot water heaters as opposed to RV's that were
> equipped with Aqua/Hydro hot systems. Because of replacing pumps under
> warranty, Shurflo had to either quit making the Smart Sensor pumps or correct
> the situation be redesign. They chose the latter. I had several discussions
> withn their engineers on the phone and at the last FMCA International rally.
> That is their answer.
> Therefore it appears that you are shooting from the hip trying to make your
> point. Chuck B


Gary
--
Gary & Nancy Brinck
2004 American Tradition 40V
2007 GMC Acadia


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Pulling a trailer with 240D

hey I just called u-haul about installing a hitch on my 240D. They
said they did not have one for the 240D. Has anyone installed a
u-haul hitch on there 240D, I thought someone said they had?

Steve

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "n61cm" <jim@...> wrote:
>
> U-Haul can probably install a hitch for you. I have had them install
> hitches on two of my vehicles and they have been excellent and a
> decent price. Not all U-Hauls do it but if you call around you can
> find one that specializes in it. They'll do 8 or 10 a day. You get
> an appointment, and a guy who does nothing but install hitches all day
>


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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: House WATER PUMPS

Hi Ken,
You bet, time to put this puppy to rest as far as I am concerned. I am standing back to watch all the folks who want to dot the " I's" and cross the " T's". Chuck B

Ken Wildman <k-wildman@onu.edu> wrote:
--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, Chuck & Mary Boros
<elmerfletcher@...> wrote:
>
Their studies and testings found that that the the pumps that failed
came off RV's with hot water heaters Chuck B
>

A question. Where do they get the hot water for the hot water heater
to heat?

Personally I prefer either a cold water heater, or just the simple
water heater.

<grin><grin><grin>


Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

---------------------------------
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Cold Weather Starting Regimine

Today 9 degrees started floored.617 w126

Jeff Fennema <jeffcosmo@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
You forgot to tell him that today we had icy cold rain, hail, and snow down to 2000 feet closing the grapevine and mountain roads with truckers pulled over for the night. So much for our sunny reputation.

brian
Today t'was -5 ÂşF when I left for work, and just 10 ÂşF when I returned home. That's so cold that the ice is not slippery anymore and the snow creaks when you walk on it.
It was so cold that I saw a Chicago Alderman with his hands in his OWN pockets...(Wasn't Tunney, his hands are still in...umm, never mind...)
Jeff


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Cold Weather Starting Regimine

You forgot to tell him that today we had icy cold rain, hail, and snow down to 2000 feet closing the grapevine and mountain roads with truckers pulled over for the night. So much for our sunny reputation.

brian
Today t'was -5 ÂşF when I left for work, and just 10 ÂşF when I returned home. That's so cold that the ice is not slippery anymore and the snow creaks when you walk on it.
It was so cold that I saw a Chicago Alderman with his hands in his OWN pockets...(Wasn't Tunney, his hands are still in...umm, never mind...)
Jeff
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[Diesel-RVs] Re: House WATER PUMPS

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, Chuck & Mary Boros
<elmerfletcher@...> wrote:
>
Their studies and testings found that that the the pumps that failed
came off RV's with hot water heaters Chuck B
>


A question. Where do they get the hot water for the hot water heater
to heat?

Personally I prefer either a cold water heater, or just the simple
water heater.

<grin><grin><grin>

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Mechanic in St. Pete

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com,
To expand on Dave's reply, Southeast Power Systems, 6515 Adamo Dr.
Tampa Fl. Michael Franke service Director 1-813-623-1551.

Dave Head <v8q@...> wrote:
>
> Southeast Power
>
> Len Silva wrote:
> > I am moving from the Gainesville Fl area where I have a good mechanic
> > that I trust to St Pete where I don't know anyone. Looking for
someone
> > willing and able to work on an older Dodge diesel pickup. I don't
need
> > any work right now, just trying to line someone up.
> >
> > The big truck shops don't like to work on small trucks and the
average
> > auto shop can't even spell diesel.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Len Silva
> >
> >
> >
> > --------------------------------------------
> > Off-topic posts will be removed.
> > Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the
RV model you have.
> >
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> > Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>


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RE: [Diesel-RVs] Correct Tire Pressure

When I had my tire blow out, due to a nail hole which was plugged the wrong
way,

the monitor warned me in time, and further damage was prevented. The repair

was only $35 bucks.

Joerg (1998 HD rambler Imperial)

_____

From: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Chuck & Mary Boros
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 3:23 PM
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Correct Tire Pressure

Hi Richard,
The reason for the tire pressure chart is if your coach is NOT loaded
without enough weight to have to maintain the max cold pressure, the chart
gives you values for lowering the cold tire pressure to match the loaded
weight thus giving you a smoother ride. In your case, if you do not know
each axle weight of your coach and can adjust using the chart, you need to
air up to the max cold pressure on the tire sidewalls to be safe. Then check
the pressures each day while the tires are still cold before starting out.
Blow outs due to tire failure are a real pain in the petut not to mention
the expense, damage, and stress that they cause.
Chuck B

Richard Abell <raasfarm@gmail. <mailto:raasfarm%40gmail.com> com> wrote:
Thanks, I was going to do that at the local farm center. Should I add a
little for long road trips?

On Jan 24, 2008 1:16 PM, V Starkey <bs1917@yahoo.
<mailto:bs1917%40yahoo.com> com> wrote:

> Your tire pressure is directly related to your load on
> the coach, wheel or side. You need to load your coach
> with what you need to carry. Get it weighted. Total
> for the coach and then each wheel. Then you determine
> tire pressure for the tires.
>
> --- raasfarm <raasfarm@gmail. <mailto:raasfarm%40gmail.com> com
<raasfarm%40gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> > I recently purchased a 2006 Gulfstream Friendship G7
> > motorhome on the
> > Freightliner chassis. What is the correct air
> > pressure? The tire
> > manufacturer, Goodyear, has 110 psi cold.
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
> http://mobile.
<http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ>
yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

---------------------------------
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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Correct Tire Pressure

Hi Richard,
The reason for the tire pressure chart is if your coach is NOT loaded without enough weight to have to maintain the max cold pressure, the chart gives you values for lowering the cold tire pressure to match the loaded weight thus giving you a smoother ride. In your case, if you do not know each axle weight of your coach and can adjust using the chart, you need to air up to the max cold pressure on the tire sidewalls to be safe. Then check the pressures each day while the tires are still cold before starting out. Blow outs due to tire failure are a real pain in the petut not to mention the expense, damage, and stress that they cause.
Chuck B

Richard Abell <raasfarm@gmail.com> wrote:
Thanks, I was going to do that at the local farm center. Should I add a
little for long road trips?

On Jan 24, 2008 1:16 PM, V Starkey <bs1917@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Your tire pressure is directly related to your load on
> the coach, wheel or side. You need to load your coach
> with what you need to carry. Get it weighted. Total
> for the coach and then each wheel. Then you determine
> tire pressure for the tires.
>
> --- raasfarm <raasfarm@gmail.com <raasfarm%40gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> > I recently purchased a 2006 Gulfstream Friendship G7
> > motorhome on the
> > Freightliner chassis. What is the correct air
> > pressure? The tire
> > manufacturer, Goodyear, has 110 psi cold.
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

---------------------------------
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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Correct Tire Pressure

Hi Russ,
To me, it is kind of a play with words. I read it both ways. The maximum cold pressure that is recommended, but the minimun cold pressure to carry the maxium load. With that in mind, one also has to take into count the maximum pressure that is stamped on most rims. If I remember correctly, the maximum cold pressure on my tires is 125 lbs. The rims state 120 lbs. Interesting. Chuck B

Russ Waterhouse <mredsel890@earthlink.net> wrote:
To me, the side wall reads Maximum pressure for Maximum load, Increasing the tire pressure
beyond the Max pressure is asking for trouble. As is overloading the tires.
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: "cbgramp" <cbgramps@embarqmail.com>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 8:55 AM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Correct Tire Pressure

: Not really. The 110 psi is the minimum pressure requiered to carry
: the maximum load. You can increase the pressure beyond 110 psi but it
: will not increase the carrying capacity of the tire. Of course,
: hopefully, you won't need the maximum carrying capacity of the tires
: so you can carry less pressure and get the job done.
:
: Charlie
: 1999 Tradewinds
:
: --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, Chuck & Mary Boros
: <elmerfletcher@...> wrote:
: >
: > The 110 psi cold is the maxium COLD pressure you can put into the
: tires. As you drive down the blvd, the heat from the tires rolling
: will increase that pressure. That is why Goodyear wants you to use
: the cold pressure figures at the beginning of each day. The duals on
: the rear need to be within one or so lbs from each other or one tire
: will run hotter than the other. I'm sure someone will chime in about
: road crown.
: >
: > You need to load your coach with all your goodies,the DW, fill
: your diesel tank, propane and fresh water tanks. Then go weigh your
: coach. Goodyear has a chart on what tire pressure you need to use
: for each axle. You can probably find that chart on line.
: > You never did say what size tires you had. Chuck B
: >
: > raasfarm <raasfarm@...> wrote:
: > I recently purchased a 2006 Gulfstream Friendship G7
: motorhome on the
: > Freightliner chassis. What is the correct air pressure? The tire
: > manufacturer, Goodyear, has 110 psi cold.
: >
: >
: >
: >
: >
: >
: > Chuck & Mary Boros
: > 04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
: > Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat
: >
: > ---------------------------------
: > Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
: >
: > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
: >
:
:
:
:
: --------------------------------------------
: Off-topic posts will be removed.
: Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.
:
: To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
: Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
:
: Yahoo! Groups Links
:
:
:
:


Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

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RE: [Diesel-RVs] Correct Tire Pressure

Nope!!!! .because your tires WILL heat up especially on long trips

up to 140psi, sometimes more depending on the surface of the road.

As Russ mentioned, the manufacturer calculated this fact already

in. If you put more pressure in the tires in cold condition it WILL exceed

the limits. I would recommend a pressure monitor. Put it in your cockpit,

well visible, and you know what is going on with your tire pressure at all
times.

I blew out the inner of one of my rear double tires once. I didn't feel a
thing.

The pressure monitor warned me. Without it, the next turn would have flipped
the

Rig over.

Joerg (1998 HD Rambler Imperial)

_____

From: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Richard Abell
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 2:33 PM
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Correct Tire Pressure

Thanks, I was going to do that at the local farm center. Should I add a
little for long road trips?

On Jan 24, 2008 1:16 PM, V Starkey <bs1917@yahoo.
<mailto:bs1917%40yahoo.com> com> wrote:

> Your tire pressure is directly related to your load on
> the coach, wheel or side. You need to load your coach
> with what you need to carry. Get it weighted. Total
> for the coach and then each wheel. Then you determine
> tire pressure for the tires.
>
> --- raasfarm <raasfarm@gmail. <mailto:raasfarm%40gmail.com> com
<raasfarm%40gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> > I recently purchased a 2006 Gulfstream Friendship G7
> > motorhome on the
> > Freightliner chassis. What is the correct air
> > pressure? The tire
> > manufacturer, Goodyear, has 110 psi cold.
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
> http://mobile.
<http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ>
yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>
>
>

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Correct Tire Pressure

Thanks, I was going to do that at the local farm center. Should I add a
little for long road trips?

On Jan 24, 2008 1:16 PM, V Starkey <bs1917@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Your tire pressure is directly related to your load on
> the coach, wheel or side. You need to load your coach
> with what you need to carry. Get it weighted. Total
> for the coach and then each wheel. Then you determine
> tire pressure for the tires.
>
> --- raasfarm <raasfarm@gmail.com <raasfarm%40gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> > I recently purchased a 2006 Gulfstream Friendship G7
> > motorhome on the
> > Freightliner chassis. What is the correct air
> > pressure? The tire
> > manufacturer, Goodyear, has 110 psi cold.
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Correct Tire Pressure

Yes, the heat of the road and friction will do it, to all tires. But you do not want to
start with higher pressure because it will do the same thing, only go beyond the tires
limits. The manufacturers know how much pressure the tires develop, and have adjusted the
max pressure accordingly.
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joerg M. Meyer" <Joergm@comcast.net>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 10:53 AM
Subject: RE: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Correct Tire Pressure


: Russ, yes, 110 psi is the max cold tire pressure, but it goes up while
: driving
:
: to 140psi easily. How do I know? I have one of these Pressure Pro tire
: pressure
:
: monitors. That thing saved my life once. It is worth every penny.
:
:
:
: Joerg (1998 HD Rambler Imperial)
:
:
:
: _____
:
: From: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com] On
: Behalf Of Russ Waterhouse
: Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 1:41 PM
: To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
: Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Correct Tire Pressure
:
:
:
: To me, the side wall reads Maximum pressure for Maximum load, Increasing the
: tire pressure
: beyond the Max pressure is asking for trouble. As is overloading the tires.
: Russ
: ----- Original Message -----
: From: "cbgramp" <cbgramps@embarqmail <mailto:cbgramps%40embarqmail.com>
: .com>
: To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogro <mailto:Diesel-RVs%40yahoogroups.com> ups.com>
: Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 8:55 AM
: Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Correct Tire Pressure
:
:: Not really. The 110 psi is the minimum pressure requiered to carry
:: the maximum load. You can increase the pressure beyond 110 psi but it
:: will not increase the carrying capacity of the tire. Of course,
:: hopefully, you won't need the maximum carrying capacity of the tires
:: so you can carry less pressure and get the job done.
::
:: Charlie
:: 1999 Tradewinds
::
:: --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogro <mailto:Diesel-RVs%40yahoogroups.com> ups.com,
: Chuck & Mary Boros
:: <elmerfletcher@...> wrote:
:: >
:: > The 110 psi cold is the maxium COLD pressure you can put into the
:: tires. As you drive down the blvd, the heat from the tires rolling
:: will increase that pressure. That is why Goodyear wants you to use
:: the cold pressure figures at the beginning of each day. The duals on
:: the rear need to be within one or so lbs from each other or one tire
:: will run hotter than the other. I'm sure someone will chime in about
:: road crown.
:: >
:: > You need to load your coach with all your goodies,the DW, fill
:: your diesel tank, propane and fresh water tanks. Then go weigh your
:: coach. Goodyear has a chart on what tire pressure you need to use
:: for each axle. You can probably find that chart on line.
:: > You never did say what size tires you had. Chuck B
:: >
:: > raasfarm <raasfarm@...> wrote:
:: > I recently purchased a 2006 Gulfstream Friendship G7
:: motorhome on the
:: > Freightliner chassis. What is the correct air pressure? The tire
:: > manufacturer, Goodyear, has 110 psi cold.
:: >
:: >
:: >
:: >
:: >
:: >
:: > Chuck & Mary Boros
:: > 04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
:: > Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat
:: >
:: > ---------------------------------
:: > Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
:: >
:: > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
:: >
::
::
::
::
:: --------------------------------------------
:: Off-topic posts will be removed.
:: Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model
: you have.
::
:: To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
:: Diesel-RVs-unsubscr <mailto:Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe%40egroups.com>
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