Diesel RVs: 01/28/08

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Possible Stuck Valve

It's possible you got a bad replacement glowplug. It could happen. Or being in
the middle cylinder it could have broken when it was installed. I've done that
on that particular cylinder - several times before I got wise.

But before you assume the worst . . .

Try pulling the glowplug and the injector and see if you can see anything loose
inside the prechamber first. You know - something that might be clogging the
holes in a one-way-valve sort of way.

Crank it several revolutions, without the glowplug and injector, to blow
anything (like an old glowplug loop segment) that might be in there out of
there.

Valves are FORCED open and allowed to close. So "sticking" closed is a very
unlikely explaination unless 1)the valve is horribly out of adjustment (loose)
or 2)that particular cam is ground down to a circle. Pull the cover and give it
a good look-see.

And if it's opening late, then the mis-shapen cam for that valve will be
apparent if you look closely enough.

But so far none of this requires pulling the head.

Certainly a compression check is warranted.

But don't go for the throat when a slap in the face will do.

Bogy.

--- BStromsoe <bstromsoe@yahoo.com> wrote:

> No matter what your problem is - it is time to take the head off and eyeball
> things.
>
> brian
>
> babytoelint <babytoelint@yahoo.com> wrote: I
> think that the exhaust valve on my 1977 240D is either sticking
> closed or opening late.
>
> The symptom: The center of the glow plug on the number three cylinder
> blows out of the body of the plug. The first time that it happened, I
> figured that it was just an old plug that did not make it until I
> planned on changing it. Now a new plug has blown out.
>
> The only thing that i can think of would be the exhaust valve sticking
> closed or opening late.
>
> I am planning on replacing the timing chain, since I do not know when
> the previous owners did that last.
>
> Any other ideas that I should look at, before pulling the head to get
> at the valves?
>
> brian from la verne, ca
>

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RE: [Diesel-RVs] Used DP - not used much- Thanks everyone

Thanks to everyone who posted their comments on my question. All the
responses were very helpful in making up a checklist.

Diane/John

----- Original Message -----
From: dknig288@comcast.net
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Used DP - not used much

I am sure that others will have a much longer list of items but, I would
want to check out:

Refrigerator to make sure that it works on all settings (AC, DC, and
propane) if it uses all three.
Water pump -- make sure it is working
Hot water heater -- make sure it heats on all sources (AC, propane) and
lights correctly on propane.
AC -- comes on and is cooling
Heater -- comes on and is working correctly
Run the generator and make sure it is working correctly
Would like to see all of the oil changes, air filter changes, etc -- the
maintance records for the engine, generator, and the transmission.
Check all lights in the coach and in the luggage compartments
Check the "auto" part of the air conditioning
Also have maintance records for any "fixes" (slides, leaks, etc) been
maintained.
Look inside of the coach for any signs of water leaks (discolored ceiling,
etc.)
How old are batteries in the coach.

Again, I am sure that others will have a better listing of items to check
but, this is a list that I would start with.

--
Dave Knight
dknig288@comcast.net
Hook'em Horns 1969

-------------- Original message --------------
From: "fleurdane@iscweb.com" <fleurdane@iscweb.com>

> Hi,
> We were looking at an used diesel pusher (02 Monaco) and
> it has very few miles on it with the owner only going 2,000
> miles a year or less. I believe maybe only on or two trips a
> year.
>
> Other than the tires sitting and not being used, what
> other components should we view with caution/and or
> inspected on a coach that has been rarely used?
>
> John/Diane

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[Diesel-RVs] Battery Shutoff

I was just visiting a show in Quartzite and found that most of the new
Winnebago brand have battery disconnects on the starting batteries. I want
one. Anybody have a contact? This is a nice setup.
SF

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Transmission gives up. I win.

Yeah, they're small, but they're tough li'l lumps. They were used on every model car MB made in the mid- to late-'70s, including the 450SE/L, which had a lot more power in Europe than the ones we got here. The only exception may be the 450SEL 6.9. And no, there're no B And M, Transgo or Mr Shift kits available. You're just not going to get that bark going into third....

I like the BulkPart transmission kits:

http://www.bulkpart.com/

the parts for yours are listed here:

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=2&Category_Code=722-1

These kits are unusually complete, and include more seals and steel rings than you will need. They have the pan and valve body gaskets, too, which Ma sells seperately. They come with a piece of paper listing tightening torques, cleareances and commonly-needed MB part numbers (like the various sized band anchor pins). They even include the plastic bits which hold those pins for the middle and rear bands, which invariably break as you disassemble the transmission. After 30-some years and uncountable heat/cold cycles, they're pretty brittle.

As to which of the kits to get, it's going to depend on what you find when you take yours apart. Was there solid matter on the bottom of the pan? Any metal bits, beyond tiny metalics? As I recall, yours just died, in the middle of an intersection. That makes me think something solid and metal broke, and you're going to need to get parts from a place that breaks down transmissons and sells used parts. Or get a parts tranny from the salvage yards..

You'll need to get into the clutch packs to determine if you need new discs. On my 300,000 mile '79 300SD, there was no indication at the bottom of the pan of worn clutches, but a couple of the friction discs in the forward clutch were down to the metal. There should be .040" to .060" clearance in each of the clutch packs. Anything more than that, and you'll definately need the kit with the friction discs.

Check the bands, too. There are oil grooves that run inside of them. If the grooves sort of disappear at the ends of the bands, where they clamp together, they will need to be replaced. If your fingernail can easily prick the friction material from the steel banding, they'll need to be replaced. The center and rear bands are not adjustable by conventional means; you must change the little anchoring pins, available in different lengths. There should be 2 mm to 4 mm play in the bands..

Think twice about replacing the valve body gasket. It's usually dry and brittle, and should be replaced. BUT, there're a BUNCH of small steel and plastic balls, and some very small valves and springs located between the three(!!) sections of the valve body. They LOVE to pop out and roll all over. And getting them back in is a trick. Don't go in there unless you have a diagram of some sort to refer to. I used a copy of the page showing an exploded view of the valve body found in the multi-make transmission repair manual at the Denver Public Library. (Sorry I can't remember the publisher. These manuals are fantastic. Generally black and gold cover. Not Chilton's, Clymer's, Haynes,... I'll have to go the shop and look at one to remember....)

I don't know of any on-line manuals. There used to be an ATSG paper manual on these, but it's now out of print. I've never seen one. Nor have I ever seen the factory manual. Maybe on E-bay? I take a LOT of photos as I take the transmissions apart, and lay out everything the way they came out. I use a felt pen to number or label things, too.

You'll need to get the nut which bolts the flange to the output shaft. The original one takes a special socket. I don't have this socket, and end up using a chisel to get it off, which ruins it. Fortunately, Rusty's place:

www.buymbparts.com

sells these, and the new ones use a conventional 12-point socket. He also has some of the bronze, spacer-bushings, which I like to replace, too.

That's all I can think of, for now. Hopefully, I've answered your questions, and this information is worth something more than what you paid for it. You'll just have to start tearing into your transmission, and write back when something arises.

Mark in Fort Collins, CO

-----Original Message-----
From: Lawrence Rhodes
Sent: Jan 28, 2008 6:28 PM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Transmission gives up. I win.

Got the tranny out of my 1977 240D (not much to it is there. Smallish
tranny). Now which kit should I get to put in? Is there a racing kit(haha
a little joke) I'd certainly like to do a good job. Is there any spring
balancing or shimming on this early mechanical advance automatic???? Thanks
for any info & you guys have been a great help as well as the Mercedesshop
site. Is there a rebuild manual on line? Lawrence Rhodes....

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Possible Stuck Valve

Considering how much carbon came out of there when I changed the glow
plugs, that might be possible.

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Eric Ditwiler
<Eric_Ditwiler@...> wrote:
>
> or a clogged prechamber
>
> Eric Ditwiler
>
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Possible Stuck Valve

It is not melted away. I had one of those. It is gone, as in the
entire center section, along with the insulator-cap and the nut that
secures the glow plug lead.

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Love & Marriage & lotsa kids

Brian, I LOVE that photo! 'Reminds me of the 9-mos in '68-'69 when we lived in Rohnert Park. We had a '64 Peugeot 404 wagon, same color as your VW. We have a photo of it at Yosemite, too I was eight-years-old at the time....

Mark in Fort Collins, CO

-----Original Message-----
From: BStromsoe
Sent: Jan 28, 2008 3:09 PM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Love & Marriage & lotsa kids

Nate - here is the 70 Van - on this trip I asked my wife to marry me. That got me through my third year of law school. Then six kids later I sold it to a neighborhood kid cause I had to get a Dodge Maxi Van to haul the brood around.

http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/photos/view/d379?b=11

brian

vwnate1 <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:

Was your VW ' Station Wagon ' , a Typ II (Bus) or a Typ III ?
(Squareback) .

-Nate
Brian wrote:
>
> I had 66 and 68 VW's and a 70 Wagon, but I would never buy a car
named "Rabbit" Of course that seems strange coming from someone who
thought nothing of buying "Beetles"
>
> brian
>
> vwnate1 <vwnate1@...> wrote:
> BTW : that was a _two_door_ Diesel Rabbit , and those things
didn't
> have enough power to pull a greasy string out of a cat's a$$ .
>
> BOTH my brothers bought Diesel Rabbits when they came out , they
> were such wretched little cars is why I resisted trying a Diesel
for
> so many years .
>
> Who knew ? (my brothers of course) .
>
> -Nate
> Tom wrote:
> >
> > These stories make an old man start to get nostalgic.
> >
> > Back in 1980, the network made me an offer. So I moved
from
> Boston to
> > Burbank. My driver was a 1977 non-turbo diesel Rabbit. I had
a
> hitch put on
> > it then went and got the biggest box trailer JarTran (remember
> them) would
> > rent me.
> >
> > That Rabbit hauled that JarTran trailer, with most of what
I
> owned in
> > it, accross the country from Boston to Burbank. The little
> Rabbit towing the
> > big JarTran looked like a semitrailer rig that got washed in
hot
> water and
> > shrunk down. It got laughed at every time I pulled into a
truck
> stop to fuel
> > up.
> >
> > But it came across the country, over every mountain range
(at
> about the
> > same pace as some of the big rigs). I'm sure that VW would
never
> have
> > approved of towing that size or weight of trailer. Averaged
> about 30 mpg on that
> > trip.
> >
> > That little Rabbit lasted for years after that adventure.
> >
> > If the VW could do it, I expect that our benz's can do it.
> The hitch on
> > my '81 SD is a class I, bolted through the belly pan of the
> trunk. The real
> > problem with it is my rear is too low, and the hitch drags on
> road dips and
> > curb crossings.
> >
> > Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>
> brian from la verne, ca
>
> ---------------------------------
> Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo!
Search.
>

brian from la verne, ca

Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: fuel filter woes

Verify fuel is getting to the injectors. Loosen the 17 mm nuts holding the lines to them, and crank it with the fuel (gas) pedal to the floor for about half a minute or so. You should see fuel bubbling at the connection. If you're getting fuel there, something else is amiss. If you aren't, keep cranking with the pedal to the floor until you do get fuel there. Work the starter for no more than 2 minutes at a time, resting for at least one minute. If after 3 attempts there's still no fuel at the injectors, go back to square one and verify fuel is circulating through the injection pump. I'm pretty sure you have air in the injector lines.

Mark in Fort Collins, CO

-----Original Message-----
From: jefftino
Sent: Jan 28, 2008 6:57 PM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: fuel filter woes

I went out there tonight and cranked the engine over three times,
short bursts, so i don't ruin this starter. Hasn't started. The
black stuff looked like tiny, tiny sharp pieces of fuel hose. I
bought 3 gallons of B20 awhile ago. I would like to run biodiesel.It
ran fine on B20. No starting problems till the fuel replacements. So
should I try to prime it again or keep cranking it?

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Nate Rector
<tccservice111@...> wrote:
>
> You loosen the top filter bolt enough to spin off filter.I fill the
new filter with Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil to clean injection.That
way no need to prime.I check and clean primary every 250 miles when I
have the little black stuff,and blow the line back to the tank to
clear the screen.
>
> jefftino <jefftino@...> wrote: Hi all,
>
> I was checking the filters on my 300D and noticed dark stuff in the
> small filter. I changed this filter and the one that looks like a oil
> filter. I know about priming the system and I did that. However I
> could not get the car started. This caused the starter to go and I
> finally got a replacement in there. Whew! That top bolt is tough to
> get out but I used a 20" extension and a knuckle (3/8" drive). I just
> got it in and I got it to crank. So I am pretty happy at the moment.
>
> So back to priming. When I did this, I first loosened the large spin
> on filter and began to use the hand pump. Fuel came out of the filter
> and also the pump body itself. Is this right? Could some one list
> the proper way to prime. In the manual it says your basically
> listening for air to escape but no mention of fuel flooding out the
> pump. And how often and how long to crank the starter?
> Thanks!
> Jeff
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo!
Search.
>

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Possible Stuck Valve

By "blow out", do you mean it is completely gone? Does it look like it melted away, and what's left has melted ends?

I had a similar problem with the number 5 cylinder on my '77 300D. After I replaced it the second time, it stopped doing that. The theory is that something was in the pre-chamber, something metal, that was grounding out the loop tip of the glow plug, and causing it to burn off. In my case, whatever it was, finally worked it's way out of the engine. It was fine up until I installed pencil-style glow plugs using the Diesel Giant adapter kit. Then, it was FANTASTIC! It now starts quicker than most gassers, even in severe cold.

Anyway, I doubt you have a bad valve causing destruction to the glow plug. You can check valve condition with a compression tester to verify, though. An exhaust valve can't stick closed, unless you have some real problems with the camshaft or valve train...

Mark in Fort Collins, CO

-----Original Message-----
From: babytoelint
Sent: Jan 28, 2008 6:12 PM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Possible Stuck Valve

I think that the exhaust valve on my 1977 240D is either sticking
closed or opening late.

The symptom: The center of the glow plug on the number three cylinder
blows out of the body of the plug. The first time that it happened, I
figured that it was just an old plug that did not make it until I
planned on changing it. Now a new plug has blown out.

The only thing that i can think of would be the exhaust valve sticking
closed or opening late.

I am planning on replacing the timing chain, since I do not know when
the previous owners did that last.

Any other ideas that I should look at, before pulling the head to get
at the valves?

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

[diesel_mercedes] Re: fuel filter woes

I went out there tonight and cranked the engine over three times,
short bursts, so i don't ruin this starter. Hasn't started. The
black stuff looked like tiny, tiny sharp pieces of fuel hose. I
bought 3 gallons of B20 awhile ago. I would like to run biodiesel.It
ran fine on B20. No starting problems till the fuel replacements. So
should I try to prime it again or keep cranking it?

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Nate Rector
<tccservice111@...> wrote:
>
> You loosen the top filter bolt enough to spin off filter.I fill the
new filter with Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil to clean injection.That
way no need to prime.I check and clean primary every 250 miles when I
have the little black stuff,and blow the line back to the tank to
clear the screen.
>
> jefftino <jefftino@...> wrote: Hi all,
>
> I was checking the filters on my 300D and noticed dark stuff in the
> small filter. I changed this filter and the one that looks like a oil
> filter. I know about priming the system and I did that. However I
> could not get the car started. This caused the starter to go and I
> finally got a replacement in there. Whew! That top bolt is tough to
> get out but I used a 20" extension and a knuckle (3/8" drive). I just
> got it in and I got it to crank. So I am pretty happy at the moment.
>
> So back to priming. When I did this, I first loosened the large spin
> on filter and began to use the hand pump. Fuel came out of the filter
> and also the pump body itself. Is this right? Could some one list
> the proper way to prime. In the manual it says your basically
> listening for air to escape but no mention of fuel flooding out the
> pump. And how often and how long to crank the starter?
> Thanks!
> Jeff
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo!
Search.
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Possible Stuck Valve

No matter what your problem is - it is time to take the head off and eyeball things.

brian

babytoelint <babytoelint@yahoo.com> wrote:

I think that the exhaust valve on my 1977 240D is either sticking
closed or opening late.

The symptom: The center of the glow plug on the number three cylinder
blows out of the body of the plug. The first time that it happened, I
figured that it was just an old plug that did not make it until I
planned on changing it. Now a new plug has blown out.

The only thing that i can think of would be the exhaust valve sticking
closed or opening late.

I am planning on replacing the timing chain, since I do not know when
the previous owners did that last.

Any other ideas that I should look at, before pulling the head to get
at the valves?

brian from la verne, ca

Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. __._,_.___

__,_._,___

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Possible Stuck Valve

or a clogged prechamber

Eric Ditwiler

On Jan 28, 2008, at 5:12 PM, babytoelint wrote:

I think that the exhaust valve on my 1977 240D is either sticking
closed or opening late.

The symptom: The center of the glow plug on the number three cylinder
blows out of the body of the plug. The first time that it happened, I
figured that it was just an old plug that did not make it until I
planned on changing it. Now a new plug has blown out.

The only thing that i can think of would be the exhaust valve sticking
closed or opening late.

I am planning on replacing the timing chain, since I do not know when
the previous owners did that last.

Any other ideas that I should look at, before pulling the head to get
at the valves?

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[diesel_mercedes] 83 240D for sale in MD

No affiliation with the seller, simply passing along a "for sale" ad...

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/car/554750614.html

--
Kevin
kevingregg@comcast.net

1992 Mercedes 300D greasecar
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kevingregg/greasecar/

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

Re: [diesel_mercedes] cold starting

Hello Karl

Yes, this helps a lot.

So, is what you have something like Fattywagons' "Tanktherm Heater"? I think I can make my own for lot less money....

http://www.fattywagons.com/fwproducts.htm

I've also been thinking of using some sort of heating pad, or would this cause condensation, too?

http://www.padheaters.com/applications.html

Mark in Fort Collins, CO

-----Original Message-----
From: Karl Järnhammer
Sent: Jan 28, 2008 2:07 AM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] cold starting

Hi Mark

I put a block heater in my oil tank but I found that it caused a lot of condensation - so I don't use it. My oil is solid for 6 months of the year but I have a home made 'hot fox'. It's just some of that easily bendable chromed copper pipe that rings around the pick up and it is the coolant that flows in the pipe that heats things up.

Hope that helps.

/KJ

Mark in Fort Collins, CO wrote:

Karl,

Do you have a heated fuel tank? If so, what do you use?

Mark in Fort Collins, CO (where the Chinooks have warmed us to over 50 degrees, F. HOT!!)

-----Original Message-----
From: Karl Järnhammer
Sent: Jan 26, 2008 9:56 AM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] cold starting

Brian

That's good advice, here's some stuff I do:

On my twin tank 300d wvo fueled Chevy van sits outside in all weathers:

First dig said vehicle out of snow drift whilst hoping that the silicone lube on the weather seals is still working so you can get the doors open, and if you locked it, that the graphite is is doing it's job. Sprinkle sand, ash and stuff on ice front and rear of wheels in case rocking momentum is required to gain momentum. Don gloves so as not to leave skin on door handle, climb in prepare to start engine.

I use a thinner winter grade motor oil between October and April because even engine oil gets thick when cold.
I've got a 240v block heater but I only use it at > -10c (when I remember and if I know there's cool coming on)! And if I can find the business end under the snow.

BUT, and this is the important thing, I've got TWO 125ah batteries, one does the glow plugs for 20-30 seconds the other spins the engine when ready. Both batteries are kept charged and I monitor this with 2 proper amp meters, and there is a facility for recharging from domestic if needed.
I know my loop glow plugs work but I am saving up for the modern kit anyway. I don't have any fancy relays, just one wire to a HD spring switch from the + pole on it's dedicated battery and one from the switch to the glowies.
Earth terminals are to chassis and engine and they are clean with copper paste protection.

BOTH the clutch and the accelerator pedals are floored and held until the engine starts, which is always on Dino or Bio diesel. It always starts straight away unless I forgot to switch something off the night before.

When the engine settles down to a tick over it's time to get out and scrape the windows which sometimes needs a heat gun to break the armor ice, which is why it's handy to have the block heater feed nearby.

It takes 4 - 7 km's before switch over to wvo, depending on the cold. The block heater makes no difference to this but there is some other stuff I may do to speed things up.
I was having trouble with starting too some years ago until I did the 2 battery thing. It stands to reason really that if you're tiring the battery first by juicing the glow plugs for a while coss it's cold, and then ask the same battery to crank a cold stiff 5 banger at speed - well, it's all a bit unreasonable really.

Best wishes
KJ

BStromsoe wrote:
1. Park it in a heated garage.
2. Put a drop cord with 100 watt bulb under the hood.
3. Ask Karl J what they do in the far north where the reindeer frolic.
4. Got to be some guys in the Michigan peninsula who have some secrets.
5. Keep a gasser for backup.
6. Keep a spare charged up battery handy.
7. Pray for an early spring.
8. Little kerosene in the tank goes a long way.
9. Check the bus routes in case you need one.

brian

Victor Granic <victorgranic@yahoo.com> wrote:

I'm thinking about driving my '85 300TD into the frigid depths of
Quebec City, Canada during mid-February. I was wondering if anyone
had any personal experience with starting a vehicle such as mine in
temperatures around -25C (-15F). I have a block heater installed and
I plan to use it but I'm not sure if that'll be enough. Any thoughts?
Would starting fluid help in addition to the block heater being
plugged in?

Thanks,

Victor

brian from la verne, ca
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[diesel_mercedes] Transmission gives up. I win.

Got the tranny out of my 1977 240D (not much to it is there. Smallish
tranny). Now which kit should I get to put in? Is there a racing kit(haha
a little joke) I'd certainly like to do a good job. Is there any spring
balancing or shimming on this early mechanical advance automatic???? Thanks
for any info & you guys have been a great help as well as the Mercedesshop
site. Is there a rebuild manual on line? Lawrence Rhodes....

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[diesel_mercedes] Possible Stuck Valve

I think that the exhaust valve on my 1977 240D is either sticking
closed or opening late.

The symptom: The center of the glow plug on the number three cylinder
blows out of the body of the plug. The first time that it happened, I
figured that it was just an old plug that did not make it until I
planned on changing it. Now a new plug has blown out.

The only thing that i can think of would be the exhaust valve sticking
closed or opening late.

I am planning on replacing the timing chain, since I do not know when
the previous owners did that last.

Any other ideas that I should look at, before pulling the head to get
at the valves?

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: LED lights on dash

Hi Russ

Thanks for the tip on Fry's. I don't know where Greg is located - he's the
one searching for the LEDs. I'm on the east coast, and I don't think there
are any Fry's around here, so I use Radio Shack.

I've used the Radio shack models I indicated. They work fine and are about
$2 to $3 each as I recall. They have the dropping resistor built in.

Fred White

In a message dated 1/28/2008 7:07:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
mredsel890@earthlink.net writes:

Fred,
Do you have a Fry's Electronics store near you. I find the guys in there are
much
more knowledgeable. I think, THINK mind you, I have seen a kit in there LED
section that
has a resistor in it, with the LED. I am not sure if this is 12 volt or 120,
AC or DC....
It was just a quick glance as I was not looking for that. I like the idea
however. On my
dash, the switches light so I do not need them, but if I add anything, the
LED will be a
must. You might try them on line... Fry's.
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: "pbe43" <_cgreg@voyager.cgr_ (mailto:cgreg@voyager.net) >
To: <_Diesel-RVs@yahoogroDiesel-_ (mailto:Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com) >
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 3:53 PM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: LED lights on dash

: Hi Fred
: Radio Shack near hear personal not to bright told me to look for them
: my self. Do you know their part number?
: Greg

**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.

http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: LED lights on dash

Fred. I hope this comes through to you. It is on Fry's site, if not, email me directly
with your email address mredsel890@earthlink.net It says it is a red 12 volt with
resistor, for the outrageous price of $0.99.
Linrose B4302H1 3/4 Led w/ Integral Resistor, 12V, TTL Compatible, Diffused Red

Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: "pbe43" <cgreg@voyager.net>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 3:53 PM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: LED lights on dash

: Hi Fred
: Radio Shack near hear personal not to bright told me to look for them
: my self. Do you know their part number?
: Greg
:
:
:
:
:
:
: -
:
:
:
: --------------------------------------------
: Off-topic posts will be removed.
: Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.
:
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: Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
:
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:
:
:
:

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: LED lights on dash

Fred,
Do you have a Fry's Electronics store near you. I find the guys in there are much
more knowledgeable. I think, THINK mind you, I have seen a kit in there LED section that
has a resistor in it, with the LED. I am not sure if this is 12 volt or 120, AC or DC....
It was just a quick glance as I was not looking for that. I like the idea however. On my
dash, the switches light so I do not need them, but if I add anything, the LED will be a
must. You might try them on line... Fry's.
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: "pbe43" <cgreg@voyager.net>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 3:53 PM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: LED lights on dash

--------------------------------------------
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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: LED lights on dash

Greg

I have used Radio Shack Part Nos 276-011, 276-270 and 276-271. These are
all 12 VDC rated.

Fred White

In a message dated 1/28/2008 6:53:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
cgreg@voyager.net writes:

Hi Fred
Radio Shack near hear personal not to bright told me to look for them
my self. Do you know their part number?
Greg

**************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape.

http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: LED lights on dash

Hi Fred
Radio Shack near hear personal not to bright told me to look for them
my self. Do you know their part number?
Greg

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] fuel filter woes

Yep. It takes awhile I guess.

Max <max@ispvip.biz> wrote:

Nate Rector wrote:

> Lets see,I've been fighting it since June 07.I'll remove tank this
> summer,maybe change it to a poly tank.
>
> */Gopher <celestial2_82@yahoo.com>/* wrote:
>
> Dark stuff, my car is still dead from dark stuff. Twins (cars) are
> nice(so are boys), just pull the other one out

, The other car that is. Max

>
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] fuel filter woes

Nate Rector wrote:

> Lets see,I've been fighting it since June 07.I'll remove tank this
> summer,maybe change it to a poly tank.
>
> */Gopher <celestial2_82@yahoo.com>/* wrote:
>
> Dark stuff, my car is still dead from dark stuff. Twins (cars) are
> nice(so are boys), just pull the other one out

, The other car that is. Max

>
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] fuel filter woes

Lets see,I've been fighting it since June 07.I'll remove tank this summer,maybe change it to a poly tank.

Gopher <celestial2_82@yahoo.com> wrote:

dark stuff? Did you make sure it wasn't algae? I had a problem before with keeping my car running...come to find out the filter was full of algae...so when I have dark stuff in mine I make sure that's not the problem. Just a tip.

jefftino <jefftino@yahoo.com> wrote:

Hi all,

I was checking the filters on my 300D and noticed dark stuff in the
small filter. I changed this filter and the one that looks like a oil
filter. I know about priming the system and I did that. However I
could not get the car started. This caused the starter to go and I
finally got a replacement in there. Whew! That top bolt is tough to
get out but I used a 20" extension and a knuckle (3/8" drive). I just
got it in and I got it to crank. So I am pretty happy at the moment.

So back to priming. When I did this, I first loosened the large spin
on filter and began to use the hand pump. Fuel came out of the filter
and also the pump body itself. Is this right? Could some one list
the proper way to prime. In the manual it says your basically
listening for air to escape but no mention of fuel flooding out the
pump. And how often and how long to crank the starter?
Thanks!
Jeff

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] fuel filter woes

dark stuff? Did you make sure it wasn't algae? I had a problem before with keeping my car running...come to find out the filter was full of algae...so when I have dark stuff in mine I make sure that's not the problem. Just a tip.

jefftino <jefftino@yahoo.com> wrote:

Hi all,

I was checking the filters on my 300D and noticed dark stuff in the
small filter. I changed this filter and the one that looks like a oil
filter. I know about priming the system and I did that. However I
could not get the car started. This caused the starter to go and I
finally got a replacement in there. Whew! That top bolt is tough to
get out but I used a 20" extension and a knuckle (3/8" drive). I just
got it in and I got it to crank. So I am pretty happy at the moment.

So back to priming. When I did this, I first loosened the large spin
on filter and began to use the hand pump. Fuel came out of the filter
and also the pump body itself. Is this right? Could some one list
the proper way to prime. In the manual it says your basically
listening for air to escape but no mention of fuel flooding out the
pump. And how often and how long to crank the starter?
Thanks!
Jeff

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RV Archive