eerrrrr, now i gather fuel hoses are not rubber from one end of car to other? so, i might have to drop the rear end subframe? are talking about splicing rubber into a metal line to bypass corrosion? i recall no one here has the factory cd on this, any websites have diagrams for this job? i am rusty too.
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Alan Boucher <alstheone@...> wrote:
>
> On 7/18/2011 5:27 AM, griegiry wrote:
> >
> > thanks, i gather you are referring to injector overflow lines? i was
> > told fuel tank to engine lines, but that the tank is ok and does not
> > have a leak, but that leak is in tank area. do i have to yank tank?
> >
> > --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:diesel_mercedes%40yahoogroups.com>, Bobby Yates Emory
> > <liberty1@> wrote:
> > >
> > > New,
> > >
> > > What usually goes bad are the fuel return lines. There are five or so.
> > > When I replaced one, enough fuel return line to do all of them was
> > less than
> > > $10 at a MB dealer. (Still pretty expensive for 2 1/2 feet or so of
> > small
> > > tubing.)
> > >
> > > Doing it is no big deal - do one at a time - remove the old one - cut a
> > > matching one from the new tubing - install - repeat. There are no
> > clamps to
> > > fiddle with - just slide the old tubing off and slide on the new tubing.
> > >
> > > Other people have advised not to substitute another type of tubing -
> > get the
> > > real thing from MB.
> > >
> > > Bobby
> > >
> > >
> > > On Sun, Jul 17, 2011 at 10:25 PM, <newdlhead@> wrote:
> > >
> > > > **
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > i may have found an sdl. owner was told it needs new fuel lines. i was
> > > > told she weeps from the rear(graphic!) is this a big project? she
> > has been a
> > > > sittin' two years, he says ac works. .what's the drill, anyone care to
> > > > point me to a previous post to save breath?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Toward freedom,
> > >
> > > Bobby Yates Emory
> > >
> >
> >
> If it leaks from the rear its probably rusted fuel lines usually over
> the rear sub frame , but doable The right way once you have found the
> leak is to replace that part of the line, dropping the rear sub frame
> down for access if necessary. I've usually just cut in a length of
> rubber fuel line and worked it through the area. It all depends on
> where the leak is. The other leak point is the mounting points that
> hold the lines up. The lines will frequently leak there since the
> rubber supports will hold water. One thing to watch is the brake
> lines. If the fuel lines are leaking the brake line may be rusting
> also. The brake line has to be repaired with a least a double flange if
> not a bubble flange coupling.
>
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