wow, your job description is sheer poetry, such transparent directions; thank you very much...
i am curious, when splicing the two lengths of fuel line(both metal) do we go metal to rubber to metal, slip on and pipe clamps? or metal to metal? how would one splice metal lines? when going metal to metal, wouldn't one have to flare the line, male and female? also, i understand that where the rear metal lines meet the rubber lines it is all slip on and pipe clamps. what happens up front when the metal enters the engine compartment? it it metal right up to the injector pumps, and what type of fitting? metal to rubber to metal?
if the leak is so slow, would it make sense to wrap the line in something just to get the car home, so one does not dribble all the way, or, can one take a length of rubber to bypass rotted metal, again, just to get car home? how to get the air out of the new line? crankcrankcrank? i don't recall there being a hand pump on these models...
thanks again.
you too, bobby.
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Blaise Colasante <supervee03@...> wrote:
>
> The fuel supply line, return line & vent lines are all under the tank. There are
> rubber lines connected to the tubes coming out of the tank that are connected to
> steel lines using hose clamps. The steel lines run over the rear subframe along
> with the steel brake line coming to the rear wheels from the master cylinder.
> This is usually where the lines rust through and leak. Another place they tend
> to rust badly is where they pass through rubber supprt mounts that are metal
> bracketed to the floor pan under the vehicle. Replacement tubing in the proper
> diameter is available at most auto supply places and can be had in various
> lengths or in 25 foot coils. It is pretty easily formed by hand but I used a
> tubing bender to duplicate the bends in the original lines when I replaced them
> in my 1983 300D this winter. Although the brake line was not leaking I also
> replaced it as it was pretty badly rusted over the subframe where the fuel leak
> was. If you are replacing the brake line also you will need a flaring tool that
> can form an inverted or bubble flare to connect the lines to the master cylinder
> and the tee at the rear frame where the single line coming back from the master
> cylinder is divided into the lines that run to each rear brake caliper. The
> cheap AutoZone rental flaring tool didn't do an acceptable job for me so I ended
> up purchasing a very good flaring tool. Unless you have use for one I would try
> to have it done by a shop or borrow a tool. (This is for the brake line only.)
> If you have to do the brake line look carefully at the formed ends. The bubble
> flare is different than the single or double flare used on most other vehicles
> and the other types of flare are incompatible with bubble flare connections on
> the Mercedes master cylinder and tee block at the rear. The job wasn't very
> difficult. Just try to get the bends as close as possible to the original and be
> patient snaking the formed lines into the engine compartment & over the rear
> subframe. Using two lengths of fuel line & splicing them together would make the
> job easier.
> Blaise
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: griegiry <newdlhead@...>
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Mon, July 18, 2011 4:28:20 AM
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: replacing fuel lines on the 300sdl
>
>
> thanks bobby, i gather you are talking about the injector overflow lines? i
> believe this fellow means the tank to engine lines. and that she leaks under the
> trunk. but that he was told the tank is not bad. i gather i have to get to the
> top of the tank to disconnect the fuel line from the sender, or does she have a
> spout out her side? i vaguely remember an article where a tank was removed from
> an sd to facilitate a greasecar kit, does not look like a job for the faint of
> heart.
>
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