This is the usual failure mode for Auto batteries but before you $pend on a new battery ;
Get some typ of voltimiter and check it whilst it's running ~ Wally-Mart has those nifty charging gauges you plug into the cigarette lighter and it'll tell you how much it's charging , or you can cheap out and go to Harbor Freight and buy a $3.95 multi -meter , it'll do the same job , just a bit more difficulty is using it .
In any case , what you want to see is : over 13 VDC as you slowly rev. the engine up with the lights etc. off . if it remains at or below 13 VDC , the alternator brushes are probably worn out , this is a super simple fix you can do at home if you're handy with tools .
It's the perfect time to get the correct BOSCH brand # 1 197 311 028 voltage regulator (the brushes come with it , the only way to replace them) , it takes under one hour to install it and this one will out charge _ANY_ of the ones you get with the rebuilt $100 + alternator no matter what the lying sack behind the counter says .
O,T.O.H. , if it shows 13 + VDC as soon as you rev. the engine a little bit (NEVER race the engine !) , I'd say the battery is likely kaputi .
Wally-Mart had the best price for the _correct_ battery , many Auto Parts Stores tried to sell me a Volvo Diesel battery , it's wrong and bad for your car .
-Nate
Kevlog6 wrote:
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> I had a few things replaced on my 84 300d and it was firing up just fine. i replaced the battery last fall. yesterday i took it out for a ride, fired right up and drove it 10 miles, parked it for about 4 hours and came back out and it was dead. i jumped it and drive it back 10 miles. turned it off and no power at all, not even any lights coming on. today i did the same, jumped it and let it run for about 45 mins. turned it off and nothing. any suggestions?
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> what surprised me is that the battery was so dead in 4 hours when it had sit for weeks at a time and always started.
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> could it be the alternator voltage regulator?
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> thanks for any suggestions
>
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