[diesel_mercedes] Re: Where has all the mileage gone, long time passing?

 


Reality check :

They were cheap , tinny little slow assed boxes that drummed loudly and made you go deaf , the engines rarely lasted over 100,000 miles .

Wretched cars IMO .

They're _serious_ Cult Cars now .

-Nate
Chip wrote:
>
> I just don't get it. In the early 80's I had a VW Rabbit diesel that could knock out 50mpg's on long trips. Even around town it would do better than 40mpg. So....we were able to generate that kind of economy 30 years ago, but there is almost nothing out there that can beat the fuel economy of a three decade old car design.
>
> Chip
> Turbo-less in Houston
>

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[diesel_mercedes] W-123 Headlight Doors (Plastic)

 


ETY in Eagle Rock can get these in original BOSCH boxes for $64 each , *much* less than your dealer gets...

I bought a pair and they look very nice indeed with crystal clear lenses and no cracks .

-Nate

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[diesel_mercedes] Grille & Horn Fun

 


O.K. ;

Back to the wretched URO re pop grille I bought that wasn't assewmbled properly not well made ~ to noght after work I took the old original crille apart , sat down and hand polished it back to no rust stains and pretty shiny all things considered .

I then took the metal captive nuts off the old grille insert and put them on the new plastic insert & assembled it to my old German surround
and screwed it to the hood , this took some creative finagling with all the various screws loose but in time I got it and snugged up all the screws then added the Mercedes badge and star , lastly I transferred over my original old stock 200,000 KM badge and managed to bend it a little bit by not paying close attention as I tightened up the locking nuts on the back .

All in all I am well pleased , if anyone wants a brandy new grille surround (the metal part) you can have it for free before I toss it in the scrap bin .

I think I'll give re - painting the original plastic insert a whirl then rustle up some passable aluminum strips and polish another original surround , see how it comes out , if it's not too bad I'll put it in my for sale Coupe or hang it in the garage with the old steering wheels & Packard hub caps etc.

The Coupe sure looks pretty again =8-) .

-Nate

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Open Highway Fuel Economy Via Drafting

 


I didn't say those were the _only_ dangers Max.......

=8-) .

-Nate
Max wrote:
>
>
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Be aware this can be _DEADLY_ ! .
> >
> > I *still* do it on occasion when I'm riding my Ural Moto over the grapevine etc. ,but I make sure there's little or no other traffic and I always draft on the left rear corner where the driver can *SEE* me there so if he makes _any_ indication he doesn't want me there , I drop off and find another truck
> >
> > I usually use Highway Dept. trucks as they're not going anywhere fast and see enough road carnage to make the decision to allow me to draft or indicate I shouldn't .
> >
> > If the truck you're drafting pops an air brake hose or drops it's drive shaft , YOU WILL DIE so make sure you understand the consequences before popping in behind a speeding Semi in your Subaru 360 or '54VW Beetle.....
> >
> >How about blowing a tire and shedding large chunks of rubber? Max
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Open Highway Fuel Economy Via Drafting

 

On 1/31/2011 12:21 PM, BStromsoe wrote:

 
Last time I drafted was going across Texas (El Paso to Houston) when suddenly all of the trucks disappeared and I thought "that was strange" - and then I found the cowboy cop and his radar pointed at me. Got to follow him back to Sierra Blanca courthouse where his cousin was the commissioner who took my cash - did not help that the jail was next door, and my wife and six kids were outside in the Dodge maxi-van. Was not a happy day.

The other draft was in 1960 when I kept getting deferrals (college, kids, and finally too old).
 
brian from la verne, ca



They are more efficient in the Fatherland I encountered a traffic camera 1/2 way down a hill.  At the bottom if the hill sat a VW bus with effectively the court inside.  It was expensive, but at least it was quick.

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Literature

 


See , now ?.

That wasn't so bad , now maybe you'll get some bids , there's some good items there and your beginning bids are O.K..

-Nate
--- Alan wrote:
>
>
> > >
> >
> >
> If you insist, the number for the parts picture book covering the 115
> 220D,240D and 300D is 110640910384
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 300TD injector rebuild

 


All that work but _still_ no valve adjust ? .

You must hate this car a lot .

-Nate
Rick wrote:
>
> Folks
>
> I've been struggling with a no start condition for a month or two. My
> car will only start with a shot of ether. Glow plugs and system are
> good. I've been too lazy to adjust the valves but i replaced one
> injector 6 weeks ago with an unknown used and it ran better but still
> no starying joy.
>
> I had the removed injector tested over Christmas and it had a bad
> narrow spray pattern squirt.
>
> I finally located a reasonably priced KIKI injector tester (made in
> japan) on craigslist in abeline, texas and talked the seller into
> shipping it to georgia. A great investment!!
>
> This weekend we had a rare 2 days of around 70 f highs, so it was the
> time to do it.
>
> So i collected a junk set of injectors out of a 240 and added my
> spare. Incidentally they popped at 1500 to 16oo lbs. I washed them in
> gas and then disassembled them all and then threw everything but the
> nozzles into the ultrasonic cleaner. Then i installed new monark
> nozzles and reassembled. I fiddled with shims and set them all to pop
> at 2050 lbs, usually with only one try. I used a digital caliper on
> the shims to figure out what thickness to add or subtract.
>
> I swapped the rebuilt injectors for the ones in the car. Is there some
> trick to removing the heat shields. I couldn't get the old ones out,
> so i just reused them.
>
> I still don't know if it will start cold, but MAN what an improvement.
> I'd say i have 20% more power and acceleration is much more immediate.
> The lope in the idle went away and it's just much smoother and it was
> pretty smooth even with the goofy injectors.
>
> To keep some required airplane content, i test drove it out to AHN and
> talked planes with a member of the us aerobatic team. While i was
> there i took a call from my friend jay who is a watch repairman (watch
> content).
>
> I'll keep you posted on whether it will cold start. And yes, i've been
> running the 1982 300td on WVO for going on 4 or 5 years!! The monarks
> are supposed to be better for WVO and they are really made in germany.
>
> I'm sending this to the Peugeot list, too, because i'm sure the
> injector improvement will help a peugeot diesel with Bosch injectors,
> just are much!
>
>
> thanks,
>
> xx rick
> Rick Hawkins
>
> www.javaphoto.com
> www.javacycles.com
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Batteries, Wiring, & Grounds

 

The two most common terms in electricity are volts and amps. So let's start there.

Electrical force or pressure is measured in Volts.
Electrical current or flow is measured in Amperes or amps.
(Capitals are used because these are the names of people in the modern discovery of electrical phenomenon.)
The Volt is defined as 1 Joule of energy per 1 Coulomb (a very large number) of electrons.
The Ampere is measured in units of Coulombs of electrons passing a point in a wire per second.
When you multiply Volts times Amperes you get Watts - the unit of power.

Joules Coulombs Joules
--------- X ---------- = --------- = Watts.
Coulomb second second

When you divide Volts by Amperes you get Ohms - the unit of resistance.
Really, the more Volts it takes to move one Ampere means the more resistance (Ohms) that you are up against.

When you divide Amperes by Volts you get Mhos - the unit of conductance.
Again the more Amperes that move for each Volt applied means the better a conductor you have.

To review . . .

Voltage pushes.
Current flows.
Insulation resists.
(Well, everything resists. It's just a matter of how much. )
Now, repeat these first three lines 10 times - per day.

Batteries store energy. They pump up the electrons - as it were. They give the electrons their desire to go from the negative terminal to the positive terminal. (I know, I know. But these conventions were defined before we discovered that the electrons were actually what was moving. So conventional current, or positively charged carriers, is thought of as flowing from positive to negative while real current, negatively charged carriers, flow from negative to positive. It can be thought of and talked about either way. But we usually talk in terms of conventional current.)

Wires conduct the energized electrons From one battery post to their destination where work is done - light, heat, motion, etc. - and then carry them back to the other post on the battery again. Wires should have very low resistance as should plugs and splices and such. The destination is where all the resistance should be - that is - it is where all the work should be done. Wires should not get hot. Well, not so much that you notice.

A wire that gets hot is not big enough around for the current that is flowing through it. Insulation that arcs through is not resistive enough (thick enough) to keep the voltage from pushing the current through it. This is almost never a problem unless the wire gets too hot from too much current and the insulation melts or unless the insulation rubs against something and gets thin.

Fuses are there to protect the wires. That's right the wires. Say a wiper motor that goes bad. It can be replaced easily. If the wire going to it gets hot and the insulation melts and "short circuits" to ground somewhere, then you have a much nastier problem.

Or think about your house. You have a 20 Ampere circuit Breaker wired to a to a plug with a 120 Watt lamp (that uses 1 Ampere of Current). (1 Ampere times 120 Volts = 120 Watts.) So why a 20 amp Breaker? Because the wire can safely carry 20 Amperes of current. Fuses and breakers protect the wires.

When the current finds a less resistive (or even a zero resistive) path back to the battery we say it has found a shorter circuit to ground. Or a "short circuit". This is the single most misused phrase in the whole of the English language and perhaps in the history of mankind. Unfused short circuits manifest themselves as magnificent displays of sight and sound and smell and heat and smoke. Remember - all that energy in the electrons has to do some work somewhere before it returns to the battery. It has to give up it's energy doing something. If it bypasses it's destination and goes right to ground this is what happens - if it isn't fuse protected. Unfused short circuits are very easy to find. On the other hand if the fuse blows out it could be due to the motor or light or whatever going bad and drawing too much current. Either way, if a fuse blows out find out why. Disconnect the device and if the fuse still blows then you have an honest to goodness
short circuit on your hands. If it doesn't blow then the device is bad and is the reason the fuse blew.

Unprotected short circuits are very spectacular displays, but don't last very long. The wire usually melts (that is where the energy goes) and leaves a gap between itself and the ground point of contact. This is known as an "open". 99.9999999999999999999999999999999999999% of all electrical problems are OPEN circuits. NOT SHORTS!!!!!!!! If you didn't hear the ark or see the flash or smell the smoke or feel the heat then you probably don't have a short circuit - you most likely have an open circuit. These can be SOBs to find.

And dirty connections are one of the most common forms of "open" circuits. You might have enough of a connection to light a half amp (1/2 amp X 12 volts = 6 watts) test light but not enough to turn a 600 cold cranking Ampere starter. Such a dirty or bad connection will get hot if enough current tries to pass through it. The bad connector actually becomes part of the load resistance. Lights will go dim. Motors will slow down. The plastic shielding around the bad connection will start to melt. 12 Volts is not really a lot of force or pressure. So it doesn't take much in the way of dirt on a connector to make a circuit not work right. Sandpaper and cleaning sprays are your friend here. The edge of a sharp knife is highly regarded as well for cleaning the surface of the connectors.

That green scum on your battery is the devil himself. As it gets between the post and the cable terminal it inhibits the good clean low resistance conduction of current. If you want to see what this can do try this - unbolt every battery cable at both ends and clean them vigorously. Clean chrome or copper or steel or iron is what you want to see. And do this for the heavy cable that goes from the chassis or frame to the engine block. That cable returns the starter current to the battery. And clean the frame and chassis and engine points of contact as well. 12 volts is not a lot of pressure. Clean tight fitting contacts are absolutely essential for good conduction of current. Discolored plugs are a red flag.

Hope this helps.
Bogy.

----------------------------------------------------------
--- On Mon, 1/31/11, brian's 83 300d's <bstromsoe@yahoo.com> wrote:

> I can take an engine out, tear it
> down, rebuild it, and all that stuff.
>
> But, I was born with a defect in my brain that prevents me
> from understanding electrcity. I think it is because I can
> pick up a crankshaft and look at it, but electricity is
> invisible and I get shocked by it. If I have an electrical
> problem, I call my son "the electrician" and he does his
> magic act for me.
>
> So, why don't one (or more) of you people who understand
> how electricity works in a car write some exhaustive posts
> for us dummies whose brains are wired incorrectly, start
> simply and build from there. The key word here is simple,
> for simple people. Maybe take it system by system, or part
> by part. I know I have a battery with a positive and a
> negative, but what about fuses, relays, all those shiny cube
> things. Start at the basic beginnings and help those of us
> who are still wandering in the desert after 40=40 years.
>
> brian from laverne
>
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Batteries, Wiring, & Grounds

 

"I wish they had electric guitars in the cotton fields back in the good old days. A whole lot of things would have been straightened out." Jimi Hendrix

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Nate Rector <tccservice111@...> wrote:
>
> wire does age,just like a flood of 50s homes with aluminum wiring.You have to rewire the house so it won't burn.Same with a car.
>
> --- On Mon, 1/31/11, BStromsoe <bstromsoe@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: BStromsoe <bstromsoe@...>
> Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Batteries, Wiring, & Grounds
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Monday, January 31, 2011, 2:52 PM
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
> No theory thanks, well maybe a little. I am thinking of my w123's and other assorted MB's who those in this group may need to take apart someday, and whose various radios, antenai, heaters, blowers, horns, ignitions, alternators, starters, buzzers, lights, dome lights, brake lights, fog lamps, and other assorted pieces behave badly every now and then.
>
>  brian from la verne, ca
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: ygmir111 <ygmir111@...>
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Mon, January 31, 2011 11:22:09 AM
> Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Batteries, Wiring, & Grounds
>
>  
>
> Are you asking about electrical theory and such, or, more specifically about
> automotive?
> It's good to know the basics of how it flows and reacts and such, I agree.
> I'm no expert, for sure, but will be happy to share what I know, until
> someone more learned comes along.
>
> next:
>
> the electrons flow predominantly on the outside of the conductor. So,
> stranded wire can carry more amps than one solid wire, with less resistance.
>
> Resistance to current flow, causes heat.
> and, heat, causes more resistance. So, it can become a "nested loop".
>
> There's a good analogy using water and pipe, to explain
> volts/amps/watts.......I don't know it off hand.
>
> But, Amps is where the heat comes from. So, the higher the voltage, for a
> given wattage, the lower the amps and so, the lower the heat and
> resistance, at a given flow
>
> I'm not trying to be funny, sorry if it seems that way.
> I'm just going over what I know.
> and, some at a time.
> I'm also working from memory.......so hope, if I'm wrong, someone will
> correct me.
>
> *(dang, my head hurts now)*
>
> hahaha
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "BStromsoe" <bstromsoe@...>
> To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 10:28 AM
> Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Batteries, Wiring, & Grounds
>
> Well, you can get a little more complicated than that Henry.
>
> brian from la verne, ca
>
> ________________________________
> From: ygmir111 <ygmir111@...>
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Mon, January 31, 2011 10:20:54 AM
> Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Batteries, Wiring, & Grounds
>
> electrons flow from negative to positive, charge flows the opposite.
>
> there's the starting point.
>
> Henry
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "brian's 83 300d's" <bstromsoe@...>
> To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 10:14 AM
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Batteries, Wiring, & Grounds
>
> I can take an engine out, tear it down, rebuild it, and all that stuff.
>
> But, I was born with a defect in my brain that prevents me from
> understanding electrcity. I think it is because I can pick up a crankshaft
> and look at it, but electricity is invisible and I get shocked by it. If I
> have an electrical problem, I call my son "the electrician" and he does his
> magic act for me.
>
> So, why don't one (or more) of you people who understand how electricity
> works in a car write some exhaustive posts for us dummies whose brains are
> wired incorrectly, start simply and build from there. The key word here is
> simple, for simple people. Maybe take it system by system, or part by part.
> I know I have a battery with a positive and a negative, but what about
> fuses, relays, all those shiny cube things. Start at the basic beginnings
> and help those of us who are still wandering in the desert after 40=40
> years.
>
> brian from laverne
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Batteries, Wiring, & Grounds

 

wire does age,just like a flood of 50s homes with aluminum wiring.You have to rewire the house so it won't burn.Same with a car.

--- On Mon, 1/31/11, BStromsoe <bstromsoe@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: BStromsoe <bstromsoe@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Batteries, Wiring, & Grounds
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, January 31, 2011, 2:52 PM

 
No theory thanks, well maybe a little. I am thinking of my w123's and other assorted MB's who those in this group may need to take apart someday, and whose various radios, antenai, heaters, blowers, horns, ignitions, alternators, starters, buzzers, lights, dome lights, brake lights, fog lamps, and other assorted pieces behave badly every now and then.
 
brian from la verne, ca


From: ygmir111 <ygmir111@att.net>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, January 31, 2011 11:22:09 AM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Batteries, Wiring, & Grounds

 
Are you asking about electrical theory and such, or, more specifically about
automotive?
It's good to know the basics of how it flows and reacts and such, I agree.
I'm no expert, for sure, but will be happy to share what I know, until
someone more learned comes along.

next:

the electrons flow predominantly on the outside of the conductor. So,
stranded wire can carry more amps than one solid wire, with less resistance.

Resistance to current flow, causes heat.
and, heat, causes more resistance. So, it can become a "nested loop".

There's a good analogy using water and pipe, to explain
volts/amps/watts.......I don't know it off hand.

But, Amps is where the heat comes from. So, the higher the voltage, for a
given wattage, the lower the amps and so, the lower the heat and
resistance, at a given flow

I'm not trying to be funny, sorry if it seems that way.
I'm just going over what I know.
and, some at a time.
I'm also working from memory.......so hope, if I'm wrong, someone will
correct me.

*(dang, my head hurts now)*

hahaha

----- Original Message -----
From: "BStromsoe" <bstromsoe@yahoo.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 10:28 AM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Batteries, Wiring, & Grounds

Well, you can get a little more complicated than that Henry.

brian from la verne, ca

________________________________
From: ygmir111 <ygmir111@att.net>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, January 31, 2011 10:20:54 AM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Batteries, Wiring, & Grounds

electrons flow from negative to positive, charge flows the opposite.

there's the starting point.

Henry

----- Original Message -----
From: "brian's 83 300d's" <bstromsoe@yahoo.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 10:14 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Batteries, Wiring, & Grounds

I can take an engine out, tear it down, rebuild it, and all that stuff.

But, I was born with a defect in my brain that prevents me from
understanding electrcity. I think it is because I can pick up a crankshaft
and look at it, but electricity is invisible and I get shocked by it. If I
have an electrical problem, I call my son "the electrician" and he does his
magic act for me.

So, why don't one (or more) of you people who understand how electricity
works in a car write some exhaustive posts for us dummies whose brains are
wired incorrectly, start simply and build from there. The key word here is
simple, for simple people. Maybe take it system by system, or part by part.
I know I have a battery with a positive and a negative, but what about
fuses, relays, all those shiny cube things. Start at the basic beginnings
and help those of us who are still wandering in the desert after 40=40
years.

brian from laverne



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Batteries, Wiring, & Grounds

 

No theory thanks, well maybe a little. I am thinking of my w123's and other assorted MB's who those in this group may need to take apart someday, and whose various radios, antenai, heaters, blowers, horns, ignitions, alternators, starters, buzzers, lights, dome lights, brake lights, fog lamps, and other assorted pieces behave badly every now and then.
 
brian from la verne, ca


From: ygmir111 <ygmir111@att.net>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, January 31, 2011 11:22:09 AM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Batteries, Wiring, & Grounds

 

Are you asking about electrical theory and such, or, more specifically about
automotive?
It's good to know the basics of how it flows and reacts and such, I agree.
I'm no expert, for sure, but will be happy to share what I know, until
someone more learned comes along.

next:

the electrons flow predominantly on the outside of the conductor. So,
stranded wire can carry more amps than one solid wire, with less resistance.

Resistance to current flow, causes heat.
and, heat, causes more resistance. So, it can become a "nested loop".

There's a good analogy using water and pipe, to explain
volts/amps/watts.......I don't know it off hand.

But, Amps is where the heat comes from. So, the higher the voltage, for a
given wattage, the lower the amps and so, the lower the heat and
resistance, at a given flow

I'm not trying to be funny, sorry if it seems that way.
I'm just going over what I know.
and, some at a time.
I'm also working from memory.......so hope, if I'm wrong, someone will
correct me.

*(dang, my head hurts now)*

hahaha

----- Original Message -----
From: "BStromsoe" <bstromsoe@yahoo.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 10:28 AM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Batteries, Wiring, & Grounds

Well, you can get a little more complicated than that Henry.

brian from la verne, ca

________________________________
From: ygmir111 <ygmir111@att.net>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, January 31, 2011 10:20:54 AM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Batteries, Wiring, & Grounds

electrons flow from negative to positive, charge flows the opposite.

there's the starting point.

Henry

----- Original Message -----
From: "brian's 83 300d's" <bstromsoe@yahoo.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 10:14 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Batteries, Wiring, & Grounds

I can take an engine out, tear it down, rebuild it, and all that stuff.

But, I was born with a defect in my brain that prevents me from
understanding electrcity. I think it is because I can pick up a crankshaft
and look at it, but electricity is invisible and I get shocked by it. If I
have an electrical problem, I call my son "the electrician" and he does his
magic act for me.

So, why don't one (or more) of you people who understand how electricity
works in a car write some exhaustive posts for us dummies whose brains are
wired incorrectly, start simply and build from there. The key word here is
simple, for simple people. Maybe take it system by system, or part by part.
I know I have a battery with a positive and a negative, but what about
fuses, relays, all those shiny cube things. Start at the basic beginnings
and help those of us who are still wandering in the desert after 40=40
years.

brian from laverne


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