What you described about the U-joint not being fully drilled out is exactly what was installed on my MH when it was built new. A faulty U-Joint and even though it was being serviced when called for, the grease was not getting where it was suppost to go.
--
Dave Knight
dknig288@comcast.net
Hook'em Horns 1969
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "ucdavisgsm" <mike@fleming.cc>
> Now that Ken refreshes my memory, I too recall the crush plates to
> establish preload on the hypoid gears. I'd agree there shouldn't be
> end play, as the gears should be preloaded when assembled properly.
> This supposes small vehicle facts are transportable to this large
> vehicle, but I'd bet money it's factual in this case.
>
> Seems like I'll get a flag for "piling on" but I'll ad my $.02 that
> missing zerks = REPLACE THE CROSSES, NEEDLE BEARING SETS, AND CUPS on
> the u-joint assemblies w/new, known good u-joints. BTW, new u-joints
> need to be inspected to assure the grease hole runs full length from
> zerc to all 4 bearing cups; sometimes they don't get fully drilled
> out, and on my rig I can assure you I'd check the new u-joint grease
> galleries myself prior to installation. The mechanic might think I'm
> a jerk (and whadoo I know, maybe he's right), but having a u-joint
> fail for this reason is not necessary. And if one isn't drilled out
> properly, you can get one that is.
> maybe that's $.04.
> Mike
>
> --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "Kenneth Molloy" wrote:
> > > Hi Phil and Mike,
>
> > I too would change the u-joints and test before
> > pulling the rear apart. You are talking lots of labor $ verses
> > minimal labor $ to be sure...
>
> > I was the only mechanic in the shop who owned a dial
> > indicator. There should be NO END PLAY in the tail pinion! NONE!
> > Depending on the rear axle manufacturer and model, the preload on the
> > pinion bearings is usually set by torqueing the nut on the yoke to a
> > certain value, which crushes a bushing on the shaft. That "crush
> > bushing" has to be replaced every time the yoke nut is removed.
> >
> > If there were zerk fitting missing from the U-joints, that alone is
> > good reason for replacing the U-joint. If you just screw in a new
> > zerk fitting and grease the U-joint, you would be forcing every grain
> > of sand right into the needle bearings!
> >
> > U-joint kits aren't very expensive, and the labor to remove the drive
> > shaft, replace the U-joints, and reinstall the drive shaft shouldn't
> > exceed 3 to 3-1/2 hours.
> >
> > Ken Molloy
>
>
>
>
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