Mercedes Benz Transmission Application
http://www.europeantransmissions.com/Application.htm
Rob
Garden Grove, CA
On 7/22/15 8:11 PM, Bogy Wan Kenobi polespearbogy@yahoo.com [diesel_mercedes] wrote:
The hot fluid (with torque converter) and filter change is scheduled.I will look into the BJ catalog and see what they have.
Also, I have read that there are 3 different filters for this tranny. Supposedly with different lengths of pickup tubes. Since I do not have this tranny in the original car I cannot specify what I want by "make, model, and year". Any counsel on how to know which filter is right?
Thanks again in advance,Bogy."Hardware eventually fails.
Software eventually works"
- Michael Hartung
From: "vwnate1@yahoo.com [diesel_mercedes]" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2015 4:00 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: 4 bolt tranny throttle linkage and shift issues 722.118
An OM617 powered Jeep sounds good .
I'd think using the TH400 to make it a real 4X4 is the smart way to go however , BJ makes several products you can add to the ATF to dissolve gum
Have you yet done a HOT ATF and tranny filter change ? remember to drain the torque converter too .
-Nate
Bogy wrote :
Guys:
Last sumer I got an 81 CJ7 for a great price. It got better when I sold the bits I didn't want. It came with a th400 and t20 transfer case. I got it because I wanted a jeep and especially wanted to put the engine/tranny from my parts car in one. A couple of months ago I got it legal and have been driving it. It is the 722.118 four bolt with the long arm for throttle position sensing/shift point modification. The tranny came form a different car than the engine did and I do not have any good details about how to connect the "modulator" arm to the throttle so I made a linkage of my own and it moves the rod "linearly" with the throttle.
Question 1: is this right or should the modulator arm only move at the end of the throttle travel.
It has never shifted right - flaring between 2 AND 3, AND THEN SHIFTING ABOUT 25 - 30 mph DEPENDING ON TEMP. (Excuse the caps, I'm not retyping all that.) As of a few weeks ago it would not shift out of second gear when cold unless I got it up to the mandatory shift point as indicated on the speedo. But once it warms up it shifts in an acceptable manner. Once warm it stays in second a bit too long for my taste and still can flare if I don't dance on the throttle just right. But I can live with it.
Question 2: Because the shift starts working right when warm I suspect some gum or varnish in the valve body (or maybe the band servos - who knows) and when it warms up the stuff softens up and allows acceptable shifting again. I was thinking about using a bit of MMO or something to dissolve the sludge (if indeed that is what it is) and wanted you guys' take on all this.
I may just end up putting the TH400/T20 on because I have it and can make an adapter plate to mount it all onto the engine. And then I would have 4 wheel drive without having to figure out how to install a divorced t-case. I'm just looking at options right now. But any thoughts would be outrageously appreciated.
FWIW, I have mounted a 123 instrument cluster on the dash and the odo doesn't work. But using my phones GPS over a full tank of gas I get just under 20 MPG. (3.54 diffs and 33 inch tires add up to 15% faster than the spedo indicates.) Oh yeah The engine is old and tired. A couple of HARD Italian tune ups has helped it to idle smoothly within 30 seconds after start up instead of 30 minutes. And I can't get it to start unless the injection timing is retarded to about 15 degrees BTDC. (spent all day today proving that.) But it's mine, it didn't cost me much and I enjoy the hell out of bonking around town in it. It was a lot of fun to build. And it is still a lot of fun to work on. There's a thousand little things to do.
Still I gotta do something about the tranny shift thing.
TIA.Bogy."Hardware eventually fails.
Software eventually works"
- Michael Hartung
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Posted by: Aleph93 <aleph93@ca.rr.com>
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