As soon as I start mine its 14.55 volts, at idle. Max
On Wed, Jan 15, 2014 at 7:56 PM, Bud S <budski252@yahoo.com> wrote:
Well, I haven't had the battery die yet, light is still working as I described. Today when I got home I left the engine running and checked the voltage. It was 12.2, reved the engine a bit and no change didn't force a charge. The light on the dash goes off completely at about 35mph and above.
I've got a brand new Bosch voltage regulator in there, it's probably got 100 miles on it.
I'm thinking of picking up one of those cigarette lighter voltmeters to see what it's doing.
I was surprised the battery ground goes to sheet metal and not the engine/tranny bell housing, I'll have to add a ground cable.
Bud
O.K. Bud ;Sounds good .In many older vehicles , over time resistance builds up so the charging light will glow faintly as you drive when all is well .Just get a DC voltmeter or $5 Harbor Freight Multi-Meter and check the voltage across the center of the battery's posts , while the engine is running ~ if it's below 13 VDC , rev. the engine ~ not much , don't rev. the pi$$ out of it trying to force it to charge ~ the voltage will either ride to 13 + VDC as soon as the engine revs up or it won't .If it doesn't , the brushes in the alternator are prolly bad , even if it's a rebuilt unit .If the voltage rises , try it again with the lights and HVAC fan going , these 55 Ampere alternators don't have much extra so 12.7 VDC with everything going is O.K. , don't panic .Get a flashlight and look at the round black thing on the back of the alternator ~ unless it clearly says " BOSCH " on it , it's crap , _period_ go to a Partshaus and order up a BOSH brand ( ! only !) # 1 197 311 02X voltage regulator , it comes with new brushes and you can install it in 15 minutes or so .The last digit isn't important , might be 2 , 5 , 7 , whatever .I carry one in my glove box as I travel a lot and don't want to have to go to M-B Dealer if it poops out , FLAPS will only ever have crappo off branded junk ones on the shelf , they're NO DANG GOOD because the charge at a very low rate .If you like to tinker , the red 1.5 MM wires connecting the alternator to the battery etc. have brass ring connectors that can be hand polished then you replace the tiny Metric screws & washers that hold them to the black plastic box the all join in , sometimes this helps bot the charge rate and the glowing charge light .Unless you personally added a battery ground to engine cable , it needs one .-Nate(who keeps a BOSCH voltage regulator next to my computer so folks will always get the right one !)
Bud Wrote :
From: Bud S <budski252@...>;
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>;
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Charging Lamp
Sent: Thu, Jan 9, 2014 9:01:33 PM
I'll try that in the next day or two.
Bud
I see you have the same typing ability as I do :0
On Wednesday, January 8, 2014 10:35 PM, "vwnate1@..." <vwnate1@...> wrote:
O.K. Bud ;
If you tuen the key on then ground the skinny wire leading to the ALTERNATOR , THE CHARGE LAMP SHOULD & MUST COME ON , IF NOT , i'D FIRST CHECK THE DASH BULB AND HOLDER , THEN THE mpc.....
Oops , damn caps lock again .
-Nate
Bud Wrote :No, the light has never come on since I've had it. There's always been something wrong with the charging system and I found out there was a late model VR without the "L" leg installed. Got a Bosch with the "L" leg and it's been charging the battery since I put it in.
Bud
On Monday, January 6, 2014 5:17 PM, "vwnate1@..." <vwnate1@...> wrote:
No ;This is wrong/bad .Does the low charge light ever come on ? .-Nate
Bud Wrote :
Just an update, since I've put the new regulator in, it's been charging like a champ. The only oddball thing is that the battery warning light on the dash does not come on when I put the key to the glow position. Does that sound right?
Thanks,
Bud
http://www.rhinocat.com/cvaf4u/
On Friday, December 27, 2013 12:38 PM, Bud S <budski252@...> wrote:
Thanks Bogy and Carl, I got a wild hair when I woke up this morning and ran the voltage regulator number Vemo V10-77-0001 that was in the car and the replacement and I called my parts house and it seems this regulator is for newer 300sd's.Dug some more and found http://www.regitar.com/FlyerPDF/cs.pdf which gives info on regulators. The vemo cross references to a Bosch 1197311027 which doesn't have an "L" leg for the light on the instrument panel.No light when I turn the key to on, my understanding is the light has to excite the alternator then the light drops out. I also get a faint glow from the brake light and I replaced the pads and sensors.
I have on order a 1197311004 that has the "L" leg, so I guess I'll see what happens when I replace it.
Bud
On Thursday, December 26, 2013 11:35 PM, Bogy Wan Kenobi <polespearbogy@...> wrote:
Bud:
When you plugged the relay back in it behaved as if it was just turned on by the ignition key and began to heat the plugs. Had you given it a few seconds it would have, or at least should have, kicked off and the voltage would have risen back to the idling voltage. If it was me I would chase the alternator because I think your new regulator has failed.
I believe you can disconnect the alternator at the junction block on the right inner fender well. There should be two 'heavy' red cloth covered wires. Some models have them go from the alternator to the starter and then up to the junction block and some go right to the junction block from the alternator. Disconnect them and then attach them to a load like a headlight. Then measure the voltage. If it is still 12.?? volts then the regulator has failed. If it is up to 14.? volts then you have a heavy load or wiring problem.
Just to put it in perspective, one of those heavy wires goes right to the glow plug relay as supply power for the plugs. The other heavy wire goes to the light switch and from there supplies the entire rest of the car. In other words - the glow plugs pull as much as, or more than, the current used by the whole rest of the car.
COLD glow plugs pull upwards of 75 amps for the pencil type. That quickly drops as the plugs warm up. But that initial load can drop the battery voltage a volt or two. If you disconnect the glow plugs and the voltage rises up to 14.5 volts then you have a GP relay issue. But you have to disconnect the plug with the heavy wires at the glow plug relay. It's the bigger of the two plugs.
Alternatively, you could place a 60 or 80 amp meter between the two heavy red wires and the junction block. Give it 15 minutes to allow for battery charging. A "lot" of current (40 to 80 Amps) flowing during those 15 minutes is the alternator charging the battery. If you only get a few amps or no amps during that 15 minutes then your alternator is bad. But if the current stays maxed out at 40 to 80 amps then you have a wiring problem. If it never goes up you have an alternator/regulator problem.
But your description of the problem sounds more like a failed regulator/alternator to me.
You could pull the alternator and have it tested. But Autozone and checker can't do it. You will have to take it to an auto electric guy or maybe NAPA or such.
This is just my two cents.But FWIW, I am an electrical engineer.
Bogy.
On Thursday, December 26, 2013 7:43 PM, diyernh <diyernh@...> wrote:
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