Hi Nick ;
Yes , you have to take the car off the alternator it seems , no bending of anything is necessary .
The first time I did it , I didn't realize one of those 17MM nuts is welded to the front bracket so I mangled it pretty good .
The little rectangular thing is a radio static surpressor , it works very well indeed , just transfer it over *if* you purchase a rebuilt alternator .
Now comes the good part : all you need is a $35 (+/-) regulator/brush holder *BUT* the one you buy is CRITICAL ~ buying any brand other than OEM BOSCH in the yellow box , will not get you where you want to be ~ even the other German brands (Beru,Hugo Etc.) won't properly charge , none will ever get to 14 VDC .
I'm away from my parts stash else I'd post up the correct BOSCH P/N , if you go to Buy MB Parts dotwhever or Pelican Parts , Peach Parts etc. , they'll have it in the catalog , DO NOT get suckered into buying " the same thing really , I sell lots of these and never have any complaints " bullcrap the partshous guy will tell you ! .
I always buy two and keep one in the glovebox as the brushes wear out and it stops charging but the damn red light never comes on..... it's easy to change on the side of the road .
Many will tell you to upgrade ($) to a 90 Ampere SAAB alternator (! $$ !) but , if you just use the correct BOSCH brand regulator , it'll be fine like God and Mercedes Benz intended .
If you're anywhere in So. Cal. go to ETY in Eagle Rock and tell Allen you want the BOSCG regulator Nate insists on , you'll get the best price and he'll haveit in his hand three hours after you order it .
-Nate
Nick wrote :
I am having trouble understanding this. Hope you can help. I have a 1984 300D with a bad alternator. I have been working on cars for 40 years. The car has the 65 amp bosch version.
When removing the alternator, how are you suppose to remove the adjuster bolt. I removed the through bolt, loosened the adjuster bolt, and moved the adjuster so the alternator was closest to the engine block and belts fell off. But how are you suppose to remove the adjusting bolt. I had to bend the mounting bracket to free the adjuster rod, then it barely cleared getting it out anyway. Is that how it is done? Seems like a pain in the rear. First time I actually cussed German engineering. Did I miss something?
Once the alternator was on the ground, I was still confused. The 65amp rebuilt one I got from O'Reileys had me scratching my head some more. What is the little rectangular gizmo attached to the back of the alternator with one wire going into the rear of the alternator. Looks like a resistor. Can't find a new one. I think it said Faccon 2202 or something like that. Thought we had a picture of it but can not find it now.
When looking at the old alternator, I removed the voltage regulator and the brushes were wore down. Made me wonder if the alternator was fine, just the regulator was shot. Can it be tested off the car? How do you know? Can a voltage regulator be purchased separately? I have not been able to locate on online. I do not mind dropping $140 but if I do not have to, that is a bonus.
When we originally tested the alternator, voltage would not increase at battery when motor was reved past 2K. Thought that indicated alternator. That is why it is off the car now.
thanks, nick
Posted by: vwnate1@yahoo.com
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