Diesel RVs: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Brake line / hose connector screwed up

PB Blaster yesterday. Heat from a torch lighter this morning. Vice grips slipped off a dozen times before it finally broke loose. All I had to do was to loosen it so I could straighten out the extra loop in the hose, then tighten it back up, which I was able to do. In a few years I will probably curse my former self if I ever need to take this thing apart again. Thanks everyone for your help.

In the mean time, I learned a bit about brake lines and connectors. These old diesels use the "bubble flare" aka "DIN flare" aka "ISO flare" aka "DIN/ISO flare" whatever...apparently they are 4.75 mm lines and 3/16" is close enough to substitute without issues. If that is wrong, someone please post a correction.

Excellent FAQ here:

http://store.fedhillusa.com/technicalhelphowtopdfs.aspx

Apparently, flaring tools are available at a number of places, including many McParts stores and ebay.

To repair a section of brake line, it looks like you cut out the bad spot, get a suitable piece of 3/16" hose (or 4.75mm if you really want to be perfect), make a replacement section with a flaring tool and then use unions to piece everything back together.

I'm glad I didn't have to do this LOL but probably one day I will if I keep on driving these old diesels.

Jim

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Alan Boucher <alstheone@...> wrote:
>
> Since I'm assuming that you were planning on replacing at least the hose,
> try some heat from a very small torch flame applied to the metal end of the
> hose, even the heat from a propane or butane torch would usually cause the
> hose end to expand enough to allow you to loosen the nut. First soak the
> line above the nut and and the hose connection liberally with Liquid Stench
> or whatever solvent that works for you. The other problem in a situation
> like this is that the nut has rusted to the tube and turning the nut will
> twist the tube. Before heating the area, be sure to wipe off all of the
> residual liquid, and as always, when working with flames under a car, keep
> some kind of fire extinguisher handy. If you can get it apart, the
> condition of the hex on the nut doesn't really matter as long as you can
> get enough of a grip on it with a vise grip or whatever to tighten it.
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 16, 2013 at 6:10 PM, Nate <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> >
> > German cars tend to have sheet metal clips holding the hose in place then
> > the steel line screws into it , you have the loosen the line then carefully
> > remove the sheet metal clip to get it all apart .
> >
> > Pic would help here .
> >
> > I wish I could be more specific but am not sure what you're working on @
> > there should be two rear brakes hoses as the suspension is independent .
> >
> > -Nate
> > Jim wrote :
> > >
> > > OK what do I do now? The rear brake hose on my W123 won't come loose
> > from the brake line. The bolt head is shot and it's stuck so tight I can't
> > get it apart even with vice grips. I've never cut/repaired a brake line
> > before. I don't know what sizes these things are, where to get parts and
> > tools, never patched a brake line before. I'm guessing if I'm lucky I can
> > get the bolt out of the brake hose by mangling it beyond recognition with
> > vice grips, but I wanted to have tools etc on hand to fix it right then.
> > Maybe I can cut off the flare, slip on a new bolt, and re-flare the line?
> > Anyone know where I can get the stuff to do this with?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Jim
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>