Silly question Kevin but I'm lazy soI always do things the " K.I.S.S. " way:
Take your test light and ground it well to the engine , remove the fuse box cover (it takes gentle wiggling to get it off or back on , be careful) , then turn on the key and begin gently touching the tester to each end of _EVERY_ fuse ~ there's a good chance one will light up on one end but not the other . if you find this , replace that fuse with a copper (yellow) strip one , _NOT_ another grey metal strip one and keep testing , usually there's several poor contact fuses .
Don't feel ' dumb ' when working with electrickery ~ it's not the same as other things .
-Nate
Kevin Wrote:
My '85 300D has been driving me nuts with a window problem. Since I am dumb when it comes to tracing electrical problems I just replaced the switches and the relays with new ones. Still no working windows. Yes, I'm talking all 4 of them.
So, in desperation, I printed out the schematic and tried understanding the flow of electrons. I am able to jumper from the battery directly to the "a" and "b" terminal on the fuse box and all 4 windows will open and close just like a well behaving window should.
So, tracing the power feed into the "a" and "b" locations in the fuse box, it appears that the wire comes directly from the ignition switch. Therefore, it seems that I am getting no power from my ignition switch to my windows fuses. I can confirm this with my volt meter.
So, now it seems that I need to replace the ignition switch in order to make power go to the windows when I turn on the switch. Has anybody ever had this problem? I don't want to spend big money on an ignition switch if the problem is somewhere else. Everything else electrical works when I turn on the ignition switch.
Thanks,
Kevin
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