I ran it 3 years filtered with blue jeans,but mostly bought filtered oil and $2.00 a gallon (cheaper than diesel). And mixed at 50% diesel,still ran heaters,and and thru 5 micron filter.But I swear my engine it caused blow by,when stopped veg,and run diesel blow by gone.
From: BStromsoe <bstromsoe@yahoo.com>
To: "diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2012 10:03 AM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Vegetable oil. The way I do it.
To: "diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2012 10:03 AM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Vegetable oil. The way I do it.
I stand in the wings and salute you. Someday, buy a camera and treat us to some pictures.
brian from laverne, ca Mary (195K) Martha (280K) 1983 w123 300d's
From: Lawrence Rhodes <primobassoon@sbcglobal.net>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2012 6:28 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Vegetable oil. The way I do it.
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2012 6:28 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Vegetable oil. The way I do it.
I run single tank. No diesel or biod unless I run out of veg oil. When
filtering (using blue jeans which gets me to about 10 micron filtration) I stop
pouring when my settled cubies show the first sign settled gunk and this can
happen anytime after starting to pour from my 5 gallon cubies. If you filter
gunk you get filtered gunk. Don't filter with heat. Gunk sneaks through when
you use heat. Filter at room temp. I settle for at least two weeks. I run
electric and coolant heat exchangers. I found electric lineheaters get electric
heat there faster than heated filters & a vegtherm. Electric line heaters only
work on the injector lines exposed before going into the injector like VW & old
Mercedes. It is also a good idea to increase the injector pressure. Elsbett
has instructions on how to do this. If using lineheaters you can sit and heat
up the lines and that would be better than just starting the car cold. I've
left mine on for 30 minutes and still started the car. I think 5 minutes might
be enough to get up to temp but I'm not sure. I did 100 k just using coolant
heat and a vegtherm before the lift pump. So it takes a long time to mess up
the engine if you will ever mess it up. But you will mess it up if you don't
heat your fuel before it goes into the cylinder. That's for sure and I know one
person that did short 1 mile and less runs for several years and her car got
ring coking. Gotta warm it up every time you drive. No short runs for Single
Tank Conversions. Lawrence Rhodes
filtering (using blue jeans which gets me to about 10 micron filtration) I stop
pouring when my settled cubies show the first sign settled gunk and this can
happen anytime after starting to pour from my 5 gallon cubies. If you filter
gunk you get filtered gunk. Don't filter with heat. Gunk sneaks through when
you use heat. Filter at room temp. I settle for at least two weeks. I run
electric and coolant heat exchangers. I found electric lineheaters get electric
heat there faster than heated filters & a vegtherm. Electric line heaters only
work on the injector lines exposed before going into the injector like VW & old
Mercedes. It is also a good idea to increase the injector pressure. Elsbett
has instructions on how to do this. If using lineheaters you can sit and heat
up the lines and that would be better than just starting the car cold. I've
left mine on for 30 minutes and still started the car. I think 5 minutes might
be enough to get up to temp but I'm not sure. I did 100 k just using coolant
heat and a vegtherm before the lift pump. So it takes a long time to mess up
the engine if you will ever mess it up. But you will mess it up if you don't
heat your fuel before it goes into the cylinder. That's for sure and I know one
person that did short 1 mile and less runs for several years and her car got
ring coking. Gotta warm it up every time you drive. No short runs for Single
Tank Conversions. Lawrence Rhodes
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