To test :
Use a test light (NOT a meter !) on the same screw you used to jump start it , clip the test light's ground to the negative battery cable and then turn the key ~ if the test light lights up , (only one of the two screws will do this , dig) then you know either the sub harness is going bad or , far more likely the solenoid on the starter proper , is doing the normal Bosch electics dance and is kaputi ~ DO NOT buy a " rebuilt " solenoid ! buy a new one , Bosch or Echlin brand _only_ .
If the starter doesn't crank fast like it once did , consider exchanging it for a Bosch branded rebuilt starter as those always come with new solenoids .
Conversely , if you're a Starving Student , a Yankee Farmer , a Dedicated Tinkerer or just plain Poor Junkyard Junkie , you can add a cheap or free cube relay to the red solenoid signal wire and that'll fix it once and forever .
This is called a " Hard Start Relay " and yes , that tiny 1" square cube relay that all junkyards are littered with , does the trick very nicely . you can also use the big clunky Ford starter relay , it's _FUGLY_ but also works well .
Be aware that purists will turn up their noses & sniff when they see this under your hood but the older German mechanics will all smile knowingly as it's been a Dealer fix since the 1950's .
-Nate
BigBopper wrote:
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> The key won't make the starter crank, but turning to start elicits a click from under the dash, echoed when key released to run position.
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> The reverse lights work in reverse and not in other gears, so the switch at the base of the shifter seems to work correctly.
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> So it's apparently in the wiring or a module or relay in the circuit; I'd dive into the dashboard if I had the procedure at hand, but can't find it in the two-DVD manual or the online one in our files.
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> Does anyone have a suggestion of how I should proceed?
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> Shorting the + battery terminal to the small screw on the 3-screw unit on the fender well makes it crank, and if the key's on, it will start...
>
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