[diesel_mercedes] CHEAP Turbo Wagon in TEXAS E-Bay

 

Might be a good project car , lots and lots of fiddling and cleaning necessary here : Mercedes-Benz : 300-Series 300td


 


The current owner is obviously to disgusted with it to do even basic cleaning but for one who's willing this might well be a gem in the rough .

-Nate


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Posted by: vwnate1@yahoo.com
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RE: [diesel_mercedes] Window Switch Service

 

Bill, Tyvm. There is always that option, and the prices seem reasonable. I will try the cleaning method first.


1984 300sd 260k+

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Posted by: mj0a0a@yahoo.com
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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Window Switch Service

 

Nate, Tyvm.  The swearing like an old sailor I can anticipate doing....lol.


Also, for the group, since I (re)moved to Md from Cali, have trouble finding junkers  for parts, something which was easily available in the SF bay area. The bay area junkyards always seemed to have 80s vintage MB diesels around, but here in MD, have found none so far. So if you are in Cali, I guess that is a good time to visit the junkyards for any parts.

1984 300sd 260k+. 

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RE: [diesel_mercedes] Window Switch Service

 

Here are some switches on eBay.  Bill in Oregon

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=mercedes+Window+Switch+1984&_sop=15


From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 12:27 AM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Window Switch Service

 

Actually , you need to ever so gently spread the (easily broken plastic)  ' wings ' over those ' pins ' then the switch will more or less fall apart on you , if you neglected to work over a terry towel , some tiny ball bearings and miniscule springs plus contacts will fall out , bounce once or thrice and never be seen again .

Once you have it apart , use de greaser (house hold products that are safe for plastics work well here)  , with some brushes to clean out the amazing old dirt , grease and misc. crud that's in there .

Now use METAL POLISH to clean and polish the contacts until they shine , a new pencil eraser to clean the copper contact pins in the bottom of the open switch's body , then smear some Dielectric grease in there and learn to swear like a 150 year old Sailor as you try to re assembling it all correctly .

Did I mention the clean towel ? failure to follow this means you now have a nice clean switch missing a couple of non available  parts....

Luckily these switches don't change much internally from 1981 onwards so any old Junk Yard switch should yield the parts you need to get it going  again .

Tedious , delicate work I don't envy you on .

-Nate
       mj0a0a   wrote :

The white plastic part of my regulator was broken - I replaced it...Now my switch itself needs to be cleaned.  Am planning to clean the switch, but having difficulty taking it apart There seems to be a small circular pin on the side. which I need o push in (?), but it is being very tough to push in. Should I soak the switch is something? Cleaning itself entails mineral spirits, I think, and then some lube.

 

1984 300sd, 260k+

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[diesel_mercedes] Fuel Economy Check 1981 340D Slushbox

 

A/C used constantly , I've been commuting in it since April 11th .

Diesel Kleen silver bottle used , no startron this time .

361 miles , the low fuel light has been on since yesterday , I drove it from l.A. to Pasadena and some errands then back to l.A. before tanking up , the new , clear plastic intake fuel screen was slightly cloudy again (crud from the bottom of the tank I assume) so I dumped in a quart of Startron and filled it to the very lip of the filler neck and parked it on a slight side slope to ensure the entire fuel sender & tube is soaking in the Statron over night .

28.4 MPG .

It's running quite well I might add , now has 344,XXX miles in it and is hands down the very best $1,500 car this Old man has ever bought and i've had more than most .

G'night .

Nate


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[diesel_mercedes] Window Switch Service

 


Actually , you need to ever so gently spread the (easily broken plastic)  ' wings ' over those ' pins ' then the switch will more or less fall apart on you , if you neglected to work over a terry towel , some tiny ball bearings and miniscule springs plus contacts will fall out , bounce once or thrice and never be seen again .

Once you have it apart , use de greaser (house hold products that are safe for plastics work well here)  , with some brushes to clean out the amazing old dirt , grease and misc. crud that's in there .

Now use METAL POLISH to clean and polish the contacts until they shine , a new pencil eraser to clean the copper contact pins in the bottom of the open switch's body , then smear some Dielectric grease in there and learn to swear like a 150 year old Sailor as you try to re assembling it all correctly .

Did I mention the clean towel ? failure to follow this means you now have a nice clean switch missing a couple of non available  parts....

Luckily these switches don't change much internally from 1981 onwards so any old Junk Yard switch should yield the parts you need to get it going  again .

Tedious , delicate work I don't envy you on .

-Nate
       mj0a0a   wrote :

The white plastic part of my regulator was broken - I replaced it...Now my switch itself needs to be cleaned.  Am planning to clean the switch, but having difficulty taking it apart There seems to be a small circular pin on the side. which I need o push in (?), but it is being very tough to push in. Should I soak the switch is something? Cleaning itself entails mineral spirits, I think, and then some lube.

1984 300sd, 260k+

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: for Nate

 



Thanx ! .

For once , I am not sure what to say......

I'm always in awe of and thankful for , your ability to find things on the Internet bill .

-Nate
        Bill    wrote :

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Window regulator 1984 300D

 

The white plastic part of my regulator was broken - I replaced it...Now my switch itself needs to be cleaned.  Am planning to clean the switch, but having difficulty taking it apart There seems to be a small circular pin on the side. which I need o push in (?), but it is being very tough to push in. Should I soak the switch is something? Cleaning itself entails mineral spirits, I think, and then some lube.


1984 300sd, 260k+

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RE: [diesel_mercedes] TD rear door cylinder replacement. Roof rack repair.

 

Here is how back hatch strut replacement is done on the W124 wagon.  Bill in Oregon

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124-e-ce-d-td-class/243463-replacing-w124-wagon-hatch-struts.html


From: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com [mailto:diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2015 7:19 AM
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] TD rear door cylinder replacement. Roof rack repair.

 

Two issues.  How do you get to the cylinders that keep the back hatch open on a TD.

Does the roof liner need to be taken down when doing a complete paint job?  One of the supports for the roof rack has rust under it.  Lawrence Rhodes

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[diesel_mercedes] for Nate

 
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[diesel_mercedes] TD rear door cylinder replacement. Roof rack repair.

 

Two issues.  How do you get to the cylinders that keep the back hatch open on a TD.  Does the roof liner need to be taken down when doing a complete paint job?  ONe of the supports for the roof rack has rust under it.  Lawrence Rhodes

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Window regulator 1984 300D

 

mick:

That is the way it is supposed to be. It makes it easier to implement a two-switch system such as is used on the rear windows. So they use it everywhere for consistency. I don't know if the motor is toast or not. It may just be the brushes. but they are difficult to change, (I know from personal experience) so a (possibly junkyard) replacement is probably in your future. The motors on my 81 TD are all still original so these are generally sturdy items. The brushes and bearings are the wear items and the brushes are by far the more likely item to go first. But you will have to try to turn it manually in order to test the bearings. either way the motor will have to come out.
 
"Hardware eventually fails.
Software eventually works"
                - Michael Hartung


From: "drnickv@sbcglobal.net [diesel_mercedes]" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2015 5:12 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Window regulator 1984 300D



Been a while since I had an issue to come here with. now I have two.

1. The driver window will not go up or down. I removes the door panel. Checked for voltage. Both the green and black wire have approx. 12.4 volts with key on.  Hit the up button, voltage drops to 0.  Hit the down button, voltage drops to 0 in the other wire.  Is this the way it is supposed to be. If so, is the motor toast. What do I do next? Seems backwards to me. I thought the wire would have no volts till switch is pushed then would go up to 12 volts.

2. Glove box latch is not working properly. Is there a repair kit for these? Do not like using the bungie cord. Looks kind of trashy.

Any help would be great.

thanks, Nick




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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Body and Trim Parts

 

this one i have here, which i can't use and want to rid myself of, has a big letter "L" on it so i think that means left. also says "W116" definitely a front turn signal/corner light. appears to be fully intact. if you care for that, please email me off list.
thanks,
-dw
devon warner
san francisco, CA USA

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 5/27/15, vwnate1@yahoo.com [diesel_mercedes] <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Body and Trim Parts
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, May 27, 2015, 10:02 AM


 











*MAYBE* 
Eckler's ~ I recently bought a few things from
them and the body side trim is very nice indeed ~ German
made even .

-Nate
       ski84060 wrote :

Hi gang. Any
recommendations for a place to buy replacement trim parts?
Specifically I am looking for a new 3rd (high center mount)
brake like assembly for my 83 300SD...the old plastic is
just crumbling. Also new seat leather. Thanks in
advance









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