Diesel RVs

Tried it at night. The LEDs are brighter than I would like, but was not distracting. It was OK.

Clarification: the meter is called an LED. I'm not sure. They are red, but not little round dots - they are long segments like the old gas discharge tubes but in red. (There are red dots for the periods.)

Personal preference: The display is 3 digits. I would have preferred 3 1/2 or 4 digits.

Bobby

On Wed, Apr 1, 2015 at 11:39 PM, Bobby Yates Emory <liberty1@gmail.com> wrote:

I bought the LED tester. It came two days ago.

I am using it in a non-MB.

PRO:
Seems to be accurate. I will try to validate against a good meter.

When I first turn ignition on, it shows battery voltage. After cranking, it shows alternator voltage.

Lights are bright enough to read in daytime. I will report after night usage.

It has a nice long cord, so you can pick a spot you like.

Comes with a fairly large piece of double stick tape. Not used yet. Currently sits on a small ledge.

Can be switched to another car.

Price was incredible - $6.80 delivered.

CON:
Case is a little bit larger than the display.

Does not show cranking voltage. Not a defect - the cigarette lighter is not powered when cranking.

Summary:
I love it.

Bobby

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Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory

Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory

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Posted by: Bobby Yates Emory <liberty1@gmail.com>

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Just started driving my 240 4-spd.(my main 240) and the starter is kicking out again. Does anyone live in cold climate with this symptom? While cranking when cold(defined mid 30's and down), starter gear kicks out and then sounds like its eating a ring gear. Its a Shucks lifetime, re-built Bosch and I think they must not replace the big spring. When the car is warm it starts on the first pop. Yea, should of would of could of bought a Mercedes, but I had enough of Mercedes dealers with my 190D. Max P.S. starters are a whole lot easier on non turbos to replace.

On Thu, Apr 2, 2015 at 11:10 AM, vwnate1@yahoo.com [diesel_mercedes] <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Sooner than later you're going to be forced to replace the broken 'Y' bracket , might as well take the time now to do the job right , $ave your self Some $ and frustration too......

I use a wobble extension on that hard to reach 13 MM bolt .

Expect to drop it , no worries just go buy another one if you can't find it easily .

BE SURE to use spring typ wave washers under neath every 13 MM ATF bolt ! .

-Nate
mj0a0a wrote :

Had ordered the new air filter housing rubber mounts and put 2 in yesterday. The old ones had broken at the rubber, and the bottom of the mounts took a vice-grip to unscrew out. After that saw that the Y-bracket had broken at the front right side. I do have an old salvage one. And then I saw the bolt which holds the Y-bracket,way inside the bottom Y-part (the part which has always bothered me about this setup). Could not get it out with a straight extension- I think I need an appropriate flex-extension.
So just replaced 2 mounts ( this time with heat shields). and tied the third side ( the front right) down to the EGR valve with steel wire. Looks very firm, and shakes very little. I know this will put more pressure on the unbroken ones.
I think I may be able to just put a washer on the broken side of the Y and just screw the mount on top, to hold the mount to the Y. That way won't have to replace the Y, and mess with the bolt holding it way down there.

1984 300sd,