Diesel RVs

Some turn signal indicator lights use the turn signal bulb not in use to provide the return ground path for the indicator. If that is a LED, your turn signal indicator won't work. I have one of those in another vehicle. Don't know whether it applies to the Mercedes. Because the motor and alternator is running whenever the turn signal is flashing, it doesn't help the battery. I'm a LED fan, but the turn signal LED won't save many dinosaurs.

Larry

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
>
> Tell you what Tom :
>
> You but four # 1157 and four # 1156 LED lamps and try 'em out , if you don't like 'em , I'll buy 'em including the fright charges and use in my old truck , Ural Motos etc. , no loss to you either way .
>
> Tom's question has to do with the transitorized turn signal flashers out Mercedes' all use ~ LED's likely won't draw sufficient current to make it flash , I don't care I can use them in my stuff .
>
> -Nate
> Tom wrote :
>
> > Tom,
> >
> > I have an entirely different question for you.
> >
> > I recently replace the left rear light assembly on my 1981 300SD. I
> > found a good, uncracked one on a 560 SEL in the Monrovia PaP yard. I
> > brought it home, took the lens off the plastic frame, washed it thoroughly,
> > washed the lamp housing, let it all dry completely.
> >
> > After reassembly, and installation of all new bulbs, it fit into my
> > car perfectly, as only a 32 year old Mercedes part can.
> >
> > But while putting in the new bulbs, I started wondering about LEDs.
> > We are getting superbrite LEDs now that have almost the same light output as
> > an incandescent bulb, but at a much lower current draw.
> >
> > I wonder whether we can use LED bulbs in the turn signals. I know
> > that some turn signal activators, particularly "of a certain age" (as we say
> > of beautiful women and machines), required enough current draw from the
> > bulbs to activate.
> >
> > Are the turn signal activators in 123 and 126 series cars able to
> > operate with the low current draw of LEDs? Considering the price of LED bulbs
> > still, I am not excited enough to test them out on my own. But I just know
> > that you folks at the Classic Center will either know the answer, or know
> > who in Stuttgart to get the answer from.
> >
> > Cordially,
> > The other Tom: '81 300SD, 37+,+++ miles
> >
>

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Yah, It'll get so easy and normal, you'll be popping the windshield and back window out every time you want to wash & wax the car. Just to avoid getting wax on the glass.

Tom

In a message dated 4/5/2013 3:02:24 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, vwnate1@yahoo.com writes:

Nah ;

The first time when you're nervous , it seems hard but once you get it , it's like riding s bicycle .

-Nate
Jim wrote :
>
> Wow, that sounds incredibly tedious. I don't think I could do that.
>
> Jim
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, diyernh <diyernh@> wrote:
> >
> > You need to remove the windshield, then clean off any sealant left on
> > the frame. Add a 3/8" window rope seal into the corner of the frame,
> > mash it down to fillet in the corner. Put the new seal on the
> > windshield while it's out of the car. I used duct tape to hold the seal
> > to the window. On the outside of the seal, there is a lip that will be
> > stretched over the inside metal window frame. I put a lubricated 1/4"
> > cotton rope in there, two times around. Lift the window/seal into
> > place. Inside the car, you pull the rope in, which lifts the seal over
> > the frame. Gently push on the seal/window from the outside. No extra
> > hard force! If anything, you are just pushing the windshield down to
> > avoid the rope/seal from moving the window away from where it is pulling.
> >
> > Trim work: 3 small phillips hold the front of the drip rail. Put duct
> > tape in the hole in the fender if you drop a screw. A piece of wood and
> > mallet will tap the trim upwards along the roof. You don't need to
> > remove the entire trim, just push up about a foot or so until the front
> > end can be pulled out of the fender. Pad the loose end and tape it
> > down. You will probably bump it while working on the window. It will
> > scratch your paint.
> >
> > The aluminum trim around the window can be pried out slowly with a large
> > blade or screwdriver. Lubricate it before reinstalling. It can be
> > tapped in with a 2x4 and mallet.
> >
> > On 4/1/2013 7:23 AM, n61cm wrote:
> > >
> > > Do you have to take the window out to do this job? Or do you just cut
> > > out the seal and put in a new one without removing the window?
> > >
> > > Jim
> > >
> > > --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:diesel_mercedes%40yahoogroups.com>, diyernh <diyernh@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > '84 300d. Just finished installing the windshield seal. Wasn't that
> > > > bad of a job. The old seal cut out nicely. The new one went in easily.
> > > >
> > > > The worst thing is the mental scars that my daughter has. Everyone
> > > > recommended KY personal lubricant for the cotton cord. It's water based
> > > > and doesn't get sticky. She was a little grossed out.
> > > >
> > > > The 3/8" sealant caulking definitely needed to be pushed flat into the
> > > > corner. If you don't push it in far enough, the windshield won't fit
> > > nicely.
> > > >
> > > > I had tried sealing the old seal with flowable silicone. That was a
> > > > waste of time, the seal was brittle and cracked. It still leaked.
> > > >
> > > > I hope this eliminates the swimming pool in the back floorboard. I have
> > > > the back window seal ready for the next project.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Carl
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>