Re: [Diesel-RVs] Suburban NT-35K furnace

Bill,
Give this guy a shout, he set me up with a new computer board for mine, cheap too.
randkproducts@brtc.net
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Davis" <sonorabill@hotmail.com>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 6:47 AM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Suburban NT-35K furnace

: The propane furnace in our RV has started making a terrible noise.
: Probably the bearings in the motor dying or something. The furnace is
: a Suburban NT-35K, 35,000BTU. I figured with the age of the furnace,
: it was just as good an idea to totally replace the unit with a new
: one; than mess with changing the motor and maybe curing the problem or
: not.
:
: So I ordered a new Suburban NT-40S (40,000BTU) from PPL motorhomes in
: Houston TX. It arrived UPS yesterday. After unpacking it, my wife
: immediately says it looks bigger than the place where it goes. So I
: slide it over next to the location and the new one is about 3 inches
: taller and would bump into the reefer door, instead of fitting
: underneath. So a call to PPL and I find ALL the new Suburban NT
: furnaces are this size now, regardless of BTU rating.
:
: About the only one they make that might fit is a SF-35 a low profile
: unit about 2" shorter than what I have now. But about 5 inches wider
: also to make up for it. Looking into the spot the furnace is
: installed; shows a water pipe sits in some of those 5 inches. So shy
: of re-plumbing the water line with those swagged on fittings the RV
: makers use, the other furnace won't fit either.
:
: I looked at Atwood furnaces to see if they have one that would fit,
: but their's look about the same. So can't just switch brands.
:
: So at the moment have sent the new one back to TX and maybe will buy a
: motor & fan for the old one, about $200 ( 1/3 the cost of all new
: unit). Bummer is PPL may well charge a restocking fee of $130. So
: don't know if I'd order the motor from them, unless they waive the charge.
:
: Any ideas as to maybe a place that still sells the older obsolete size
: furnace? Or maybe some other work around solution?
:
: Bill Davis
: 37' Safari Continental '93
:
:
:
: --------------------------------------------
: Off-topic posts will be removed.
: Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.
:
: To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
: Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
:
: Yahoo! Groups Links
:
:
:
:

--------------------------------------------
Off-topic posts will be removed.
Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Diesel-RVs/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
mailto:Diesel-RVs-digest@yahoogroups.com
mailto:Diesel-RVs-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [diesel_mercedes] O.T. : Moto Physics

> Prolly was an old fart like me ~ when first I read of this in MCN
> magazine , I said ' Bullshyte ! ' ~ then I tried it and Lo ! it works
> like a charm , I'd been doing it all along and just didn't understand
> the Physics involved ..
>
T'was an older gentleman, true...
The physics are simple, once you get your head wrapped 'round 'em. The
average (read all) motorcycle has it's centre of gravity somewhere above
ground, usually some couple of feet. That's why most fall down without some
form of support. Now, when riding, that 'support' is the input from the
rider and the gyroscopic force from the rotating wheels. Rider input is in
two forms - leaning and moving the handlebars. Leaning is not too effective
on a bike weighing 500 pounds or more, but it is how many riders steer,
they're just unaware of it.
Moving the handlebars is much more effective, but you need to be aware of
what you are doing to effect the appropriate response.
The technique called counter-steering is the way bikes are turned 'round a
bend, and it works thusly: When you push on the right bar, the wheel twists
to the left (solid connection twixt 'bar and wheel, we hope...). However,
the bike leans to the right, and thus turns right. Why?? Turning the wheel
to the left moves the contact of the tyres to the left of the bike, in
effect moving the lower portion of the bike's weight to the left. Since the
centre of gravity is high, this makes the bike lean right. Think of you on a
skateboard (think of it, don't DO it!!). Now, whilst looking forward,
suppose someone kicks the board forward as well. You land on your bum, no??
That's because your centre of gravity is also high (loss of hair does not
lower the centre appreciably, I know by personal experience).
Those are the basic physics of steering a motorcycle. Works the same on a
bicycle, but harder to tell, as leaning a 17 pound bicycle is slightly more
effective than the same lean effort on a Gold Wing...even with empty bags...

Jeff

Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/

<*> Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

<*> To change settings online go to:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/join

(Yahoo! ID required)

<*> To change settings via email:
mailto:diesel_mercedes-digest@yahoogroups.com
mailto:diesel_mercedes-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
diesel_mercedes-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/