Diesel RVs

I've always heard that the proper method was to install the aluminum trim in the window surround BEFORE pulling the window into the metal frame. This is supposed to avoid the dents that inevitably occur when hammering in with a 2x4 and mallet.

Tom

In a message dated 4/1/2013 6:06:29 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, diyernh@comcast.net writes:

The aluminum trim around the window can be pried out slowly with a large blade or screwdriver. Lubricate it before reinstalling. It can be tapped in with a 2x4 and mallet.

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let us know if it leaks.I've heard they are never the same as factory.I want to replace mine in my w140

Tennessee Nate

From: diyernh <diyernh@comcast.net>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, April 1, 2013 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Just replaced the windshield seal.

You need to remove the windshield, then clean off any sealant left on the frame. Add a 3/8" window rope seal into the corner of the frame, mash it down to fillet in the corner. Put the new seal on the windshield while it's out of the car. I used duct tape to hold the seal to the window. On the outside of the seal, there is a lip that will be stretched over the inside metal window frame. I put a lubricated 1/4" cotton rope in there, two times around. Lift the window/seal into place. Inside the car, you pull the rope in, which lifts the seal over the frame. Gently push on the seal/window from the outside. No extra hard force! If anything, you are just pushing the windshield down to avoid the rope/seal from moving the window away from where it is pulling.

Trim work: 3 small phillips hold the front of the drip rail. Put duct tape in the hole in the fender if you drop a screw. A piece of wood and mallet will tap the trim upwards along the roof. You don't need to remove the entire trim, just push up about a foot or so until the front end can be pulled out of the fender. Pad the loose end and tape it down. You will probably bump it while working on the window. It will scratch your paint.

The aluminum trim around the window can be pried out slowly with a large blade or screwdriver. Lubricate it before reinstalling. It can be tapped in with a 2x4 and mallet.

On 4/1/2013 7:23 AM, n61cm wrote:

Do you have to take the window out to do this job? Or do you just cut out the seal and put in a new one without removing the window?

Jim

--- In mailto:diesel_mercedes%40yahoogroups.com, diyernh mailto:diyernh@... wrote:
>
>
> '84 300d. Just finished installing the windshield seal. Wasn't that
> bad of a job. The old seal cut out nicely. The new one went in easily.
>
> The worst thing is the mental scars that my daughter has. Everyone
> recommended KY personal lubricant for the cotton cord. It's water based
> and doesn't get sticky. She was a little grossed out.
>
> The 3/8" sealant caulking definitely needed to be pushed flat into the
> corner. If you don't push it in far enough, the windshield won't fit nicely.
>
> I had tried sealing the old seal with flowable silicone. That was a
> waste of time, the seal was brittle and cracked. It still leaked.
>
> I hope this eliminates the swimming pool in the back floorboard. I have
> the back window seal ready for the next project.
>
>
> Carl
>